register gallery
 

Go Back   Mazdaspeed Forums >
MAZDASPEED SECTION
>
Mazdaspeed 3/6 MZR Gen1 Forums (2006-2009)
> MazdaSpeed 6 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline


Welcome to Mazdaspeed Forums .

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

*When you join MSF as a registered user, there will be No Ads.

*Registered Members get access to the Off Topic Area of the Forum

*Registered Members have an opportunity to upgrade their accounts to VIP, which brings a host of goddies for supporting MSF such as Raffles, Additional Forum Access, More PM Storage, The ability to upload more Images and many other enhancements.

*Registered members also get access to the live chat box!
Like Tree1Likes
  • 1 Post By greg08
Reply
 
Bookmark and Share LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 Old 04-09-2018, 06:36 PM   #1
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Neutral  +1 score     
Default Couple questions with reinstalling head

I have the head removed from my speed 6. I ordered all the new parts. I decided to go from ARP2000+cometic gasket, back to OEM gasket and OEM headbolts. On the new headbolts (OEM) do I need to use any ARP ultra torque? or should I just install dry? And with the new crankpulley bolt, (OEM) Do I need ARP ultra torque? or loc-tite? I got 3 new washers from the crankshaft (oil pump and timing chain) Where exactly do those go? It's been so long.. I've been doing a lot of research, just want to be 100% sure. Don't want to slip timing <3
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-09-2018, 08:22 PM   #2
 
Fi5H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 58   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
Fi5H has much to be proud ofFi5H has much to be proud ofFi5H has much to be proud ofFi5H has much to be proud ofFi5H has much to be proud ofFi5H has much to be proud ofFi5H has much to be proud ofFi5H has much to be proud ofFi5H has much to be proud ofFi5H has much to be proud of
Thanks: 25
Thanked 26 Times in 13 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
Neutral  +1 score     
Default

The manual I don't think mentions lubing the head bolts, however to torque them you will need to do it in 5 passes from the inside out in a spiralling fashion. (for OEM head bolts)

Pass 1: 3-11nm
Pass 2: 13-17nm
Pass 3: 43-47nm
Pass 4: 88-92 degrees
Pass 5: 88-92 degrees

For the crank pull I don't use lube just tension 96-104nm then 88-92 degrees. DO NOT USE LOCTIT! It also goes friction washer, Oil pump cog, friction washer, timing cog, friction washer.

Personally I'd use OEM head gasket and ARP studs. Youll have to look up torque specs on the ARP website though.
__________________
2006 MPS6 Gray - GTX3071 turbo| 2XS turbo manifold| CPE 3” catted down pipe| Magna Flow 2.5” cat back| 2XS 3.5” one peace intake| HDI front mount intercooler| Turbo smart plumb back BOV| 3 bar map sensor| 3 port cobb boost solenoid| Auto Tech fuel pump| CPE injector seals| EGR delete (second and primary)| VTCS delete| JBR Thermal Insulating Gasket Intake Manifold| JBR Thermal Insulating Gasket Throttle Body| Throttle body coolant bypass| NGK LTR7IX-11 Spark Plug | Stretched coil pack springs| V3 Access Port.

98RON 350hp 361ftlb

Last edited by Fi5H; 04-09-2018 at 08:41 PM.
Fi5H is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Fi5H For This Useful Post:
greg08 (04-13-2018)
 Old 04-10-2018, 05:05 AM   #3
 
GroceryGtr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 406   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 106
GroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the world
Thanks: 0
Thanked 145 Times in 108 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

make a donation and get access to the VIP FSMs. They will have all the torque and assembly specs you need. There are also a few How-Tos on here as well. Search for VVT install as well as head as its essentially the same process(google search works the best). Make sure you read several, as each one will have some different ways of approaching and helpful advice to compile. Its a fairly straight forward job, but you need to be anal and take your time when lining everything up. Being off by more than a tooth could spell disaster.

