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Throw Out bearing? So driving today in stop and go traffic, suddenly clutch pedal is fully depressed, can raise it up manually, but won't work or go into gear while car is running. I can shift through gears with engine off. So I'm thinking clutch, clutch cable, or throw out bearing. Any suggestions or help before I have someone tear into it for no reason... |
Throw Out bearing? Sounds like a Slave cylinder / master cylinder failure. Have someone look at the slave cylinder while actuating the clutch petal and see if it's moving/leaking |
Update. Got the car home, popped the hood. Slave cylinder boot ruptured. Break fluid all over thew boot and bottom of skid tray. I'll know more when I jack it up. Any chance there could be more damage? Car never went into gear, and I didn't rev or try to force anything with the engine running. |
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Yep. It looks easy enough to replace.. looking around though... Will I need a new hard line? I found this thread where Mazda updated the part and they had to buy a new hardline: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...linder-162084/ without listing the hardline they bought... Kinda need to do this quick, its my only car... |
You shouldn't need a new hard line. Slave and new fluid should work fine |
Looks like it depends what version of the part you get. You could always buy a rebuild kit for your slave or get one from a local parts store where you can compare to yours for exact match. |
I had the "older" slave in my 07. It broke got the "newer" style thats in the thread and it works exactly the same. Did not have to get a new hard line. Make sure there is a small black cushion on the end of the hard line. Most times it gets stuck inside the old housing. If you dont put it on the end of the hard line, it will leak Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
fix it? make sure to bleed the crap out of it. Would recommend a vacuum bleeder to get the job done. |
Nope. Haven't fixed it yet. I dint have a garage and it was raining non-stop yesterday, and again today. Going to try to overnight a new cylinder from mazdapartsonline. I need to do plugs and an air filter anyway, do might as well knock this and everything else out at the same time. I'll have someone pumping the the clutch while I bleed it. Thanks for everyones advice and I'll update once it's done. |
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Ok, got the new slave cylinder installed, in addition to spark plugs, and a new air filter for my CAI. Now I'm having issues bleeding it. Could there be air somewhere else in the system? I open the bleeder 1/8th to 1/4 turn open, not much at all. I did buy a vacuum gun, and at this point I'm thinking maybe the hose doesn't have a "tight" seal from the bleeder to the gun... How do you bleed this? And FYI I'll post a pic, the old cylinder has a tiny perfect pin hole along the seam of the red boot, so that was the problem. |
Throw Out bearing? If its an older style slave. They had a pin hole in the red boot. I bet the bushing back further is popped out and letting the fluid by pass. It takes awhile to bleed. I usually find the best way is the two person method. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
You'll still need to pump the pedal a few times with the line open or a bleeder bottle attached. 2 person method works best as always. Don't forget the cap needs to be off the reservoir for a gun to work. |
To begin with I usually remove the bleed nipple and put my finger over the hole so that I can feel the pressure building, that way you know it's working as it should. Sent from my Xperia Z using Tapatalk 4 |
I've been trying a couple hours now, I doubt it should take that long. I've had a couple people that really dont know whats going on, even when they say the fluid is topped off, I think they let it get too low. I can't be in two or three places at once.. This is a bitch. Frustrated, Trying to get another buddy of mine thats an actual mechanic to tackle it again this weekend. A few times the pedal felt like it should, but air would come up through the reservoir when the clutch pedal was pumped. Not sure if reservoir would get too low when it was close to being done and air would reenter the system, or if air is getting through the bleeder, either the bleeder itself, or the vacuum gun.... So close, but yet so far. :( |
Tried the close nipple pump up the pedal and hold down then open the nipple method? Sent from my Xperia Z using Tapatalk 4 |
Air should not be bubbling up. You may have a bad clutch master cylinder Have you tried: 1.) having somebody watch the fluid level 2.) Open bleeder (leave it open) 3.) Pump pedal 1-3 times (stomp it) 4.) Fill 5.) Repeat 3 & 4 a few times 6.) Bleed normally Air should be getting pushed down and out of the line through the open valve in the slave. if it is bubbling up, something is leaking above. |
Air only comes up with the bleeder closed. I didn't have anyone extra to help yesterday. This is really stupid. I don't get what detail I'm missing. At this point I might just say screw it and get towed to Mazda and have them bleed it. Or burn it and get something new. Slave cylinders are a retarded design for sure... There has to be an easier and better way... |
Hydraulic clutch pedals are always a pita to bleed, just keep trying the methods posted above. Sent from my Xperia Z using Tapatalk 4 |
It is simple hydraulics, fluid displacement. I don't mean to insult you at all, but you've done a brake bleed before, right? You know to keep the pedal on the floor until the bleeder is closed, then pump and repeat. Sometimes slave cylinders have to be left overnight to gravity bleed due to the shape of the line. |
Did you get your air issue resolved? |
*Update*. Had my mechanic friend come over and help bleed it. We just used pedal and bleed method. He said he didn't see any air come out, only fluid, and suggested I take it for a drive around my parking lot. Gears engaged with just barely releasing the clutch, came bake back, bled again, and pedal felt like it should. I hope it was fixed, time will tell though. Thanks for everyone's advice and fingers crossed it holds up for another 100,000 miles. :) |
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