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 Old 03-03-2009, 09:39 AM   #1
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Default windage tray vs baffle

i want pure information, no bullshit please.
i want the vendors to take a back seat to this thread (i expect full cooperation) and i want people's opinions and knowledge based around these two similar products.

currently, ptp offers a windage tray. f2 offers a baffle, as does carpe diem (check the pg section if you don't know what i'm talking about)

what are the advantages of each?
what are the disadvantages, if any of said applications?
what have you used in the past?

please inform me, the uninformed
:phillyb:
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 Old 03-03-2009, 09:50 AM   #2
 
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i personally think ptp's looks the nicest and its competitively priced!!!

plus wassup has gotten REALLY annoying...
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 Old 03-03-2009, 10:04 AM   #3
 
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I haven't used either so can only give a theoretical view on them...

From my understanding, a windage tray is intended to prevent or significantly limit the amount of oil that is caught up in the air vortexes created by the crankshaft spinning at high rpm. A baffle is intended to prevent or significantly limit the oil from 'sloshing' back and forth in the pan, when under high g forces when cornering; the oil gets flung to the opposite end of the oil pan away from the pump and temporarily starves the engine of oil.

I would think the two can be and normally are combined into a single peice, but I don't have any first hand knowledge of the products offered for our engines.
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 Old 03-03-2009, 10:06 AM   #4
 
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I'm switching to PTPs from the F2. A baffel is supposed to keep oil near the pick up during a hard turn, however as PTP stated, it would not be able to do this during a long sweeping turn. A windage tray is supposed to stop oil from splattering around. John's will do this, and since it has a good sized edge all the way around, it should prevent oil from climbing up the walls during almost any type of turn, thus keeping the oil where its supposed to be. Just my $0.02.
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 Old 03-03-2009, 10:09 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by phillyb View Post
i want pure information, no bullshit please.
i want the vendors to take a back seat to this thread (i expect full cooperation) and i want people's opinions and knowledge based around these two similar products.

currently, ptp offers a windage tray. f2 offers a baffle, as does carpe diem (check the pg section if you don't know what i'm talking about)

what are the advantages of each?
what are the disadvantages, if any of said applications?
what have you used in the past?

please inform me, the uninformed
:phillyb:
The F2 and Carpe Diem look nearly the same except the F2 has rivets and the Carpe has screws and nuts. I don't care for either of those fasteners because of the 1 in a million chance that a 10 cent piece of metal could grenade my $5000 engine. If I had to chose though, I would take the F2 since rivets are probably less likely to come lose.

Baffles are very good in that they serve to keep as much oil as possible around the oil pickup, they are not especially designed to keep oil in the rest of the pan. These are mainly designed to be cheap effective oil control.

The Ptp design is the leading design so far although it has some shortcomings Once the oil is in the pan I have serious reservations about its ability to keep the oil around the pickup as well as the other designs. Second I think the windage screen is far far too open for any real oil control, that screen really needs to be more of a mesh. Fortunately it appears that you can just pull the screen out and replace it with something better.

I also think all the options on the market are priced at least 4x what they are actually worth.

Check this company out for some actual race windage trays which I have used in the past, the link is to their universal one way screen kit which I would put on the PTP kit if I bought it.

Canton Racing Products
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 Old 03-03-2009, 10:12 AM   #6
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dope. thanks for the information. ate, you say that the two designs should be combined...
a windage tray with a baffle to keep oil near pick up, right?
also the guy above me also eludes that the windage tray will not keep the oil near the pick up, BUT it is the superior design.
what are air vortexes?
oil goes up in there?
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 Old 03-03-2009, 10:13 AM   #7
 
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06speed6 how would you go about securing that upgraded windage screen?
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 Old 03-03-2009, 10:14 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by phantom6294 View Post
I would think the two can be and normally are combined into a single peice.
Actually that depends, typically on the cheaper race stuff it can be combined. On a actual road race car they have a windage tray and a oil pan with one way oil passages. Once that oil goes through that one way valve it isn't going anywhere except through the pickup. Some pans use a trap door method and some use a ball valve, both are very effective.
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P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG


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 Old 03-03-2009, 10:17 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by MS6_Auburn_Fan View Post
06speed6 how would you go about securing that upgraded windage screen?
I dont think PTPs is secured, he is just using the screens own rigidity to hold it in and I am sure it isnt going to go anywhere since I dont think it provides much resistance to oil going through it.