As said above do the head bolts in 5-7 passes working from the inside out in a 'spiral' pattern. Again, the FSM is you friend for the actual sequence. You cannot do the job without the SSTs to lock the cams in place. You CAN get away without the flywheel SST(but you'll need the TDC pin to get and keep the crank lined up), by using a fan clutch wrench to hold the crank pulley while you torque it. Either wedge it against the ground, or better have a friend hold it. If the drivetrain is still in the car you can also put it in gear and stand on the brakes to hold the crank, though I still rec the pin to locate everything. The crank bolt requires a ton of torque so eat your wheaties beforehand. THis sucker is only held in time by friction so be exact and marke the bolt for the degree turn at the end.

I like to set/tighten the intake(right side) cam last as it allows you to take out any slack you may have on the chain due to tooth position. Though some will say vvt actuator position is important, the general consensus is that the position itself doesnt really matter. Now if you are reusing your old on(I highly suggest against unless its relatively new) then you'll want to mark it orientation with a sharpie and attempt to put it back on as close to original as possible. This is done more to appease the fickle mazda gods than actual science.
__________________
"Sarcasm and shit talking are two different things. MSF offers the best advice, just delivered by sarcastic pricks, with your best interest in mind." -ThePedigree13

Silver 06 MS6 - DD stealth build - no show, all go....
'12 Abarth Challenge Car - very loud, very fast, very inconvenient to drive on the street...

Last edited by GroceryGtr; 04-10-2018 at 05:27 AM.
GroceryGtr is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to GroceryGtr For This Useful Post:
MD1032 (04-10-2018)
 Old 04-10-2018, 10:02 AM   #4
 
shamie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: SLC, Utah
Posts: 863   (View Stats)
iTrader: (3)
Rep Power: 344
shamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the world
Thanks: 15
Thanked 480 Times in 272 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 3 Times in 3 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Only use ARP ultra torque when and where instructed to (on ARP fasteners). It is slicker than oil and will alter your torque readings.

I also would (and did) use OEM head gasket and ARP studs. You can reuse the studs where I wouldn't recommend reusing the OEM bolts.
__________________
2009 MGM MS3 - / HTP 3"/ COBB AP V3, FMIC, RMM, & DP / AT Internals / Manley Rods & Pistons / ARP studs & bolts / Koyorad radiator / DM PS Cooler & OCCs / ACT Clutch / Bilstein B16 / CS Camber Plates, Camber Arms, & Seals / JBR .125 RSB, 51R Battery Box & Raider's AD / StopTech Brakes
shamie is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-10-2018, 02:16 PM   #5
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

I had arp 2000 and cometic gasket. I'm going back to OEM gasket and OEM headbolts. The ARP2000s are weak compared to OEM from what I hear.. Also thank you for all the advice. I donated years ago. Life has been crazy. I'm broke as fuck, and now that I took the head off (while engine still in the car, which is really no that hard) I see that one of my valve seats is chipped, so I need to pay a machine shop to take it out and install a new valve seat I ordered from Speed performance, and I had to get 2 new valves too because they are chipped.. Money money moneyyy <3
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-10-2018, 04:35 PM   #6
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Honestly removing the head while it was still in the engine bay wasn't very hard at all. Just sucks I have some damage to one of the valve seats and 2 of the valves. So I will need to bring into a machine shop and have them remove/install new seat and machine a bit
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-11-2018, 05:06 AM   #7
 
shamie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: SLC, Utah
Posts: 863   (View Stats)
iTrader: (3)
Rep Power: 344
shamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the world
Thanks: 15
Thanked 480 Times in 272 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 3 Times in 3 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by greg08 View Post
The ARP2000s are weak compared to OEM from what I hear.
Total BS if you ask me. If properly torqued either is fine and comparable. I would just rather torque a nut on a stud than torque a bolt then turn it a specified number of degrees. I have torque wrenches but no degree wheels. And if money is that tight you can reuse the ARPs.
__________________
2009 MGM MS3 - / HTP 3"/ COBB AP V3, FMIC, RMM, & DP / AT Internals / Manley Rods & Pistons / ARP studs & bolts / Koyorad radiator / DM PS Cooler & OCCs / ACT Clutch / Bilstein B16 / CS Camber Plates, Camber Arms, & Seals / JBR .125 RSB, 51R Battery Box & Raider's AD / StopTech Brakes
shamie is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-11-2018, 09:42 AM   #8
 
