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 Old 02-03-2009, 02:54 PM   #41
 
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an intake and a good BOV could not blow a healty motor... Man I can't believe your are having to pay for this. Even if the intake cuase it then mazda should pay for it anyway cuase a sports car like ours should be able to handle an intake without boom.
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 Old 02-03-2009, 02:56 PM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by tazman34685 View Post
Sorry for the Nubi question but why would I want to remove the Balance shaft assembly, Hell I'm to the point where I just want my car back...... I brought a test pipe and even took it to them and just today told not to install it because of the reported issues with smokin turbos. I know my panties may by showing here but damn I've paid for the whole bolt-on just because.
The balance shaft is what some suspect might be causing the engine failures,it puts and extra load on the crank and it also cheats the #3 piston from fresh oil.basically its useless.
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 Old 02-03-2009, 03:16 PM   #43
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I just drove mine for the first time after removing the BS. Definitely worth the extra vibes I would say, I kinda like it.

The balance shaft is only there for comfort. It does nothing to help the motor.
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 Old 02-03-2009, 09:45 PM   #44
 
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Originally Posted by gsrtype1 View Post
an intake and a good BOV could not blow a healty motor... Man I can't believe your are having to pay for this. Even if the intake cuase it then mazda should pay for it anyway cuase a sports car like ours should be able to handle an intake without boom.
An injen intake, bov, cobb AP beta map that I'm sure isn't tuned for an injen CAI, and enough abuse to burn up the clutch in under 3k miles could sure as hell blow the engine. Sorry it blew up but it sounds like you slapped on some mods and beat the shit out of it as soon as you drove it off the lot.
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 Old 02-04-2009, 03:58 PM   #45
 
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Originally Posted by soul.survivor View Post
An injen intake, bov, cobb AP beta map that I'm sure isn't tuned for an injen CAI, and enough abuse to burn up the clutch in under 3k miles could sure as hell blow the engine. Sorry it blew up but it sounds like you slapped on some mods and beat the shit out of it as soon as you drove it off the lot.
Thank for the puff past but I quit some time ago. Just because you're in your zone I'll educate you a little, the InJen CAI is the same design as the Mazdaspeed CAI, The abuse to the Clutch I done have a cue as to how or what caused it (maybe because of the internal part the shop is thinking the stocks clutch won't be able to handle the power lol.
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 Old 02-04-2009, 04:00 PM   #46
 
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Originally Posted by opt_ms3 View Post
I just drove mine for the first time after removing the BS. Definitely worth the extra vibes I would say, I kinda like it.

The balance shaft is only there for comfort. It does nothing to help the motor.
I think this is going to be one of my next mods. I hear you have to put an extra quart of oil which suck but I guess that's something I can live with.
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 Old 02-04-2009, 04:13 PM   #47
 
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Originally Posted by tazman34685 View Post
Thank for the puff past but I quit some time ago. Just because you're in your zone I'll educate you a little, the InJen CAI is the same design as the Mazdaspeed CAI, The abuse to the Clutch I done have a cue as to how or what caused it (maybe because of the internal part the shop is thinking the stocks clutch won't be able to handle the power lol.
When you try to be a smartass and are wrong you just end up looking like an ass..

The AEM CAI is the same design as the MS CAI, which BTW was pulled from dealers and redisigned because of issues...Injen made a pipe that fits and stuck a filter on it; but unfortunatly we're not driving a speed density tuned honda, and that just doesn't work right on a MAF tuned car..

The only CAI's that are disigned properly are made by CP-E and cobb. You choosing to run a BETA AP map, with mods it wasn't designed for along with no datalogging while beating on the car is exactly why yourt in the position that your in....

