VVT Fix
 

OK guys, this weekend i am going to be swapping out my vvt, since its going bad. I have 3 days set aside so i can take my time and not rush anything. Here's the list of what i have in hand and what is coming in the mail. I will be updating as everything happens this weekend, eventually im gonna try and get a ligit step by step how-to on here by the time it is done.

this is my first time doing this i have done my research and asked a million questions from those who have already done it.

if you have anything that might help me out in making this any easier than it is or just things to look out for along the way please feel free to comment.

Item's in hand:
VVT Actuator
VVT Bolt w/friction washer
Chain Tensioner
Chain
Cam Alignment Tool and TDC Pin ( thanks @FORZDA 1)
New ITV22 Spark Plugs (needed replacement anyway)
FSM (MUST HAVE)
Torque Values (ill add the link for this later once i find it again)
@chimmike How-to (mike i will be adding to this bro)
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...or-swap-92367/

@troubled81 How-to
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...d-issue-78796/

In Mail, Be Here By Friday:
Crank Bolt w/Two Frictions Washers
Chain Tension Arm and Chain Guide Arm (incase they need to be replaced)
Valve Cover Gasket
Grey RTV

I'm sure there is more, just wanted to get the ball rolling on this to help motivate me to keep researching so this goes smoothly.

comments, trash talk, helpfull tips and anything else you may have to say is all welcome lol

Good luck, Paul and god speed.

Don't forget the Corksport LW Crank Pulley. Might as well. ;)

your gona fuck it up. give up now haha


jk jk GL!

thanks meng

i though about it but cant afford it right now and cant put this off any longer

if i do all MSF members will be the first to know haha

thanks guys

Ok it's a good start to the weekend, picked up the chain guide arms, friction washers and crank bolt from Mazda this morning on the way to pick up some oil, not sure if gonna stick with my penzoil platinum full synthetic or switch to something else. Figured id give a little update before I get down and dirty with this.

And the guys at Mazda where sooo nice they even gave me a beanie to keep my head warm while Im working on my car... What douchers lol

Good shit meng, broski, brozilla, broheem...

I dunno wtf he's waitin for. I think he's stallin' cuz he's skurr'd

ok sooo, after i figured out what oil i was gonna go with we finally got to the house and started breaking the car down.

i went with the Rotella 5w-40 T6 full synthetic
http://i41.tinypic.com/2wofy52.jpg

So first thing is first, a lot of people told me that i would have problems getting the crank bolt off due to how much torque is place on it when the block is put together. pinkcheese told me to drive the car and get the motor warmed up then break the crank bolt first.

so parked the car put it on jack stands took the hood, passenger wheel, coilover, fender liner, put the air gun on the crank bolt, and it came right off with no issues.
http://i42.tinypic.com/i1du92.jpg

after breaking the crank bolt loose, we moved on to the battery box, ECU, SRI and TMIC.
http://i42.tinypic.com/2usx001.jpg

for some retarded reason i couldnt figure out how to unplug the cables from the ECU so, to help those out who might have the same issues, because they are challenged like myself.
http://i42.tinypic.com/rt430o.jpg

then pulled the coolant and power steering reservoirs.
http://i39.tinypic.com/2ic4h0x.jpg

next we pulled the coilpacks and wire harness off, followed by the fuel pump and fuel pump cover.
http://i40.tinypic.com/dfw1uh.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/iz7omd.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/e0ss8z.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/9ru2qs.jpg

after that we drained the oil, and are now letting it sit over night.

oh yea look mazda dealer im wearing my FREE beanie to keep my head warm!!!
http://i44.tinypic.com/23qxc3.jpg

so thats where we are right now, and going to start back up first thing in the morning.

questions, thoughts, opinions, trash talk and comments in general are all welcome as usual.


p.s. watch yo self chimmike! lol

letting it sit overnight? wtf? didn't even pop off the drive belt? that's the easiest fuckin part!

started drink and lost interest got all day tomorrow to work on it... i got vodka rockstar's to drink

yea we should have taken the drive belt off, fuck it, im drinking too!

Little teaser for u

No cam alignment tool?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

well what had happened was...

when we pulled everything we didnt pull the valve cover off till later so, cylinder 4 was TDC, had to fix that, but its good now... pics to come

OK! so, now after some confusion has been taken out of the way i still cant get the car to start, double triple and quadruple checked the cam and crank timing, over and over again, i saw this thread here

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...-engine-17681/

and was curious as to if the VVT not being aligned to the cam properly could cause the car to not start.

The car did turn over once, ran for about 5 seconds then stalled out, it was rough and sounded like crap. any help would be much appreciated

OK so now im not getting any spark, im getting fuel, checked the sensors and they look good, i dont know where else to go from here, anyone have a posible solution

Wish I knew something to help you out man, GL!

damn you paul i thought i was getting lucky for a second :(

lets blow it up and collect insurance on it and you can give me your after market parts and you can get a gen pu......

your a fucking ass!!! and i dont think your girlfriend would alow you do have all these parts on your car...

I'm probably no help, but if VVT timing is off a little, you'll have trouble starting it. Did you follow the manual online? I believe there was something on replacing VVT for my MS6 in the manual.

You may have to go back in and recheck everything.

:scratchchin:

did you mark the position of the old vvt on the cam then put the new one on at that same spot?

rechecking everything right now, this would be the 3rd time verifying.


Yes, as posted above breaking down right now to verify again.

theres a couple threads floating around asking for correct alignment of the vvt to camshaft. ill see if i can find them.

