I like the stock plugs the best, I am using the NGK stock plugs right now stock heat range and these runs are using the stock NGK with NOOOO meth at 24 psi .. and i had no knocking at all.

I have problems with Denso plugs fouling or falling apart and i really have 0 issues whenever i run stock plugs

I left the gaps at .30 as they came as well, but im running kenne belle boost a spark

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...6/#post1997252

and +1

I had a Denso Cermaic Crack on me, luckily it did not fall apart but when pulled from motor is was fawked

I'm struggling to see a need to go a step colder if I don't see any knocks.

I will be at stage II 93 octane on a COBB AP OTS map within the month (running a stage 1 now), so maybe re investigate the knocks situation? Or should I just go ahead and throw a step colder in before I see any signs that I actually need them?

I just have doubts that it is actually needed with just a tip, intake, and test pipe. Opinions?

I ran stock plugs with full bolt-ons, minus an intercooler. I put in ngk step colder plugs a couple weeks ago because it was time for a change anyway, and I have lots of flow mods and a tune in the process.

I didn't notice a difference, my stock plugs were beast.

Yeh that's kind of what I'm thinking. I think i'll just watch it and make sure I get no knocks or misfires and we are in golden territory.

Thanks for the advice!

Good stuff ! Still not sure if I should upgrade my plugs with all the issues ppl are having.

You gapped the NGK's incorrectly, if you did not like the way they ran.

If you do it properly there is no issue in gapping them from .045" to .028" or even .026". You may have scraped the iridium or bent the ground strap out of proper alignment.

Done properly, the strap will still be very close to perpendicular to the center electrode, regardless of what seems like a pretty extreme reduction.

Our cars are hard on plugs, expecially if you run higher than stock boost and romp the car pretty regularly. I've decided to routinely change them out every 20,000 miles. I'm at 88,000 miles. OEM's were NGK's, I'm on my 4th set of 6510 NGK's, one step colder.

No problem regapping any of them to .028."

Hello MSF.

Cliff notes: Index your spark plugs and mod the ground electrode. good
for 8-12whp from 3800-6200whp on the stock tune.

I discovered something that I feel like could benefit everyone here. First off, this is a
gain derived from a modified/indexed spark plug setting:

MYFIRST_2013dyno_1 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

on another dyno, I backtracked as what was done was not verifiable on the
butt-dyno. this chart will show three runs: all at .026"
Blue - Factory plug, factory plug gap indexing
Red - Factory plug, all plug gaps facing 6:00 *
Green - My modified plug, indexed to 6:00

* Reasoning behind a 6:00 gap position - facing intake valves/fuel sprayers/explosion force acts on piston in the rotational direction of the engine. i.e. making benefit in
similar manner that proper ignition timing helps it turn faster.

plug testing | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

^ this dyno is registered in SAE whp. the top number at '239' is '245' on STD and
correlates to the '262' number on the top dyno. Only difference is that the MPT
dyno I iced my stock intercooler for 45 min before the runs. at LaMotta's I did
not use ice at all, drove in from the street cooled for 30 min with a fan and
as soon as I could change plugs, 18-20min and reindex, we made another hit.

I do have video of the runs but have to put it together. The modified plug
helped me as I drove the car better from a 14.5 down to a 14.1. I have all
the papers. At some point, I was able to better dial in my 60' and get into
13s in full Orlando heat at full weight. I do have a few other things helping this
car, however its been fun to 'find' a little extra help with some hidden ponies.
I don't know how to post the images in the page so you'll have to go off-site
to my flickr acct to see the dyno images. I'll leave you with a pic of the plug
mod I do.

PLUG | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

The indexing is achieved with 14mm tapered seat washers. They come in a
set. The gain is global, all the time; part throttle... transition to WOT. Its
very smooth. Take it for what it's worth... for me it's been worth a lot.
Car has had closer to equal forces acting on the pistons for some time with
the indexed plugs. I have had them set up this way for a couple months now.
Right around 2000 miles I indexed my stock plugs and then about a thousand
miles later I ordered a couple sets of the LTR6IX-11 NGK plug. Recently I
drove up to the Mazda Meet/Eat in Jax from Orlando on a 1/4 tank. 136mi.
Partial throttle MPG increases. I also had a splash of Torco octane additive.
I get about 24mpg in town. I can get close to 30+ on the highway if I'm driving
sanely.

