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 Old 06-05-2010, 10:54 AM   #1
 
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Default Short Block Is Done

I just picked up the built short block from the machine shop. It is filled with Pauter rods, and Wiseco pistons. It took a while to get the pistons, they were .020" over and no one had them in stock. I would like to give a big thanks to Mark at Street Unit for getting me a good deal on all the parts to make this possible.

I ordered a counter bore end mill to fix the injector ports on the head. I had to make the pilot bushing since the injector port is not a standard size. I dropped the head off the same time I picked up the short block. The shop said they will have the injector ports done by next week or so, then it is on to saving more money to complete the head. I am shooting for this time next year to have everything done and in the car.

The next reason why I made this thread is to tell you guys about the experience with the shop I went through. I chose this shop a year ago when I had the port work done on the intake manifold.

Paul has been in business for over 25 years, an extensive racing career, a full fabrication and machine shop, flow bench, and dyno facility all under one roof, along with being sponsored by Ford Racing. He has a 2011 Mustang that he and his son are racing this season. This Mustang has had a complete hand made chassis, suspension, and roll cage.

The guys that work with him are just as crazy about cars as any one of us, and when people are that dedicated, the work they put out is second to none. I am some what of a fabricator myself, so I am very picky about who does the work, but after seeing the caliber of fabrication these guys can do, it makes me look like a 3rd grader with popcicle sticks and elmers glue LOL!! He let me take a few pics of the new Mustang, but I did not want to intrude too much, so I kept the pics a little generic. I can honestly let you guys know if you live in the Cincinnati, Dayton, or Columbus area (in Ohio) this is the shop you will want to do business with. Check out the website: Paul's Automotive Home Page
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Last edited by SilverDemon; 06-05-2010 at 02:31 PM. Reason: spelling
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 Old 06-05-2010, 01:46 PM   #2
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Injector port pics and details or ban
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 Old 06-05-2010, 02:27 PM   #3
 
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All in due time!! I posted the pics of the damaged ports in DJ's crows foot thread, I will post up the tool and the finished ports once I get the head back home.
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 Old 06-05-2010, 03:16 PM   #4
 
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 Old 06-05-2010, 09:40 PM   #5
 
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Sweet man, congrats! Its good to have a guy like you in the community, and now with the hard parts I hope you can make some real progress for this platform =)
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 Old 06-13-2010, 07:27 PM   #6
 
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dang man, i have 2500 bucks saved and i want to rebuild my engine many guys in the forums recomand it, how much did u pay to rebuild if i may know..
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 Old 06-13-2010, 07:37 PM   #7
 
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I found a short block that had a bent rod, took a chance and bought it for $500, then the internals will run just shy of $2000 (gasket kit, main bearings, ARP studs, pauter rods, wiseco pistons), the machining, building, and cleaning/checking of the block was about $960. So, about $3200-3500 to get the short block ready to install the head and accessories. Looking back, this would have been my first mod....LOL!!
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A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the
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 Old 06-14-2010, 01:32 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by SilverDemon View Post
I found a short block that had a bent rod, took a chance and bought it for $500, then the internals will run just shy of $2000 (gasket kit, main bearings, ARP studs, pauter rods, wiseco pistons), the machining, building, and cleaning/checking of the block was about $960. So, about $3200-3500 to get the short block ready to install the head and accessories. Looking back, this would have been my first mod....LOL!!
did they quote you on how much the head rebuild will be? i am in the similar boat gotta rebuild the head (i have two heads both damaged)
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 Old 06-14-2010, 03:07 AM   #9
 
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Yeah, they gave me a figure on what the head was going to cost, but, it is based on what the direction is going to be. Are you just fixing what needs to be fixed, and going to re-use the valves that are good, or do you want to use an entire new valve set up (which no one has anything off the shelf)? I want to go with a better quality stainless valve, which means they will have to be made for my application, about $700 just for the valves. The labor for just the build part of the head was $500 - $600.
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 Old 06-14-2010, 03:37 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by SilverDemon View Post
Yeah, they gave me a figure on what the head was going to cost, but, it is based on what the direction is going to be. Are you just fixing what needs to be fixed, and going to re-use the valves that are good, or do you want to use an entire new valve set up (which no one has anything off the shelf)? I want to go with a better quality stainless valve, which means they will have to be made for my application, about $700 just for the valves. The labor for just the build part of the head was $500 - $600.
dayem...my machinist recommended swapping out the valvetrains for the good parts to be put into the head that i am using for the new motor to help cut down on cost...but i dunno what to do...i know it's gonna cost more then the damn shortblock to get cleaned and bored and honed...let alone finding a honing deck plate for boring out the cylinder...i dunno lots of possibilities just another headache to think about...FUCKIN CAR!
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 Old 06-14-2010, 05:46 AM   #11
 
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The stock valves are pretty good, and for most applications will work great. But I am going in a different direction with my build. So, if the rest of the valves are viable in your head, then just fix the ones that are bad with stock replacements.