If i remember correctly one stated mazda had told them that the alignment to the camshaft does not matter. Also in the service manual it does not ever tell you how to put it in from scratch it only states to put in on the same way as the old one.

Also i remember one guy crank bolt was not tight enough causing him problems.

Im my experience as a tech. if the vehicle starts once then doesnt. Timing is 99% chance incorrect

Damn man havent heard anything good from someone who has done this on thier own...I have to do mine soon! Good Luck!

dont do it by yourself, and make sure someone is there to help you who KNOWS what is going on.

but for an update... still no go, puling the timing cover off again got one of the boys heading over right now to verify everything and make sure i didnt break anything (i hope not) but we will see.

as far as adjusting the VVT from scratch we still havent found anything about it.

This is what I pulled from my manual for VVT inspection and OCV Timing inspection for what it's worth. Trying to help any way I can.

VARIABLE VALVE TIMING ACTUATOR INSPECTION
A6E222500142W01
L3
Caution
• Variable valve timing actuator can not be disassembled it is a precision unit.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the plug hole plate.
3. Remove the high-tension lead.
4. Remove the oil control valve connector.
5. Remove the ventilation hose.
6. Remove the cylinder head cover.
7. Confirm that notch of the rotor and bump of the
cover at the variable valve timing actuator are
aligned and fitted.
• If the notch and the bump are not aligned,
turn the crankshaft clockwise two rotations.
Verify that the bump and the notch are
aligned.
• If the bump and notch are still not aligned,
replace the variable valve timing actuator.
• If, when turning the crankshaft, there is a
hitting noise from the variable valve timing
actuator each time the cam passes the fully
lifted position, it means that the actuator is not
secured. Replace the actuator.

Variable Valve Timing Control System Operation Inspection
When idling cannot be continued
1. Remove the oil control valve (OCV) and verify that the spool valve is at maximum retard position.
2. If the spool valve is stuck in advance direction, replace the oil control valve (OCV).
3. Connect the oil control valve (OCV).
4. Turn the ignition switch on.
5. Verify that the spool valve is at maximum retard position.
6. If the spool valve is stuck in advance direction, inspect for the following.
• Short circuit in harnesses or connectors between the oil control valve (OCV) and the PCM.
7. Inspect the variable valve timing actuator.

For what it's worth. I'm curious. Did you torque the new crank bolt to yield? If you did, you'll have to replace with another new bolt again after putting your timing cover and crank pulley back on for the second time. You probably already know this.

70-77 lb/ft torque and then 87-92 degrees additional to yield = 1/4 turn beyond the 77lbs initial.

I used the old crank bolt I place until the car was started and running, after I knew the car was running and I'm good condition then we swapped for the new crank bolt.

Come to find, when we torqued the intake cam bolt the vvt moved and locked in place causing the chain to tighten up to much, pulling the intake cam to far towards the exhaust cam keeping the car from starting, took way to long to figure this out. As of right now the car is running and better than ever.

Probably won't be able to load any more pictures up till next weekend cuz I was able to finish homework for this week. Because of this project, as soon as I have time I'm going to edit the first post and turn it into a how to with mass amounts of pictures and as much advice I can give to anyone else who plans on doing this themselves.

However I will post these three photos for now, these will most likely be the most important pictures to see for all who plan on doing this. One shows both cams from the passenger side showing the lobes above cylinder one facing each other at a 45* angle, this is to show that your cams and crank ARE in fact set at top dead center for cylinder one. The second is a close up of the teeth on the driver side of the intake cam, the single thin tooth that's by itself is the key to making sure that your timing is correct for the cam position sensor to register the cams timing is in line with the crank. The other shows the SST (crank hold pin) with the crank in top dead center notice the counter weight of the crank is touching the SST this is key for those who don't understand this concept.

My brain is now fried and don't feel like explaining any more. Anyone who know better than I and feels I has stating any incorrect information please feel free to correct me.

More to come.

Good job..you deserve a break...beers on me!! :147:

Hahaha you wanna PayPal me some funds for this one lol

Jk it was a tough job but now that I have done it and. Broken down everything idk a dozen times trying to figure out what the fuck was wrong I'm sure I could do it again without any issues. I recommend to anyone who has to do this to ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS!!! AND SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH MOFOS!!!! cuz this bish is going to have gazillions of info on this, we took lots of pictures, and anyone who knows me will tell you this will be a very specific and details thread on how to do this from start to finish!

Damn dude great job! It feels good to do something yourself AND to learn all that. That's why I'd want to do it. You've inspired me to do mine. Asssss soon as you make that How To haha

Sent from my motha effin phone

Haha, it's definitely a pain in the ass I'll make sure to post links to all the threads I got all my information from, the shop manual is a HUGE!!! Helping hand especially since the new download for it has the search option, that's another thing you just reminded me to make sure I do is post the sections in the manual you'll have to be in. DON'T LET ME FORGET THAT FUCKERS!!!

Hey......don't forget to upload the references to the sections in the emanual that pertain to the VVT!!!

Sent from my motha effin phone

haha dont get an attitude thats my job here lol

Hey bro you need to post the rest of the pics up...

Yes i do, i just realized that i didnt get them off your camera after reading this... your gonna have to send em to me or something. ill get back to you later with this!

Less drinking more work next time paul shittt....

Glad this thing Is running finally because with the way you drive it was only a matter of time before the block wen't KEEP YOUR FOOT OUT OF IT FOR A BIT!!

no worries brother, i have gone long enough babying this bish im sure another 1k miles aint gonna kill me anymore.

thanks again for all your help logan.