Short Block Is Done
 

I just picked up the built short block from the machine shop. It is filled with Pauter rods, and Wiseco pistons. It took a while to get the pistons, they were .020" over and no one had them in stock. I would like to give a big thanks to Mark at Street Unit for getting me a good deal on all the parts to make this possible.

I ordered a counter bore end mill to fix the injector ports on the head. I had to make the pilot bushing since the injector port is not a standard size. I dropped the head off the same time I picked up the short block. The shop said they will have the injector ports done by next week or so, then it is on to saving more money to complete the head. I am shooting for this time next year to have everything done and in the car.

The next reason why I made this thread is to tell you guys about the experience with the shop I went through. I chose this shop a year ago when I had the port work done on the intake manifold.

Paul has been in business for over 25 years, an extensive racing career, a full fabrication and machine shop, flow bench, and dyno facility all under one roof, along with being sponsored by Ford Racing. He has a 2011 Mustang that he and his son are racing this season. This Mustang has had a complete hand made chassis, suspension, and roll cage.

The guys that work with him are just as crazy about cars as any one of us, and when people are that dedicated, the work they put out is second to none. I am some what of a fabricator myself, so I am very picky about who does the work, but after seeing the caliber of fabrication these guys can do, it makes me look like a 3rd grader with popcicle sticks and elmers glue LOL!! He let me take a few pics of the new Mustang, but I did not want to intrude too much, so I kept the pics a little generic. I can honestly let you guys know if you live in the Cincinnati, Dayton, or Columbus area (in Ohio) this is the shop you will want to do business with. Check out the website: Paul's Automotive Home Page

Injector port pics and details or ban

All in due time!! I posted the pics of the damaged ports in DJ's crows foot thread, I will post up the tool and the finished ports once I get the head back home.

Freakin Sweet Buddy
I can't wait to swap that thing out!

Sweet man, congrats! Its good to have a guy like you in the community, and now with the hard parts I hope you can make some real progress for this platform =)

dang man, i have 2500 bucks saved and i want to rebuild my engine many guys in the forums recomand it, how much did u pay to rebuild if i may know..

I found a short block that had a bent rod, took a chance and bought it for $500, then the internals will run just shy of $2000 (gasket kit, main bearings, ARP studs, pauter rods, wiseco pistons), the machining, building, and cleaning/checking of the block was about $960. So, about $3200-3500 to get the short block ready to install the head and accessories. Looking back, this would have been my first mod....LOL!!

did they quote you on how much the head rebuild will be? i am in the similar boat gotta rebuild the head (i have two heads both damaged)

Yeah, they gave me a figure on what the head was going to cost, but, it is based on what the direction is going to be. Are you just fixing what needs to be fixed, and going to re-use the valves that are good, or do you want to use an entire new valve set up (which no one has anything off the shelf)? I want to go with a better quality stainless valve, which means they will have to be made for my application, about $700 just for the valves. The labor for just the build part of the head was $500 - $600.

dayem...my machinist recommended swapping out the valvetrains for the good parts to be put into the head that i am using for the new motor to help cut down on cost...but i dunno what to do...i know it's gonna cost more then the damn shortblock to get cleaned and bored and honed...let alone finding a honing deck plate for boring out the cylinder...i dunno lots of possibilities just another headache to think about...FUCKIN CAR!

The stock valves are pretty good, and for most applications will work great. But I am going in a different direction with my build. So, if the rest of the valves are viable in your head, then just fix the ones that are bad with stock replacements.

The deck plate is another issue, My machinist made his own, it only cost about $65 in materials. But, if your machinist is not comfortable in making his own, try and find/buy one. He did not charge me for the plate, but he kept it at his shop...

Once Darton gets done, they can just resleave it. It might be more cost effective for some people with screwed up bores.

Scott, did your machinist or you notice any clearance issues with the oil squirters? Tim's (spnkr21) machinist said there were clearance issues with either the piston skirts or rod (Not sure what it was exactly, i thought it could be a piston issue, but Tim's notes from back when stated rod, which is also plausible). And i believe it explains many of the broken squirters we've seen around here.

Not sure if your oil pan is on yet, but it might be worth it to crank the motor over a few times and inspect for contact.


Everything else looks AMAZING man! Great job!

