Anyone ever run Liquidmoly 5w-40

Robot Check

I priced some T6 today and was very surprised at how reasonable it was, However after reading all that I am clear as MUD! lol

Kinda dont matter how many threads you read - There is No One oil that all agree on...

SO I guess I will wing it - Play it by ear - and stick with some recommended synthetics and see what one i like after I try a few

No but almost gave it a try and ended up with motul instead. I've read some people swear by the liquimoly. I say go for it.

Another I'd like to try is redline but its pretty spendy.

I see motul has this ester based stuff but don't see it available for a reasonable price anywhere either.
https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/m...png?1409560151

That's a good oil possibly a bit better than the Motul. Try it and see how it works for your car and driving habits.

With the exception of the 4600 mile change, this was all with SuperTech conventional. I switched over to M1 15-50 synthetic for one change when it was on sale. It did hold its viscosity a little better, otherwise a synthetic isn't anything impressive in terms of wear metals. I have another 10k miles on the engine at this point, it's probably about time for another UOA.

Remember that this car is autocrossed twice/month with 200+ runs per year. We turn 7500 rpm at nearly every autocross. It's also been on a road course with the same oil, nbd.

The real advantage to a synthetic is its ability to have 2x or longer life than conventional. If you plan to run short changes (~4k miles or less), it doesn't make any sense to run a synthetic. Once you start to push into the 6k+ miles range on an oil interval, you're starting to see some cost benefit.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psit1hxksz.png

Thanks for the post, @phate

I use Redline 5w-30 right now. I used 0w-40 for two changes thinking it would protect and flow better but switched back to 5w-30 now... not sure if my thinking was sound or not...

Works great, never ever burned/consumed oil and I am at 41k... but like everyone else has said you dont need it... I just use it for peace of mind (at a high price I might add)

Either of those two is fine with our engines. If you're on the factory turbo though you may need to stay with 0/5 w40 though. The thinner oil tends to get past the turbo seals and make its way into the exhaust, and will also dry on the turbo shaft. The mid SAPS 5w40 euro formula should be perfect. I'm using redline oils myself, the 5w40 and 0w40 during winter, or when I can't find Millers nano.

Honestly a very interesting read with how often people raise their pitch forks at the idea of anything but Rotella. And just goes to show, its a fucking car engine it just needs oil. Yes better oil is "better" but within the < 3-4k oil change time frame the engine is just starting to break it down but not enough to matter.

Wont change what I run but a good food for thought.

If it wasn't a DI engine and it didn't have low emissions catalythic converters choosing the oil would have been a lot simpler.
But it's DI, it has cats, it runs pretty darn hot while the cooling approach and crank case and valve cover ventilation are not the best in the industry, and the higher and higher concentration of ethanol in the fuel blends (pump gas or E mixes done by the owner) makes choosing the right oil a lot harder.
I know it should be simple but it's not.

Yeah, stock turbo is a leaking sack a crap.... mine hasn't started yet but I assume it will eventually. Thanks for the input, looks like I am going to do 0W-40 again next time instead of the 5W-30... you know so I dont smoke like Danny Bonaduce in the future.

im at 135k, no leaks here

You give me hope sir. My buddy actually has 109000 on his and not a single bit of smoke. I am running 21psi on E85 but its a DD so I don't hammer on it all the time. Just when muscle cars try and flex then I cant resist killing them in a race.

I am at 182k on original turbo. I think it might be going but not sure. For the past 20k I have been on an partial e-85 mix but might be coming off of that since ill be moving and wont be able to store gas cans I think. Since 148k I have been using rotella t6 and changing it between 3-4k depending on how I have been driving.

I will tell ya the truth, from the study I read it seems like Valvoline High Mileage 5w30 is one of the best oils out there for Older cars that use 5w30. I use it in my 3 other daily driven vehicles.

HOWEVER - after reading the responses here, understanding that out stock turbo's seem to do better on 5w40, and after pricing the T6 (which is very reasonable imo). I have decided that T6 will be the Oil I use on my MS3 from now on.

Previous owner used Castrol 5w30 synthetic from day one till he sold it to me. The turbo dose smoke a little but he said its gota be sitting at idol for a LONG time b4 it dose it. He also waited about twice as long as I think you should between oil changes- sooo ....

This thread has bin a great read with great responses, Thank you all very much

Usually smokes after like 15-20min I think at idle. The only real way to make sure you intervals are correct are to do Blackstone labs which i am t lazy to do. I have always done oil at 3-4k even on the car I use to own. The t6 is thicker(40 instead of 30) when warm which usually helps prevent smoky turbo.

If it starts smoking after idling 20-30 minutes then you only have the symptoms and predisposition to end up with a smokey turbo. A w40 grade oil will fix this and may extend the life of your turbo indefinitely.

I also purchased a Banjo Bolt and a Turbo re-Build / upgraded Kit. I was planing to take care of it all at once when I replaced the EGR. =)

Although, After cleaning the TB and the EGR port's in the Intake Friday, My check engine light went away yesterday lol. Go Figure, and I already have all the new parts ordered and paid for...

I'm probably missing something here but I never understood how the banjo bolt is a 'fix' when in theory it's just starving the turbo of the oil it needs.

From what e remember reading and someone can jump all over this if Its not accurate. The smaller hole in the bolt will supply enough oil tot he turbo but wont over feed it. My Understanding is that the stock bolts allow more oil than is needed to flow into the turbo. ALSO the drain line from the turbo is too small so the oil kinda backs up sorta???

Raise ur idle bruh

Yep - I read that a lot also. Go from 800 to 1000. Is there new information about the Banjo Bolt that shows it to be a Problem? BTW - I dont have a way - currently, to raise the idle

Mobil 1 synthetic is not actually synthetic and is way overpriced for what it is. For the same money you can get actual good full synthetic oil like amsoil.

I guess u better get yourself an AP then. 900 rpm should suffice.

I may get an AP one day, however - i can promise you that i would not buy it for the sole purpose of going from 800 to 900 RPMs at idol...... lol

You should buy it for the sole purpose of owning a mazdaspeed 3.

What do u have now? Just an intake + stock tune?

Yes, that's correct! I onlu bought the car about 10 days ago lol. Right now i am more focused on doing maintenance and repair of anything that needs attention.

However, once i get passed all that, an AP and HPFP internals are probably what i will be looking into =)

The stock tune blew infinitely more cars compared to mild stage1-like tunes. It has a lot to do with the stock tune aggressiveness to save fuel and run as efficient as possible, and it's stubborn enough to want to keep the AFRs lean, VVT and advance timing high even during mild spool-up. This is one of the possible reasons for low speed pre-ignition which blew cars cruising on highway, off boost, just during a gear change or something.

Get yourself an AP or the Versatuner. You can get an used AP v2 which are cheaper these days. Hell, even a hypertech would be a lot better than the stock tune.

Where are you seeing Amsoil costing the same as Mobil1?
From what I've seen, Mobil1 is $22/5qt jug at walmart or Amazon, and Amsoil 5w30sig is $11/qt at Napa or online.

The local salvo auto parts has both for $8.50 a quart.

Mobil 1 may have come down in price but its not worth any price premium over dinosaur oil.