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| MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
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__________________ JBR 3.5" whale penis intake, HTP polished battery tray, PnP stock intake manifold w/VCTS delete (by Kmac), Corksport TMIC, Forge V2 BPV, JBR TIG's, Kozmic EGR delete, Cobb AP, PTP HPFP internals, stock TBE w/gutted cats, JBR RMM, SU PMM and TMM, Koni Yellow Sport struts, Swift springs, Tri Point Engineering RSB, Whiteline Anti Lift Kit, PTP Injector Seals, GenPu transmission, Fidanza flywheel, 3 BAR MAP sensor, Posifab 10.5:1 CR 88mm sexy pistons, Molnar rods, sleeved block, PTP BSD SnailTune in progress |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score gawd I hate seeing that highway cruise KR. it's always less than 1, but it frequently happens to me if I've been cruising the highway for quit a while, and if I speed up I'll see the KR on my dashhawk and I'll backoff. It really does seem fuel economy related. Shit needs a different warning for non-urgent knock lol
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Wasn't there a thread about there being something wrong with your engine/compression a while ago OP? BTW, I don't get much PT knock at all. Just when the car is cold as the knock sensor comes into play when ECTs rise up to temp. Aside from that I don't really see PT knock and I have 45k miles on an 08.5 MS3. I also don't think PT knock is an indication that the engine will blow. Very heavy knock on tip-in after cruising on the highway accompanied with a smokescreen and the car hesitating is more worrisome and I used to get that before the days of tuning.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You should look at your injector seals
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So are you guys suggesting that it was a bad build? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score just curious, what do you're timing tables look like? I never see partial throttle kr & all I've done is follow buckers guide- 2 up & 2 down.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score This wasn't a built motor...unless you consider built by Mazda "built" LOL
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| Not Ranked : 0 score When you have KR of 8.1 ,come see me. I ended up with cracked ringlands in cyl 3 . Good luck.
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__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score The past few oil changes I didn't have excessive consumption. In the past I just added oil when it was low; I never really did a quantitative analysis. Since I get about an oil change every month I decided to see how much I actually added and kept track of the miles; I added about a half quart at around 4k miles. For some reason it seemed like a lot more before I got into modding...but back then I didn't pay as much attention to the details.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm sorry to hear this, Ben. I hope everything works out for the best. I hate to say it, but I have a feeling your "issue" in your last thread, never really went away and the e-mix you were using was just masking it.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score It's possible, but I went through quite a few tanks of regular 93 octane and everything did seem fine. I did just replace my O2 sensor, it failed a couple weeks ago. My AFR's have been fine, been meeting boost targets, and no knock (after replacing my plugs).
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I poured water into my reservoir, it leaked out at presumably the same place the oil was leaking...somewhere at the back of the engine. I can't see the leak, just where it drips. Today I'm getting some jackstands so I can hopefully get my fat ass under the car and see a little more. Yiming chain is definitely loose, lots of play in it. Doesn't feel like there's any tension at all.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So what are your plans now? Rebuild?
__________________ ![]() '08 Speed3 - Cobb sri/cp-e rmm/18x8 RX-8 rims (DynoJet @ 254 whp/295 wtq) '99 Miata - Ground Control coilovers/Bilstein Sports/Racing Beat F&R sway bars/Go Miata strut tower brace/Jackson Racing header/MSM muffler/15x7 Kudo Racing wheels |
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__________________ 07 MS3 The original Genpoo Hater PTE 5862cea ball bearing, plus some built stuff. Turismo Vids - Store your car vids and pics here! Blog your builds too! Click here for great deals at The RPM Store! PM me for pricing! I hear that honkey at Protégé Garage is pretty decent too. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I hope so.
__________________ ![]() '08 Speed3 - Cobb sri/cp-e rmm/18x8 RX-8 rims (DynoJet @ 254 whp/295 wtq) '99 Miata - Ground Control coilovers/Bilstein Sports/Racing Beat F&R sway bars/Go Miata strut tower brace/Jackson Racing header/MSM muffler/15x7 Kudo Racing wheels |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Time to wakey wakey...not sure what my plans are at this point. Probably need to get me a daily driver first. Then I will have the luxury of time to save more $ and get forged components. Do it right this time. I still need to determine if it's gonna need a new block. My brother was supposed to bring me some jackstands but he failed as usual.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Good luck man. What scares me is that you're not even that heavily modded yet still experienced this, twice.
__________________ ![]() '08 Speed3 - Cobb sri/cp-e rmm/18x8 RX-8 rims (DynoJet @ 254 whp/295 wtq) '99 Miata - Ground Control coilovers/Bilstein Sports/Racing Beat F&R sway bars/Go Miata strut tower brace/Jackson Racing header/MSM muffler/15x7 Kudo Racing wheels |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Oh I know this...LOL! I got the VC off, wanted to check the tension of the timing chain. There's about a half inch of slack in it, maybe a tiny bit more. It does feel looser than it did the last time I checked it. So then I went to grab a towel to cover the exposed engine and this little bastard scooted out and onto my arm...