Yes.....The machinist had to put some attitude on the squirter, he noticed them as soon as he put them in. Not much though, probably about 1/4" bend to get them out of the way of the piston skirts.

So it is the piston skirts then... Thanks for the confirmation and glad your ready to roll!

That mustang is rediculous!!! This is the type of shop that everyone should use when building a motor! They do it right the first time and you will be able to drive your car with confidence. I used a shop near me(shameless plug: R+L Engine. Dover, NH) with the same type of people in it. Wicked smart guys that race their own builds on the side. You can also tell by the price that they knew what they were doing.

Thanks for the useful thread scott. Now people know what to look for when selecting a shop. Granted your shop is like the God of all shops but that's beside the point haha. Nice job man and GL

Hahaha!!! thanks Tim!! I gave them a dry run a year ago when I had them do the pnp job on the I/M. I was very impressed with the entire operation, from the business standpoint, (the way they handle themselves during monetary transactions), to the actual work that was done, they always welcomed me to stop by and talk to them about the direction of the build. What I wanted out of the build, and what was the best path to take. So, again I can put my word into saying this is the shop you want if you live in southern Ohio, northern Kentucky.

thanks silverdemon. if i ever build a motor, i might drive from michigan to use this shop!

Come on down, I would be more than happy to introduce you to the shop!!

This is exactly what happened with my Wiseco pistons, they were touching the piston skirts.

Very Nice Scott! I'm in to lend a hand if you want. I can fetch beer / gatorade / tools and hand them to you like nobody's business.

Hahaha!!! Thanks...I might have to take you up the offer!!

Here are the pics and details of the injector ports. To keep things simple I used an 11/16" counter bore end mill with a removable pilot bushing. The ports in the head measured .675" so .687" end mill was used, this will give me a little extra meat on the bushing. The smaller part of the port measured .317", I did not want to alter that dimension, so I made the pilot bushing. The shoulder that fits into the end mill it 1/8" and I made the pilot bushing just about .3165" The results came out perfect, I had to go .040" deep to clean up the bore, this will serve not only that purpose, but will also give me enough material to put a proper o-ring groove in the base of the bushing. I took pics of all the ports, but they all looked the same, so I will just post one pic. For comparison pics http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...7/index10.html post #373

Nice work, you had some ugly ass injector ports.

Short Block Is Done
 

Can't wait to see the seal you make :).

Glad to see my block found a good home! Did you happen to save me one of the bent rods?

oh yeah...I completely forgot...LOL!! sorry. PM me your address and I will let you know how much it will be ship the bent rod out.

It has been a long while since I started this build thread, but I have made some progress today. I have started to pull the motor. I am about 2 hours away from pulling the stock motor out. Then I will set both motors on stands and swap the accessories. I will post some pics up in the next few days.... more to come!! :)

The motor is ready to come out... The last items left to remove are just the motor mounts... suck ass cell phone pic (I am almost ashamed to post this pic hahaha)

Man I am going to start saving now. I am terrified of my block grenading on me, so I guess I will just prevent it.

I did not get to work on the car Thursday, but today was a good day. Motor is out, and back at my house for tear down, and install of the accessories on the built motor...

By the way, dropping the motor out of the bottom is the only way to do it :)

niiiice!

So it begins...

*ponders buying a lift*




Great progress Scott!

Damn Scott you own a mechanic shop in your backyard? Fawk Im jealous.

I think I saw Harry's boots in that one pic....

Thanks... and you should not ponder it...just buy it!!!

The shop where I pulled the motor is just down the road, he is a great guy, not too much on the making engines build more power, but he is one hell of a mechanic, plus he has alllllll the specialty tools. Great person to work with!!

Yes, I was wondering if you could find Waldo

How did the weekend go? Progress?

I don't think he left the garage

It went OK.... well, not that great.. I spent about 70 hours at work last week, I had to work on Saturday, and then I had a meeting on Sunday. So, most of my time was spent running around. I think I had a total of 10 hours invested in removing motor and the accessories from the motor. I have the block to the point of removing the head and oil pump.. I also encountered a small bit of fail... I will elaborate after I fix it, but lets just say I knew better, but I went ahead and did it any way, and now I am paying for the mistake by needing to fix the screw up....

sounds familiar, dustin!

did they use a deck plate when they bored it ??

