Transmission mount bolts failing
 

So I have had three transmission mount fails. In this order OEM, JBR, and OEM. The stealership covered the JBR fail and replaced it with an OEM one. vehicle only has 53,*** miles on the clock. Anyone else have this problem and what did you do to fix it. I was thinking of using APR studs since in all cases the bolt was the part that gave way. Any input would help a lot. Tired of spending money on mount problems cause its taking away funds from the "fun parts" fund.

other info
TORQ R3 rear mount STREET URETHANE
JBR Passenger mount 70A

Extremely surprised the JBR TMM failed, this thing is built like a brick shithouse. Very strange 3 of them have failed in total, but I don't know what would cause an issue like that...

Wow...JBR would have covered it right off the bat...But three mounts...your doing something wrong...

So, I take it you drive like a grandma? If you beat the shit out of your car, shit's going to break. :dot:

How much air do you generally get (partial joke)? what is going on when they fail? I would believe the crappy RMM, but the TMM? how are your tires, etc?

Wait, the dealership warrantied an aftermarket product....that's odd.

I agree. OP is doing something wrong to have busted 3 mounts.

Must be lining up at every light and stop sign and dumping his clutch at 5k on street slicks. Racecar

in all three cases the bolt snapped even with the JBR. the JBR mount is still intact so I saw no need to contact them I just dropped the car to the stealership cause I didn't want to deal with it. and if I wanted to baby the car I would have bought a Honda civic. better input would be appreciated.

What did you torque the JBR to?

What did you do for threadlocker?

How did you support the tranny during TMM installation?

JBR Trilogy properly installed should be pretty bulletproof, might divide the load up between the 3 mounts better too.

I'm having doubts about defective product though

I'm betting the bolt wasn't torqued properly when it snapped. It probably started to back out, they need retorqued after break in. Also, did you put loctite on like instructed? @jbarone; any input?

Edit: nijad'd. What he said ^

Theres something fishy with this thread and the input within...

Also, don't ask for better input....or you're going to be introduced to the riot squad.

Right that reminds me,

if you haven't you should be re-torquing to spec subsequently after install.

I checked after about a week, then another week, or sometimes when I'm just in the area working on something else, you probably dont hve to check that much but it takes like 5 seconds anyway

13 posts since 2009? WTF? I sure hope he's a reader.

Shooting this ISH from my iPhone using forCUMrunner

rmm 65,75lb
passenger 60lb
driver 90lbs
red threadlock on every mount bolt

in no way am I doubting the quality of the JBR mount its strong, like I said its the bolt that snapped. I am no stranger to tools either. and Yah I only post when I have to most thing I can figure out with t FSM I have. just wanted to see if anyone had a solution to the exploding bolt problem as the recall didn't do squat.
and for the routine torque downs did that too but the bolt still backed out.

so back to my original concern would a bolt such as arp s hold up better

Heavy duty lock washer.

Shooting this ISH from my iPhone using forCUMrunner

Yeah I guess higher strength bolt, but since guys that track their cars aren't having this problem, and guys dragging with 500 hp don't experience it, I would assume it's driver error or install error.

I can't speak to the number of mounts the OP had fail but it could have been a defective bolt.

I'm changing the thread title.

Don't say the trans mount is failing, if its the bolt is breaking. None of your trans mounts failed... Stupid shit like this is bad for business for Jamie, and the man makes a quality product.

OP: If you're really snapping bolts, there's something wrong. Check your axles, check the rmm, check all mounts to make sure they're properly bolted in.

If you keep snapping bolts............shit I dunno, call ARP and find a bolt with incredible shear resistance?

I am 6 year MS3 owner. I have been around for the early 2007 transmission mount bolt recall for it backing out, and shearing. The OEM transmission bolt is well known to still be a failure, up to 2009 models. The original bolt was a lower grade, too. The problem is, it still backs out.

Now add onto the fact that one main bolt is a ONE TIME USE bolt. Once torqued, that's it. Threads expand to hold it in place. However, when many swap mounts, it is reused, and can still fail. Most are successful in the reuse by coating the shit out of it in red loctite.