The deck plate is another issue, My machinist made his own, it only cost about $65 in materials. But, if your machinist is not comfortable in making his own, try and find/buy one. He did not charge me for the plate, but he kept it at his shop...
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- Mark Twain


Cops carry guns to protect themselves, not to protect you.


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A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the
right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.


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 Old 06-14-2010, 12:35 PM   #12
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Once Darton gets done, they can just resleave it. It might be more cost effective for some people with screwed up bores.
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P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG


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 Old 06-14-2010, 12:50 PM   #13
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Scott, did your machinist or you notice any clearance issues with the oil squirters? Tim's (spnkr21) machinist said there were clearance issues with either the piston skirts or rod (Not sure what it was exactly, i thought it could be a piston issue, but Tim's notes from back when stated rod, which is also plausible). And i believe it explains many of the broken squirters we've seen around here.

Not sure if your oil pan is on yet, but it might be worth it to crank the motor over a few times and inspect for contact.


Everything else looks AMAZING man! Great job!
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 Old 06-14-2010, 02:05 PM   #14
 
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Yes.....The machinist had to put some attitude on the squirter, he noticed them as soon as he put them in. Not much though, probably about 1/4" bend to get them out of the way of the piston skirts.
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 Old 06-14-2010, 02:57 PM   #15
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So it is the piston skirts then... Thanks for the confirmation and glad your ready to roll!
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 Old 06-14-2010, 03:10 PM   #16
 
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That mustang is rediculous!!! This is the type of shop that everyone should use when building a motor! They do it right the first time and you will be able to drive your car with confidence. I used a shop near me(shameless plug: R+L Engine. Dover, NH) with the same type of people in it. Wicked smart guys that race their own builds on the side. You can also tell by the price that they knew what they were doing.

Thanks for the useful thread scott. Now people know what to look for when selecting a shop. Granted your shop is like the God of all shops but that's beside the point haha. Nice job man and GL

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 Old 06-14-2010, 03:18 PM   #17
 
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Hahaha!!! thanks Tim!! I gave them a dry run a year ago when I had them do the pnp job on the I/M. I was very impressed with the entire operation, from the business standpoint, (the way they handle themselves during monetary transactions), to the actual work that was done, they always welcomed me to stop by and talk to them about the direction of the build. What I wanted out of the build, and what was the best path to take. So, again I can put my word into saying this is the shop you want if you live in southern Ohio, northern Kentucky.
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 Old 06-16-2010, 07:33 PM   #18
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thanks silverdemon. if i ever build a motor, i might drive from michigan to use this shop!
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 Old 06-16-2010, 07:44 PM   #19
 
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Come on down, I would be more than happy to introduce you to the shop!!
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 Old 06-16-2010, 07:49 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by SilverDemon View Post
Yes.....The machinist had to put some attitude on the squirter, he noticed them as soon as he put them in. Not much though, probably about 1/4" bend to get them out of the way of the piston skirts.
This is exactly what happened with my Wiseco pistons, they were touching the piston skirts.
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 Old 06-16-2010, 07:54 PM   #21
 
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Very Nice Scott! I'm in to lend a hand if you want. I can fetch beer / gatorade / tools and hand them to you like nobody's business.
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 Old 06-16-2010, 08:17 PM   #22
 
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Hahaha!!! Thanks...I might have to take you up the offer!!
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 Old 06-19-2010, 05:25 PM   #23
 