Hahahahahahahahaahha, read my mind.

You'll get it fixed Scott. And don't worry, your not alone lol. I'm still confident my fail outweighs yours.

I am going to let the cat out of the bag on my little excursion of fail.

I have the stock motor sitting on the stand, the flywheel is already unbolted, and I am ready to remove the crank pulley...(keep in mind that I have read the service manual) Now, since the flywheel is unbolted from the engine I have no way of holding the crank while loosening the crank pulley bolt. This is where it went horribly wrong, I looked at the threaded timing hole that orients the crank pulley on the 20th tooth with the crank position sensor. I thought I would try to thread an M6x1 bolt in and try to give it a little tug on the ratchet. Well, the cast timing cover did not hold up....it broke the boss off of the cover, now I have no way to set the timing pin in the crank pulley. The only thing left of the boss was a dimple where the tap stopped when the hole was threaded after it was cast.

I finished removing the cover, and picked everything up. The next day I took it to work and set the cover up on the mill, picked up center on the dimple and plunged a 3/8" cutter into the cover. I took the depth to about .130" from breaking through. I then center drilled and tapped a piece of 3/8" round stock to 10 - 24 . I made the new boss about 3/8" long. I then cut a 10 - 24 clearance hole in the timing cover (the center of the old boss), counter sunk a flat head into the back of the cover. I used loc-tite 680 (high strength retaining compound) to hold the new boss and the flat head 10 -24 into the cover. Next I threaded the flat head screw through the cover and into the new boss. Now I have a new hole to center the crank pulley by using a 1/4" shoulder bolt.


After all of that, I am now starting to assemble the accessories on the built block....

^^^ Gheeeeetttttoooooo... I didnt know you were mexican!

SI....

hahaha

If this had happened to any other person it would've taken weeks to fix or the part would need replacing.

I did that EXACT same thing when i had my motor on a stand..... you're not alone.

luckily with mine they were still able to time the engine without repairing/replacing the timing cover. it was broken just enough to tick me off but still able to snug a bolt on for the timing

yes...my machinest made his own deck plate

Ugh... haha you should have phoned a friend man. I would have sent you a timing cover to save you some trouble.


When i had to pull the crank bolt on the last motor, i took a piece of flat stock, and drilled 2 holes in it spaced such that i could bolt it to the flywheel hole and bell housing. It worked perfect. I can take a pic for you if you wanna know more what i mean.


Nice save Scott.

I had ya on speed dial if this little fix would not have worked. hahaha It really only took me 45mins to fix, and I did it at work, so I got paid for fixing it... :D

Lolol. Can't really argue with that shit. Almost an incentive to break stuff.

If only you had the skills of the real Mexican......
This whole project would have be so much easier for you
:)

Jiggen' up the down pipe location!!!
 

I bolted everything to my stock motor so I can locate the position on the exhaust with out the engine being the car. Once all the go fast goodies start to show up I can fab the new down pipe and dump tube for the waste gate.

Looks great scott. Are you sticking with the 2871 or is something else in the works?

Thanks...

I had to go with something bigger than the 2871. I am going with steedspeed's manifold with a 35R T3 set up.

Thats going to be nasty. Are you having Automotion tune it?

I have been thinking about letting them do the tune.

Did you go there to get yours dyno'ed?

Ya, stock was 212HP 222TQ, stage 1 was 250HP 262TQ on a mustang.

I have a Big MAF Intake, 3" inlet, ATP 3071, DP, CBE, EWG, Up Pipe, Header all sitting in my apartment ready to go on. Just waiting on some injectors and a fuel pump and some P&P work on the intake manifold, TB and TGV deletes.

Good numbers on that dyno....my car hated that dyno, but I believe he put the best tune on the car


Your going to need something bigger than the 3071 to keep up man...hahahaha

Edit: is Charles still at Automotion ?

A few more pics...Assembly of the top end, timed, and all accessories are installed. Valve cover and intake manifold powder coated.....The last pic still has a few items missing. :)

Fuuuuuuck, this is getting me excited man.

Good job, and i hope to not be toooo far behind you.

looks awesome

This is going to be sick.

What!
Scott you need to clean up my engine bay.
Let's see pics of the new turbo!!!!

I wish I could show pics of the turbo...but I have not received it yet (come on Mark!!!) The exhaust manifold shipped today...hope to have it in a few days.

