Oh, so that's about 118k miles lol.


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2007 Mazdaspeed 3, 117,159 Miles on last fill-up

Replaced:
-Driver side inner & outer axle boot
-2x ignition coils replaced by dealer
-another 2x ignition coils replaced by me after warranty
-coolant reservoir replaced at 100k
-rubber boot where the trans linkage is at.
-EGR Valve Clean
-Throttle Bottle Cleaned
-Passenger & Driver Engine Mounts Ripped

Stock:
-Turbo (no smoke)
-Rotors
-rims
-Clutch

07 with 82k nothing replaced yet other than going one step colder on plugs and junk like that. no smokey turbo or anything. trannys great along with motor. runs strong and quiet

Now at 109,000 miles with no issues since @60,000 miles; I only need it to last another 40,000 miles...

As long as you do your regular maintenance, up keep on your car and take care of it I don't see any why any car shouldn't last for a long time or many many miles :) A little off topic, but I know a guy with a Evo 8 that is getting ready to push 300k miles in the next month or so and he is not stock, but takes really good care of his car. Car looks like it has less than 50k on it by its condition! Keep on driving guys ;)

Thanks,
Dallin

I agree 100% All of my cars have over 100k on them and I wouldn't hesitate taking any of them on a 2k mile trip.

Did you ever have a leak or see anti freeze on the block with the hood up?

Just rolled over 130,000km's so thats in the 80,000 miles range.

For some reason, I'm expecting something catastrophic soon.

no haven't seen anything like that but i did notice my freaking reservoir is showing some hairline cracks on the edges again which is bugging the crap out of me. looking into aluminum one, here is how my engine looks like now.

117k miles as of today.

Replaced:
Two driver side mounts - first one under the recall, and later the replacement filed. Bolt backed out.
Front rotors and pads
VVT actuator - warranty
Power steering rack - warranty for a clicking sound
All four shocks
Serpentine belt, belt tensioner (twice) and idler pulley
Wipers
Countless number of tires
Brake/clutch fluid flush (once), power steering fluid flush (once), coolant flush (once), tranny fluid flush (twice) etc.
MS3 CAI - airfilter (once)
EGR - cleaned twice

Had turbo smoking issues about 3 yrs ago. Happened a couple of times. But resolved on its own - haven't had any issue since. Currently alternating between 10W30 or 10W40 Rotella (usually). But sometimes Quakie or Pennzoil - depending on whatever is cheaper. But I stick to synthy oils mostly, unless I am topping off.

Cant really think of anything else. BTW my timing chain/tensioner might be on their way out. Have been having a start-up rattle for about an year now, last a second or two on cold start-up. Can feel the chain slop through the oil fill hole. Two weeks ago once while starting - it fired up and shut off immediately. Had to crank again for a full 10-15 seconds to start it back up. Normally it starts in a split second. And rough idle a couple of times - could be bad gas. But could also be bad timing due to loose chain.

Overall been a very reliable and solid car for me.

Ren.

82k of fun so far

I recommend purchasing ground unicorn horn in bulk at Costco...:jester:

How is 'original engine' defined? Stock block in tact, despite a #3 rod that got a little bent out of shape @26psi (I told the bitch to get out of the oven, but thankfully, she ignored my ass)... 42,500 on my MS6.

120,000 miles
2006 mazda speed6
28k TSB turbo and clutch..
thats it !! stock VVT / chain.. Rotella T6 with spin on filter since 30k.
Burns NO oil.. do oil changes @3-4k

48,000 miles
2008 mazdaspeed 3
only thing i had replaced was vvt at 38k which is when i brought the car i am the 2nd owner.
other then that a few bolt ons with a tune and it runs prefect

Now at 115,000 miles with no issues since @60,000 miles
Uses no oil between 7,500 changes of Mobil 1 5W-30

How is your oil's fuel dilution though?


Tapatalk LIKE A BOSS!

