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| FIRST: As far as the install went, and my review of the manifold I have some mixed reviews on it thus far. It does seem to be a quality piece, welds aren't the worst, but aren't the best. The bracing they added is a nice touch if you're running a BT setup to help support the extra weight. STOCK MANIFOLD REMOVAL: Removing the the stock manifold and doing the swap from the top is pretty straight forward and simple, depending on how small your hands are and the size of wrenches you have getting to the last couple manifold bolts requires removal of the entire EGR valve, I found it to be much simpler and allows you much more room for working. INSTALL: The manifold goes is with ease between the firewall and the block no problems there. The toughest part is getting the head flange to line up entirely and getting it go on essentially. Some pry bars and a dead blow mallet helped with this part... This is where I began to run into my biggest issue... Once the manifold was flat to the head the turbo did NOT line up with the merge collector and the flange. The entire flange/collector area was off by approximately 1/2 to 3/4" this may not seem like a lot, but the turbo will not move that far to the right no matter how hard you try and what tools you use. Next, pulled the manifold back out to look everything over again everything looked fine, put the manifold back in and same thing happened. At this point I'm frustrated beyond words, this is just not lining up what so ever. @UnknownSuperhero; who graciously provided his garage space and tools up for this install and the idea of trying to get the turbo on the flange first then getting the manifold on the head. After some serious prying and (hammering) on the flange we were able to get everything on. Everything going well now we start bolting everything down and run into the next issue caused by the flange pulling the turbo to the drivers side of the car my turbo (gtx3076) now hits an exhaust stud on the head and I have no way to get the bolt back on. At this point, I'm so frustrated and annoyed I really wanted to just go back to stock and have this manifold fixed and redone with all the fitment issues I've had. Well, once again I'm convinced I've come this far that I need to finish it out, we pry the manifold away from the head and somehow create just enough room to get the bolt back on. All fine and dandy we start bolting everything down. The manifold was tightened in the proper sequence to ensure it sealed evenly across the head. Manifold is now on and everything is put back together and we fire up the car for first start up.... HUGE HUGE HUGE MASSIVE exhaust leak coming from every part of the manifold to the head. We did the ol'e BBQ lighter flame test and sure as shit leaking everywhere. This manifold is as tight as we can possibly get it. I used the provided gasket for testing, (big mistake) this gasket is way to thick for this type of application and does not crush enough to seal to the head. It's now midnight, I'm exhaust and have work in the morning, I drive the car and baby it home tell I have time to pull this all back apart and redo this and install a new gasket. INSTALL CONT: Few days later I had the chance, I purchased a brand new OEM gasket from my local mazda dealer for this. @mWindu; and @msantana101; I can't thank you both enough for helping on this night to get everything re situated. Well, this part was much quicker now that I have 2 others helping and everything is fresh and the bolts were easy to break loose again. I'll keep this short, taking the manifold back out we ran into the exact same fitment issue with the manifold again on the re install. I must add that there is also a flange angle issue, this moved the bottom of my turbo towards the block, exact opposite of the steedspeed tilted manifold and makes the fitment for GT series turbo's very tight and not what I would call ideal in anyway. Now I know these were supposed to be final prototypes and the last revision, but they need some more work IMO. They were hand welded in a jig, my conclusion is that the jig was a little off from the cad drawings and design. Back on track, after re installing and dealing with all the same issues, the head is tight to the block and we fire the car up, no crazy major exhaust leak this time thank god. Heat cycled it and drove the car around let it cool down and re tightened everything. POWER GAINS/SPOOL: Well, I was a little disappointed in this to be 100% honest. I was expecting to see some spool gains, ability to lower wgdc due to the fact that this should be flowing much better then our stock manifold. I saw absolutely zero spool gains, was not able to lower any wgdc and saw approximately 8-10whp gain from roughly 4200-5500rpm. I sent some logs over to Justin (atvfreek) for comparison and see if any re tuning was needed. My tune was still spot on and no adjustments were needed. You'd think something would be needed with adding such a significant flow mod over our stock exhaust manifold. This was a little disappointing to me. You'd honestly expect to have some changes be needed for something like this. What