I managed to run a fully bolted car for almost two years before I decided to build it... I did not blow my motor...Because I listened to people who knew more than I did, and I researched what I was doing before changing parts of a system that mazda spent millions of dollars engineering...
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 Old 02-04-2009, 05:57 PM   #48
 
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Originally Posted by tazman34685 View Post
Thank for the puff past but I quit some time ago. Just because you're in your zone I'll educate you a little, the InJen CAI is the same design as the Mazdaspeed CAI, The abuse to the Clutch I done have a cue as to how or what caused it (maybe because of the internal part the shop is thinking the stocks clutch won't be able to handle the power lol.
The mazdaspeed CAI isn't a design, it's standard size tubing with an air filter stuck on the end, so I suppose you're almost right. I figured out pretty quickly that the injen was a terrible idea. Seems to be a pretty common component in the other blown engine threads. I done have a cue as to why your stocks clutch won't handle the power lol either. That AP beta map with a pos CAI make big power true. Pass it to the left.
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 Old 02-05-2009, 03:59 PM   #49
 
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Sorry to hear this. I haven't read extensively on all the blown engines yet, but just wondering a couple of things for my own research.

1. I am assuming you bought the car brand new
2. How did you Break in the Engine?
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 Old 02-05-2009, 04:39 PM   #50
 
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Originally Posted by albone View Post
I think this is going to be one of my next mods. I hear you have to put an extra quart of oil which suck but I guess that's something I can live with.
Having to pay for the extra liter of oil sucks, but the extra oil is a big benifit to the car. It increases the thermal capacity of the oil, can take more kms (slightly) between changes, and the oil can take more fuel dilution. Aside from the extra 2 pounds? and the 10$ at the checkout, there is no down side.
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 Old 02-05-2009, 05:06 PM   #51
 
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Quote SSinstaller "
I managed to run a fully bolted car for almost two years before I decided to build it... I did not blow my motor...Because I listened to people who knew more than I did, and I researched what I was doing before changing parts of a system that mazda spent millions of dollars engineering...
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Geeeezus Fooooooking Chrizzzt.....all these f....g motors that are blowing need to stop...It feels like i am getting punched in the head or groin whenever i read the post about it....Members IMO need to chill and balance there cars and driving habits..and as SS mentioned buy buying proven BETTER parts than OEM parts for the Speed all should be OK...as long as you stay conservative trying to add more power and TQ...300 hp is plenty for me, and this car will run fine at that level without a build. You want more..BUILD IT....or put your Speed in the ??????zone. These popped motors are freaking folks out and making current owners question.....but for alll the neagative folks out there that take every opportunity to knock Mazda because the car is only 300 hp. and slow (Laloosh) i say BS....this is a fine car, fast as shit for me... and was designed for its stock power level....a little more fine, alot more and you will be posting in this type of thread with your car....and i really hope to never read about your car in the " just popped my motor " thread ...it suuuuuuks.. I wanna read about the positive shit you are doing to your cars...
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 Old 02-05-2009, 05:17 PM   #52
 
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 Old 02-05-2009, 05:34 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by dallasms3gt View Post
Sorry to hear this. I haven't read extensively on all the blown engines yet, but just wondering a couple of things for my own research.

1. I am assuming you bought the car brand new
2. How did you Break in the Engine?
Breaking in the engine??? I Don't think that can have any relation to his type of failure.
You brake in an engine to get the piston rings sitting tight. Whoever tells you rod or main bearings have to me broken in don;t know what the fuck they are saying.
And btw. when breaking in a reciprocating engine progressively higher loads ( not necessarily rpm) are good. Driving like a pussy ain't.
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 Old 02-06-2009, 09:41 AM   #54
 
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
Breaking in the engine??? I Don't think that can have any relation to his type of failure.
You brake in an engine to get the piston rings sitting tight. Whoever tells you rod or main bearings have to me broken in don;t know what the fuck they are saying.
And btw. when breaking in a reciprocating engine progressively higher loads ( not necessarily rpm) are good. Driving like a pussy ain't.
Damn Dude, chill out.. I was asking the question because I was told to drive mine during the Break-In period close to the way i would always drive it...