156,000 and still going. Eats about 1/2 quart of oil every 5,000miles. Mobil 1 and spin on truck filter (B2300 IIRC). I drive a LOT of highway miles, so keep that in mind. Oh, and 2007 MS3.

I have Blackstone Labs perform a UOA at every oil change. At 69,000 miles I switched from a 5,000 mile
OCI to a 7,500 mile OCI. In the five subsequent UOAs the fuel dilution was measured at below 0.5% three times and as a "trace" two times.

30,480 2008 ms3 no smoke

97,500 '07 MS3

Original Turbo (light smoke at start, none at idle)
Original Clutch
Replaced all motor mounts
Replaced brakes/rotors
CAI and Hypertech tune only

So far so good, but she's got some things that need work: The front swaybar bushings are shot and I need to schedule getting it done. She needs new struts up front, I'll probably do all. I have an exhaust leak somewhere to track down, just enough to be loud and annoying but not constant.

75,xxx 09 MS3

-OEM struts blown at ~35k, replaced with koni yellows which are also now blown lol
-left front axle went at ~50k, replaced with OEM
-stock turbo went at about 70k, replaced with gtx3071r
-windshield washer motor went at about 65k, yet to replace lmao


reasons:
-the roads are horrible in SW PA and i drive like an asshole haha
-left axle/cv joint is the only one i think i can say just failed
-turbo was maxed for a long time, was waiting for it to fail
-windshield washer motor was fucked up by mazda doing the ground wire recall and i'm in the process of fighting them to pay for a new one.

think that's everything so far...not too bad really, to me at least haha

07MS3
126K

Stock tune until 68K.... COBB protune at 71K, 90K (TP and TIP,intake) 100K (DP and the 9 yards)

Replaced:
-3 stock struts (80K) with more stock dogshit struts (110K) replaced those with Bils/Eibachs
-coolant res at 115K (shit was dark yellow)
-rotors and pads at 100K
-pmm with another pmm and then to a JBR
-rmm with inserts then to a CP-e rmm
-belt at 72K
-battery at 100K
-plugs... 6 or 7 sets
-2 coilpacks at 78K
-waterpump at 82K for giggles
-coolant changes every yr
-thermostat at 118K
-OCI's at 2800-3000
-second stock headunit needs to be replaced due to clipping (not sure what the issue is).
-driver side axle rebuilt at 122K
-still on stock clutch/FOMOCO fluid at 70K
-stock motor

nothing else that I can think of... Will edit if I remember

06 MS6 - 175,000km (Stock)

99 Civic - Around 238-240,000km (has an intake)

Both run fine with small oil consumption.

Just Surpassed 130,000 In My Original Motor Still Only Replaced Spark Plugs, Battery, And Injectors. The InjectIt's Went At A Little Over 105. Needless To Say I'm Happy

07 MS3 156,000 miles.
Blown struts @120K, replaced with Koni yellows
Original clutch
Original motor
Mobil 1 5W-30 oil changes every 5-7.5K
New battery
New belt @ 120K
New thermostat (PITA)
New plugs @ 100K NGK Iridium
Injen CAI, Turbosmart BOV, JBR shift plate, spin on filter

Hit 90k yesterday, no known problems, havent had to replace anything yet other than battery, spark plugs and other basics. Probably going to replace struts soon though do have a bad knock sensor thats like the worst problem

147800 on a 07 MS3
Dont sure about anything that has been done to it
but come next winter hopefully rebuild the motor :)

Great gas mileage ? You'll have to let me know your secret. I get 23 mostly highway. That's not what I would call great at all.

129,000 first engine, 2006 MS6 owned since 8K. Former stealer demo car so probably tortured for the first 8K.

