Voltage Stabilizer/Grounding Kits...Complete Crap?
 

Hey Guys,

Does anyone run these on their MS3/6, are they total horse shit? My interests of it are more in regards to the throttle response, reduced audio noise, and other minor benefits.

I had the NRG grounding kit on my WRX and it did exactly as it said it would. I know everyone feels completely different about these kits, so flame away too!!!

Advanced search really didn't come up with much, forgive me as I'm new to the Mazda Community...

http://www.oneshift.com/carprofile/i...t_full/634.jpg
^^^You guys get the point...

Any feedback, either positive or negative welcomed. :)

Cheers guys.

Complete and utter horseshit.

No one has ever been able to prove that a grounding kit can provide a performance improvement beyond the margin of error in dynamometer testing.

These grounding kits are the equivalent of megabuck power cables for high-end audio equipment. The companies that make them discount the results of third-party testing and expect the end user to believe their snake oil marketing scheme instead.

But hey, if it makes you feel better then I suppose it's money well spent, right?

:hypnotized:

I agree. BS. The best way to really check that they do anything at all would be to put a current measurement meter on each line that is added. If the current reading is near zero, nothing is flowing in the line, and it's only bling. If something is flowing, trace back to the source and check for it's normal ground on the wiring diagram. It's probably loose.

Had the innovation grounding kit on my mazda 3 automatic. Throttle respond did increase noticeably. Haven't got one for my mazdaspeed3 yet.

i use to have em on my MR2 Turbo and it helped a little like 2/32 of a fraction u noticed the lights are brighter then before, less audio noise but heck damm engine was right behind my back couldn't hear shit anyways. but the stock mr2 ground wires were thin, but i noticed the mazdaspeed ones are thicker already stock, i don't think u will gain anything expect a brighter cabin light.

Interesting shit....yet to actually see one of these on a MS3, maybe there's a reason for that? LOL

Cheers All!

Go to any audio forum and search "Big 3" and you'll find plenty of info on this and How-To's. The big 3 consists of: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. The companies that sell these "kits" are just offering glorified grounding kits that would serve the same purpose of changing out (or adding to) 2 of the 3 main current connections on your car.

Bottom line those kits are a waste of money even if your car needs it. Go buy some 4 gauge cable, some connectors and DIY it and your done.

If you notice an improvement its only because your factory grounds need some attention.

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I have Sun Auto grounding cables installed on my MS3, I can't really say if it has made a difference but if you think about it our cars are run by a computer (electrical device) and a solid ground would make for a more stable electrical signal, right? Please correct me if I'm wrong, just a theory.

i bought a used BuddyClub Condenser about 3 years ago for like $50.
It shines a blue light and looks pretty.

It can level out voltage bias between sensors, but on modern newish cars your grounds should be fine. I would double check them if you live in an area where they salt thw roads a lot.

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It will help if your VTEC wire is loose.

Otherwise, yeah, utter waste of money.

i installed innovative grounding kit a long time ago and big 3 and i swear i noticed a nice increase in engine response, it did shot nothing for my engine noise in radio tho, and you can never have too much ground it will always help

Unless you own an 1980s Porsche or other German cars from that era these are useless.

But but... it's got blue lights ... :-(
And it says Race Spec on it...

+ 20 whp for joo!

THink you can tune it to be 25+ HP?

Maybe with the super race kit. Pm me ill sell you one for $2000;)

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I'll take it.. once I get my cheque from my new friend in Nigeria, whom I'm helping to get his money out of the country. He's a PRINCE! I'll PayPal you the cash.

Sorry to revive a dead thread, but from what I've read there is a completely wrong perspective taken on this.....

Grounding Kits are not meant to increase actual horsepower. No matter how thick a cable or gold plated a connector is, it does not do anything in that regard....

What a grounding kit IS meant to do, is reduce electrical resistance (ie: quicken the response of electrically operated components) and free SOME strain from the alternator.

Most grounding kits that are bought are utter horse poo, because they usually tie into some central block or "grounding station" which is the dumbest thing ever thought up, and they run completely excessive LONG cables that completely defeat the purpose. The most efficient way to do this, is to RESEARCH your components and find what and where they ground too. Typically you want to run your grounding wires no longer than 16 inches (and that's pushing it) otherwise you're just defeating the purpose of installing it and now you just have fancy looking wires that make it look fast.

I've run custom made grounding kits on ALL of my vehicles (minus my new Speed3, issues of time to do proper research because of my FC and getting married in March... omg the planning....) and have had phenomenal results as far as response goes.

They are meant to quicken electronic actuators, sensors, and etc... They are not meant to increase boost, add millions or horsepower, and etc... People that notice performance gains from these are not full of it either. Think about this, less strain on your alternator means less parasitic drag correct?? It's like driving with the AC on vs. the AC off (total exaggeration but you get my point!)

I have full intentions of building one for the Second Gen Speed3, if anyone's interested I'll glady post pics and a walk through.

grounding kit
 

thatll be cool

I'm sorry to say, I had to sell my Speed3 :(

Wife having a baby.... nuff said

*EDIT* My RX-7 is still sitting pretty in the garage :) and she promised me she'll never ever ask me to sell it :)

Increasing current capacity or decreasing resistance is 1 thing that could permit more quick current to some demanding device like an electric motor or an audio system. But improving ground will NEVER reduce alternator load. The alternator create power to the electrical system and the electrical system consume it. If you provide a better connection in between, it won't reduce the amount of watts consumed by the device to do the same job. At worst, If it permit more power it may ask for more power on the alternator!!! but it won't be significant. And it will never be less because the connection is better. Power loss in cables is far from being significant in short lenght like in a car.

Grounding kit will change when the car as a grounding issue but adding ''big 3'' wiring can be seen as a OEM ground warranty. Trouble free even if a ground is bad or missing...

For OEM electrical load, healty oem electrical grounds are correct. If not, it is either a conception problem from the manufacturer or a rusting issue.

I solved manny problems on rusted car with bad ground by adding some better ground just because it was easier to add a good new one than figure out which one is bad...
You can also mesure voltage differentiel between alternator ground, battery ground and other device casing and if you see some voltage, it could benefit from adding a good grounding wire but if it say 0.00x you won't gain anything