The Canton screen might have to be screwed in, which isnt an exiting prospect.
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P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG


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 Old 03-03-2009, 10:21 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
I dont think PTPs is secured, he is just using the screens own rigidity to hold it in and I am sure it isnt going to go anywhere since I dont think it provides much resistance to oil going through it.

The Canton screen might have to be screwed in, which isnt an exiting prospect.
when I was planning my engine build
the true windage tray I had planned was going to be attached directly to the main cap cradle
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 Old 03-03-2009, 10:25 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
I dont think PTPs is secured, he is just using the screens own rigidity to hold it in and I am sure it isnt going to go anywhere since I dont think it provides much resistance to oil going through it.

The Canton screen might have to be screwed in, which isnt an exiting prospect.
PTPs is secured with screws.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...6-finally.html
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 Old 03-03-2009, 10:25 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by whoosh View Post
when I was planning my engine build
the true windage tray I had planned was going to be attached directly to the main cap cradle
You know Ron, you should make MS6 parts. You could make some money so mod your cute little station wagon.

Thats no joke either.

Of course I could take my own advice too =P
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P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG



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 Old 03-03-2009, 10:49 AM   #13
 
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subly bubly sub lol
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 Old 03-03-2009, 11:15 AM   #14
 
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They serve different purposes. The windage tray keeps oil from sloshing up onto the crank, causing parasitic losses, frothing, and slinging of oil up into the engine. The baffles keep the oil from sloshing about the pan and away from the pickup, starving the engine. I consider both to be necessary.
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 Old 03-03-2009, 11:29 AM   #15
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Make a two step baffle/windage tray. Full screen top and about 1 inch step down full plate with rampage. There best of both worlds. No screws no rivets no nuts & bolts. Just the two peices held in place by the original stock bolts.
Someone make that and sell for $99
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 Old 03-03-2009, 11:32 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by atomicms3 View Post
They serve different purposes. The windage tray keeps oil from sloshing up onto the crank, causing parasitic losses, frothing, and slinging of oil up into the engine. The baffles keep the oil from sloshing about the pan and away from the pickup, starving the engine. I consider both to be necessary.
can one run both?
maybe not with the designs we have for our car right now, but is that a possibility?
and who will step up to the plate for this?
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 Old 03-03-2009, 11:33 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by bioevolve View Post
Make a two step baffle/windage tray. Full screen top and about 1 inch step down full plate with rampage. There best of both worlds. No screws no rivets no nuts & bolts. Just the two peices held in place by the original stock bolts.
Someone make that and sell for $99
hahaha, i posted my above response to joe before bio typed this.
this is exactly what i'm talking about
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 Old 03-03-2009, 11:45 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by phillyb View Post
hahaha, i posted my above response to joe before bio typed this.
this is exactly what i'm talking about
Great minds think alike hehehe.
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 Old 03-03-2009, 12:04 PM   #19
 
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I think everyone has stated the benefits already. This mod is one of the no brainers on design. Sheet steel and tin snips and a drill and a rivit gun and Bam you have your own.

Oh crap. 06Speed6, did not know they sold those. thanks.
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 Old 03-03-2009, 02:13 PM   #20
 
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While I realize that the smaller mesh will initially work much better than the "large" holes, you have to realize that those road-race windage trays are changed seasonally on race cars. This is because of build up and eventual blockage, making it no longer functional. With as gunky as our oil gets and as many more miles we put on these cars, I don't think its a good idea to use the fine mesh. PTPs will work for alot longer than that mesh will. That's a gaurantee. Might be wise still to take the pan out after a year or so to see how much build up is on it though.
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 Old 03-03-2009, 05:12 PM   #21
 
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The windage tray is to prevent oil from splashing from the sump onto the crank during rapid turns and quick directional changes. A baffle is to keep the oil pickup for the pump submerged in all but the hardest maneuvers.

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 Old 03-03-2009, 05:28 PM   #22
 
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ummm,... vendors stay out. wassup- read the op's demands
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 Old 03-03-2009, 05:36 PM   #23
 
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i knew someone would chime in lol. good post philly
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 Old 03-03-2009, 05:37 PM   #24
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he's voicing his opinion and he's honestly the least of my worries.
i'm more concerned with his "boss", ptp, and medieval/ds coming in and saying their product is the best.
this thread has helped a ton so far. thanks guys
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 Old 03-03-2009, 07:25 PM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by bykeryder4life View Post
ummm,... vendors stay out. wassup- read the op's demands
um he didn't say anything involving trying to sell the part at all so i dont see a problem with his post.
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 Old 03-03-2009, 07:59 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by phillyb View Post
he's voicing his opinion and he's honestly the least of my worries.
i'm more concerned with his "boss", ptp, and medieval/ds coming in and saying their product is the best.
this thread has helped a ton so far. thanks guys
My "boss" isnt my boss. I AM protegegarage.com on these forums. Ken is a friend whom I am helping with. Thank you for making the distinction about my post.

