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 Old 06-13-2009, 10:38 AM   #1
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Default Throttle Body By-Pass

Had about 30 mintues to work on the car today. Did a TB By-Pass.
You can use vacuum caps or just use one of the hoses you take off to cap the TB in/out ports. I used the vacuum caps supplied by PTP IM gasket. Took the TMIC off to get to it better and clearer pictures.
The hose coming from the metal pipe near the head is routed to the metal pipe below the head/on the block.

Re-routed to block pipe. There will be some radiator fluid that will spill out, just do it fast lol.

The other hose you removed can be reuse to cap off the TB on both in/out ports on the TB.

Caps I used to cap the TB in/out ports.


For people who live in colder climates need to put it back on during winter or just make a plumbing valve to open and close to the TB, sort of like a "Y" By-Pass with a diverter valve and you won't have to take it off and on all the time.
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 Old 06-13-2009, 10:43 AM   #2
 
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do you notice anything? or just did it for the hell of it?
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 Old 06-13-2009, 10:46 AM   #3
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Just for the hell of it lol, nothing else to do to the car until some more parts come in lol.
I will do/check BAT logs later to see if it changed any.
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 Old 06-13-2009, 10:57 AM   #4
 
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cool, yeah same here I am thinking about doing it too!
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 Old 06-13-2009, 11:02 AM   #5
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dont 4get the chicken wire
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 Old 06-13-2009, 11:26 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by aaronc7 View Post
cool, yeah same here I am thinking about doing it too!
Go for it lol!


Originally Posted by lenny127 View Post
dont 4get the chicken wire
PTP didn't send me any yet lol. Might just go down to Lowes or Homedepot and get some mesh to put on lol, Nator style!
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 Old 06-13-2009, 06:23 PM   #7
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Nator style, LOL.
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 Old 06-13-2009, 07:59 PM   #8
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i still really don't get this. you're taking coolant out of throttle body?
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 Old 06-13-2009, 08:23 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by phaillyb View Post
i still really don't get this. you're taking coolant out of throttle body?
As I understand it... many cars have coolant flowing through the throttle body to keep it warm/hot enough to not let 'gunk' build up around the throttle opening. The gunk is being pulled in via the PCV system. Without the coolant, this gunk would harden where it collects. So, if you have a good catch can, or don't mind cleaning the throttle body regularly, bypassing the coolant flow through the throttle body should help reduce air temps; BATs for us.

That's my understanding at least.
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 Old 06-13-2009, 08:35 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by phaillyb View Post
i still really don't get this. you're taking coolant out of throttle body?

you are eliminating coolant flowing throughout some cavities of the throttle body by plugging some of the lines that feed it coolant. therefore making it cooler since the water temp after normal operating temps usually will be higher than the throttle body temp. The coolant flowing through there isn't to cool like inside the engine it serves another purpose, to heat.
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 Old 06-13-2009, 08:56 PM   #11
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I have a catch can on. When the TT L/A IC comes in I will tap it's cold pipe and spray the meth in front of the TB to help clean it, right now the meth is spraying thru the PTP freezeplug in the IM. Still getting vapors and crap from the Valve cover hose, I might put another catch can there too.
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 Old 06-14-2009, 12:09 AM   #12
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dope. thanks for the info. so for throttle body bypass, it's recommended to have a catch can elsewhere?
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 Old 06-14-2009, 06:11 AM   #13
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I would still recommend catch for the PCV area still, just another one at the valve cover hose also. That is just my opinion thou, you don't have to.

Last edited by bioevolve; 06-14-2009 at 02:58 PM.
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 Old 10-08-2009, 04:18 PM   #14
 
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So how cold does it have to be to put the throttle body coolant plumbing back on? It get to about 25 some nights here in Gainesville, but I dont drive to work so I dont have to dtart my car till it warms up.
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 Old 10-08-2009, 05:36 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 1mpg View Post
So how cold does it have to be to put the throttle body coolant plumbing back on? It get to about 25 some nights here in Gainesville, but I dont drive to work so I dont have to dtart my car till it warms up.
I guess below freezing, but if you turn the car on when it warms up I wouldn't worry about it.
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 Old 10-08-2009, 08:16 PM   #16
 