Let me know how I can better explain the gains I am experiencing in my car.
Its something that's 'there' for the taking. I can also put some kits together
if enough people express interest. LMK. Thank you, Michael

So I'm confused a little. On a different thread on here, edgeautosport claimed that the denso plugs were on constant backorder, yet here people are stating that the ngk plugs are the way to go. Is one set better than the other or do we agree that it's just a matter of preference?? I have a cs sri, tip, dp, cbe, and ap running stage 2 ots map. I just ordered the denso itv22. Also, there seems to still be some agreeing to disagree on putting anti seize on the plugs. I have read so many threads on here regarding spark plugs but I feel like it just makes it more confusing with all the opinions.

Oh and hpfp also. Sorry

Really don't understand this even after reading. I am guessing I will be needing to go a step colder or 2. Also what would I should gap it at. My mods are in my sig. All help will be appreciated.

I wanna run NGK copper should I be jumping down 2 heat ranges? And on the first post it doesn't say which heat range of the NGK coppers 5306 and 4306 and what our stock heat range 7??

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Can't see your sig in Tapatalk, but you don't need to go 2 steps colder unless you are REALLY pushing more boost - like in the 30's I'm guessing, running nitrous or some other setup that makes crazy power. For minimal mods, you don't even need to go 1 step colder. If you're moderately modded and running higher than stock boost pressure, 1 step colder is fine. Gap should be set to 0.026-0.028" - tighter (0.026") for higher boost and custom tunes, looser (0.028") for OTS maps. If you have blowout 0.028", reduce to 0.026". 0.025" is about the tightest I've heard people run.

Point is, you want to run the hottest plug you can, while controlling heat and detonation.

See above post about 2 steps colder.

Also, people run Iridium plugs because of the longevity they offer, and even then, in a lightly modded car the plugs only last around 15k miles or so. Going to copper plugs will require changing them even more often because of the softer material. Rethink that one..

I talked to my friend at work and he pretty much said the same thing. 1 step colder he said wouldn't really be needed. I have the Cobb TIH, Cobb SRI, Cobb FMIC. A downpipe and hpfp internals. He said I would be good with Denso stock heat range. I'll probably be looking at buying some tomorrow or sometime soon. Thanks again for the info.

Just wondering who else has run the Autolites? Amazon has a killer deal right now on them - $5.99/each prime shipping and Autolite has a rebate of $2.50 per plug

From reading in the thread only 1 person posted about running them so not sure about going that route.

I just noticed a local store near me had these for 5.99 each as well. I was thinking that at that price I could change them every 10K miles and not worry too much about their longevity. But I have not seen much feed back from anyone on these plugs :(

Found this thread that has people saying they are not bad just gapped at .50

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...at-bad-118035/

Looks like the autolites are probably fine, as long as you don't expect to long of a life from them. Could order a couple sets while there is the rebate and just change them at 10k to 15k before any problems develop.

you can get the one-step colder NGK's for very cheap from AdvanceAuto if you use their discount codes which you can get online. I got myself 3 sets for less than two sets would cost anywhere else online.

My roommate has been running the autolites for over a year. He has a GTX3071 and meth injection. He beats on the car pretty hard. Never has blow out and hasn't replaced them yet. They seem to work well for him.

I think there are enough satisfied users with the Autolite iridium plugs to say they are gtg. But the surface of their center electrode is iridium enhanced, whereas the NGKs are a pure iridium coating. The NGKs will last longer and are priced similarly, sometimes cheaper. The stock plugs are NGK sourced. The one step colder 6510s are what I run with my mods and I'll continue to use them.

Whatever you run, gap them .026" to .028".

