XS Power Turbo Manifold is here... Install pics & Dyno results to follow soon.

[alphasaur]

Originally Posted by mgramata And your saying that from experience orr??

Cheap gaskets that come with cheap parts are always pieces of shit. Why are you trying to question everyone elses experience?

[mgramata]

Originally Posted by LumberJack They suck huge fat raging donkey cock! Do not use them, but that's too late you already did. Pretty sure that was one of the most emphasized things in all the XS Power Mani threads. USE OEM and add some copper spray for extra insurance. This is from personal experience with 2 of these manifolds and having removed it 3-4x for issues with the manifold/gasket issues it had earlier

I used the oem gaskets with copper spray..
So I will be buying new fel pros in the am.

[El_Diablo]

Did you say your manifold came with copper gaskets? The only ones from XS I recall seeing are the aluminum crush style gaskets. Got a picture?

[mgramata]

Originally Posted by El_Diablo Did you say your manifold came with copper gaskets? The only ones from XS I recall seeing are the aluminum crush style gaskets. Got a picture?

[El_Diablo]

Anneal those with a torch, clean them and then copper spray them atleast 2-3 coats and you'll never have an issue. I've used that style on high hp cars before without issue its just a PITA to prep them correctly.

[TiGraySpeed6]

I almost feel bad- I pulled my stocker off, looked at it for a moment, put it back on and bolted up the new mani

Only the second use for that gasket tho, it was reused when the new engine went in about 3500 miles ago. I've also got a new OEM gasket just sitting waiting to be used if needed.

Safe to say if I didn't have a new one ready to swap in, the current one would have failed instantly. Since I do have a spare the old one will last forever...

I didn't default to the new one in case there was some issue that required the mani to be removed & screwed with for whatever reason

[Turbo_Steve]

Did you try retorque the bolts? Maybe you never torqued them enough. Also do you have the egt bung pluged?

[mgramata]

Originally Posted by Turbo_Steve Did you try retorque the bolts? Maybe you never torqued them enough. Also do you have the egt bung pluged?

Yup that plug is sealed. once started I heard a leak, so I turned the car off and re-torqued the 4 turbo bolt where it was coming from. The leak at idle went away, but now it leaks when I give it like 60% throttle at 3k rpms. I'm just going to replace and red part the gaskets. Hopefully with no leaks! Aha
Thanks for the replies guys. Appreciate all the inputs

[maddocx240]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 I found getting them out wasn't so bad. Putting them back in, on the other hand, was a special kind of fun...

I just cut the damn line and used a hose. So I never have to deal with those bolts again.

[dale_gribble]

Ok, Dale update. I got my CP-E DP in my MS6. It was very easy, especially after the exhaust manifold install. Unfortunately, I must report that the CP-E DP ALSO contacts the driveshaft flange; the bolts hit the DP to be specific. It is VERY little contact; there are a few ways to remedy this. Unfortunately, I found this out after the thing was fully bolted up and there was NO way I was going to pull it today to hammer it. Here's some other options besides denting the DP. You could flip the bolts and I am pretty sure that would be enough clearance. I decided to very lightly dremel the corners of the outer edges bolts, so there is enough meat to put a wrench on still, but enough so there is no contact. It totally clears now, unfortunately, the bolts did put a light gouge in the pipe on my first test drive.

Oh, I did damage the threads on my WB02, but I was able to clean it up enough to reuse which is good.

Here's the gig. If you have a speed 6, just dent the DP above the lower 02 sensor before you install. It won't impact anything and it will save you a lot of time and hassle.

Anyways, here's the Turbo xs with stock DP vs. Turbo xs vs. CP-E DP. It's interesting, because usually there is a flow improvement, boost improvement, some kind of improvement that quantifies the improved numbers. I pretty much stacked all logged parameters and it was all even between baseline and DP. However, the 60-100 times went down by .22 seconds. So, everything else was the same, but with the DP, it did it faster. Log comparison showed +4HP/+14TQ between the runs. IATs were within 2 degrees between runs on the exact same stretch of road.

[Koke382]

Shuda gone catless

sent from my peepee

[TiGraySpeed6]

I hate to see my results reinforced, but it's nice to know I'm not insane...

[maddocx240]

Aww, that sucks. I'm gonna see what they do with next revision, I'm not really into the idea of denting my dp. But thanks for the write up dale.

[alphasaur]

Originally Posted by maddocx240 Aww, that sucks. I'm gonna see what they do with next revision, I'm not really into the idea of denting my dp. But thanks for the write up dale.

Weak son!

Trigger finger is itchy I want this

[maddocx240]

Originally Posted by alphasaur Weak son! Trigger finger is itchy I want this

Its very tempting, but that dp situation just doesn't sit right with me. They gotta do something about that.

