glad to hear ACT is replacing it free of charge! do you know what caused the fingers to bend? hope you have better luck this time around with the new parts. sucks you had to take your tranny out and take it all apart. i'm still having battery drain issues with my car! :(

I have no idea what caused this but im sure its not because of anything I did. Im hoping I never have to take my tranny off again tho because its such a pita.

you get the new stuff in?

I got the new parts on Friday and started installing it on Sat. and just finished it today. Everything seems good now but I only drove it about 30 miles. The clutch seems alot harder to push now then it did before,Im wondering if its in my head or they changed something with the plate. Im really just hoping it dont happen again since it happened to another act street disk clutch from another member, I dont know if this is a on going problem.

Ill post later on more but for now Im going to watch the football game and drink a beer and maybe some 420 action.

Thanks to all for the helpful information in this thread. My car is at the dealership now; about to recieve its 3rd slave. I made sure they were using the revised part #b37f41920b. $141.01 for the part....but they are saying about $500 total w/ labor. Sounds like I'm getting ripped...waiting to see what discount they can give me. They are also supposed to tell me if the last dealer replaced the pipe and grommet or whatever when they did my slave in May '09. I know this thread is old, but Shark Driver or anyone else could you tell me how long it took you to swap out the slave?

lol they tried to quote me 500 dollars too. literally it takes 10 minutes to swap. 5 minutes to bleed. I'm glad i took the chance and did it myself

definately do it yourself, if your not confident in doing it see if one of the guys in your sig will help. I know several have done this. I would help but no longer up there.

Well I was able to negotiate with the dealership, and got it done there for 1.5 hrs labor. They were also replacing my leaky water pump (warranty), so I said f it. Now the clutch pedal feels a lot SOFTER. Smooth, but less feeling?! Feels like the engagement spot is closer to the floor too, if that makes sense. Could this be a clutch cable adjustment problem? What happened? I remember the clutch pedal feeling much stiffer, now it feels like a Civic Si clutch pedal for anyone that has driven one of them. Did they not bleed it or did they leave fluid all over the place?!?

You should just download the service manual in the VIP section and you could have saved yourself alot of cash. You can change out the slave in under .5 hrs if its your first time but you would need a friend to help you bleed the system. Its all very easy to do.. If I was you I would bleed the slave again just to give you peace of mind that there is no air in there.
Also we dont have clutch cables on this car or I should say most all cars now.

Mines broke as well....the boot was leaking DOT 3 fluid bad. Paid about $230 OEM (I needed it ASAP and my local dealer had it) and paid $75 for having a Trans shop install it...

Haha at the clutch cable thing. I went back to the dealer and cried to them about it today. They said they hand bled then used the machine. I do believe it could be a little air. It is already feeling better I think. I may not be used to the way the clutch starts to engage a inch off the floor...it just feels a little to soft all the way through and not as firm and reassuring as it was before the slave blew. This may be a good thing though, especially if the bubble gets worked out? Thanks too for the idea about the service manual.

I think the first time my slave went it was leaking because I could still drive the car, and this time I guess it blew out completely.

does this mean a good way to check if you have air in the lines is to pump your brake pedal, and if it gets extremely stiff you know you have air in the lines?

if so, is this when the car is on or off or does it matter?

THE SERVICE MANUAL IS HUGE! How do I find the how to on installing the slave cylinder or the lines or bleeding the lines, my computer can barely hold that stupid thing open hahaha let alone scroll around in it

it will only work if car is on. Trust me there probably air in the lines. when you buy the slave new the best chance to bleed it firm is before it pops into place. if you mis that chance you got to work at it.

so is the place to bleed it on the slave cylinder? Should I go for replacing the slave and the line at once? According to what you said above I would take them both off then before connecting the new slave cylinder I should bleed the newly re-attatched line correct? ...and "the line" - is there only one? The line going to the slave cylinder? Is it obvious?

sorry for so many questions at once

you shouldn't need to change the line just the slave.

