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What Mods Define " Stage 2 " Hey fella's just recently bought a 2008 Cosmic Blue MS3, and its a blast to drive ! Im really happy with my purchase. Ive done some reading, and I keep seeing I need to get a HPFP for my car, if I want to run stage 2 power. Ive seen some video's on youtube of MS3's on the dyno @ Cobb, and the range of mods compared to power gains, are within a general ballpark which caught my eye. I think I read only 2 cars had HPFP's on there cars. What Mods actually define stage 2 ???? I understand that upgrading a fuel pump is important when running big power, but I wanted to hear from you guys if the power mods I wanna do really need a new fuel pump. Cobb SRI Cobb TIP TBE - catted DP Cobb AP hoping for about 280-290 whp/wtq ball park... Thanks Fella's ! thanks for your time boys |
more than what you got son! |
maybe, but monitor fuel pressures with AP |
2 cars? fuel pumps are sold out... Monitor your fuel pressure.. If it drops under 1600psi under load,you need a fuel pump. |
Yes get a hpfp. Once your dp let's more flow you'll need the fuel to keep up. I don't know if anyone really considers their car stage one or two or three etc but Cobb lists what you should have to run their ots maps good luck and make sure you research everything plenty before you do it |
First off, in normal MSF fashion, I suggest you donate ;) I will recommend searching as well, but I won't berate you for it like others will lol. "site:mazdaspeedforums.org <enter search terms>" in Google is a good way to do it. Anyways, for those mods, you will need a more capable fuel pump to run with those mods. CP-e, KMD, and Autotech are the top picks around here. Reason being is because with the SRI, TIP, and DP (w/ high flow cat), you'll be able to use the AP (after obtaining AccessTUNER software from COBB) to raise boost beyond stock levels. Stage 2, as defined by COBB and universally accepted here, is deleting one or more catalytic converters and/or replacing one of them with a high-flow cat. Less exhaust restrictions = higher boost can be attained = fueling demands go way up. You could run a Stage2 safe mode map, which limits boost to less-than-stock levels, to keep fuel pump failures at bay for a little, but if you're going to do all of those mods, you might as well get an upgraded fuel pump as a failsafe of sorts, to protect your car as you mod. Ensure the pump will hold up with mods before starting mods. That's my 2 cents ;) |
INTEGRATED ENGINEERING Forged VW/AUDI Connecting Rods, JE, Wiseco, Mahle, Ferrea, Supertech, ARP They have KMD's in stock, mine will be here tomorrow. |
If the car is so fast you piss your pants - stage 1 If the car is so fast you shit in your pants - stage 2 |
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Originally Posted by silvapain If the car is so fast you piss your pants - stage 1 If the car is so fast you shit in your pants - stage 2 I guess if you do both STAGE 3 ? |
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Won't comment on the "stage #" stuff. Does not matter to me. But let me say that on a gen 1 car, I have 1700 psi or more under load on stock pump running a catless downpipe and racepipe on a tune with load limits allowing boost of 18-19 psi with taper to 17 at 6,000 rpm. I don't know what "stage" that is. I do know that the car runs very well and scoots pretty well. 40-120 mph is 12.5 seconds. That's ONLY 5-6 full seconds quicker than stock. Even without a tune, a catless dp/rp raised boost to 18 with spikes (I did not like) to 21 when coming up on boost. HT tune fixed the spikes and raised boost and load limits sensibly while staying safe. Every one of these cars is different and generalizing can get you into trouble. You do need to monitor. If fp drops below 1600 under load, get an upgraded pump. I have not needed to do that. The key is to monitor and be sensible with your selection of mods and tuning objectives. AP will give you more tuning versatility than my HT tune has, but just be careful. Mistakes in tuning can be very costly. |
I really need to get an AP so I can log fuel pressure. I thought I felt some surging on the top of 5th gear pull over the weekend, but not sure what it is really or if my bov is leaking boost since it's not set tight enough. Mods are only Cobb TIP/SRI so I'd think the stock pump could keep up but never know. |
Yeah I totally agree with MSMS3 regarding the stock fuel pump. If it's holding 1600+psi it's doing just fine. Cobb apparently highly recommends a fuel pimp upgrade to run "stage 2" but I've ran "stage 2" on the stock fuel pump no problems whatsoever 1600+psi holding 17-18.5 boost with 20-21 psi spikes. |
for my own head... what is stock boost limited to? can you raise or lower it with the BPV or do you need to get into the computer? |
You faggots got it all wrong. OP needs a BOV. Preferably a Greddy, because we all know those are the loudest. |
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Please search and then come back if you have a question you can't find the answer. BPV change does NOT raise boost unless there is something wrong with yours and most are fine. And there are ways to raise boost, both safely and dangerously (zoom, zoom boom), that do not requre your to "get into the computer." Increased air flow and exhaust flow can raise boost on stock tune. Search and ye shal find. And/or you can reprogram the ECU (tune) for higher boost and load targets, which can also be done either safely or dangerously. |
you need a fresh air intake, first and foremost. |
Get internals with a dp You won't have an issue making that kind of power with stage two with a good tune --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=44.739855,-93.107932 -Jake |
U need brake pads, shifter bushings, transmission mount, mbc, itv22, and run 100 octane.. Thats special stage 2:usa1: |
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