[Bolted6]

I was not a huge fan of having to dent my $400 dp. But when all is said and done the denting of dp is minimal for clearance. It's the age old debate, spend more on quality/fit or save money on a cheaper part that might need some tweaking.

[ABolewski]

@Bolted6; Fast Reliable or Cheap, pick two!

[Bolted6]

Lower cost isn't always a cheap/junk item. The XS manifold is the only cheaper item I've installed on my build. Only time will tell if the quality of the manifold is there. The next "cheapest" manifold is DNP for $600. I'll stick that extra money either into an E85 tune or JBR mounts.

[FADE2GRY]

Originally Posted by maddocx240 Its very tempting, but that dp situation just doesn't sit right with me. They gotta do something about that.

Agree 100%. Even at any price. If size 11 shoes are on sale I still buy size 9 because that's what I need.

[alphasaur]

I don't expect car modding to be 100% put on and go. Headaches and slight modifications are inherent with this hobby imo. Manifold was likely designed on a speed 3 where there is no driveshaft.

[FADE2GRY]

@TiGraySpeed6; Do you have any pics of how close your downpipe is to your alternator?

My M2 downpipe touches the alternator's heat shield because the turbo is closer to the block after the XS Power exhaust manifold install. I was hoping to keep that heat shield on.

I also broke my V-band clamp when removing it so I could try fitment without the alternator heat shield. Sucks to be me - more down time.

[maddocx240]

I don't expect car Modding to be 100% but certain things I'm willing to modify and certain things I'm not. I don't think the manifold was tested with an aftermarket dp. Cause the stock pipe clears. But from what I hear there is supposed to be a final revision, xspower;

[Turbo_Steve]

Originally Posted by maddocx240 I don't expect car Modding to be 100% but certain things I'm willing to modify and certain things I'm not. I don't think the manifold was tested with an aftermarket dp. Cause the stock pipe clears. But from what I hear there is supposed to be a final revision, xspower;

Drilling or slotting the bolt holes on the turbine flange of the manifold with a carbide bit and a die grinder to allow you to rotate the turbo 2 degrees will fix everything. It will also keep you from needing to dent your downpipie on the MS6.

Most aftermarket manifolds, downpipies, etc have the bolt holes slightly oversized to allow for fitment adjustment. IIRC the bolt holes on my manifold were pretty tight. Being A MS3 I didn't notice any alignment issues with my install.

If XS power sent these manifolds out with the holes on the turbine flange drilled 2mm bigger I am sure none of these alignment issues with the ms6 would be popping up.

The V1 & V2 manifolds are being sold now by xs power heavily based off of the feedback of the initial test fitters. I had nothing come up with fitment on my MS3 and I did share info with XS power as such. It wasn't till after these manifolds are now being sold that some issues with fitment with certain aftermarket downpipes on the MS6 are coming up.

[dale_gribble]

Guys, its no big deal too slightly dent the dp. No one will ever see it, it has no impact on performance since its overkill anyways, and it isn't really going to hurt resale. I didn't even think twice about it.

[Bolted6]

I thought twice. But decided once the manifold was on there's no going back. Truthfully once the dp is modified you'll never give it a second thought.

[TiGraySpeed6]

Originally Posted by FADE2GRY @TiGraySpeed6; Do you have any pics of how close your downpipe is to your alternator? My M2 downpipe touches the alternator's heat shield because the turbo is closer to the block after the XS Power exhaust manifold install. I was hoping to keep that heat shield on.

It's tucked in there tight for sure, but no discoloration or anything. I took several pics, but it comes down to these two. You can see it's tucked in there, but not (currently) actually making contact. Picking nits - it's right up in there.

The only change here is the angle you're viewing from- more towards the O2 and it's not touching, more towards the alt and it's buried

[dale_gribble]

CP-E def has more clearance off of the alternator.

[FADE2GRY]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 It's tucked in there tight for sure, but no discoloration or anything. I took several pics, but it comes down to these two. You can see it's tucked in there, but not (currently) actually making contact. Picking nits - it's right up in there. The only change here is the angle you're viewing from- more towards the O2 and it's not touching, more towards the alt and it's buried

Thanks. Mine was a lot worse and actually prevented the v-band flanges to mate. @Turbo_Steve; mentioned rotating the turbo and I'll try that. I'll be getting me new V-band clamp on Wednesday.

Here's another funny thing. When I had the downpipe installed, for a few minutes, there was no clearance problems at the drive shaft flange. Enough space there to stick my fat hand between the pipe and the flange. Go figure.

