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| MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
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__________________ 2006 Lotus Elise: Toy car 1999 B4000: DD / Parts hauler / SC Project 2007 Mazdaspeed 3: *sold* 2005 Corolla XRS: *sold* |
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| Engineered Tuning ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score This was #4, on the other end of the motor. Another question - how are the ring grooves for the 1st and 2nd compression rings? Rings move freely? Any buildup in there? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score unless there are multiple failed engines in one place that have been examined at the same time with the results and findings of those failures showing a definitive pattern. this is all just speculation like everyother thread. but feel free to keep getting upset at eachother, me too. mazda obviously decided to spend billions and billions designing a engine they know sucks, but at least they engineered it perfectly to throw rods everytime something goes wrong. haha |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score LOL at that, if it were that easy umm everyone would be doing it ? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score a PI head will require machining to the oil passages in the block. I've looked into it. Also requires a standalone. Running a PI head is more expensive and more work than doing a built bottom end. Fuck PI.
__________________ 2006 Lotus Elise: Toy car 1999 B4000: DD / Parts hauler / SC Project 2007 Mazdaspeed 3: *sold* 2005 Corolla XRS: *sold* |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score everyone keeps asking WTF is with part throttle IM not a genius or a person spending hours researching OUTSIDE of whats already posted here But Any idiot who logs and looks at thier logs can see the BIGGEST difference of part throttle is the a/f Ratio ... As displayed in this picture, at part throttle im at like 14.5 a/f r, when i step on it to go WOT it Spikes to 16, How is that a stupidly BLATENT difference between Part throttle and Full, You not full boost but u are in fact boosting when you step on it, realistically u want afr at 11-11.5 during boost period, for a safe level. Someone please explain how this is not Obvious as shit, the transition between not being WOT and going into WOT, sure it settles later, but what about that spike ? AND how come noone has brought up the issue that if fuel is going down the wall and is leaving marks on the side of piston PAST rings, umm our fucking oil has umm fuel in it, and thats the reason lex is suggesting more frequent oil changes, or is there a different reason hes suggesting this ? I shall now ask, if anyone would know exactly how our poor cooling with fuel is reflected by EGT or is it at all reflected by that, I dont think theres a way to determine how well the piston is getting cooled without tearing into the block. the EGT will only tell us how good of a burn the car is getting, rich or lean, but will not directly represent how each part in engine is being treated. VERY interesting find Lex. ![]()
!!! I AM NOT SAYING ITS NOT GOOD TO USE IT, I AM QUOTING MAZDA !!! I went to pay them to change my oil, i provided 6 quarts of Amsoil 5-40w the BEST full synthetic there is, they refused to use it, I was advised they only use conventional now. Do not ask me why, i did not fucking say it !
The True Cause is Over heating piston, warping parts, un even fuel distro. spraying meth into IM is the same as relocating injectors to port injection, instead we will have both stock injection and Ports will flow with nice sexy cooling water/meth, before we even go too far about rebuilding and making engines forged, Who has blown with Meth ? Who has blown with a Richer Setup ? if we richen cars, its going to cool more, still unevenly BUT STILL BETTER. how many of these engines were tuned to a higher AFR ? And for the record there IS a blown Engine Listed on our site here COMPLETELY STOCK, and leaning the Car causes MORE heat which is the Cause of our Fail, so um Leaning car umm bad idea ?
Last edited by Nitr0EngiE; 09-25-2009 at 02:09 AM. Reason: Adding more ... | |||||||
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This isnt like everything we know from other turbo cars, tuning is of very little issue.
My biggest question for this thread, can lex explain how this would tie into the effects of p-t boosting, and why if you stay in vacuum or wot you are safe. | |||
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Trust me! i would also like to tune/mod my car, have done it to all my previous cars without problems, and i work with tuning cars... but when reading all this problem people having when tuning, i wait. The car is still faster than many in this price class.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well I always plan for the worst, hope for the best. I'm gonna change over to Valvoline Oil, because they now have a 300,000mile guarantee on your motor, if you use their oil. Valvoline Engine Guarantee
__________________ Current Fail: 2008 Mazda5 DD/Mazdaspeed5 BT project |
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"We can’t guarantee an engine that is poorly designed, built, or maintenanced." Need I say more? That guarantee has so many outs for them I bet they never have to pay for an engine. Great marketing, but doesnt fool me.