Fstrnyou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Near Charlotte NC
Posts: 1,430   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 228
Fstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the world
Thanks: 37
Thanked 386 Times in 290 Posts
Groans: 12
Groaned at 5 Times in 4 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

You can always reuse the ARPs if the threads look good and they aren't stretched, which won't happen if they were previously torqued properly and they weren't exposed to head lifting.
__________________
2006 MS6 GT - 152k Miles
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22's
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Russian Bushings in Back, Magnaflow CBE
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/Stage 2 OCC
Puppy Power tuning temporarily suspended.
Forged build ongoing. Manley H-Tuff & 2618, King Bearings

Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Parts Getter
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So, in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44) apex seals said buh bye!
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
Fstrnyou is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-11-2018, 12:43 PM   #9
Eth Fiend
 
phate's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Auburn Hills, MI
Posts: 6,832   (View Stats)
iTrader: (10)
Rep Power: 11120
phate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the world
Thanks: 14,790
Thanked 21,559 Times in 5,811 Posts
Groans: 7
Groaned at 17 Times in 14 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

You noobs should do some reading.

Crank slip? maybe easy fix.

Retorque your head studs!

Originally Posted by greg08 View Post
I have the head removed from my speed 6. I ordered all the new parts. I decided to go from ARP2000+cometic gasket, back to OEM gasket and OEM headbolts. On the new headbolts (OEM) do I need to use any ARP ultra torque? or should I just install dry? And with the new crankpulley bolt, (OEM) Do I need ARP ultra torque? or loc-tite? I got 3 new washers from the crankshaft (oil pump and timing chain) Where exactly do those go? It's been so long.. I've been doing a lot of research, just want to be 100% sure. Don't want to slip timing <3
DO NOT use loctite.

I recommend getting new crank gears, though. That has been suspected as a point of slip in rebuilds, since they get a small depression from the friction washer when they're torqued.


ARP ultra torque, I'd do it on the crank bolt. The head bolts, since they are torqued to such a low value before TTA, likely won't make a difference in overall angle. So no, I've not used it on head bolts.
__________________
-06 MS6
-Corn fed 07 MS3 - Sold



www.mazdamotorsports.com <<--Mazda racer support program that is free to join and will save you a ton of money.

Last edited by phate; 04-11-2018 at 12:44 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
phate is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to phate For This Useful Post:
Db09ms3 (04-11-2018)
The Following User Says NO Thank You to phate For This Un-useful Post:
greg08 (04-13-2018)
 Old 04-11-2018, 01:49 PM   #10
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by phate View Post
You noobs should do some reading.

Crank slip? maybe easy fix.

Retorque your head studs!



DO NOT use loctite.

I recommend getting new crank gears, though. That has been suspected as a point of slip in rebuilds, since they get a small depression from the friction washer when they're torqued.


ARP ultra torque, I'd do it on the crank bolt. The head bolts, since they are torqued to such a low value before TTA, likely won't make a difference in overall angle. So no, I've not used it on head bolts.


Umm, buddy I've read every single page of those threads, and I've been on this as long as you.. But yea, I've read everything. I just want to be very sure.. SORRY FOR WANTING TO BE SAFE MY BAD <3

Originally Posted by shamie View Post
Total BS if you ask me. If properly torqued either is fine and comparable. I would just rather torque a nut on a stud than torque a bolt then turn it a specified number of degrees. I have torque wrenches but no degree wheels. And if money is that tight you can reuse the ARPs.
The whole reason i'm doing this is because the arp2000s let my cometic headgasket blow through to all cylinders. My car had no compression because the gasket was so shot.. My head did lift.

