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 Old 08-08-2018, 08:48 AM   #1
 
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Default 2007 Speed 6 Transmission swap

Ok guys its been sitting for awhile and even with the low compression numbers and having to jump the battery it still started immediately, no long cranks or what not no insane amounts of smoke...no smoke at all really...so anyways the whole low compression but still running like Forest Gump just found out he could walk without braces doesn't make sense to me but thats for another day. My question is I finally got enough money together while saving for a vacation and small parts on the 18 FoST that I can finally do something to fix the transmission. Now I posted awhile back that my 6th gear just randomly disappeared on the highway one day cruising from 5th to 6th and after it popped out all it would do was grind when trying to go back in. Still was driveable but when started cold the trans would wurr really bad unless you held in the clutch till the car was warm then itd go way and is totally silent. SO I am guessing it was the 6th gear synchro and diff bearing which is making the wurr noise when its cold. Now my question is do I rebuild this one, buy a low mileage used, or buy new? Obviously Id rather not buy new as I have found them in the ballpark of 2500k which Id rather put towards the motor. I have found a Speed 6 trans with only 75k on the car which as strong as our transmissions are I would imagine at that mileage it should have quite a bit of life left. My only question is the used trans is from a 2006 Speed6, is that interchangable with my 2007 Speed6 trans? Just wanted to make sure before I jumped on it. Oh and the used trans is only 750 so thats a nice tid bit too. Anyways if I do grab it up, are there any maintenance pieces or parts I should look at doing before I throw it back in the car. After that its onto the motor and deciding if I want to do a Corksport Dankai block, SP63 build, or a fresh Mazda Crate motor for about 3900 bucks straight from mazda. People on here say they are only finding longblock crate motors for almost 5 or 6k but if you go online you can find them for about 4k and not rebuilds or remans, fresh mazda crate long blocks? And my question is which should I use for my build, I am not going to adding much more to my signature as far as parts other then a new 3 or 3.5 inch corksport tip and maf and a new tune from Will at PD to take the tune up around 25 or 26 psi. Right now the JBR power path intake maf is max'd out at about 22.5 psi on the CS turbo with no knock besides shift knock and low throttle cruise.
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2007 Mazda Speed6 GT
Power: rebuilt stock motor*
JBR full power path stage II intake w/JBR TIP*
ATP catted downpipe w/ second cat delete*
Corksport HPFP internals*
Corksport BeCuse injector seals*
Corksport Turbo*
Corksport 3.5 Bar MAP sensor*
Corksport EBCS*
Treadstone Tr8 w/ RPM CX racing piping kit*
Suspension: Corksport Lowering Springs
Brakes: Still stock
Driveline: Sure Motorsports R6*
Sure Motorsports Juggernaut*
Sure Motorsports Dreadnaught*
Sure Motorsports shifter bushings*
Corksport weighted Black shift knob
Electronics: Cobb Accessport V3 w/ tune by Will at PD tuning*Purple Drank Tuning*
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 Old 08-08-2018, 10:36 AM   #2
 
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@Mazduhspeed6 ; My man, not trying to be rude but please, please, use the return key in your posts. Its really hard to read a wall of text.

Yes, the 07 and 06 transmissions are interchangeable. No issues. Don't buy new. Used is fine and hopefully you know some history on it before buying. If not its a shot in the dark.

As for the noise I wonder if its the throwout bearing? Don't matter since you're replacing the trans. Just a thought. What clutch are you going with? I recommend Southbend Stage 2 Endurance. Or the tried and true Luk with Fidanza combo if you're tight on funds and not pushing high torque numbers.

For the motor you are way over thinking it. I would get a CS Dankai (crazy expensive but Justin from Freektune just tuned one in a speed 3 to around 500whp IIRC. Vid on FB and he said it was the easiest tune he's ever done. Not a single hiccup.Ill post the link if I can find it.) or contact Speed Solutions, EBTEC, or Overspeed Motorsports. Not SP63.

Good luck with all of it!
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2007 MS6- H&R Coilovers/ C-PE Catted DP/Corksport HPFP Internals/ AEM CAI/ ETS TMIC/ CPE Austenite Dual CBE/ CPE TIH/ Synapse Synchronic/ Freektuned/ AP Short Shifter/ AWR RMM and OEM TMM with CS Inserts/ Southbend Stage 2 Endurance/Stop Tech Slotted Rear and DBA T3 4000 Series Front with EBC Reds/CPE xFlex Rear Diff Mount/ Whiteline Rear Sway Bar/DSS Level 2.9 Rear Axles

Last edited by Thor Hammer; 08-08-2018 at 11:18 AM.
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 Old 08-08-2018, 11:17 AM   #3
 
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https://www.facebook.com/freek.tune

Scroll down to Speed 3 in from NY on his newsfeed. Stage 2 CS block running a 6266 554hp/458tq. He's the man!
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 Old 08-08-2018, 11:53 AM   #4
 
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Ya gotta understand I am over thinking it for the motor cause I dealt with issues already with a rebuilt, so I am just trying to make the best decision this time. I had a rebuilt motor lose comp in less then 5k N then they replaced it and that one lost comp in less then 14k miles. So ya see after spending that kinda money it left a bad taste in my mouth as far as be cautious when it comes to motors.

