SEX.... not to thread jack, why not ask steed speed to take part in manufacturing some of those intake manifolds? ALso, is steed still working on a IM? Regardless, this build is definetly something ive been watching for a while. You and DJ =:You_Rock_Emoticon:

The down pipe is (for the most part) done...at least the hard part is done...this was a S.O.B. to get right...

Looks great man, are you dumping the WG into the DP?

Also are you welding it yourself?

thanks man!! I do not have the proper techniques to weld the pipe correctly, I will take it to the same welder that did the intake manifold. Right now it is just tacked together. I will recirc the dump pipe..

Holy mother of bend radius lol, thats a tight fit.

I didn't have much of a choice, the 35r and the steed manifold move the v-band outlet 4.5" away from the alternator.... almost impossible to squeeze 3" diameter pipe into the area available. hmmmm ....maybe I will relocate the alternator to A/C position and just get rid of the A/C altogether....LOL

Lol, yup, that alternator makes the top mounts tight as well.

How accurate is the jig? A flex section may have freed up some slack on the dp, but you may have enough "swing" with the cat back exhaust hangers.

The jig is dead on the stock location of the down pipe, same angle, same height, same length. I'm getting ready to bolt it up to the exhaust (with out the motor in the car) to see if it will clear everything.

Sounds like win.


V-bands can be a bear to make sit flush unless everything is on perfect. I have zero doubt in your fab skillz whatsoever. GJ on the dp man!

I wonder if you could cut the vband off of the turbo and weld in a short section of pipe. Ive seen that on compressor housings but never on a turbine housing, but I bet someone has done it before.

Alright I looked that up and it can be done but its a real bitch lol. Scratch that idea.

Hmmm this worries me quite a bit since he moved the flange even closer to the alternator for the TS mani...Damn, really don't want to have to deal with relocating an alternator.

Just rip the casing/shielding off the alt. Mines been gone forever and is fine. You get some more room too.

I was joking about relocating the alt. Hahaha :)

I thought about removing the heat shield, but I am working towards keeping it in tact.

I did try it out on the car, the straight section of the DP will have to have a slight bend to clear the brake and fuel lines that run behind the heat shield on the firewall.

Silver i did the same, ripped off all the shielding off the alternator and it gives u a few inches of room. i have a very nice bend. ill try to post some pics so you can see what it looks like..

this is all i have. there is one cut in the middle of the bend but it still is pretty smooth

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1290011242

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1290034438

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1290034993

super groan right here, i expected better from you scotty...........



P.s. what kinda fail picts are those? wheres my 10.5MP pro ISO filtered/edited perfect shots that you normally post? haha

I am having the same problem with sixual pandas car.. I have to modify the atp vband downpipe to fit..

Cool your groans super, I haven't completely made up my mind to go recirc...hahahaha

Thanks Brian for the pics, yours turned out great!! I did not have the CP-E pipe (is it the CP-E pipe?) to work from. Is there much, if any difference from the 3076 to 3582... I have not seen the 2 compared side by side.

The motor...the car .... is now one again.... muahhahahaa (evil scientist laugh)


Flawless victory on the DP fitment..Sorry super no high res pics this time either, just cell phone.

How much clearance does that 35R compressor have?

Clearance to what part of the engine bay? There is only 4.5" to the alternator, to the engine block it has a bunch of room on the hot side, the compressor side has about 1.5" to the flange where the trans mount.

Yea lets just call me retarded lol.

How much clearance does the compressor have to the firewall and to the block is what was in my mind... it just didn't make it to the keyboard.

Just asking because I will be running a similar size turbo and manifold

hahah

There is plenty of room, exact measurements, I do not know, if I can remember I can get some measurements later this weekend.

No problem. Just wanted to make sure there was a little leeway, since there is.... I'm pumped!

AN Fittings used in my set up
 

A few people have asked what the fittings were that I used to make the connections on the turbo and the engine block. I am going to try my best to make sure to list everything that I used, and where it was used on the install.