can you do though, right? I wish I had all the pictures to post of this install to show all these little things I'm talking about, but thanks to some asshole the other night who stole my phone I have nothing (fuck shady people) side rant ended lol. I hope this will help some people and @StayBroke; in getting some of these little last issues fixed and addressed. Thanks for letting me test this manifold. I've been beating on my car a lot more then I normally would just to really put it through it's paces. FINAL IMPRESSION: Depending on the price of this unit, which is unknown to me at this time this would be a huge factor in my decision. I'd say this should sell somewhere between $350-500 that is my OPINION after testing and seeing the quality and results. This manifold to seems to be a more middle of the road option like the steedspeed or older dnp and pg manifolds. I do not see this manifold being beneficial for people trying to make big power on a built motor due to the lack of spool and power gains I saw on a GTX3076. If this had a longer length merge collector which is ideal for higher hp this may have helped, but that's neither here nor there. Hope this helps everyone.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I can't take too much credit on helping out as I just hand washed the car with quick detailer while you were fixing the manifold LOL. Either way, good write up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
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.tappin
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tappin
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Don't take it the wrong way like I said, honest reviews are def important. tappin
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| [QUOTE=h0ckeyman;2236510]So basically its hard as fuck to install and doesn't make power. Damn $375 in the can.... Don't take it the wrong way like I said, honest reviews are def important. I hear you, but there is a reason why this manifold is the price you paid for it imo. Also, the runners going to where they are on the merge collector does not help promote faster spool either. Ideally you'd want 1 and 4 on one side of the merge collector and 2 and 3 on the other or hell even 1 and 3 and 2 and 4 which is more for a divided setup, but those combinations will help with spool. The 1 and 2 3 and 4 design is not the best with a 4cyl firing order Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 4
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tappin
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have been in contact with Xs Power on this manifold. I Should be receiving mine in about a week or so. Going to be doing a before and after dyno comparison on a car with a K04. Also going to see how fitment is with a stock turbo / downpipe. Should have a full write up on the manifold soon. My plans are to dyno the car as it is now in my signature. Then I will Dyno the car with only changing the manifold out. Next, I will put the stock manifold back on with an atp downpipe and dyno it. Then finally will dyno it again with the Xs power manifold and Downpipe. This should give us all a better idea of fit with stock turbos and power gains. My timeline is to have this all done within 3 weeks from now. Will keep you guys informed.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score IMO you don't install an ex manifold and expect to see gains without touching the tune. A mod like this is an "efficiency" mod, meaning you should be able to run higher boost without as diminishing results compared to the stock mani. I also wonder if you would be able to push timing some more without the same knock showing up, as now the motor should be able to breath easier. I would ask TheFreek to see if you can squeeze anything else out of this tune. @NJSPEED3; can speak some words on efficiency...his intake mani swap produced some really interesting results based on how much power is made at a certain amount of boost. IMO, @LumberJack; your next mod for sure should be the JMF intake mani to get the most out of your setup. Your turbo is made for boost, so throw more boost at it
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The manifold also did not help lower and minor kr that I had or was having. I changed plugged to a brand new set of ngk as well shortly after. I personally don't see the manifold helping people in a big turbo setup for power and I stated why Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 4
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I do know for a fact that on other turbo cars I have messed with over the years I have seen differences in power & spool time with only swapping manifolds and not touching the tune. On a turbo Focus I bult, going from a log manifold to a long collector ramhorn manifold made about 17whp more without touching the tune or boost. Yes, the manifold may allow more power by tuning, but honestly a good manifold should make some small improvement over a factory cast manifold without messing with the tune. I hope it makes some kind of gain, but if it doesn't then we have more info for the good of the community to work with.
