Valvoline High Mileadge Oil? anyone tried it?
 

I have bin searching the forums and haven't found an answer to my question. It seems like most everyone runs 100% synthetic, However... I am a Big fan a Valvoline High mileage so I was wondering if its even an Option? I just got my MS3 (131000 miles) and the previous/Original owner has bin using 100% synthetic. I pan to do an Oil Analysis to try and figure what the oil change frequency should be. However, I am just wondering if anyone uses Valvoline or if I can?

Thanks in Advance, Arkangel77

Pretty sure the manual says to use synthetic oil but I just read a thread where a guy said he has never used synthetic oil and has well over 100k on the motor.
I'm sure if you changed it religiously you'd probably be OK.
it would be very interesting to see some UOA's on conventional oil on these cars.

The Valv High Mileage is awesome stuff and i use it on all my other cars but None of the others are Turbo's? soo - that's my concern

Synthetic oil has less viscosity improver additives and maintains viscosity levels when operating better than a conventional counterpart. As the oil shears it loses viscosity and can thin overtime; synthetics limit this loss.
Generally speaking, too light of an oil can cause it to seep past the rings and enter the combustion chamber. Being a direct injection motor it should be avoided as I suppose it can cause damage.

This all would assume you are not changing your oil at appropriate intervals.

Additionally, I'm uncertain how a high mileage mix addresses this.

Thank you for the explanation, I have read a huge Oil blog about oils and ware protection and what oils perform best under extreme heat. The Valv H.M. was one of the best and is very reasonable in price

I suggest you stick to the proven engine oils. That's Penzoil platinum or Rotella t6. If you choose not to then you should change your oil every 2,500 miles or so until you get your u.o.a. back showing how it holds up.

I think Ima stick with Synthetic at least for a While, probably forever. Think Ima use Mobil 1 synthetic. I still plan on getting the UOA done to figure out what the change frequency should be. Thanks for the Input though

Mobile 1 isn't that good for our cars, if you searched, you'll find out that all this has been tested and proved. And the same goes for Oil Filters. T6 is the best and Pennzoil Platinum Pure Plus is also excellent.

sent from my Nexus 6P

I'm running MOTUL 8100. Any thoughts on how that stacks compared to pennzoil platinum and T6?

Easy. Get a Used Oil Test done.

You can get it tested by Blackstone Labs.

sent from my Nexus 6P

I have 135k on my 08' I run Pennzoil Platinum, and I got a great report back from blackstone labs afterwards not showing any issues. I change it ever 3-5k.

any thoughts on oil change Frequency with Pennzoil Platinum or T6?

I have a 2013 and I use PP every 3k miles a bit excessive I know...


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Same here

wow - That seems very frequent, DO you change it that often to try and protect the Turbo or something?

Just search and read dude. There are threads already covering this in depth with answers to every question you've asked so far.

I have bin searching and reading for 3 days. When i searched about info on high miledge oil i dident get any results but i am sure i was doing something wrong. There is a lot of info on this site but the search dosent seem to be user friendly to me =)

Conventional is conventional for the most part. I've never seen anyone ask about valvoline high mileage specifically but again it doesn't matter. I know navigating this sight can be annoying in the beginning but you don't need to in order to find what you're looking for. Just google the exact question question on your mind and include with it mazdaspeedforums and it'll give you every thread you need.

If you read the oil change and U.O.A. threads you would know what to do. Learn how to extrapolate and go read!

There is heaps of information and data suggesting DISI motors break oil down relatively quick. Breakdown is a combination of contamination of the oil with fuel as well as a breakdown of the viscosity improvers. Both of these factor in less effective lubrication. Thus is mainly why frequent (3k-5k) changes are recommended.

Also, search using Google.com

Site:mazdaspeedforums.org high mileage oil

Yeah what he said lol... My reasoning behind it was that our cars are turbo cars therefore the oil is being pushed a lot more than in a NA car. So for that reason alone i change it frequently... Plus and oil change cost me $30 and 20 mins..:


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Which is why speed owners only use the toughest synthetic motor oils.