On what planet? The cheapest deal I've ever gotten on NGK's was right at $8 per plug with shipping. Local prices with tax put them over that range. NGK's definitely have never been at $5 a plug or $2.50 after a rebate. I've never run the Autolites, but my roommates last longer than my NGK's do as well. Not to mention he runs stock temp plugs on 30 psi x76 car. I had to buy a set at this price because bang for buck they will dominate the NGK even if I replace them twice a year.

Ordered some Autolite XP's stock ehat range from Amazon. $22 then - $10 for rebate = $12 after. Not bad, I can easily run these for 10-15k miles and swap them out before the end of the year and do the rebate all over again.

Yeah I just ordered 2 sets. At that price it is pretty hard to pass up.

Double tappin' the Moto

Same here. I just ordered a one step colder for now. I may do a stock heat range for the winter as little as I drive the car.

Link please, because I don't see em...

This is what i found.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss/186-8508295-3281458?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=mazdaspeed%20autolite%20xp#/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=autolite+xp5263&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aautolite+xp5263
also on ebay..
Many Car Truck Autolite XP5263 Iridium Spark Plug Set 4 Four | eBay

I ordered the ones from amazon. They have a link to the rebate form. I got the one step colder.

Double tappin' the Moto

1 step

here

here

here

You are right on pricing. The cheapest NGK 6510 I can find now are $7 per plug. I was getting them for about $6 each in the past from O'Reilly with discount code coupons, but can't find that any more. They order them from a warehouse and I pick up at the store. Maybe that was an NGK promotion or rebate. Whatever, it is gone now.

I change twice a year and am due, so I'll shop around. I do want to stay with the 6510s gapped at .028".

Just read through this whole damn thing. Good resource, will be going a step colder soon. Current Denso plugs only have 6000 miles on em and seem to still be running strong... But I'll have to reconsider ngk for the next change if people are seeing so much issue with fouling out of Denso lol @TiGraySpeed6; you have any input? I know you're a Denso guy.

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Denso 1 steps don't foul any worse than others if you are making power. They do break the ceramic surround and it drops down on the ground strap blocking spark though. Seen several this way and I've also caused several myself. 1 step options are only NGK and Autolites.

I'm running NGK LTR7IX-11 and seem to work real well

What did that come gabbed out of the box?

Tapa Tapa Tapa

They never gap them to what we need so ALWAYS gap plugs yourself. Gap them .026 to .028.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

Not sure but I deff had to re gap the

Okay. With the feeler guage? Because I heard using the slider one breaks the tip lol

Tapa Tapa Tapa

I used the slider one and it worked fine...

The 6510 gap is huge. It was something like .060". It is intended to be used in multiple applications, so they can't gap them for everything. Gap it down to .026-028".

Don't use colder plugs, however unless you really need them. Boost at or above 18 psi and 3" catless exhaust are the most common reasons to even think about it. Frankly, I'm not sure I really need them at my power level, and could be giving up a little hp just to have a little more protection from knock. You want to run the hottest plugs you can without inducing knock timing retard.

Just order a set of (4) ebay for $21.96, plus can use the rebate on the set I bought in Jan of this year too! That's $20 of savings. bascially just got a set of plugs for FREE!!!

here's the rebate link

http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?location=http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/00/00/47/96/67/23/4796672390._V362993073_.pdf&token=957BBB0669152D76BE1C614537975585163C1748

I've been running a set of these at 22PSI for over 6 months now without any issues if anyone was worried about them. I had Denso's before them. Basically same quality, no need to spend twice the money, especially with a rebate that is good for an ENTIRE YEAR

I wonder how these are... I'm running ngk next step colder which are pretty good...

Ngk is what I wanna try next. Currently running Denso. Not having any issues but I'm also at stock heat. I am upping boost and all that good stuff so I wanna run one step colder.

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Autolite in my MS6? No thank you. NGK6510 is perfect :)

I smell Nate...

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Got my autolite xp's today. Got to gap them and then install.

Ok, need to know beofre I go and start a plug change - on the Autolite XP's, all the ones I got did not have the usual(what I'm used to) washer.