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__________________ '08 CWP MS3 w/ T3 3071r | |
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| Lol, my next mod is built motor. I am ordering pistons/rods and head studs tonight
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Also, if BT doesn't see gains, than there is no way that the stock turbo will. It doesn't work that way. If anything there would be minimal gains on K04 and more on BT setup.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score E85 takes more fuel to burn then 91. So you run out of fuel sooner which is why you want to bigger injectors. But we are fucked in that regard. Thus is why we need ether meth or 5th/6th port or the jmf mani with port injection.
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I will be installing one on my car tomorrow or the next day and I'll be back with my personal results.
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I've also slowly been developing a larger exhaust bleak as the days go in. The manifold is leaking pretty heavily from where the relief cut is in the head flange bbq lighter confirmed the area. I did use all brand new oem gaskets. If I have to pull this shit off again my stock one is more then likely going back on. I'm tired of 1 issue after another ![]() Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 4
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| Not Ranked : 0 score power parts such as a tubular manifold, you get what you pay for imo. I went from a steedspeed to the afi, and neither were cheap manifolds, but the gains, WORTH every dollar. all you bt guys want more power, there's a reason why you have to pay. my highest trap on the steedspeed was 117. my highest trap on the afi was a touch under 124. that right there proves massive power gains. I'm not knocking this manifold at all, but if it's a Bitch to install, and you haven't gained any real power like you should with a tubular manifold, then all it is was something better looking than that rusty stock one. |
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Everything you are saying could be 110% fact. I am not disputing that...but it could also be an anomaly or you having other issues with your car. That's why scientists test things over and over and over again. There are a shit load of variables. You've come to a lot of conclusions based on your own experiences, which is understandable. Other people haven't had those experiences, and to be honest there needs to be a lot more info and testing before an OVERALL consensus on this manifold is reached.
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Staybroke posted logs and a VD back within like the first 10 posts. He gained ZERO spool from this manifold. Realistically VD isn't a great tool for showing changes on an exhaust manifold due to the immense variables when taking a log to input into VD.
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If it went on lets say 15 different cars with different setups and the gains were a minimal % across the board than I would say that average might be a pretty accurate representation of the benefits of this manifold. Unfortunately, that is not what we have at all.
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28 on afi. I spool faster, and the gains are noticeable. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Damn, my bad thought you had 26psi on the SS then recently bumped up to 28.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score All in all this manifold was not built to set higj hp records, it was there to help people that were on stock turbo flange to get a manifold at a decent price. This thing is like a dnp and alot of people still run that. If it didnt work out oh well, we will go a different route. But ive installed 3, and ran on my car. All I am saying is yes the afi is better but I would never ever ecpect to make a alot of power on the stock flange. Now teddy has a t3 or t4 right? @teddy; All in all this manifold was not built to set higj hp records, it was there to help people that were on stock turbo flange to get a manifold at a decent price. This thing is like a dnp and alot of people still run that. If it didnt work out oh well, we will go a different route. But ive installed 3, and ran on my car. All I am saying is yes the afi is better but I would never ever ecpect to make a alot of power on the stock flange. Now teddy has a t3 or t4 right? @Voltron Locos; And yes I am alittle buzzed on drugs from the doctor lol.
__________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Last edited by StayBroke; 09-04-2013 at 04:05 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yes t3 flange. my mani swap helped me tremendously. I'm not saying that the afi is the best out there but compared to the gains over the SS mani, it's a huge improvement. I definitely was choked up on the top end, and that's where we felt we needed the most power especially on the stock motor. this manifold you're running, after full tuning, for the money you pay, could be a improvement over the stock one. none of the guys running it, are done with their tunes including you. time will tell, and trap speeds will tell. |
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Not expecting AFI type gains but it HAS to be better than the stock EM.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Teddy's example is good in showing how different designs can produce more power. Teddy's tuner saw a big change in the data logs after his AFI manifold was installed. Teddy'sa tuner also saw changes when he installed my intake manifold. The proper changes were made and gains were had. If Lumberjack reported 0 changes in the logs than I think its safe to say this manifold flows the same or less than the stock one. What gauge thickness is the tubing? Personally for 400-425whp I think the stock manifold will do fine. Save up and buy a proper exhaust manifold and do it right one time. As far as stock flange exhaust manifolds, I really like the CPE one. The CPE manifold collector is huge compared to some other manifolds. This might explain why those guys make easy power. I have a local here in NJ making 450whp on low timing and not much boost 25psi (atp gtx3076) IF I'm not mistaken. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I hadn't given any thought towards collector design until I read this, so I took a look at my rapebuilt... sweet jesus; the collectors are coming together at a 45* angle.