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| Not Ranked : 0 score HOLY FUCKING SHIT! I see some spider guts though lol.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah I killed that muthafucka! You'll never see a fat man move that fast!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score First blown motor. Second blown motor. Third black widow. I hope your luck changes for the better. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah your life almost went ZZB.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Well now I have a DD....my parents let me borrow their Ford Fusion so I could start saving for the repairs. A local member is gonna move it to his shop Sunday night, so I will know more then. Hopefully it won't take too long to save enough to build the engine (and that Omar doesn't mind keeping the car while I save...LOL). At least in December I'll get an extra paycheck.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score shit man that blows. best of luck in the future. as far as pt knock is concerned, i was under the impression that this was the reason gen2's got revised pistons, and also why they changed the pcv system.
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__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I'll know more Sunday....
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| Not Ranked : 0 score regarding the Gen 1 part throttle KR issue, I posted this in another thread: I used to get the typical PT KR all the time. especially getting on the highway in the morning before the car was fully warmed up. was an everyday occurrence to see 3-5* KR at PT it went away completely after I did EGR delete, coolant bypass + gasket, TIG, injector seals, VTCS delete and OCC. I run my DH all the time and I have it set up to alert me whenever I get KR over 1* no more PT KR. I'm guessing the EGR is the culprit but I really don't know because I did so many mods at once I went from seeing PT KR every single day to never seeing it at all
__________________ 09 CWP MS3 Sport - ATP GT3071r on ~E30, ACT 6-puck, TR8 FMIC, Bilsteins, etc... sold |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Looking at my logs the KR I saw was between 2700 and 3200 rpm's, and it was around 2 to 4; I think even higher a couple times. Load was around .42 in every instance. Timing at that rpm for that load is around 40 degrees advanced. Maybe it's too much? Any other ideas? I mean considering I was at partial throttle in both cases of ZZB there must be something there...
__________________ JBR 3.5" whale penis intake, HTP polished battery tray, PnP stock intake manifold w/VCTS delete (by Kmac), Corksport TMIC, Forge V2 BPV, JBR TIG's, Kozmic EGR delete, Cobb AP, PTP HPFP internals, stock TBE w/gutted cats, JBR RMM, SU PMM and TMM, Koni Yellow Sport struts, Swift springs, Tri Point Engineering RSB, Whiteline Anti Lift Kit, PTP Injector Seals, GenPu transmission, Fidanza flywheel, 3 BAR MAP sensor, Posifab 10.5:1 CR 88mm sexy pistons, Molnar rods, sleeved block, PTP BSD SnailTune in progress Last edited by btstarcher; 08-23-2012 at 12:52 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I did an EGR delete and it gave me MORE pt knock |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah I read that one of the purposes of the EGR is to reduce knock tendency of an engine...
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![]() | | #76 | ![]() |
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PT KR esp at your load values would not cause any damage. There is simply not enough pressure in the cylinder for detonation to cause any harm to the bearings or rods.
__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score What if it increased too rapidly, and timing was still high? I've never logged this; I have no idea how quickly load ramps up from say 20% throttle to 40% or 60% or whatever. Damn I wish I had my AP plugged in; it's usually logging and I delete when I get to where I'm going.
__________________ JBR 3.5" whale penis intake, HTP polished battery tray, PnP stock intake manifold w/VCTS delete (by Kmac), Corksport TMIC, Forge V2 BPV, JBR TIG's, Kozmic EGR delete, Cobb AP, PTP HPFP internals, stock TBE w/gutted cats, JBR RMM, SU PMM and TMM, Koni Yellow Sport struts, Swift springs, Tri Point Engineering RSB, Whiteline Anti Lift Kit, PTP Injector Seals, GenPu transmission, Fidanza flywheel, 3 BAR MAP sensor, Posifab 10.5:1 CR 88mm sexy pistons, Molnar rods, sleeved block, PTP BSD SnailTune in progress |
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![]() | | #78 | ![]() |
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EGR can in some cases reduce the likelihood of knock by lowering combustion temps but I don't know how relevant that is on our DI engines. The 1700PSI+ fuel atomization may already lower combustion temps enough on its own EGR slows combustion by introducing inert gas. this can be mitigated by advancing timing. perhaps that compensatory timing advance contributes to the part throttle KR. I may be grasping here. and my loss of PT KR may have nothing to do with EGR. but the fact remains that I no longer see ANY part throttle KR after doing those mods
__________________ 09 CWP MS3 Sport - ATP GT3071r on ~E30, ACT 6-puck, TR8 FMIC, Bilsteins, etc... sold | |
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![]() | | #79 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score as load goes up timing drops...rapidly. I don't believe PT KR is the cause of your ZZB...or anyone's for that matter. Need to look elsewhere. WOT KR on the other hand can kill a motor real quickly...but would take numerous runs to weaken the rods and that type of KR would destroy the plugs first. Have you looked at your plugs? loading up the motor at low RPM high TQ will as well.
you are already pushing the motor to the limit of deto on clean high octane fuel and adding other BS to the charge is no good.
__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 Last edited by Dano; 08-23-2012 at 01:22 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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either way, I tend to agree that KR at very low loads is unlikely to cause ZZB
__________________ 09 CWP MS3 Sport - ATP GT3071r on ~E30, ACT 6-puck, TR8 FMIC, Bilsteins, etc... sold | |
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