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Here are the pics and details of the injector ports. To keep things simple I used an 11/16" counter bore end mill with a removable pilot bushing. The ports in the head measured .675" so .687" end mill was used, this will give me a little extra meat on the bushing. The smaller part of the port measured .317", I did not want to alter that dimension, so I made the pilot bushing. The shoulder that fits into the end mill it 1/8" and I made the pilot bushing just about .3165" The results came out perfect, I had to go .040" deep to clean up the bore, this will serve not only that purpose, but will also give me enough material to put a proper o-ring groove in the base of the bushing. I took pics of all the ports, but they all looked the same, so I will just post one pic. For comparison pics Lets take a closer look at the crows feet and injectors post #373
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 Old 06-20-2010, 01:38 AM   #24
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Nice work, you had some ugly ass injector ports.
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 Old 06-20-2010, 06:51 AM   #25
 
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Can't wait to see the seal you make .
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 Old 06-20-2010, 08:56 AM   #26
 
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Glad to see my block found a good home! Did you happen to save me one of the bent rods?
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 Old 06-20-2010, 11:28 AM   #27
 
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oh yeah...I completely forgot...LOL!! sorry. PM me your address and I will let you know how much it will be ship the bent rod out.
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 Old 03-01-2011, 06:21 PM   #28
 
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It has been a long while since I started this build thread, but I have made some progress today. I have started to pull the motor. I am about 2 hours away from pulling the stock motor out. Then I will set both motors on stands and swap the accessories. I will post some pics up in the next few days.... more to come!!
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 Old 03-02-2011, 06:20 PM   #29
 
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The motor is ready to come out... The last items left to remove are just the motor mounts... suck ass cell phone pic (I am almost ashamed to post this pic hahaha)
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 Old 03-02-2011, 09:28 PM   #30
 
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Man I am going to start saving now. I am terrified of my block grenading on me, so I guess I will just prevent it.
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 Old 03-04-2011, 06:57 PM   #31
 
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I did not get to work on the car Thursday, but today was a good day. Motor is out, and back at my house for tear down, and install of the accessories on the built motor...

By the way, dropping the motor out of the bottom is the only way to do it
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File Type: jpg motorinstall4.jpg (92.1 KB, 247 views)
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 Old 03-04-2011, 07:13 PM   #32

 
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niiiice!
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 Old 03-05-2011, 04:05 AM   #33
 
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So it begins...
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 Old 03-05-2011, 09:27 AM   #34
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*ponders buying a lift*




Great progress Scott!
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 Old 03-05-2011, 09:39 AM   #35
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Damn Scott you own a mechanic shop in your backyard? Fawk Im jealous.
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 Old 03-05-2011, 09:41 AM   #36
 
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I think I saw Harry's boots in that one pic....
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 Old 03-05-2011, 05:09 PM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
*ponders buying a lift*




Great progress Scott!
Thanks... and you should not ponder it...just buy it!!!

Originally Posted by NJSPEED3 View Post
Damn Scott you own a mechanic shop in your backyard? Fawk Im jealous.
The shop where I pulled the motor is just down the road, he is a great guy, not too much on the making engines build more power, but he is one hell of a mechanic, plus he has alllllll the specialty tools. Great person to work with!!

Originally Posted by cpolly69 View Post
I think I saw Harry's boots in that one pic....
Yes, I was wondering if you could find Waldo
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A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely idiot proof is to underestimate the ingenuity of a complete idiot.
- Douglas Adams


Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt.
- Mark Twain


Cops carry guns to protect themselves, not to protect you.


READ THIS----
2nd Amendment
A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the
right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.


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 Old 03-07-2011, 11:06 AM   #38
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How did the weekend go? Progress?
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 Old 03-07-2011, 12:31 PM   #39
 
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I don't think he left the garage
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 Old 03-07-2011, 07:41 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
How did the weekend go? Progress?

Originally Posted by spnkr21 View Post
I don't think he left the garage

It went OK.... well, not that great.. I spent about 70 hours at work last week, I had to work on Saturday, and then I had a meeting on Sunday. So, most of my time was spent running around. I think I had a total of 10 hours invested in removing motor and the accessories from the motor. I have the block to the point of removing the head and oil pump.. I also encountered a small bit of fail... I will elaborate after I fix it, but lets just say I knew better, but I went ahead and did it any way, and now I am paying for the mistake by needing to fix the screw up....
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A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely idiot proof is to underestimate the ingenuity of a complete idiot.
- Douglas Adams


Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt.
- Mark Twain


Cops carry guns to protect themselves, not to protect you.


READ THIS----
2nd Amendment
A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the
right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.


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