Thank you all VERY much for your replies and your Input. I very much appreciate it

Use whatever oil you want, and change it often. Change conventional more often than synthetic if you go that route. Unless you're running e-85 and trying to prevent sticky death, there isn't much of a reason to use a certain oil. Just change the oil at proper intervals for what you choose and get an appropriate weight oil.

I ran Castrol conventional on this motor for the first 12k miles. I know @phate; runs a cheap Wal-Mart brand oil.

Get a UOA done if you're really worried about it.

We don't use syntetic for the turbo at first, but because the engine is turbocharged.
The oil film on the rod bearing needs to take at least twice as much stress than n/a engines because each piston makes more power/cc ratio.
The oil is also put under higher temperature conditions in the turbo and under extreme pressure if it knock a little bit.
We also have a low rpm torque availibility, so our engine will see a lot more stress under normal driving conditions than a n/a engine, if you don't drive it like you need to. (downshifting)
For these reasons and manny others, extending the oil changes and using low cost engine oil on these engines is probably the best way to get troubles...

JUst a note, cars with timing chain guides, almost always recomend a synthetic or semi synthetic oil. I run mobil, but the diesel synthetic version.

Just run baby oil

Made from real babies.

Over 70k on WalMart Super Tech conventional. Oil is oil, waste your money as you see fit.

It's a decent oil. I'd rather go for the x-clean or X-cess I think.

Do not use the mobil1 oils. The additives they use burn with a lot of ash. Same for rotella, if it burns (and it will at some point) it will leave a lot of ash like any oil designed for diesel engines which had later added recommendations for use in petrol engines.

You could rather use the Mazda OEM oil (Dexelia ultra). That's an oil made by Total, it's a semi-synthetic and it burns very clean, so even if you will have to change it often at least the intake valves will not gunk up that quickly.
But of you hoon your car frequently you should really look into a good full synthetic, mid SAPS, 0w40 or 5w40, or even 5w50 if you live in a very hot climate.

I use motor craft 5w 30 synthetic blend which I've never heard anyone recommend before but I use it anyway. I change it every 2,500 miles. Still, I recommended PP or rt6 for OP because they had some of the best u.o.a.'s.

Woah, is this one actually good?

Super Tech Full Synthetic 5W30 Motor Oil, 5 qt - Walmart.com

Has anyone gotten a used oil test done on this?

Edit: Found this http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2225875 (no long-term test though)

I've had plenty of UOA's done with the SuperTech, no issues. photobucket is down right now, but I can post my last one whenever it comes back up.

I agree that it's probably fine to run any low cost oil and change it often, but we all fall for the hype of what we think is bigger and better and wanna try it out. Not much different than trying a new part and saying how much better it feels when in reality it did jack.

I've tried Amsoil 5w30 sig, Motul 8100 xcess 5w40, Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w40, Rotella T6, M1 5w30ep. Some did seem to 'feel' better than others, some seemed to make the hpfp rattle less, some seemed to get dirty quicker than others, some did better with limiting soot out of the exhaust, but most of it is probably in my head. I have never done a UOA because I've read tons of them online and it doesn't really seem to matter which oil you use if you change it often.

how often do you replace it ?

3000-3500 miles. It's all about cost/mile, and it's as cheap as it gets until you start running synthetic blends over ~6500 miles per change.

You said you use regular / non-synthetic right, so you use this one not the one posted earlier, correct?
SuperTech 5W30 Motor Oil, 5-Quart - Walmart.com

Sorry Clint.