Not sure if that is something that is missing or something that isn't necessary for the MS3.

Looking at images on Google it seems like that's how they are but need to make sure.

Our cars are a tapered seat design. We don't use the crush washers you are referring to.

Awesome making sure, every other car I've owned has needed the washer so when I looked at the plugs, something seemed off to me based on past experiences.

I know the brand of plug is everyone's preferred choice, but what do you have against them?


At their current list price before REBATE their the best bang for the buck for plugs(stock and 1 step colder heat range).

Like you said, I guess it's mainly opinionated. The big difference between ngk and autolite is that ngk is made of a pure iridium compound, whereas autolite is made with an iridium 'coating'.

At least for my car, I like to try to spare no expense when it comes to this kind of stuff. If ngk is going to have better conductivity, longevity and performance..... Then I'm down to spend the extra $20 for em. That's just me though... According to people here autolite work just fine.

On another unrelated note to this response, I pulled and checked my Denso stock heat range plugs yesterday and they're looking good after 4,000 miles. I realize that's not a shit ton of miles but people got me worried about Denso plugs failing and I wanted to check my compression anyway lol.

Tapa Tapa Tapa

I am curious though, I have heard so much controversy on whether antiseize is necessary or plugs these days. Anybody have any input on this? Some say you do, some say it's essential not to considering the material some plugs are made out of nowadays. Or something like that. Thoughts? I have always been taught to apply it so if there's new info that says you should not... I'd like to learn about it.

Tapa Tapa Tapa

NGK says don't use it on theirs because they have a special metal plating.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf

More info - Looks like Autolite states the same as well
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums..._s#Post2465429

And I still put it on them. Just a little bit on the upper 3/4 of the threads. Always have, always will. On another note, I just gapped and installed the Autolite's. Removed a set of NGK with 5000 miles that looked like they had 100k on them. The Autolite's definitely idle better than the NGK's by far in my motor. Running much better than it had been lately so far. If I have to change them every 5k anyway then the Autolite's win hands down. Going to order more tonight to stock up while the rebate is good.

Got my plugs in today. At first idle was a bit higher than stock but it settled back down. Will see how they hold up.

Something is not right. Refresh my memory on your mods. Were they fouled or were they opened up or any signs of heat or detonation? My guess is that whatever made them look like they had 100k in them will persist and affect your Autolites too.

I am beyond mods. Fully built, all custom crap at this point. Not opened up or fouled. The coloring was a very nice light golden color with a clean ground strap and electrode. The electrode itself was worn though. Slightly angled pattern. Looks exactly like old plugs used to when ran for way too long. Nothing out of the ordinary like the Denso's show. I've closed a few of those and had the ceramic breaking issue that a lot of people see with them as well. NGK's work for me, but their lifespan isn't that great and I've come to realize that they never idle well in my car. Almost as if they promote a miss occasionally. The Autolites idle nice and smooth with no struggling. I also had to gap the NGK's at .24 or below to prevent blow out. I've got the Autolites at about .25 now and they haven't had an issue at 30psi from the HTA35 yet.

Running 6510 runs good at 26gap

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I can't get these damn 6510s to gap down they're like made of adamantium lmao

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Tap them on some wood to gap them down

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

I haven't tried to gap mine yet. Got some TIGS coming so going to combine that install and plug replacement. Anybody have any tips for measuring gap without fuxking up the iridium?

Double tappin' the Moto

Attachment 153474

Wtf. Why is there oil/fuel on my old spark plug threads... Lol...

Tapa Tapa Tapa

You sure it's not never seize?

Double tappin' the Moto

I don't remember ever putting that much on but possibly lol that's why I thought I'd ask you guys. The plug is super hot right now cuz just got done driving... So is it possible the antiseize is just in a more liquidated form right now?

Tapa Tapa Tapa

I use never seize a lot and that shit spreads like mad. One drop is enough to cover a man :)

Double tappin' the Moto

I'm surprised the Denso itv22 is so much smaller than the ngk 6510.......Normal?lol Attachment 153475

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Lol shouldn't they be the same length? Just double confirmed... Denso is itv22 and ngk is 6510

Tapa Tapa Tapa

That seems odd.