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I don't know where EGR is plumbed on this car but, often it's near the TB and the coolant is there to actually cool off the TB housing, as well as warm it during cold start.
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 Old 10-08-2009, 11:25 PM   #17
 
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i dont understand how it would be cooling it off. 190 degree coolant flowing through a throttle body that as cooler air already going through it only makes sense to me it keeps it hot. and i dont see why if it is freezing out that you need to heat it up?
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 Old 10-09-2009, 04:39 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by darth vader View Post
I don't know where EGR is plumbed on this car but, often it's near the TB and the coolant is there to actually cool off the TB housing, as well as warm it during cold start.
EGR is on the side of the TB closest to the head, other end to the side of the head closest to the inlet pipe/intake tube.
Coolant is only there to warm the TB. Unfreeze it if frozen.

Originally Posted by JmkC View Post
i dont understand how it would be cooling it off. 190 degree coolant flowing through a throttle body that as cooler air already going through it only makes sense to me it keeps it hot. and i dont see why if it is freezing out that you need to heat it up?
You are right it's not for cooling. We have Throttle by wire, gears on in the mechanics side of the system are attached to the TB. Also to help keep the butterfly plate and the shaft that the butterfly plate is attached to. If they are frozen, obviously it would get stuck hence the heating of the TB to unfreeze it.
I'm not sure how low the temps need to be to freeze the gears and/or the butterfly plate/shaft.
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 Old 10-09-2009, 04:38 PM   #19
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It is just a safety measure for colder climates, it would suck to have your TB stick while you are on the highway etc.
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 Old 10-09-2009, 10:37 PM   #20
 
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but really what are the chances of it freezing? its right up tight close to the motor. even the intake manifold gets hot from motor..
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 Old 10-10-2009, 01:13 AM   #21
 
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You don't know much about airplanes I bet. Airflow through venturis, with the increase in airspeed of that flow, can actually ice the surfaces up and that's what sticks them. Not immensely likely anywhere short of the Yukon but, possible.

If EGR is ANYWHERE near the TB, that's ~1300 degrees of exhaust heat hitting that TB. The 190 degree water takes most of that away, easily, being a better heat sink than the air that is now in those water passages.
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 Old 10-16-2009, 08:38 PM   #22
 
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bio, i recently undid my throttle body bypass so i could take my car in to the dealer to get my thermo replaced and i am just wondering if i put it back correctly. Is the hose at the very front (most forward) the input and the one towards the rear of the car is the exit that goes down to the little black pipe that is shown in your last pic? I think im gonna leave it hooked up for the winter and undo it again in the spring because it frequently gets down to single digits where i live. Sorry for the stupid question this seems like a common sense thing but i cannot remember how it was when i unhooked it.
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 Old 10-16-2009, 10:17 PM   #23
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Yes correct, if my memory serves me lol.
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 Old 06-06-2011, 02:31 PM   #24
 
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Another way to block the coolant hoses is just to pinch them closed with clamps- see pictures. This way is really quick, simple, cheap ($5), effective, and reversible, if you decide you don't like the results, or if you want to reactivate the coolant flow for winter.

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 Old 06-06-2011, 02:36 PM   #25
 
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 Old 06-06-2011, 02:53 PM   #26
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mods, can you please move this thread to the how-to section? rip, philly and bio.
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 Old 08-05-2011, 06:38 PM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by dkapetansky View Post
Another way to block the coolant hoses is just to pinch them closed with clamps- see pictures. This way is really quick, simple, cheap ($5), effective, and reversible, if you decide you don't like the results, or if you want to reactivate the coolant flow for winter.
How safe is this option being that the coolant is not being recirculated? Jw since it seems too easy to be true. I would think it needs to circulate. This is very similar to deleting the oil cooler on a previous car. The fluid still needs to flow and not just hit a wall. Discuss...
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 Old 08-05-2011, 06:47 PM   #28
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I will take a picture of mine but tomorrow but I just connected the lines that were going to the TP together. Been a month and my BATS are much lower, no issues.
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 Old 08-05-2011, 08:28 PM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH View Post
How safe is this option being that the coolant is not being recirculated? Jw since it seems too easy to be true. I would think it needs to circulate. This is very similar to deleting the oil cooler on a previous car. The fluid still needs to flow and not just hit a wall. Discuss...
I've been running this setup for 4 months now, and so far the only effect I've seen is lower BAT's. I'm not looking for trouble, and so far I haven't seen anything worrisome.
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 Old 08-05-2011, 08:38 PM   #30
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This is a great mod and works very well.
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 Old 08-06-2011, 06:12 PM   #31
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Here are the pictures of the TP bypass along with the capping of the TP.