I had the same problem, went to the stealership to get oil serviced and when i got my car back the clutch just went down to the floor and never came back up. had to get my car towed down to denver to get fixed. slave cylinder went out and so did the pipe connected to the slave cylinder. had to fight for a week with the speed dealer in denver to get it fixed for free.

am I having the smae problem as these people??? I mean, I pull my clutch back up (with my toe) and it is workable again... I mean it'll get stuck down every once in awhile but as long as Im careful it wont... whats up with these people and clutch pedals stuck to the floor and needing to get towed... could you not put your toe under it and pull it back up?

Mine did that for about 10 mins before the clutch stopped working all together and i couldnt get it to come back up at all. it was totally stuck to the floor. my slave cylinder was completely shot at that point. you may only be leaking a lil and thats why you can pull it back up and it works again. but you shouldnt have to do it. take it to a stealership and see aobut getting it fixed. and make the service guy ride with you so he can see the problem first hand. that may be an easy way to avoid the $100 diagnostic charge.

It seems like leak = broken... Ill look into it... and bleed the hell out of the lines before ever considering replacing (hoping this will fix PWEEEEZE!)

So I replaced my slave cylinder and it turns out it has a perfectly round tiny hole at the end of the rubber bushing leaking.. So I put the new one on and started to bleed it for about 20 minutes before my hoe brother wimped out

I was getting almost entirely air for the whole time and only really accumulated about an eighth of an inch at the bottom of a clear water bottle (not even barely enough to have the lopsided tube's hole completely submerged to show bubbles) --- what is the bleeding process... I read it somewhere --- I guessed to pump the clutch in then release the pressure at the bleeder valve then tighten it and have my brother pull the clutch back out once it is tightened.

Why does he have to pull the clutch out every time? Am I doing it right? Or should I open the valve THEN have him push in the clutch then close it then have him pull the clutch back out

am I forgetting anything important?

If your car is raised and level, over fill the resovoir, the max fills the chamber for the brakes but not the clutch fluid chamber. I was doing this yesterday and I was just getting air, until I added more fluids. Don't worry about the over fill, just bleed the bitch until its back on max. By then there shouldnt be any air in the clutch line.

Edit:
the tiny hole is supposed to be there, its for air flow when the slave boot cover extends and contracts, part of the suction the boot creates when its compressed.

however, if fluid is leaking out of that hole, then you have a leak in the system.

The new one doesn't have that hole. I dont know why I didnt think of this sooner but my great uncle owns a used VW dealer and basically buys wrecked cars and completely rebuilds them and sells them and has done this his whole life so I called and asked him.

Im at the point where there is no hydraulic to the clutch at all (just spring) and he says that this will probably require a pressure bleed, meaning I hook up 3-4lbs of pressure to my reservoir cap and then open the other end of the system and let it bleed. Our hydraulic conection to the slae is also the shitty little thing where it just slides in and clips so he says I may need to just bleed the line disconnected from the slave until there is only fluid coming ouit of the line to ensure that the slave gets fluid. Ill get at this some more today, Im gonna call around and see if anyplace will be able to let me use their pressure bleeder of even if any of these exist... :P

Vacuum breeder. Over fill the reservoir so fluid gets in the clutch chamber, if you don't you will just pull air or little fluid. After 4 pumps of the pedal you shoild get pressure.

I got some minivac thing from Napa and got fluid in the lines, it hooked up the the bleeder valve and created suction at that end pulling fluid through.. now I have someone coming over and hopefully I can bleed it normally (with the whole - press clutch open then close bleeder then release clutch)

I replaced my slave and Im having a problem... I figured out how to get it bleeding but when I apply pressure to the clutch the connection between the slave and the line leaks

this can be one of two problems:

1. whatever bushings/o-rings Im supposed to have in the connection isn't right
2. the quick disconnect on the line is broken and leaking somehow

So my connection is like this, inside the slave there is 1 rubber bushing thing shoved the whole way down in the bottom of the hole and then there is another (slightly different) bushing that goes on the end of the line going into the slave.. has anyone done this and had a similar situation?

someone posted a link to a replacement steel braided line for 15 bucks which I think Im going to go ahead and purchase so it'll be on its way

fixed it, damn connection.