Double tappin' the Moto

I ended up gapping my autolite to 030. Debating pulling them out and gapping even smaller but everything is running fine and perfect now. My stock plugs were gapped to less than 025 when I took them out.

Ya.......... Idk..... I put them in cuz they are definitely the right plugs but If anybody has any concerns or answers please state them now before I drive it like this lol

Tapa Tapa Tapa

The autolite plugs that came on the car and the Denso ones I just took off are the same length.... Why on earth is ngk so much longer I'm scared I'm gonna hit a piston lol Attachment 153486

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Ugh Idk. I ended up putting the old denso plugs back in until I can get confirmation that these NGK plugs are correct. Not worth the risk but very frustrating... Idk why ngk is longer haha ugh

Tapa Tapa Tapa

Been running a set of Brisk spark plugs in my setup for the last 200 miles, all seems well with them.

The plugs are indexed toward the injectors and gapped to .026.

You may be one of the few who could go two steps colder. 5,000 miles on a set of plugs and showing wear is startling. I would give it a try if at your build level. I don't even know if NGK or Autolite make that.

I see it is donate time again for me - just turned back brown again.

Dustin and I both ran 2 steps for awhile, but they were too cold. Strictly for racing yes they work, but around town they don't get warmed up enough to not foul out evetually. One steps are still more ideal for my use.

I just pulled Autolite 5340's off my car after 7K miles because with the tune I just applied I was getting predetonation in first and second under moderate load after sitting at a light for a little while. With site unseen on the existing plugs, we went one step cooler with Autolite's again. After pulling the old plugs out, they look okay, but found that the gap was just over .40. I don't know if I set them to that when I put them in but so far I haven't been able to reproduce the predetonation with the one step colder plugs gapped to .28.

Are you getting preignition or detonation?

They are very different. There is no "predetonation".

Shit dudes... you guys obscess over sparkplugs. You're definitely keeping the sparkplug industry alive changing plugs twice a year. I've been running the same Autolites for 50,000+ miles and just noticed a cold idle stumble until the car warms up so I'm assuming I need a fresh set, but other than that, the car runs strong with 150,000 miles on it. I'm running 18psi with a tune. If you're eating plugs prematurely, your problem probably lies elsewhere.

BTW, it seems Bosch may have an Iridium plug that fits. Model #9617 comes up on the Autozone website as fitting the MS3. It says my local store has them in stock. Only downside is the gap is .044.

http://www.autozone.com/ignition-and...7840_199221_0/

EDIT: I wound up picking up a set of the Bosch #9617. Looks like a good plug. They come gapped at .044 so the electrode needs to be bent a bit. $6.99 each at Advanced Auto. Installed them yesterday. Car runs great. No abnormal KR on the AP. Smoother idle. My Autolites came out a little white and crusty, but I've been running a lean cruise tune for a while now. The gap had also opened up to about .034, which explains some of my misfires and rough idle.

So im curious I ordered the autolite's:

Amazon.com: Autolite XP5364 Iridium XP Spark Plug, Pack of 1: Automotive

the 5364 autolite is a plug we use on my Sportster. i doubt it will fit down the plug tube with a socket.
Unless you are having problems, stick to the OE type plug at the proper gap. If your having problems then start to look at trying a different setup.

Keep
It
Simple
Stupid

The XP5364's are OE form.
@azarashi; Not sure why the hex size would be diff. other than you may have received incorrectly stamped plugs from a shady Amazon vendor. (doubtful)

Well im gonna pick up the other socket and see if it fits. Number on the box and on the plug itself is the same so might just be weird case of this model # having more then one hex size for whatever reason.

These are spark plugs its suppose to be simple lol...

EDIT: Autolite's have a slightly wider insulator then the stock plugs so they wouldn't fit in the socket all the way, had to get a different one.