I am not trying to sell anything in this thread, just provide information.

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 Old 03-03-2009, 08:10 PM   #27
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quotation marks are the best
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 Old 03-03-2009, 08:26 PM   #28
 
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My f2 will be welded to replace the rivets, i think it will do just fine
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 Old 03-03-2009, 08:27 PM   #29
 
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Hmmm I see. So still better than a solid plate?

Originally Posted by ATE BALLER View Post
While I realize that the smaller mesh will initially work much better than the "large" holes, you have to realize that those road-race windage trays are changed seasonally on race cars. This is because of build up and eventual blockage, making it no longer functional. With as gunky as our oil gets and as many more miles we put on these cars, I don't think its a good idea to use the fine mesh. PTPs will work for alot longer than that mesh will. That's a gaurantee. Might be wise still to take the pan out after a year or so to see how much build up is on it though.
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 Old 03-03-2009, 09:50 PM   #30
 
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Nice post phillyb...I was gonna post something like this but you beat me to it. Great info. here guys!
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 Old 03-03-2009, 09:51 PM   #31
 
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if you were to purchase the ptp windage tray make sure you can get ahold of john first
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 Old 03-03-2009, 10:11 PM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by babcockxmx View Post
if you were to purchase the ptp windage tray make sure you can get ahold of john first

This is true. He might be balls deep into working on making your car faster and more reliable when you need him most.
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 Old 03-03-2009, 10:54 PM   #33
 
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install of the windage tray looks like a bitch with no cut out for the oil feed thing. the f2 has a cut out for it.
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 Old 03-03-2009, 11:06 PM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by phillyb View Post
he's voicing his opinion and he's honestly the least of my worries.
i'm more concerned with his "boss", ptp, and medieval/ds coming in and saying their product is the best.
this thread has helped a ton so far. thanks guys
oops sorry I misunderstood what you meant/wanted. Sorry wassup as well...
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 Old 03-03-2009, 11:26 PM   #35
 
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you know when dane is drunk posting whe he ends with
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 Old 03-04-2009, 01:59 AM   #36
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I am running a good oil and I dont have buildup problems, I dont think the screen would get clogged very quickly at all. It isnt nearly as small as a oil filter and the surface area is much larger and a oil filter can typically go 15k miles or more. Plus most oil pump pickups have a built in screen that is fairly small, if screens got clogged up I dont think they would have one on the oil pump.
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P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG


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 Old 03-04-2009, 05:13 AM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
I am running a good oil and I dont have buildup problems, I dont think the screen would get clogged very quickly at all. It isnt nearly as small as a oil filter and the surface area is much larger and a oil filter can typically go 15k miles or more. Plus most oil pump pickups have a built in screen that is fairly small, if screens got clogged up I dont think they would have one on the oil pump.
+1
if anyone has oil sludge or gunk anywhere they have some issues beyond selecting an oil pan baffle/windage tray
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 Old 03-04-2009, 09:29 AM   #38
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For anyone installing their own oil control system, or modifying an existing, or just installing one...

It would be realllly good idea to use red loctite on any and all fasteners on the baffle/windage assembly.

Of the two choices, I'm most intrigued by the claims on the ptp unit stopping any and all pcv accumulation (ie, eliminating the need for a catch can). I feel this has a farther reaching benefit then a more dedicated baffling system.

I doubt that the speed3 can create enough g forces to cause a starvation issue in a relatively stock vehicle. Maybe if you race preped the car, welding in a cage, redid the entire suspension (creating your own strut/shock towers), then running r comps and pulling 1.2 g's in a sweeper at vir.

I think most people are installing the baffles, because lets face it, you're deleting the BSD assembly, and the whole oil pan is off, so what the hell, might as well install something else while the shit is all apart. I know thats the main reason I'd get one.