__________________ 2008.5 CWP: GTX 3071//Rapebuilt EM//Relentless pnp IM//JBR 3.5" WP//TurboXS DP/RP//TR8C/Cobb FMIC//GFS bpv//JBR 88/70/70a//Eibach Pro Kit//Koni Yellows//JBR RSB//RX8's Awaiting Install: DO Stage 2//3 Bar MAP//CPe Safeseals Winter Beater: 96 GMC K1500 5 speed 4x4 Needed: Driver mod [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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__________________ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 GT 18x8.75 XXR 527 225/40/18r COBB AP// Finkles hypnotic sexyness 50/50 e85// HTP 3.5 Whale Penis// HTP 51R battery box// JBR Adjustable SSP//JBR 88 RMM// Grimspeed 3 port EBCS// CX Racing FMIC// CNT Racing catless DP// AT internals// Lamin-x Fog light inserts// Stiffy Ingals Mtourque Mount// Asian tower brace(lol)// CNT Racing Catback// Turbo XS RFL BOV VTA FTMFW!!// Upgrated clutch// Drilled and sloted rotors (font and back)// UNDER THE KNIFE New fucken miata build: 1993 Red Na6 Some suspension modz yo 1994 Caste White MX5 Miata - sold 1991 Smurf Blue miata - sooooooold Coilovers// Other shit |
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__________________ Eric Schlaht - Arizona Phoenix Photographer http://www.esimaging.net - http://www.facebook.com/esimaging [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2007 MS3 Sport, gtx3071r, Full-Race Exhaust Manifold, SP PNP Intake Manifold, SP 88mm Pistons 9:5:1, Manley H Beam Rods, 10mm H11 Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, 4" HTP TIP + Small Battery Tray, 3 Bar MAP, Grimmspeed ECBS, CP-E FMIC, CP-E DP, CP-E Nexus CBE, Tokay Injector Seals, CP-E RMM, SU PMM, TRZ TMM, PTP FP Internals, DCR VVT, JBrone Shift Plate, SU Shifter Bushings, HKS SSQV, ITV22, DIY Perm Plate with dual OCC, Corksport Radiator Shroud, Southbend Stage 3 Clutch, DO Stage 2 Meth D10, Evo X Wheels, 245/40-18 Nitto NT05, Koni Sports + H&R Springs **463whp/409lb-ft via Mustang Dyno as of 3/28/14** **9/19/13** Zoom Zoom Boom ** Currently Rebuilding with goal of 475whp **11/19/13** Forged engine built and started up the car for the first time, success! **3/28/14** Dyno results from build 463whp / 409lb-ft Mustang Dyno **6/24/15** Sold the Mazdaspeed 3 **7/4/15** Purchased 2015 F150 Ecoboost Lariat FX4 with Sport Package |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Bad according to this thread... You want them to merge as gradually as possible Here's the best picture I have:
__________________ 2008.5 CWP: GTX 3071//Rapebuilt EM//Relentless pnp IM//JBR 3.5" WP//TurboXS DP/RP//TR8C/Cobb FMIC//GFS bpv//JBR 88/70/70a//Eibach Pro Kit//Koni Yellows//JBR RSB//RX8's Awaiting Install: DO Stage 2//3 Bar MAP//CPe Safeseals Winter Beater: 96 GMC K1500 5 speed 4x4 Needed: Driver mod [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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