As far as clutch I already have a brand new LUK clutch straight from edge which I over paid for but I wanted to make sure it was legit. Haven't had any issues as far as gear change, slippage, anything like that, the sound I am getting is within the transmission, believe me. Im not a genius or even an ASE certified mechanic, but I'm 32 and have been building and modding turbos since I was 17, so I have a few buttons...yippee.

Serious tho I appreciate the input, I figured it's kinda a shot in the dark but I also figured the lower the milage I can find the better my bet. So anyways i guess I'll scoop that up and keep mine and tear it down see what happened and rebuild it so it's good to go then. But yea my biggest concern is the motor, and making sure whatever I get it makes it past the break-in stage and hopefully can get 60 to 80k on it before serious issues.

The car itself is ready to be driven and it's already modded for what I am going to do, I may add a port injection or WMI. Ill prolly do CS cast Mani and throttle body just because I'm a crazy corksport freak just love their parts. Anyways, why do say no go to SP63, I have read alot of good reviews on here for them, it seems like every other person on here has a SP63 build in their sig, anyways...lemme know again ur thoughts.

Is this better with the returns...I did it when I first joined, it's hard habit to break after being out of school for 16+ years and not really needing to be grammar correct in my workplace. Okiedokie peace buds.
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2007 Mazda Speed6 GT
Power: rebuilt stock motor*
JBR full power path stage II intake w/JBR TIP*
ATP catted downpipe w/ second cat delete*
Corksport HPFP internals*
Corksport BeCuse injector seals*
Corksport Turbo*
Corksport 3.5 Bar MAP sensor*
Corksport EBCS*
Treadstone Tr8 w/ RPM CX racing piping kit*
Suspension: Corksport Lowering Springs
Brakes: Still stock
Driveline: Sure Motorsports R6*
Sure Motorsports Juggernaut*
Sure Motorsports Dreadnaught*
Sure Motorsports shifter bushings*
Corksport weighted Black shift knob
Electronics: Cobb Accessport V3 w/ tune by Will at PD tuning*Purple Drank Tuning*
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 Old 08-08-2018, 12:40 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Mazduhspeed6 View Post
Ya gotta understand I am over thinking it for the motor cause I dealt with issues already with a rebuilt, so I am just trying to make the best decision this time. I had a rebuilt motor lose comp in less then 5k N then they replaced it and that one lost comp in less then 14k miles. So ya see after spending that kinda money it left a bad taste in my mouth as far as be cautious when it comes to motors.

As far as clutch I already have a brand new LUK clutch straight from edge which I over paid for but I wanted to make sure it was legit. Haven't had any issues as far as gear change, slippage, anything like that, the sound I am getting is within the transmission, believe me. Im not a genius or even an ASE certified mechanic, but I'm 32 and have been building and modding turbos since I was 17, so I have a few buttons...yippee.

Serious tho I appreciate the input, I figured it's kinda a shot in the dark but I also figured the lower the milage I can find the better my bet. So anyways i guess I'll scoop that up and keep mine and tear it down see what happened and rebuild it so it's good to go then. But yea my biggest concern is the motor, and making sure whatever I get it makes it past the break-in stage and hopefully can get 60 to 80k on it before serious issues.

The car itself is ready to be driven and it's already modded for what I am going to do, I may add a port injection or WMI. Ill prolly do CS cast Mani and throttle body just because I'm a crazy corksport freak just love their parts. Anyways, why do say no go to SP63, I have read alot of good reviews on here for them, it seems like every other person on here has a SP63 build in their sig, anyways...lemme know again ur thoughts.

Is this better with the returns...I did it when I first joined, it's hard habit to break after being out of school for 16+ years and not really needing to be grammar correct in my workplace. Okiedokie peace buds.
Yeah but you bought the motor from Edge right? The ATK? There is no comparison from that motor to the builders I mentioned. That's what I meant.

I say no to SP63 as they have a history of very very long lead times to get your motor completed. Maybe not all, but some had to wait far too long. And no warranty if you install it yourself. No thanks.
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 Old 09-19-2018, 07:56 AM   #6
 
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If i were you, I would look into a 2010 cx7 motor.
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 Old 09-19-2018, 08:12 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by Losymis View Post
If i were you, I would look into a 2010 cx7 motor.
For what reason exactly?
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2007 Mazda Speed6 GT
Power: rebuilt stock motor*
JBR full power path stage II intake w/JBR TIP*
ATP catted downpipe w/ second cat delete*
Corksport HPFP internals*
Corksport BeCuse injector seals*
Corksport Turbo*
Corksport 3.5 Bar MAP sensor*
Corksport EBCS*
Treadstone Tr8 w/ RPM CX racing piping kit*
Suspension: Corksport Lowering Springs
Brakes: Still stock
Driveline: Sure Motorsports R6*
Sure Motorsports Juggernaut*
Sure Motorsports Dreadnaught*
Sure Motorsports shifter bushings*
Corksport weighted Black shift knob
Electronics: Cobb Accessport V3 w/ tune by Will at PD tuning*Purple Drank Tuning*
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 Old 09-19-2018, 08:27 AM   #8
 
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Same motor as the speed3 and speed6.. Alot cheaper..
Exactly what I did for both my 3 and 6. Saved me a bunch of $$
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 Old 09-19-2018, 12:30 PM   #9
 
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Mine came from a CX7. However, it doesn't have to be a 2010.
Any CX7 with the MZR DISI will work.
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Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
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Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle.
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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