I never insinuated anything about driving like a Pussy... You got a complex or something??
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 Old 02-06-2009, 12:07 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by soul.survivor View Post
I figured out pretty quickly that the injen was a terrible idea. Seems to be a pretty common component in the other blown engine threads.
A common component to the blown engines? I dunno about that
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 Old 02-06-2009, 12:57 PM   #56
 
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as long as you've got the airflow straightener the mazdaspeed or aem isnt a bad design
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 Old 02-06-2009, 08:18 PM   #57
 
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Some sweet Eye Candy

Pistons


Honed Block:


Balanced Crank (Please have you Crank check before installing.. New OEM Crank was 14grams off)


My car spead wide (Engine Birth)
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 Old 02-06-2009, 08:21 PM   #58
 
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look'n good bro....
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 Old 02-06-2009, 08:48 PM   #59
 
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The crank needs to be standing on end ASAP.. NEVER lay a crank down flat!!
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 Old 02-06-2009, 10:03 PM   #60
 
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Nothing I can do about the Crank cause its at the shop but now I know I'm glad I didn't try this job myself.

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 Old 02-09-2009, 02:35 PM   #61
 
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Very Nice, keep us posted on the progress, especially when you are done..
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 Old 02-15-2009, 08:31 AM   #62
 
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I have MY Speed Back in the driveway. The fun of braking in the newly built motor.
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 Old 02-15-2009, 08:39 AM   #63
 
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Originally Posted by SSinstaller View Post
The crank needs to be standing on end ASAP.. NEVER lay a crank down flat!!
Why is it bad to lay the crank down flat?
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 Old 02-15-2009, 12:26 PM   #64
 
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Originally Posted by MS6_Auburn_Fan View Post
Why is it bad to lay the crank down flat?
It's the only way to insure that won't warp. When your dealing with tolerances as small as .001" it doesn't take much deflection to cause huge problems...
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 Old 02-15-2009, 12:27 PM   #65
 
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The reason laying the crank flat is wrong is that you run a good chance on throwing the balance of the crank off. By resting it on its end the rotating mass is not as likely to be thrown off. The shop laid mine flat; I can only guess that they knew that they were going to send it out to be balanced..
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 Old 02-15-2009, 12:32 PM   #66
 
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Ok that makes since and is what I thought was the case. Thanks.
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 Old 02-16-2009, 08:38 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by dallasms3gt View Post
Damn Dude, chill out.. I was asking the question because I was told to drive mine during the Break-In period close to the way i would always drive it...

I never insinuated anything about driving like a Pussy... You got a complex or something??
Did not mean to offend you buddy.
And yes to the complex. Got many.
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 Old 02-16-2009, 10:58 PM   #68
 
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How much did the hole thing cost tazman!? really curious.
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 Old 02-16-2009, 11:34 PM   #69
 
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read this whole thread ... sucks about the warrenty... i know if mine ever goes BOOM ill tow it home first and remove the bov & intake. Good luck on the build

off topic..... will this test pipe/race pipe void my warrenty...
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cause im not gonna feel like removing that
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 Old 02-17-2009, 02:53 PM   #70

 
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Originally Posted by Grim View Post
The balance shaft is what some suspect might be causing the engine failures,it puts and extra load on the crank and it also cheats the #3 piston from fresh oil.basically its useless.
Sorry, it doesnt cheat the #3 piston from oil, all 4 pistons have oil squirters directed right inside the piston skirt.
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 Old 02-18-2009, 06:19 AM   #71
 
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OK the Word is in on the cause of my blown motor. Can we all say Fuel Pressure..... That's right kids the stock fuel pump sucks the big one when it is taxed above the stock specs...BS I know what you guy are thinking but I would seem that a CIA, and the Cobb map put to must demand on the stock fuel pump created a lean condition in the motor and detonation occurred flatting the rod bearing on cylinder #2, causing a spend bearing.. Sometime what else happens is the piston get so hot causing the pin to seize or the piston to get stuck and snaps the connecting rod.
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 Old 02-18-2009, 07:19 AM   #72
 
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I thought the main problems with the fuel pumps where in the earlier vehicles? I thought they had the main issues resolved by the 2008 model year.

This was a fairly new vehicle correct?

Ed
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 Old 02-18-2009, 07:47 AM   #73
 
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Originally Posted by eddelgado View Post
This was a fairly new vehicle correct?

Ed
The car is an 09, purchased 11/08.
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 Old 02-18-2009, 07:52 AM   #74
 
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Originally Posted by eddelgado View Post
I thought the main problems with the fuel pumps where in the earlier vehicles? I thought they had the main issues resolved by the 2008 model year.