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Its the gas efficient Cruise mode thats killing use most, High a/f r, and little fuel for cooling, the fuel is gonna sit in cyl jsut so slightly longer then say if ur holding 6k rpm in a race, while WOT pretend the fuel never hits cyl wall, I mean it may not at all, it gets compressed and ignited so quickly, but when cruising ....get the point ? Alot of carb engines add Huge Huge spacers between the Carb and the IM, to allow MORE time for the fuel to mix and become a better even mix to Burn. lex, can u come up with any ideas or theories flow charts on how the Gas is flowing inside chamber as our 15 psi of air flies into chamber, is the fuel already sliding down wall, are we losing fuel b4 it even ignites, whats the behavior like at 2k rpm cruising? does it turn into a tornado and swirl around till ignitied, is it forced against cyl wall, how does that work. I like the diagram you posted with ford eco boost pistons, and when u said they "Learned" Who did they learn from do you know or did ford R&D spend more time and money making the ecoboost engine to come up with new piston designs ? Last edited by Nitr0EngiE; 09-25-2009 at 04:50 AM. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Why hasnt anyone just tapped a bung to hold a single 50lb injector into the cold pipe yet and run a injector controller? SDS EM-4: EIC I ran that one on my 240sx with 4-550lb injectors in the rail and 2-550lb injectors before the throttle body. That would help atomize the fuel way before it hits the head. Total investment for 2 injectors and this controller with injector bungs would be about $700.
__________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] sold |
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We still pop with methanol... we'd still pop with additional gasoline injection.
__________________ 2006 Lotus Elise: Toy car 1999 B4000: DD / Parts hauler / SC Project 2007 Mazdaspeed 3: *sold* 2005 Corolla XRS: *sold* | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score nitroengine, mazda changed and said of course we can use Ful syn. oil. the reason why they didnt allow it in dealerships before was b/c they didnt want techs making a mistake putting full syn oil into the Rx8. you arent supposed to put full syn in rotories. but you do for turbo piston engines. so stop using dinno and go full syn. mazda service now carries and uses full syn for the mazdaspeed's
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Last edited by _Toxic_; 09-25-2009 at 08:36 AM. | |
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The piston from thestaplegunkid's picture looks a lot healthier. From the picture, I could pick out 2 possible areas of concern. 1. Nicks in the top compression ring but this can be from debris in the bore after the blow 2. I have to confirm this with a better picture but it looks like there is some carbon buildup on the second compression ring which is kind of odd since it really shouldn't be seeing much in terms of combustion down there. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Can someone perform a rockwell hardness test across the top of the pistion? I feel that the uneven heat cycles will eventually lead to stresses and fatigue within the metal as well as cause uneven thermal expansion that could lead to a failure somewhere along the lines of what Lex is investigating. |
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MAZDA irect injection gasoline engines | Environmental Technology | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It's really too bad we seem to have to do all these 'little' things that add up to a large expense just to potentially have our engines last X miles longer (BSD, CC, Spin-on, PCV fix, etc), and now the flawed design and engineering process has laid itself upon us and there's nothing we can do about it unless we throw a plethora amount of money at it. Some of us baby the shit out of our cars, while others hammer on 'em from the start. It really doesn't seem to matter. The paranoia has slowly inched its way into my head. It really made me take a step back and re-prioritize things. I realized long ago this wasn't the platform to make the power I desired, but it still had so many advantages over an STi or EVO, not to mention I enjoyed the subtleness from others, especially cops. Lex, I for one appreciate the work you've done with this platform. I don't voice much in these threads, but you really have done great work and your efforts should be applauded. For me, I think it's time to move on...
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I'm still a proponent of using thicker weight oils, like 5W-40 or 10W-40. I wouldn't go any thicker than that. We all know this car is evil on oils because of heat and the DI. We've seen 5W-30's sheer down to <20 in 3-4k miles on oil analysis. I like the diesel formulus like Rotella T because they've got lots of detergents in them to handle the heavy soot/carbon that diesels inheritently produce. Is this a bandaid? Of course, but as many have said, there's not much of a choice around this issue with this motor. This motor needs a lot of fucking maintenance.
__________________ 08.5 CWP MS3 - Cobb AP *Stage 2* ATR with a street tune - JBR Power Path Stage II Short Ram Intake - Corksport TMIC - Corksport Downpipe (w/OE midpipe) - PTP HPFP - Stock BPV - TWM SS w/bushings - CP-e RMM - Bilstein Sports w/OE springs - TSW Nurburgring Machined 18x8.5 Wheels - FIREHAWK INDY 500 - SIZE: 235/40R18 - Cobb RSB - Motorcraft XT-M5-QS in the tranny! | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score With DISI isn’t it like a really high pressure mist, triangle spray? When air and fuel are sprayed into the cylinder, the piston moves down and back up to compress the gases. Wouldn’t the fuel pretty much be gas by the time it is compressed and you have your spark? That’s why I am have a hard time with the injector location being our problem. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What if that cone pattern is from cold starts when the fuel doesn't properly atomize from cylinder temps?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Do you think the burns on the piston are just a result of oil coming in through our intake valves and settling on our pistons, causing it to burn? And maybe the oil is starting a mini fire causing misfires or who knows what else. That would explain the different temps on the piston and maybe causing it to become weak. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Talk to socks, he might be willing to part with one of his old pistons. They don't have a lot of miles on 'em though.