Pep Boys currently has 20% off spark plugs ordered online. I just got NGK's for $25 for a set of 4.

There are like 10 pages of NGK plugs on the Pep Boys site. Do you have the URL to the set you nabbed? I'm guessing they were the 6510s?

Found them: http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/1028278/00847

Looking up "NGK 6510" is what gave me 10 pages of results. Just look up "6510"
Coupon code is SPARKPG20 (valid through the end of 2014).

Just nabbed a set with store pick-up for $27! Thanks again for the heads up, @jeopardy98

Okay so you're saying that even though it shows on the back of the plug box to not gap these set of plugs, we should still do it? I was going to ask this anyways but read this and a few replies after this as well. When I did my first set of plugs, I went with the Denso stock heat range at .028, those ran well for about 12k and changed them out and decided to try the 6510. Those lasted about 8k miles and I liked them (but did not gap them due to the pretty picture on the back saying not to gap) it felt sketchy putting them in ungapped. 1500 miles ago did oil change and plugs due to WOT, it would sputter. Decided to go with the 6510s again because they worked well, again didn't gap them. Did 2nd and 3rd gear pull just a while ago on my way home from work. Sputtered pretty badly all the way. It was 46 degrees outside, not sure if that would maybe be an issue. Going into work to have a gander at them tomorrow most likely. I guess should I take them out and try to gap them down to .026-.028 or would it be to late? If so I think I am just going to go back to the denso stocks. While typing this shit I still feel pretty fucking stupid for asking, but I always like to ask. Thanks

.026-.028 do not pay attention to the box

Yeah I should of in the first place. I think I'm going to still switch back to the denso stock heat range, step colder isn't to necessarily needed for me.

@FreshAsWoodie; If you're just gonna toss those plugs, I'll take them off your hands.

I'll consider your offer, but if they fine then I'm gonna gap them. Thanks though.

I read all the way through this thread and didn't get an answer to my question. Seems like people have too many options and are getting confused. I just want to know what spark plugs I should use on a stock ms3. HELP!

The answer to your question is in the very first post of this thread.

Colder plugs are for higher horsepower cars.

Any of the options that are "stock heat range" are suitable for your application.

Personally, i'd go with the the NGK ILTR6A-8G if I were you ...

The Densos have been known to have the porcelain crack. If you search, you can find out more.

Be careful bumping old threads, unless you have something to contribute. People don't take kindly to it here and don't like spoon-feeding information. If you take the time to search and read, you'll find the answer to most any question you can think of regarding this platform.

If you haven't done so already, read your Welcome PM.

Thanks for the advice. It just gets confusing when you start to talk about gap sizes and people are using different sizes that are not specified above.

Thanks for the advice. It just gets confusing when you start to talk about gap sizes and people are using different sizes that are not specified above.

Sorry, I don't get it..

@frothy already answered it, but yeah, go with OEM plugs.
No need for colder plugs...yet. :)

Double your pleasure, double your fun...

Any one know if NGK one step colder plugs code could be LTR5IX11? Or does it have to be LTR7 IX11?

definitely not LTR5IX. Those are stock if not 1 heat range hotter than stock. It has to be the LTR7IX if you are looking for 1 step colder.

Awesome, the guy at Canadian Tire wasn't too knowledgeable at all. Good thing I didn't buy them.
Thanks
Happy New year

LOL Never trust ANYTHING a Canadian Tire parts guy says.
Those guys are a kin to monkeys on typewriters.

The OP says : NGK ILTR6A-8G is stock heat range. The 6 stands for the heat range in that part number.

so I got my spark plugs today and the gap is between .40 and .45 what should they be gapped at ?

I attatched a pic to be sure I got the right ones

Gap is in the OP, those are the one step colder if that's what you wanted.

Using bad grammar from my cell phone.

yes one step colder. I noticed a few posts up that the NGK's are a bit longer . I haven't pulled my stock ones out yet because I am waiting to install the new plugs when I put in my catted DP and test pipe along with the ETS TMIC

Is the length on my plugs going to be ok? Anyone find out if they are a problem?