Who Has A Built Motor? Need Impressions

[ms3guy22]

since were sharing destruction:


This the one that pretty. you can see the rods acutally hanging there. I'll see if the piston adhered to the head.

[JimmyMac]

Would you guys minding posting these pics in the Blown Engine thread? It would be much appreciated. Thanks!

[builthatch]

Originally Posted by Lex you know - maybe a nice strong ARP set of rod bolts could go a long way as a simple upgrade to these motors.

possibly. undersquare engines can put a decent amount of stress on the rod bolts (and rods) when you add boost and revs. i don't know what the stock rod bolt size is though.

undersquare is something i'm all too used to. i played with honda d-series engines for a decade before getting this mazda. a built, balanced, well-tuned high compression d16 setup with a HUGE overlap cam with light weight components would still usually only make power to 8k max. that isn't very high compared to what people think honda engines rev to, but we had no choice because of the long stroke. the cool thing is it made the torque curve for the little 1.6 really nice, especially compared to all of the more popular dohc vtec engines.

[mrlilguy157]

snapped in the same spot as mine, same cyl

[ztuner]

you guys are getting me nervous with these pics. Whats the current price of a new block and crank ? Are these even available as spares from MAZDA ?

Damnit

Harry

[Lex]

The middle cylinders are more prone to detonation due to the intake manifold design from what I've read. Specifically #2.

[CaptainKRM]

Originally Posted by ztuner you guys are getting me nervous with these pics. Whats the current price of a new block and crank ? Are these even available as spares from MAZDA ? Damnit Harry

they are stocked nationally and overseas in distribution warehouses. this is where we purchase them for our $5000 forged shortblocks. people want to know why we charge that much for them, there is a good portion of the answer - new block, new crank, etc

Originally Posted by Lex you know - maybe a nice strong ARP set of rod bolts could go a long way as a simple upgrade to these motors.

i guarantee you thats not going to be sufficient in and of itself. i've seen more than enough motors (until seeing mark's) that have intact cap sections still spinning freely on perfectly good bearings on the crank while the rod is twisted up like a trash bag tie.

Originally Posted by StreetUnitMark my rod cap separated from the rod itself lol. Did you see the pics?

i had not until now - looks rough sir!

[MarkyMark]

Originally Posted by ztuner you guys are getting me nervous with these pics. Whats the current price of a new block and crank ? Are these even available as spares from MAZDA ? Damnit Harry

i have 2 new blocks and 3 new cranks in stock ready to ship. They are on the website to order as well.

[phailerider]

is there a specific torque spec for the knock sensor? what if it was ovetightened or not tightened enough or something?

could that be causing crazy knock readings even when freereving?

[CaptainKRM]

hard to explain without showing you in person, buts thats not really possible honestly.

[BLKSp33d3]

damn mark my enginge looked the same as yours in my black speed

[J-villa]

hope my engine doesn't blow...

atleast until ALOT more people build them up.

Great thread though.

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by Haltech Ok, im looking at doing the motor in my car, so im looking for some information: Who HAS a finished, complete, built motor and has been driving it? its been awfully quiet in regards to these people... 1) What pistons are you using? 2) Compression ratio? 3) noticeable piston slap at idle? 4) Balanced & Blue Printed? 5) Port Match To Head? 6) P/P 5 angle on the heads? Lets hear it. Thanks

1. JE custom units
2. 8.5 to 1 (if your going to boost high on a bigger turbo, this is a must)
3. Nothing that I can hear but the exhaust is to loud to hear much of anything and the injectors with the noise cover off gets really loud on cold mornings.
4. Balanced is a must, BP'ed...... I will never tell
5. Not yet, working on larger valves and checking the seats to make sure that a + 2 is going to work
6. Radius vavle jobs only with our ported heads. $14 per hole x 16, you do the math.

Couldn't be happier with the results as of right now. I have to get the big turbo kits started to I can start to push the motor with the new head. One thing that I can address for you, get the proper books to do the timing chain and there are 2 tools your going to need. We need bigger vavles in one head for a reason .

[ptperformance]

Now you have to ask us about crank straps and HardBlock filled unit. These little gems should allow way more block stability.

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by palerider is there a specific torque spec for the knock sensor? what if it was ovetightened or not tightened enough or something? could that be causing crazy knock readings even when freereving?

Yes, they have to be tq'ed to inch lbs and if they are off just the littlest of tq, they can read funny or way off.

[buddhabum]

I'm on the tail end of my build from StreetUnit so I will have some data soon. The engine has been built and sealed and we're just waiting for my turbo/downpipe from Carlos at CPBoost.

[Funky]

subing

[y2kc0wb0y]

Bump; Robbie has a built engine now.

[crazyitalian041]

Bump, i agree with the scottster. I haz built motor now.

[socks]

Im still waitin on my parts to build mine.