Connections on the turbo:
parts from ATP

Oil return flange: ATP-FLA-019 qty 2 (one for the turbo, one for the block) Do not forget to order the gaskets for the flanges

Coolant line Banjo fittings: ATP-FTG-053 qty 2 (supply and return)

Oil Feed Line: ATP-OIL-021 qty 1 (-4 adapter with built in restrictor)

Connections to the block:
parts from Jegs


Coolant supply and Return: 555 110001 -6 hose end straight qty 2 (attaches to the banjo fittings on the turbo)

Coolant supply and Return: 555 110021 -6 hose end 90* qty 2 (attaches to the modified EGR valve and the modified heater hard line)

Adapter for the modded EGR: 555 110102 qty 1 (1/8" npt to -6 AN) I cut the hose barb off of the EGR and drilled and tapped the housing to accept the 1/8" adapter.

I do not have a part number for the steel fitting that I used on the coolant hard line, I just picked through the hydraulic fittings at work until I found one. This fitting is a standard 3/8" JIC fitting that any hydraulic shop can help you with.

Oil feed adapter for the block: 361 9919BFG qty 1 (M12x1.5 to -4 AN) This is the only one that I can find in existence. The fitting is an metric inverted flare. Make sure you get a new 12mm copper crush washer.

Oil supply hose end: 555 110020 qty 2 -4 90* hose end (for the oil line from the block to the turbo)

Oil drain line: 555 110013 qty 2 -10 45* hose end (drain line from the turbo to the block)

Stainless Steel Hose
Jegs sells this in 3' sections

Oil Drain: 555 100930 -10 hose

Oil Feed: 555 100900 -4 hose

Coolant Supply/Return: 555 32052 -6 hose

Tools, a must if you are going to go this route:

Stainless Steel hose cutter: 555 80576

Wrench Set (optional, but nice not to mar the fittings): 555 80558

EDIT:

This list will cost about $350 to put together.

Is the DP finish-welded? I was thinking you could keep the angle, but radius the outside bend to balloon it out a little and give it room to breath? That way you keep the alternator cool, but free up some flow.

No, the DP is not finished welded. It is funny that you mention that, a buddy said the exact same thing today. I am going to see what I can do with a slip roller and a piece of stainless sheet metal tomorrow.

im guessing the stainless steel hose is -10 AN?

Its -6 I believe, -10an is pretty big for a turbo feed. The turbo drain can be -10an, I think with -12 you run into fitment issues.

There is 3 different sizes used for the install...

Yep, sure did. :17:

Damn that looks amazing Scott!!!

I've been working on the car the last 2 nights, about 4 hours each night. I had a hang up on the hard coolant pipe that runs over the transmission. With the position of the 35r with this manifold, the outlet for the heater core from the coolant hard pipe runs right in front of the inlet of the turbo. The only way around this was to cut the hard pipe in two pieces, shorten the pieces up by a few inches, then braze on -12 jic fittings on to the shorten pieces, then run a -12 line over the transmission, drill and tap a hole for a clamp to hold the hard pipe on the transmission. There was enough length on the heater hose to re-position it to get it to line up with the new position of the hard pipe. Everything turned out great.

Drive line, engine wiring, coolant/oil lines, and down pipe (except welding in the O2 bungs) are done.....If all goes well, by this weekend she should be breathing again...

Awesome work Scott, I need to see this thing and we need to set up a time to go to the track this summer.

Dayum scott. You move quick man!

stop posting and start taking notes!

haha jk jk

grout trout FTW!!!

I finished grout last night, but still waiting on bearings....... sigh.

Holy hell!!! More fab work...the damn EWG will not fit under the TXS FMIC piping (first pic). I think I am going to try to work with an elbow...or find a shorter EWG. The next two pics show (the best angle I could get) of the modded coolant line. The rest are just money shots. I do not think she will breath this weekend...

Looks amazing. I'll steal that EWG from you if you go with a different one. lol

I do not think anyone makes a shorter gate.. I am looking right now. But I did find this, it should take some time off of the fabricating.

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/graphics...LS-130_450.jpg