__________________ 2006 Lotus Elise: Toy car 1999 B4000: DD / Parts hauler / SC Project 2007 Mazdaspeed 3: *sold* 2005 Corolla XRS: *sold* |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have a dial bore gauge set and mics! but I'm on the other side of the country... lol
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 1. They appear to be detonation marks, and they are on approx 2/3 of the ring, but I can't be certain of the rings original orientation as per intake/exhaust valves. I checked the other pistons and #3 had fewer of these marks, in the same pattern though, and # 2 had none. 2. No carbon build up on the rings 3. Rings move freely in ring grooves 4. Ring grooves are free of any debris or buildup |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Any det marks on the second compression ring or just the first? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Lex, comments on post #166 ? |
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| The Truth Hurts ![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Like I said earlier you guys are looking way too deep into this and are over looking the obvious as to why these engines blow. Lex, even though the effort is appreciated by many including myself you're wasting your time. You're looking at the bottom of the ocean for answers when the answers right underneath the surface. I'll organize my thread about why these engines blow so that it's easily laid out so that it's easy to read and understand why these engines blow. Even though I have a feeling some people will still refuse to believe and still look nowhere. Bottom line there's nothing wrong with these engines; but you guys are looking so deep into it as if you really want to prove that there's something wrong with the engine out of the factory- but there's nothing. I wouldn't be surprised if LEX was trying to get some recognition if he thinks he's going to figure it out- believe me people it's not about helping out the community- there's always a personal stake. A lot of engine failure is contributed by the end user and common mistakes and IMPROPER HANDLING/MAINTENANCE of the engine (and I'll tell you what exactly is causing the failure and why when I make my thread). Like I said earlier you guys are looking way too deep into this and are over looking the obvious as to why these engines blow. Lex, even though the effort is appreciated by many including myself you're wasting your time. You're looking at the bottom of the ocean for answers when the answers right underneath the surface. I'll organize my thread about why these engines blow so that it's easily laid out so that it's easy to read and understand why these engines blow. Even though I have a feeling some people will still refuse to believe and still look nowhere. Bottom line there's nothing wrong with these engines; but you guys are looking so deep into it as if you really want to prove that there's something wrong with the engine out of the factory- but there's nothing. I wouldn't be surprised if LEX was trying to get some recognition if he thinks he's going to figure it out- believe me people it's not about helping out the community- there's always a personal stake. A lot of engine failure is contributed by the end user and common mistakes and IMPROPER HANDLING/MAINTENANCE of the engine (and I'll tell you what exactly is causing the failure and why when I make my thread).
__________________ Trickytwelveinch has elite car skillz - opt_ms3. Last edited by trickytwelveinch; 09-25-2009 at 11:19 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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Contributed to the end user, like driving their car? I don't get it, people build fast cars and then go around preaching that they're supposed to be babied? Fuck that, I've owned quite a few quick cars. I beat the piss out of all of them(300zx, turbo civic, 350z, speed3). If driving it hard is the reason it is blowing up, then it's a POS motor. As far as maintenance goes, what is there to it? Routine oil changes usually get done in the tuner community, other than that, what is there to maintain? These cars are practically new. We're not talking about 15 year old DSMs here. My car has less than 30k miles on it. It should require ZERO maintenance other than oil changes. While there are plenty of dumb owners, I am sure, but that should not count towards the percentage of failures seen here. There is one (or more) design flaw that is introducing this...It COULD be something simple(like a shitty PCV), or it could be something major, like the fundamental theory of Direct Injection. EDIT: BTW, my mazdaspeed3 sees 5.5-6k RPMs EVERY day | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score trickytwelveinch "I'll organize my thread about why these engines blow so that it's easily laid out so that it's easy to read and understand why these engines blow." Ok there are a LOT of people waiting to read your thread, when can we expect it ?
__________________ 2013 Mazdaspeed3 Gen2 Mods: Cobb SRI, Tip, Turbosmart BPV, Cobb AP, Cp-e DP, CPE HPFP, CPE RMM, PTP Kicker Mount |
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| The almost defininitive reason for why our motors - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 / Mazda Atenza Forum | This thread | Refback | 03-05-2010 11:36 PM | |
| Mazda6 / Atenza > The almost defininitive reason for why our motors | This thread | Refback | 09-28-2009 07:08 AM | |
| The almost defininitive reason for why our motors - Mazda6 / Atenza | This thread | Refback | 09-28-2009 06:54 AM | |
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