Haha. I didn't know you got one. What size? The intake mani looks so amazing. I can't get over that thing.

Hahaha..thanks man!! T3 GT35r .63 A/R and the steedspeed exhaust mani, and tial 38mm exg

Awesome
Zex
I mean sex
Zex

never fear...I am looking into something along those lines.....hehehehehe

Coitus?

That word does not exist for me, I have been married for too long :D ......but a Zex N2O system might become a reality in the near future....

Good work man! I hope to have my car up and running soon...but nothing fancy yet...I haz no monies.

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A fully forged bottom end is fancy man :sombrero:




Scott... thank god your thinking about nitrous.

Anxious for number!! omg omg omg omg......

Into which hole do I insert my penis?

Yeah I was thinking more along the lines of big top mount Turbo being fancy.




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NICE!

where's that spark plug cover? :)

amazing man. I cannot wait to see this thing in action.

Just a little update........

It has been 22 days since the money was sent from my paypal account for the steedspeed exhaust manifold....you think that might be a little excessive?

Then the bullshit with dealing with ATP on the turbo....Them fucksticks need a new kindergarden teacher to help them manage simple orders....The order went through Street Unit, Mark has stepped up and has bent over backwards to make things right with me, even though ATP is fucking him on the backside...

I thought having a hobby was meant to be fun...not a fight everytime an order is placed.

Just to give an idea on how orders should be handled: I ordered a kenne bell BAS on friday. I live in Ohio, and kenne bell's facility is in California. No special overnight shipping, the part arrived yesterday.

When you're raping a c6 from a 50 roll all will be forgotten.

Waiting for parts blows.

Not so much when orders are processed correctly and in a timely manner. ATP has the biggest bunch of brainless fuckheads working for them I have seen in a long time.

One of the sales reps takes a leave of absence......ATP does not let anyone know that she will no longer be taking care of dealer orders (in this case SU was the dealer). So, purchase orders sent to her e-mail for 2 weeks without being processed. It wasn't until people started asking what was going on that the truth finally came out . Once Mark figured out what was going on he resent the orders to a different salseman.....but then get this, the ass monkey at ATP sent half my order to my house, and the other half went to streetunit....WTF!! So, yeah, I'm a little aggrivated here....

Which steed mani did you order? Cause the twin scroll is just now being prototyped... But Leen typically moves pretty damn fast from a development perspective.

single scroll, t3, tilted flange...

Yeah me and Mark has some problems with AWR but he got it straightened out really quickly. Now days I would almost rather go through Mark than straight through the mfg because he stays on top of things better than I do.

^^^^ wait...... are you saying the middle man actually serves a purpose???


Hahaha, seriously though, what mark does is worth it.

I ordered my exhaust manifold from Leen on March 9th. I have yet to receive it...

UPDATE: Leen just got back to me a few minutes ago. The manifold should be shipping this afternoon. Maybe yours will be going out as well?

Just because he said it was shipped, does not mean it will be there anytime soon.... Mine was supposed to have been shipped on the 17th....I have a tracking number, but a tracking number to what? It has not moved since the 20th.....

What did the freight company say about it? If a tracking number exists.... some sort of shipping transaction has occurred. So he sent something somewhere... I would bark up their tree first.

I have made Leen aware of the length of time, and this should be his responsibility to check into the delay...not the customer....

Oh... I'm not trying to stick up for anyone here. Your point isn't lost on me, I'm just saying ...If it were me, I would just want to know, and I don't care to wait around for others if I can do it myself.

WTF! gerry and i ordered our BAS's on the 22nd and they JUST shipped today. where did you get yours from?

Kenne Bell Boost-A-Spark

Called them directly...

What turbo did you get?? if you get tired of waiting i have a turbo place you can get a turbo from.

Thanks Charles.....It is supposed to be on its way...Mark gave me the tracking number to his shop..then he said he would overnight it to my place, so, hoping this weekend it will be here..

EDIT: T3 flanged GT35r

you can print labels with tracking without shipping anything.

nice what ar turbine did you go with?

.63 A/R w/3" v band ....With the way these ass jockeys operate I am sure that something is going to be fucked up when I receive it....it will either be dropped and smashed...or it will be the wrong turbo all together...hahahaha