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 Old 08-08-2011, 05:29 PM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
I have only seen 1 person on the forum have a problem after doing this (and I believe it was resolved through "burping" lol.

You could always "burp" the system for safety, but the car will run really hot if there are air bubbles in the system (so you'll definitely know something is up if your engine coolant temps are higher than usual).
So is the "burping" done with the coolat overflow lid off? JW. I haven't noticed anything unsual with my engine temps so far so I think all is well.
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 Old 08-08-2011, 05:34 PM   #42
 
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The thing in the manual didn't mention having the overflow cap off.

When I changed my top hoses I didn't do any burping, and ended up replacing most of my coolant. The temps were pretty high for a few days but went back to normal.
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 Old 08-08-2011, 05:39 PM   #43
 
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Originally Posted by wankular View Post
The thing in the manual didn't mention having the overflow cap off.

When I changed my top hoses I didn't do any burping, and ended up replacing most of my coolant. The temps were pretty high for a few days but went back to normal.
Maybe got rid of any air in the system by driving normal for a couple days I guess. I'll re check my coolant temps again next time I go for a drive. I have been monitoring my bat's more than anything lately, now that I know my fp is good.
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 Old 08-08-2011, 07:45 PM   #44
 
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Just for reference, on a really hot day, I see 210-215*F ECT's.
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 Old 08-10-2011, 03:27 PM   #45
 
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
Just for reference, on a really hot day, I see 210-215*F ECT's.
Ok, so yesterday and today I did some coolant temp monitoring. With around 99* outside temps (according to in dash display) my ap was registering 180-185* while cruising.

When stopped at a light it would slowly come up to around 200* and quickly drop after taking of. Today was slightly cooler around 95* and was still seeing similar coolant temps of 180-185* cruising.
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 Old 08-10-2011, 04:17 PM   #46
 
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Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH View Post
Ok, so yesterday and today I did some coolant temp monitoring. With around 99* outside temps (according to in dash display) my ap was registering 180-185* while cruising.

When stopped at a light it would slowly come up to around 200* and quickly drop after taking of. Today was slightly cooler around 95* and was still seeing similar coolant temps of 180-185* cruising.
Doesn't get much better than that.

My fmic blocks the radiator some, so I expect to have a bit higher ect's.
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 Old 08-10-2011, 04:36 PM   #47
 
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I was very surprised to see such low temps actually. I wonder if something was added to the coolant at some point, like some water wetter or something. I know a few of those products can make a small difference.

I ran some purple ice (i think thats what it was) with a 180* t stat on my last car and it made a huge difference in engine temps.

Did you remove the extra plastic behind the smiley on yours also? I know I talked to MicaBlue I think his username is and he said he removed a piece of plastic to get better flow. JW, never seen a front shot of your car.

Also my apologies if going off topic here.
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 Old 08-10-2011, 05:05 PM   #48
 
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My ECT's have gone up about 10 degrees since the FMIC. My fan never used to continue running after turning the car off, now it does most of the time. When it's 110+ out here (no shit) it never goes above 217, but I don't take real long trips either. And that's city traffic.
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 Old 08-10-2011, 05:11 PM   #49
 
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I'm pretty sure If i did more city driving my ect's would be higher as well, but i doubt they will be that high. Luckily I do a lot of highway driving. I hate stop and go. Makes too much brake dust lol.
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 Old 08-10-2011, 05:38 PM   #50
 
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I did this on an old car, and had the throttle play ice up on me a couple times. It was easy to detect and fix on a car with a direct throttle linkage, but I'm leary doing it on a throttle-by-wire car.


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 Old 08-10-2011, 08:23 PM   #51
 
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Originally Posted by silvapain View Post
I did this on an old car, and had the throttle play ice up on me a couple times. It was easy to detect and fix on a car with a direct throttle linkage, but I'm leary doing it on a throttle-by-wire car.


