What the heck, man?

[aaronc7]

sounds good.

I would change AbsTPS to Mazda PIDs->spark->Knock Retard but other than that yeah

[sleeper3]

schweet. I'll log it tonight.

[sleeper3]

oh wait, I still have those crappy platinum plugs in there. Think it will hurt anything? I just need them to last until PG sends me the ones I ordered.

[aaronc7]

looks like you're stuck with the platinum plugs for about 3 more months then, lol jk

Eh it should be OK. I ran cheapo autozone plugs (probably the same ones lol) for awhile while in a similar situation as you and they seemed to work OK in that timeframe. If anything you might get a little KR with these or something...but not won't be dangerous or anything.

[sleeper3]

lol yeah I know PG are not the fastest shippers in the world... They do take pretty good care of me though.

yeah I'm thinking as long as I don't go to the track or anything, I should be fine. I've been trying to stay out of boost so that I don't get the chambers too terribly hot, as I am sure that is the major concern. Anyway, I'll log the pull and post it later.

[08_ms3_gt]

Originally Posted by sleeper3 See, this is why I have a hard time believing anything on these forums. Everyone is peddling what they think is true as absolute fact. Hard to figure out what in fact is true and what is BS. Anyway, I can do another log and include knock retard. I've been watching it and I never see it do anything. Also, how accurate do you think the factory O2 sensor is? I mean, I'm 3 ticks higher than people, and yet, no problems? Seems fishy to me. I think my next move will be for a downpipe, wide band 02 and exhaust gas temp sensors... that way I can more closely and accurately monitor this stuff.

sorry for my error. seeing as i've studied control systems, i'm not sure why i got open and closed loop confused. either way, i'm not thrilled that the ECU is changing which control scheme it uses for fueling in the middle of full-throttle driving.

[sleeper3]

ok 2 charts because Knock Retard was bad in one and good in the other. Anyone know what could be going on here?
At least air/fuel looks better...

[08_ms3_gt]

the KR in your second log seems perfectly OK.

the KR in your first log, however, is bad news. i had that level of KR using an AP map that was giving too much boost. immediately switched.

[sleeper3]

well, it seems strange that the boost spike is 1.5 or so psi higher in the first one, but the knock retard doesn't start up until boost is back at 15.7 or so psi.

[08_ms3_gt]

Originally Posted by sleeper3 well, it seems strange that the boost spike is 1.5 or so psi higher in the first one, but the knock retard doesn't start up until boost is back at 15.7 or so psi.

your issue may very well be different from mine. you're not tuned, are you?

as far as i know, common causes of knock are:
1) improper tuning
2) loose boost tubing
3) spark plugs (probably doesn't apply to you)

getting tuned may help if it gets your AFR's lower, but i really don't think it's the best solution.

checking your boost tubing may help - the inlet connection to the turbo is a common issue.

colder spark plugs may help, but again you're probably okay.

last resort would be w/m. w/m should eliminate KR although it might be masking an 'issue' that you have.

[sleeper3]

1. no, I'm not tuned
2. I have autolite plugs in which are the cheapest plugs in the world
3. I will check my tubing
4. Why colder plugs?
5. what the heck is w/m?

[08_ms3_gt]

Originally Posted by sleeper3 1. no, I'm not tuned 2. I have autolite plugs in which are the cheapest plugs in the world 3. I will check my tubing 4. Why colder plugs? 5. what the heck is w/m?

1) the plugs may be causing a problem - IIRC you gapped them properly, right?
2) i've done this multiple times. i should do it again. the stock hose clamps suck.
3) colder plugs are useful because, as you increase the performance of a turbo car, you increase the potential for detonation. extra boost and higher temperatures both contribute to increasing KR/detonation. this is a common recommendation for situations where boost is increased - since you have not increased your boost, this may not apply.
4) w/m is water/methanol injection. it works by spraying a w/m solution into the intake manifold when under boost. as far as i know, the methanol increases the octane of the fuel, and, as the spray evaporates into the inlet stream, the heat of evaporation takes energy from the inlet stream and cools it. so, in a nutshell, it gives you extra octane and lower air temperatures, both of which reduce the chances of KR.

[sleeper3]

1. yes I gapped them properly, and I have a set of densos in my glove box that I will install tomorrow
2. I have the cobb inlet. I probably still need to check it though
3. to me, it seems like colder plugs will be less efficient, unless the stock plugs were overkill for the car. colder plugs = less spark = maybe not a 100% burn.
4. oh I know what meth injection is, I just didn't know what your abbreviation meant.

[Frequentflyer]

Originally Posted by sleeper3 1. yes I gapped them properly, and I have a set of densos in my glove box that I will install tomorrow 2. I have the cobb inlet. I probably still need to check it though 3. to me, it seems like colder plugs will be less efficient, unless the stock plugs were overkill for the car. colder plugs = less spark = maybe not a 100% burn. 4. oh I know what meth injection is, I just didn't know what your abbreviation meant.

You really have the wrong idea for what a "colder" plug is. It has nothing to do with the amount of spark the plug puts out. A colder plug simply has less insulator exposed in the cylinder, which allows the plug to dissipate heat quicker because more of the plug is outside of the head. They put out the same amount of spark, but the colder plug stays cooler, in turn resisting pre-ignition or knock. This is beneficial in motors that run high cylinder pressures/temps (turbo/supercharged motors). Here's a pic below:



I'd honestly get rid of the Autolite Platinums. Platinum plugs are usually not recommended in turbo/supercharged motors because the platinum electrode stays hotter in the cylinder, which allows them to last longer by burning off contaminants, but not good for turbocharged engines. The best plugs for FI are either the standard copper plugs or iridiums.

The only real disadvantage to colder plugs is that they can foul more quickly if they're running "too cold" because they're not running hot enough to burn off contaminants (the exact opposite of the platinum plugs).

I've been using ITV24's (two steps colder) in my car for 6 months now with no issues. The car runs great. I had meant to order the ITV22's (one step colder), but I had accidentally ordered the wrong ones and it was too late to cancel the order, so I have been running these instead.

[sleeper3]

Originally Posted by Frequentflyer You really have the wrong idea for what a "colder" plug is. It has nothing to do with the amount of spark the plug puts out. A colder plug simply has less insulator exposed in the cylinder, which allows the plug to dissipate heat quicker because more of the plug is outside of the head. They put out the same amount of spark, but the colder plug stays cooler, in turn resisting pre-ignition or knock. This is beneficial in motors that run high cylinder pressures/temps (turbo/supercharged motors). Here's a pic below: I'd honestly get rid of the Autolite Platinums. Platinum plugs are usually not recommended in turbo/supercharged motors because the platinum electrode stays hotter in the cylinder, which allows them to last longer by burning off contaminants, but not good for turbocharged engines. The best plugs for FI are either the standard copper plugs or iridiums. The only real disadvantage to colder plugs is that they can foul more quickly if they're running "too cold" because they're not running hot enough to burn off contaminants (the exact opposite of the platinum plugs). I've been using ITV24's (two steps colder) in my car for 6 months now with no issues. The car runs great. I had meant to order the ITV22's (one step colder), but I had accidentally ordered the wrong ones and it was too late to cancel the order, so I have been running these instead.

that is interesting. I guess the plugs that are designed to run colder are better than just lessening the gap (which will also create a cooler condition due to less spark). Anyway, I swapped the plugs this weekend, and all seems ok. I had a little missfire in 4th gear, but I've been trying to duplicate it, and the car has been rock solid. I think the issue might be gone! I think I will try to run another log with the same parameters and see if knock retard is still going as crazy now that I have some nicer plugs in there. I'll post it up when I get it done.