Yes, regular conventional, non-synthetic. 20W-50, though, because we set up my engine pretty loose.

i was wondering about the reduced soot i noticed when i went to T6 and found this other thread:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...a-soot-178256/

I think it's funny how right away people called his claim BS, and how many folks thanked the people calling it BS, yet a handful of folks noticed the big reduction in tailpipe soot when we went to T6, myself included.
Although i've heard that the T6 can create more ash deposits. No clue how true that is, yet to be proven I think. but I also have to wonder, if the soot isn't coming out of the back like it used to, where is it going? On my last oil change of less than 900 miles of T6, the oil was just as dirty looking as ever, so maybe the trade off for less soot is dirty oil. That's a mere speculation. I'm not knocking it in any way, just curious. It seems to get great UOAs and is a very good price.

NAPA oil is made by ashford the same people that make Valvoline 95k on NAPA synthetic 5w-20

Anyone ever run Liquidmoly 5w-40

Robot Check

I priced some T6 today and was very surprised at how reasonable it was, However after reading all that I am clear as MUD! lol

Kinda dont matter how many threads you read - There is No One oil that all agree on...

SO I guess I will wing it - Play it by ear - and stick with some recommended synthetics and see what one i like after I try a few

No but almost gave it a try and ended up with motul instead. I've read some people swear by the liquimoly. I say go for it.

Another I'd like to try is redline but its pretty spendy.

I see motul has this ester based stuff but don't see it available for a reasonable price anywhere either.
https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/m...png?1409560151

That's a good oil possibly a bit better than the Motul. Try it and see how it works for your car and driving habits.

With the exception of the 4600 mile change, this was all with SuperTech conventional. I switched over to M1 15-50 synthetic for one change when it was on sale. It did hold its viscosity a little better, otherwise a synthetic isn't anything impressive in terms of wear metals. I have another 10k miles on the engine at this point, it's probably about time for another UOA.

Remember that this car is autocrossed twice/month with 200+ runs per year. We turn 7500 rpm at nearly every autocross. It's also been on a road course with the same oil, nbd.

The real advantage to a synthetic is its ability to have 2x or longer life than conventional. If you plan to run short changes (~4k miles or less), it doesn't make any sense to run a synthetic. Once you start to push into the 6k+ miles range on an oil interval, you're starting to see some cost benefit.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psit1hxksz.png

Thanks for the post, @phate

I use Redline 5w-30 right now. I used 0w-40 for two changes thinking it would protect and flow better but switched back to 5w-30 now... not sure if my thinking was sound or not...

Works great, never ever burned/consumed oil and I am at 41k... but like everyone else has said you dont need it... I just use it for peace of mind (at a high price I might add)

Either of those two is fine with our engines. If you're on the factory turbo though you may need to stay with 0/5 w40 though. The thinner oil tends to get past the turbo seals and make its way into the exhaust, and will also dry on the turbo shaft. The mid SAPS 5w40 euro formula should be perfect. I'm using redline oils myself, the 5w40 and 0w40 during winter, or when I can't find Millers nano.

Honestly a very interesting read with how often people raise their pitch forks at the idea of anything but Rotella. And just goes to show, its a fucking car engine it just needs oil. Yes better oil is "better" but within the < 3-4k oil change time frame the engine is just starting to break it down but not enough to matter.

Wont change what I run but a good food for thought.

If it wasn't a DI engine and it didn't have low emissions catalythic converters choosing the oil would have been a lot simpler.
But it's DI, it has cats, it runs pretty darn hot while the cooling approach and crank case and valve cover ventilation are not the best in the industry, and the higher and higher concentration of ethanol in the fuel blends (pump gas or E mixes done by the owner) makes choosing the right oil a lot harder.
I know it should be simple but it's not.

Yeah, stock turbo is a leaking sack a crap.... mine hasn't started yet but I assume it will eventually. Thanks for the input, looks like I am going to do 0W-40 again next time instead of the 5W-30... you know so I dont smoke like Danny Bonaduce in the future.

im at 135k, no leaks here

You give me hope sir. My buddy actually has 109000 on his and not a single bit of smoke. I am running 21psi on E85 but its a DD so I don't hammer on it all the time. Just when muscle cars try and flex then I cant resist killing them in a race.