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I hear that. Luckily not only is it extremely easy to do the mod, but just as easy to reverse. So I will more than likely be reversing it once temps start to drop. My car is in a temperature controlled garage 90% of the time, but don't want to take any chances.
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 Old 08-11-2011, 10:01 AM   #52
 
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Thinking about doing this. Because I have nothing else to do to the car...
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 Old 08-11-2011, 10:20 AM   #53
 
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Originally Posted by silvapain View Post
I did this on an old car, and had the throttle play ice up on me a couple times. It was easy to detect and fix on a car with a direct throttle linkage, but I'm leary doing it on a throttle-by-wire car.


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Agreed.

Bnoon has had this "mod" done to his car, and I believe sees pretty low ambient temps in his area, and he mentioned he never had a problem.

Something to keep an eye on if you live where temps get cool in the winter.

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 Old 08-11-2011, 11:28 AM   #54
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Twice after this mod I got higher IAT temps then BAT's. Both times it was cloudy and I was in occasional stop and go traffic.

My IAT's are usually 3 degrees warmer then my ambient temps. according to the dashhawk while cruising.
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 Old 08-11-2011, 12:39 PM   #55
 
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I'm thinking about putting in a valve and solenoid actuated by a temperature switch. A lot more money and harder to install, but it removes the weak link in the equation (namely, my laziness).


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 Old 09-08-2011, 08:17 PM   #56
 
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On the basis of adding to an already long thread....

I just put duct tape on the throttle body input/output nipples and took the line that would have gone to the intake portion and had it go directly to the coolant line. Thought that since the tube is long enough, why buy more parts for a free mod

I really think I need to try the burping part though! I've taken the EGR, throttle body and a few other lines off and only added coolant. ECT temps show ok but engine acts like its running hot.
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 Old 09-11-2011, 11:07 PM   #57
 
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Originally Posted by wankular View Post
The thing in the manual didn't mention having the overflow cap off.

When I changed my top hoses I didn't do any burping, and ended up replacing most of my coolant. The temps were pretty high for a few days but went back to normal.
Frank, what have your temps been lately?

When you flushed your coolant what did you fill back up with? Which brand of coolant did you use? Did you put water wetter in it? Did you do a 50/50 mix or something different?
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 Old 09-12-2011, 10:25 AM   #58
 
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Originally Posted by Matrix311 View Post
Frank, what have your temps been lately?

When you flushed your coolant what did you fill back up with? Which brand of coolant did you use? Did you put water wetter in it? Did you do a 50/50 mix or something different?
I think I just used Prestone 50/50. My temps have been pretty high lately, approaching 220 after short trips, around 200 cruising. I wanted to use only distilled water/water wetter for the summer but never got around to it.
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 Old 11-02-2011, 05:55 PM   #59
 
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Originally Posted by dkapetansky View Post
Another way to block the coolant hoses is just to pinch them closed with clamps- see pictures. This way is really quick, simple, cheap ($5), effective, and reversible, if you decide you don't like the results, or if you want to reactivate the coolant flow for winter.(With photos)
I like the idea above.

I do not get the need to recirculate. Are these lines just takeoffs from a bigger line? If that is the case then I do not see the need to recirc....The only reason I would see for need of recirc is if there was a small pump at the start of the inlet line to the TB because then you would be deadheading the pump....


EDIT: one line, the front one, is definitely a takeoff from another...the other line runs down further down into the engine and I can not see where it eventually leads too..

Last edited by seige123; 11-02-2011 at 06:24 PM.
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 Old 11-02-2011, 09:01 PM   #60
 
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To save the trouble and not spend a dime and keep the lines flowing properly: the first line (closest to fans) can be routed directly to where the second hose connects up to the end connection. You just take away the second line completely.
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To save the trouble and not spend a dime and keep the lines flowing properly: the first line (closest to fans) can be routed directly to where the second hose connects up to the end connection. You just take away the second line completely.



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