I had roughly 16 hours of track time in my Mazda 6s, which runs a duratec 3.0, an engine widely known for oil starvation issues. My car was stiff as a rock, running 13 kg/mm front springs, and 9 kg/mm rear (with a massive RB rear sway bar, jacking up the overall spring rate effect), on 245/45/16 wide sticky Hankook Ventus Z212's. It was also slammed so low, you had to lift the front to get the jack under it.
Estimated G pulled in the skidpad were around 1.05...that thing was a machine! [Oh, and it ran 5w-20 redline at the track! Ha take that thicker oil guys! Car didn't drink an ounce of oil till I switched it to oh shitty ass mobil1 when I traded it in]

What's my point? The stock baffling on the 6s was shit compared to the stock baffling on the ms3, and i never had a peep of an issue. Add to the fact that most of you are wiping out the BSD assembly, which adds roughly a qt of oil capacity, and I highly doubt 99.5% of you will ever encounter enough lateral g's to cause oil starvation. You'd probably have to flip the car.

I bet guy's running the MS3 at the track are more likely to encounter fuel baffling issues, then oil ones. (ie, running around the track at less then half a tank of gas, causes fueling issues type deal). I know in the 6, if I ever let that sucker get to 1/4 a tank, I couldn't take any of the sweepers without the fuel sloshing away from the pickup. Heck even the STI guys have to run half a tank or more at all times.
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 Old 03-07-2009, 07:19 AM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by Crossbow View Post
For anyone installing their own oil control system, or modifying an existing, or just installing one...

It would be realllly good idea to use red loctite on any and all fasteners on the baffle/windage assembly.

Of the two choices, I'm most intrigued by the claims on the ptp unit stopping any and all pcv accumulation (ie, eliminating the need for a catch can). I feel this has a farther reaching benefit then a more dedicated baffling system.

I doubt that the speed3 can create enough g forces to cause a starvation issue in a relatively stock vehicle. Maybe if you race preped the car, welding in a cage, redid the entire suspension (creating your own strut/shock towers), then running r comps and pulling 1.2 g's in a sweeper at vir.

I think most people are installing the baffles, because lets face it, you're deleting the BSD assembly, and the whole oil pan is off, so what the hell, might as well install something else while the shit is all apart. I know thats the main reason I'd get one.

I had roughly 16 hours of track time in my Mazda 6s, which runs a duratec 3.0, an engine widely known for oil starvation issues. My car was stiff as a rock, running 13 kg/mm front springs, and 9 kg/mm rear (with a massive RB rear sway bar, jacking up the overall spring rate effect), on 245/45/16 wide sticky Hankook Ventus Z212's. It was also slammed so low, you had to lift the front to get the jack under it.
Estimated G pulled in the skidpad were around 1.05...that thing was a machine! [Oh, and it ran 5w-20 redline at the track! Ha take that thicker oil guys! Car didn't drink an ounce of oil till I switched it to oh shitty ass mobil1 when I traded it in]

What's my point? The stock baffling on the 6s was shit compared to the stock baffling on the ms3, and i never had a peep of an issue. Add to the fact that most of you are wiping out the BSD assembly, which adds roughly a qt of oil capacity, and I highly doubt 99.5% of you will ever encounter enough lateral g's to cause oil starvation. You'd probably have to flip the car.

I bet guy's running the MS3 at the track are more likely to encounter fuel baffling issues, then oil ones. (ie, running around the track at less then half a tank of gas, causes fueling issues type deal). I know in the 6, if I ever let that sucker get to 1/4 a tank, I couldn't take any of the sweepers without the fuel sloshing away from the pickup. Heck even the STI guys have to run half a tank or more at all times.
very informative ... im leaning towards ptp
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 Old 03-07-2009, 11:14 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
I am running a good oil and I dont have buildup problems, I dont think the screen would get clogged very quickly at all. It isnt nearly as small as a oil filter and the surface area is much larger and a oil filter can typically go 15k miles or more. Plus most oil pump pickups have a built in screen that is fairly small, if screens got clogged up I dont think they would have one on the oil pump.
First off, philly I am just in here for info... not to sell anything.

06speed, the screen will work very well, we had a diamond stripper screen designed for the application but it would fill up very quick with the amount of oil the motor drops on it. The screen design would work if you had an open top (all the way around the pan opening) with a larger surface area for all the oil to hit. The open hole design of the windage tray is to allow the oil back into the motor due to the volume that hits it, going much smaller will only allow it to back up and fill the top of the windage tray with oil rendering it usless.

Hope this helps.
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