Won't Go In Gear,...etc.

[Meeks726]

Earlier today, I installed my FMIC. As soon as I was done, I decided to test drive the car. 10 houses down, I made a full stop at a stop sign. When the car started moving forward, something started grinding really loud so I stopped. I then tried going into 1st, it grinds at the engagement point. It's like something wants to spin but the wheels aren't spinning at all. The grinding noise is more like a grinding metal in circular motions. Also, it's like there is a piece of something inside the tranny whenever it makes the grinding noise and it sounds like it's getting stuck or something. I've tried 1st, 2nd, 3rd-6th and reverse, it just grinding noise. Also, the car doesn't stall in all gears. It's weird because it was driving smooth until the store sign. It was fine yesterday, the day before, blah blah blah. It happened so instant. Like there wasn't a warning or any other sounds/symptoms. Does anyone know what the problem is to my car? I need to know if it's something I can fix or not before I get it towed to a shop. I had my car towed to my car when the incident happened.

Also, p0030 poped up. What exactly is this code?

[Solarsurge]

To answer the easy question, which any Google search could have revealed, the P0030 is a front O2 sensor code.

As for the rest, there's not nearly enough information in that post to even begin to start troubleshooting your issues. What FMIC kit did you use and how is your piping routed? Did you do anything else or work anywhere else in your engine bay or under the car? Is it actually going into any of the gears or none of them? You said it's not stalling in ALL the gears, but didn't say which gears it IS stalling in. You're gonna have to be a little more specific for internet troubleshooting, my man.

[Solarsurge]

Just to clarify, if you clocked your turbo for under routed piping, the O2 sensor cable runs behind your engine right where your hot pipe would go and you could have damaged your O2 sensor wiring. That wire is also connected to a bracket that lives directly above your shifter linkages, and all of that lives under your battery box. It's possible that something was knocked loose or broken during pipe routing or battery box maneuvering. I'd take off the battery box and see if anything is screwed up underneath.

Then again...it's also entirely possible you fried your clutch while "testing" your new FMIC setup...

[Solarsurge]

Picture:

[Meeks726]

Originally Posted by Solarsurge Just to clarify, if you clocked your turbo for under routed piping, the O2 sensor cable runs behind your engine right where your hot pipe would go and you could have damaged your O2 sensor wiring. That wire is also connected to a bracket that lives directly above your shifter linkages, and all of that lives under your battery box. It's possible that something was knocked loose or broken during pipe routing or battery box maneuvering. I'd take off the battery box and see if anything is screwed up underneath. Then again...it's also entirely possible you fried your clutch while "testing" your new FMIC setup...

There's no way it's the clutch. I never had any issues with my clutch like it never slipped and I never burn it. Also, I did not get close to the o2 sensor at all. And the piping is 100% connected right

[Fstrnyou]

Originally Posted by Meeks726 There's no way it's the clutch.

Everything works...until it doesn't.

Easy thing to check/do is bleed your clutch line.
If that's good, you might have a bad pilot bearing binding up.
With car off, I bet it goes in gear just fine.

[Solarsurge]

We are trying to help you but so far you have not provided enough information, have not answered questions, and seem to be dismissive of the idea that your workmanship or your driving can be the cause of your issue. I know we love to believe we are the world’s greatest mechanics and drivers, but clearly something is broken and it happened right after you worked on it and drove it. A FMIC install can explain your O2 sensor code if you’ve got a leak, but is in no way even remotely related to your transmission unless you created enough power to break it or fucked something up during install or testing. There’s your simple answer.


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[LowFlyin]

Had a similar issue that popped up right after my fmic install, the shift weight was scraping up on the cold side piping causing it to act funky.

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[kTaLgsTo]

Originally Posted by LowFlyin Had a similar issue that popped up right after my fmic install, the shift weight was scraping up on the cold side piping causing it to act funky. Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk

THIS

[Fstrnyou]

Shifter weight delete. Weight reduction. Win.

[Meeks726]

Thanks for trying to help. I did further inspection and found out that driver side CV axle is BROKEN and not connected to the wheel bearing. The passenger side is still in one piece, the boot closest to the tranny is torn and there is some play. The noises I mentioned were coming from both axles.

[Fstrnyou]

Fair enough. I'll keep my eyes open for the Part-Out thread in For Sale section.
.
.
Kidding. Glad you figured out the problem.
I want to say the there are eBay axles from DTA that are well priced and have had positive reviews. I have a new pair for my 6 when the forged build goes in next week-ish. Mine are starting to click.

[Meeks726]

Originally Posted by Fstrnyou Fair enough. I'll keep my eyes open for the Part-Out thread in For Sale section. . . Kidding. Glad you figured out the problem. I want to say the there are eBay axles from DTA that are well priced and have had positive reviews. I have a new pair for my 6 when the forged build goes in next week-ish. Mine are starting to click.

I can't tell if you're serious about the ebay axles or not. The OEMS are so expensive, almost $500 each :/

[LowFlyin]

He's serious. They're good

Originally Posted by Meeks726 I can't tell if you're serious about the ebay axles or not. The OEMS are so expensive, almost $500 each :/

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[Meeks726]

Originally Posted by LowFlyin He's serious. They're good Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk

Sweet

[Fstrnyou]

"Upgraded" front axles don't exist...as far as I know.

[Solarsurge]

I have extra OEM axles from a parts car, but we aren’t doing the engine swap until next weekend. If you still need it, it will be available then.


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