[skiptowncat]

My build starts next week, I'll let you all know how it goes with fitment.

[MattJackson86]

Originally Posted by Turbo_Steve V2 required me to enlarge / slot 1 bolt hole but was otherwise painless. XS power knows of the issue with the bolt hole and it is being fixed on all v2-3 manifolds from this point on.

@Turbo_Steve

Purchased my V2 on 10/21, had it ceramic coated and came to install it today and it seems they missed enlarging the bolt hole on a few When looking at the flange, its the top right bolt hole that looks like it needs to be enlarged/slotted a 1/4". Was this the same for you?


EDIT: 20 mins with a grinder and carbide tip solved the issue. Fits great now.

[skiptowncat]

Originally Posted by MattJackson86 @Turbo_Steve Purchased my V2 on 10/21, had it ceramic coated and came to install it today and it seems they missed enlarging the bolt hole on a few When looking at the flange, its the top right bolt hole that looks like it needs to be enlarged/slotted a 1/4". Was this the same for you? EDIT: 20 mins with a grinder and carbide tip solved the issue. Fits great now.

Any data?

[MattJackson86]

Installing it currently with a new GTX3071. Install of the manifold so far hasn't been too bad. It fits back there no issue and wasn't really difficult to get it lined up and onto the studs of block and turbo (once the hole was enlarged). Definitely check holes with OEM gasket first.

The nuts bolting it to the turbo are not as easily reachable as OEM. Can get a socket on 1, other 3 require a short wrench. Found the nuts wouldn't go on the left side turbo studs if you do them last (ie you do the right side first) as the studs on the turbo then come close to the header tubes and you can't get the nuts on. So I'd suggest tightening (when looking from front of car) back left, front left, back right, front right (this one you can get a socket and impact gun on).

Once it was bolted to the turbo I started installing all the other manifold to block nuts. Did the top easily (easy access with wrench) and came to do the bottom. The bottom 2 near turbo I can now not get nuts on. The studs are too long and/or the turbo too close. There is a couple millimeters between end of stud and turbo. Will need to remove all the buts again tonight, hoping to then slide it off the studs a bit, enough to move turbo back and get nuts started, and then tighten them first. All others seem to have easy nut access.

Some of this may be BT size and fitment issues too, and they have not been difficult to resolve but to save you a headache its nice to know before you have to start undoing things.

EDIT: Figured out the bolt issue, your first must bolt the mani completely to the block and then bolt on the turbo. That allows the turbo to sit out of the way when tightening the 2 bottom nuts.

[MattJackson86]

Got it all bolted in and driving, only to find an exhaust leake on the mani->turbo flange. Brand new OEM gaskets used all round. Everything is really tight, so not sure what to do at the moment. Its the front of the flange looking through the runners. Not a small gap imo.

[Bolted6]

I had to re-torque mine after a couple of a hundred miles. But yes my manifold to flange was leaking to.

[MattJackson86]

so you just torqued it down and it was all good? Mine is tight right now, cant see getting it much tighter...

[Spectrix]

Sorry to say, that manifold will need to come out for the flange surface to be corrected.

[MattJackson86]

Kinda what I suspected, but hoped otherwise. Gonna try and remove it today and just put stock one in again for now. Want to get the car drivable with BT at least. I'll have to find a shop that I can take this too and have the flanges fully inspected.

[LumberJack]

Originally Posted by MattJackson86 Kinda what I suspected, but hoped otherwise. Gonna try and remove it today and just put stock one in again for now. Want to get the car drivable with BT at least. I'll have to find a shop that I can take this too and have the flanges fully inspected.

Unfortunately flange surfaces have been messed up on these since day 1. I posted this a few times that regardless of them being re surfaced from xs power that they needed to be checked AGAIN. My replacement that was supposedly fixed needed MAJOR resurfacing still.

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[MattJackson86]

Yes, everyone needs to take that advice and confirm flanges and bolt holes are correct before you go coating this thing, and especially before you install it. Ripping it out is not super fun, but good practice I guess....

In process of removing it now and hoping to find a shop to take it too this week.

Question, what nuts are people using for this? Oem seem best to me. After a few times tightening and loosening the atp ones do not seem to hold up. Probably going to stick with oem and washers. Also someone mentioned it earlier but Crows feet wrenches are a big help.

[LumberJack]

Originally Posted by MattJackson86 Yes, everyone needs to take that advice and confirm flanges and bolt holes are correct before you go coating this thing, and especially before you install it. Ripping it out is not super fun, but good practice I guess....

Agreed between all my bullshit that happened i replaced gaskets 3x and had the manifold out 3 separate times for either fitment or leak issues. All I can say is i can now have that fucker out in less then 45min haha.

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