Stock turbo swapped at 20K - smoking.
Electronic key sensor replaced at 90K.
Stock plugs replaced around 100K - lol.
VVT went at 110K.
Timing replaced at 123K.
Pivot shaft seal replaced at 128K.
PCV valve replaced at 129K.
PMM has been creaking for about 30K, stealer had no idea what it was so I looked in here - replacement ordered today.
Third battery.
I think I'm halfway through my 4th set of tires. Stock tires were worse than useless in NE winter, all summers are not much good in snow, even with AWD :-)
The steering develops a knocking feeling over time. The stealer where I bought the car loosened and re torqued everything underneath but it still did it so I checked another stealer, turns out that it was the grease in the steering column that had been re-distributed. The fix is to loosen the steering clamp and pump the wheel in and out ten times then up and down ten times, tighten the clamp back up and it's good to go for a few thousand miles.

My wife has a 2007 CX7 with 135K.
Blown motor around 120K due to motor consuming 4 quarts of oil between changes. Timing failed and grenaded the motor. Stealer wanted $10K to repair it, I stamped my feet and shouted, took it up two levels at Mazda to VP level and they reduced it to $3800. Shortly after that my timing was repaired by them for $1800. They had their money's worth out of us. Two cars, dealer serviced to 100K.
The best part, when I balked at $10K they offered to let us trade it in for another car....yes, they were serious.

I love my car but with all the issues and the lack of design/build quality I probably won't get another Mazda. Too many headaches. I mean, who puts a 50K service part behind the intake manifold (PCV) or hides one of the pivot shaft cover bolts under an engine mount ?

133, xxx on motor. Stock k04. Doesn't burn any oil. Change every 3K.

117000 miles on original motor and turbo. Bought it with 96000 on it and have had no problems.

That rattle is your VVT actuator. Get it fixed before the rattling pin flies out into your timing gear and shit cans your head. I had to get mine done at 120k. Dealer did the timing while in there. $$$$$$$

@Ren;

Take off your inter cooler, undo the coil packs and pull the valve cover. The VVT actuator is the sprocket on the intake camshaft on the passenger side of the motor. There's a little round fitting on the outside of the sprocket. If it looks like its deformed then you need a new one. The fitting is about half inch diameter. If its deformed it will look like its eaten away on one side. Get it fixed or you "could" be looking at a new head, valves, pistons, rods etc. I drove mine like that for six months and crossed my fingers every day until it was repaired. I have attached a picture. The VVT actuator is on the left in the pic and the fitting will be between two of those rectangular lugs you can see. Oh, and the bolts that hold on the valve cover, make sure you know which ones came from which hole. I think some are longer than others and you do not want to shear one.

I am glad to see so many cars over 100k and having no major problems, I have a 07ms3 with 83,xxx and no major issues

vvt replaced at 58k under warranty
stock k04 no smoke
stock engine burns no oil, changed every 3k
I do have cp-e intake and cobb ti and ap stage 1
stock rmm replaced with sure rmm at 58k
eibach pro-kit at 60k (reason for needing struts and shocks haha)
new tires at 78k
coolant flush at 75k

I do need struts and shock all blown hopefully getting koni yellos soon
driver and passenger side engine mounts are blown i need to replace soon
and i need to change trans fluid soon

overall I am very happy with this car hopefully it will last me a few more years

114xxx still runnin like a champ

I had 103k on my motor, currently rebuilding, and the block was running great. Original turbo and all. Only thing that was ever replaced on my car was the rear main diff seal

Re: Who has the most miles on their original engine?
 

Knock on wood but almost 50k with absolutely no repairs at all just maintenance.

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about to roll 120k on a PU engine. No issues. Just upgrades.

How are the other bits holding up - bushings etc?

It mostly highway miles but we also autox it every month. Bushings are actually holding up decently. Doing a once over today since we have a race this weekend. Even with running h&r springs my stock shocks lasted up till about last month. One rear is blown. And I also noticed a random click/ clunk on the passenger front corner. Doesn't sound like a cv but i'll figure it out today. Im hoping the axle and transmission are good. Could be just some bushing cracking and letting go. If it is im blaming you @Lex;
Heads up.
Took a log yesterday with the front mount yesterday. Sending it your way @Lex; for an update next week.

Excellent!

The click might be the upper strut mount. They are noisy in these cars.

On another note, has the extra power from the BNR helped you in competition?