This was a fairly new vehicle correct?

Ed
It's still a problem, especially when you turn up the boost. Mazda has noted that the stock fuel system has issues keeping up with the high demand placed upon it. Upgrading your fuel pump really needs to be a priority if you're stepping out of stock parameters, especially with a tuning system..
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 Old 02-18-2009, 07:54 AM   #75
 
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What's a good fuel pump upgrade? And can I do it myself with simple garage tools? And would it be recommended even with the stock tune with just an intake/CBE/BPV/and future TMIC?
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 Old 02-18-2009, 08:36 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by DaleNixon View Post
What's a good fuel pump upgrade? And can I do it myself with simple garage tools? And would it be recommended even with the stock tune with just an intake/CBE/BPV/and future TMIC?
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 Old 02-18-2009, 01:13 PM   #77
 
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Originally Posted by tazman34685 View Post
OK the Word is in on the cause of my blown motor. Can we all say Fuel Pressure..... That's right kids the stock fuel pump sucks the big one when it is taxed above the stock specs...BS I know what you guy are thinking but I would seem that a CIA, and the Cobb map put to must demand on the stock fuel pump created a lean condition in the motor and detonation occurred flatting the rod bearing on cylinder #2, causing a spend bearing.. Sometime what else happens is the piston get so hot causing the pin to seize or the piston to get stuck and snaps the connecting rod.
exactly, the stock fuel pump needs to be upgraded asap, i know of someone else not on here with a speed 6 that was getting 600 psi in his logs and thought it was normal as long as the motor wasnt running lean, soon enough he blew
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 Old 02-18-2009, 01:31 PM   #78
 
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My stock fuel pump seems awfully healthy. It has no problem sustaining 1600PSI+ 1700PSI+ and 1800PSI+. I haven't logged it at WOT yet.
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 Old 02-18-2009, 08:19 PM   #79
 
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Hmmm....I'm having issues with some of the stuff in this post.

1. Without getting into the SRI vs. CAI arguement, there's nothing wrong with the MSCAI if you have the air straightener. Yes, the MAF location isn't the most optimal but most intakes are pretty much the same. Although, I know the loyalists will tell me their favorite company's intake is by FAR the best.

2. I'm curious to which AP Beta map you were running? What type of BPV or BOV? Colder plugs? I have yet to run across someone who ran an intake, upgraded BPV, and an AP Stage 1 map who went beyond the limits of the stock FP. I know you can't go too much further but the FP shouldn't of crapped out with that. Then again, you never logged anything so we'll never know.

3. Nobody on here knows exactly how you drove the car or what was actually tinkered with. But, it still seems like something isn't adding up or that there's more to it.

It looks like your build is being done right. Congrats on the nice setup. Be sure to get that s$%t tuned, log and log often. Mods don't break cars, lack of tuning does.

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 Old 02-18-2009, 09:16 PM   #80
 
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Originally Posted by GongShow View Post
Hmmm....I'm having issues with some of the stuff in this post.

1. Without getting into the SRI vs. CAI arguement, there's nothing wrong with the MSCAI if you have the air straightener. Yes, the MAF location isn't the most optimal but most intakes are pretty much the same. Although, I know the loyalists will tell me their favorite company's intake is by FAR the best.

2. I'm curious to which AP Beta map you were running? What type of BPV or BOV? Colder plugs? I have yet to run across someone who ran an intake, upgraded BPV, and an AP Stage 1 map who went beyond the limits of the stock FP. I know you can't go too much further but the FP shouldn't of crapped out with that. Then again, you never logged anything so we'll never know.

3. Nobody on here knows exactly how you drove the car or what was actually tinkered with. But, it still seems like something isn't adding up or that there's more to it.

It looks like your build is being done right. Congrats on the nice setup. Be sure to get that s$%t tuned, log and log often. Mods don't break cars, lack of tuning does.
its very easy to over stress the stock fuel pump, i have seen studdering with just an intake and dp

and yes there's nothing wrong with the mazdaspeed intake as long as you have the a/f straightener
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