I am at 182k on original turbo. I think it might be going but not sure. For the past 20k I have been on an partial e-85 mix but might be coming off of that since ill be moving and wont be able to store gas cans I think. Since 148k I have been using rotella t6 and changing it between 3-4k depending on how I have been driving.

I will tell ya the truth, from the study I read it seems like Valvoline High Mileage 5w30 is one of the best oils out there for Older cars that use 5w30. I use it in my 3 other daily driven vehicles.

HOWEVER - after reading the responses here, understanding that out stock turbo's seem to do better on 5w40, and after pricing the T6 (which is very reasonable imo). I have decided that T6 will be the Oil I use on my MS3 from now on.

Previous owner used Castrol 5w30 synthetic from day one till he sold it to me. The turbo dose smoke a little but he said its gota be sitting at idol for a LONG time b4 it dose it. He also waited about twice as long as I think you should between oil changes- sooo ....

This thread has bin a great read with great responses, Thank you all very much

Usually smokes after like 15-20min I think at idle. The only real way to make sure you intervals are correct are to do Blackstone labs which i am t lazy to do. I have always done oil at 3-4k even on the car I use to own. The t6 is thicker(40 instead of 30) when warm which usually helps prevent smoky turbo.

If it starts smoking after idling 20-30 minutes then you only have the symptoms and predisposition to end up with a smokey turbo. A w40 grade oil will fix this and may extend the life of your turbo indefinitely.

I also purchased a Banjo Bolt and a Turbo re-Build / upgraded Kit. I was planing to take care of it all at once when I replaced the EGR. =)

Although, After cleaning the TB and the EGR port's in the Intake Friday, My check engine light went away yesterday lol. Go Figure, and I already have all the new parts ordered and paid for...

I'm probably missing something here but I never understood how the banjo bolt is a 'fix' when in theory it's just starving the turbo of the oil it needs.

From what e remember reading and someone can jump all over this if Its not accurate. The smaller hole in the bolt will supply enough oil tot he turbo but wont over feed it. My Understanding is that the stock bolts allow more oil than is needed to flow into the turbo. ALSO the drain line from the turbo is too small so the oil kinda backs up sorta???

Raise ur idle bruh

Yep - I read that a lot also. Go from 800 to 1000. Is there new information about the Banjo Bolt that shows it to be a Problem? BTW - I dont have a way - currently, to raise the idle

Mobil 1 synthetic is not actually synthetic and is way overpriced for what it is. For the same money you can get actual good full synthetic oil like amsoil.

I guess u better get yourself an AP then. 900 rpm should suffice.

I may get an AP one day, however - i can promise you that i would not buy it for the sole purpose of going from 800 to 900 RPMs at idol...... lol

You should buy it for the sole purpose of owning a mazdaspeed 3.

What do u have now? Just an intake + stock tune?

Yes, that's correct! I onlu bought the car about 10 days ago lol. Right now i am more focused on doing maintenance and repair of anything that needs attention.

However, once i get passed all that, an AP and HPFP internals are probably what i will be looking into =)

The stock tune blew infinitely more cars compared to mild stage1-like tunes. It has a lot to do with the stock tune aggressiveness to save fuel and run as efficient as possible, and it's stubborn enough to want to keep the AFRs lean, VVT and advance timing high even during mild spool-up. This is one of the possible reasons for low speed pre-ignition which blew cars cruising on highway, off boost, just during a gear change or something.

Get yourself an AP or the Versatuner. You can get an used AP v2 which are cheaper these days. Hell, even a hypertech would be a lot better than the stock tune.

Where are you seeing Amsoil costing the same as Mobil1?
From what I've seen, Mobil1 is $22/5qt jug at walmart or Amazon, and Amsoil 5w30sig is $11/qt at Napa or online.

The local salvo auto parts has both for $8.50 a quart.

Mobil 1 may have come down in price but its not worth any price premium over dinosaur oil.