There are also documented cases where the bracket to the trans mount, attached to the transmission, fails. It literally shatters or cracks apart, engine falls out.

I cannot figure out if you had the single main bolt, or the bracket fail, due to use of "APR studs". If it was the bracket, the bolts could have damaged the threads where they bolt the bracket to the trans, so no matter what you install, they will pull out.

More information is truly needed for anyone to help you.

Where is the proof that the trans mount bolt is a TTY bolt?

The way I understood is that the only TTY bolt on the car is the crank pulley bolt.

I've reused my trans bolt 3 times now.

This goes back to M3F in 2007 and the docs from the dealer, and a few posts. Unfortunately I tried to find the info before, but that shithole has no functioning search.

So you're full of crap then, is what the little voices swirling around your head are saying.
:burnout:




lol

Negative. If anything, it is a recommended 1 time use, but still looking for the info about the expanding threads once torqued to 110 lbs.

I seriously have NCE because i replaced mine when I installed my TRZ about 60K miles ago, and the little shit hasn't moved. Of course, i emptied a tube of Loctite on it to make it look like a used tampon. No bolt is backing out on my watch. LOL.

did some searching around on M3F and other places

it seems at one time the bolt was 9ya02-1431a (A type) which was a grade 8 bolt

they then switched to 9ya02-1437A (B type) which is a grade 10 bolt, the 1437A is the only type i could find to purchase on the net

here is the torque specs

http://i.imgur.com/1Tt3V.png

so it would seem like most cars that have done a replacement, or all cars past a certain build date (not sure when the original issues were occurring) should have a grade 10 bolt

now, i have yet to come up with any definitive documentation that says this is a TTY bolt, but many on M3F have posted that it is....so take that for what it is worth

edit:

found the recall letter, but it is missing attachment II which has the repair procedure

attached below

edit edit:

found the repair procedure, no mention of it being TTY

Even with the new bolt, they were failing. My buddy Ryan had an 08.5 or 09 and it failed. Had Mazda even come out from Japan and Cali to Louisiana to take a look. They took the mount home, replaced it and all the carnage under warranty.

Bottom line, the trans mount should not fail. The bolts should not fail. When the factory one shit itself the first time. I am guessing there was unrepairable damage done to the area.

More info/pics needed.

thanks everyone. ll post pic of the damage this weekend of all three bolts.

115 lbs of torque is not nearly enough to stretch a Class 10 M14 bolt.
You can most definitely reuse it if not clamped to a higher torque than that.

Edit: BTW OP is a faggot.

can i get the measurements for the bolt included with your transmission mount?

hurray for internet gangstas!!

anyway went under the car this weekend. the rear mount bushing is jacked as well, cv sprayed grease everywhere but, parts needed for repair already ordered.

Maybe when installed.... you cross-thread your bolts and looked/felt flushed. Or you hulk the shit out of them when tightening

im going to say what everyone else has said... there is not enough information here to make a good judgement call as to what is causing all this fail... more pics and detailed description on any and all other issues that could relate to this, I.E. axels RMM PMM shit even just a bad alignment on the top plate to the tripod when you installed the JBR could have fucked your couch.

seams like, stock bolt snapped/backed out... and you replaced the bolt and the mount with a JBR tmm? right?

then the bolt snapped/backed out again with the JBR mount?? right??

then dealer replaced JBR with stock mount and new bolt??? and that one snapped/backed out too?

seams to me, as @Raider; was saying, the original bolt had the known failure, and what ever caused that... who knows, but then it happened again with the JBR install?

JBR TMM replaced the stock tripod mount as well as the top plate. so the threads there are fresh and new.... and should not have any effect on the torquing of the mount. though if the first bolt backed out and didnt snap (or whatever happened) and you reused it... maybe it was a faulty bolt.

then i could see it having issues the second time around. but what about the third.... to many unknown variables and not enough known variables. More information is most definitely needed. Just my $0.02 and personal opinion.