I bought a barb connector from Home Depot to connect the lines (forgot size but fits well!) I then wrapped with tape, then reused the clamps.

hose barb connector Sales, Buy hose barb connector Products from alibaba.com

Once heatsoaked, meth or FMIC are the only real options. This mod really works well for limited stop and go for me!
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 Old 08-06-2011, 07:29 PM   #32
 
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^^^You kinda beat me to it, but here is what I used. I just did this today and it was incredibly easy. According to my AP it made a noticeable difference in BAT's. I got the barb and clamps from autozone for less than $10, I already had the vaccum caps, but you can get those there also.
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 Old 08-08-2011, 12:28 PM   #33
 
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@SLOWHATCH , when u did this, before u capped the tb inlet/outlet, did u allow the coolant to drain or just quick cap before it came out??
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 Old 08-08-2011, 12:58 PM   #34
 
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Could you just clamp the hoses with two pairs of vice grips near the TB so you wouldn't spill much? If I even look at my radiator hoses wrong it seems like I spill half a gallon.
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 Old 08-08-2011, 03:32 PM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by tooslow10lol View Post
@SLOWHATCH , when u did this, before u capped the tb inlet/outlet, did u allow the coolant to drain or just quick cap before it came out??
I was actually expecting coolant to run out, I even had a cup in place to catch it, but nothing came out. I was parked on a flat surface (in garage). Kinda surprised me that nothing came out. I even waited a bit while I was getting everything together and nothing. Car was cold, so guessing it had all ran back out?

Originally Posted by wankular View Post
Could you just clamp the hoses with two pairs of vice grips near the TB so you wouldn't spill much? If I even look at my radiator hoses wrong it seems like I spill half a gallon.
LOL. I think you will be ok on this one. But you can use the grips if you want, although if they are the reg size ones they will just be in the way. The hoses are pretty small. I would just undo the hose clamps at the tb, pull hoses and insert the barb, then connect the two hoses together and clamp everything down. Then cap the in/out on tb. Start the car and check for any leaks.

I would still have a small cup or something in place in case something does spill.

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 Old 08-08-2011, 03:37 PM   #36
 
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When people talk about "burping" the system, is that just the sequence of revving to get the air bubbles out? In the repair manual there are directions for this (hold at 2500 rpms for 30sec, etc...)
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 Old 08-08-2011, 03:53 PM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by wankular View Post
When people talk about "burping" the system, is that just the sequence of revving to get the air bubbles out? In the repair manual there are directions for this (hold at 2500 rpms for 30sec, etc...)
Some cars are different. My last car had a bleeder valve by the cap which was used to let out any air trapped in the system. This is usually only needed (to my knowledge) when draining and refilling the radiator.

I don't forsee this mod creating that issue, but anything is possible.

The sequence you mention, is that supposed to be done with the radiator overflow lid off?
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 Old 08-08-2011, 03:57 PM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH View Post
Some cars are different. My last car had a bleeder valve by the cap which was used to let out any air trapped in the system. This is usually only needed (to my knowledge) when draining and refilling the radiator.

I don't forsee this mod creating that issue, but anything is possible.

The sequence you mention, is that supposed to be done with the radiator overflow lid off?
I have only seen 1 person on the forum have a problem after doing this (and I believe it was resolved through "burping" lol.

You could always "burp" the system for safety, but the car will run really hot if there are air bubbles in the system (so you'll definitely know something is up if your engine coolant temps are higher than usual).
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 Old 08-08-2011, 04:48 PM   #39
 
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What a blast from the past this thread is lol
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 Old 08-08-2011, 04:50 PM   #40
 
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Someone bump bio's liquid to air intercooler thread next!
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WTB - Looking for an intercooler This thread Refback 08-05-2013 11:36 AM

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