Last edited by greg08; 04-11-2018 at 01:49 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-11-2018, 01:54 PM   #11
Eth Fiend
 
phate's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Auburn Hills, MI
Posts: 6,832   (View Stats)
iTrader: (10)
Rep Power: 11120
phate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the world
Thanks: 14,790
Thanked 21,559 Times in 5,811 Posts
Groans: 7
Groaned at 17 Times in 14 Posts
Neutral  -1 score     
Default

Originally Posted by greg08 View Post
Umm, buddy I've read every single page of those threads, and I've been on this as long as you.. But yea, I've read everything. I just want to be very sure.. SORRY FOR WANTING TO BE SAFE MY BAD <3



The whole reason i'm doing this is because the arp2000s let my cometic headgasket blow through to all cylinders. My car had no compression because the gasket was so shot.. My head did lift.
I would argue the ARP's are stronger, they just need retorqued. That means retiming the engine...no thanks.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
__________________
-06 MS6
-Corn fed 07 MS3 - Sold



www.mazdamotorsports.com <<--Mazda racer support program that is free to join and will save you a ton of money.
phate is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to phate For This Useful Post:
greg08 (04-11-2018)
 Old 04-11-2018, 01:57 PM   #12
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Well that's probably why my head lifted and I blew my gasket. I never retorqued them after I got my engine built..

I'm just going with OEM gasket and OEM headbolts. I had arp2000s and cometic gasket, and it failed on me. I don't want to risk anything, and OEM will hold to 500hp. (which is the max i'll be going ever)

Last edited by greg08; 04-11-2018 at 01:57 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-11-2018, 02:23 PM   #13
 
Fstrnyou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Near Charlotte NC
Posts: 1,430   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 228
Fstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the world
Thanks: 37
Thanked 386 Times in 290 Posts
Groans: 12
Groaned at 5 Times in 4 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

CS Dankai 1 is rated for 525hp and it uses OEM head bolts.
__________________
2006 MS6 GT - 152k Miles
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22's
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Russian Bushings in Back, Magnaflow CBE
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/Stage 2 OCC
Puppy Power tuning temporarily suspended.
Forged build ongoing. Manley H-Tuff & 2618, King Bearings

Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Parts Getter
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So, in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44) apex seals said buh bye!
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
Fstrnyou is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-11-2018, 06:36 PM   #14
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

yea i'm going with OEM for sure. No point in risking it with these arp headstuds
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-12-2018, 06:10 AM   #15
 
KiwiFlavor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Somersworth, NH
Posts: 2,388   (View Stats)
iTrader: (5)
Rep Power: 838
KiwiFlavor is the leader of the worldKiwiFlavor is the leader of the worldKiwiFlavor is the leader of the worldKiwiFlavor is the leader of the worldKiwiFlavor is the leader of the worldKiwiFlavor is the leader of the worldKiwiFlavor is the leader of the worldKiwiFlavor is the leader of the worldKiwiFlavor is the leader of the worldKiwiFlavor is the leader of the worldKiwiFlavor is the leader of the world
Thanks: 5,501
Thanked 1,508 Times in 918 Posts
Groans: 17
Groaned at 6 Times in 5 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Just throwing this out there,

I have brand new head bolts that Im planning to sell since I changed my mind and went Freek head studs.
__________________
2012 NASA Spaceship Gray MS3

BNR S3 - JBR Tru 3.0" - CP-E TMIC - Corksport catless DP - Corksport catted race pipe - Forge V2 - Autotech internals + AP v3 - Swift springs - Enkei RPF1 17x9 + 45 (5mm JBR spacers in the front) - Freektune 320/346
KiwiFlavor is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to KiwiFlavor For This Useful Post:
greg08 (04-13-2018)
 Old 04-12-2018, 03:20 PM   #16
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

I would have bought them from you, but I already ordered a few days ago. Thank you though <3
KiwiFlavor likes this.
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to greg08 For This Useful Post:
KiwiFlavor (04-13-2018)
 Old 04-13-2018, 05:23 PM   #17
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

I've had people tell me the ARP2000s are the reason cometic gasket blows out in between cylinders and lifts, and I've had people say the cometic gasket is the weak part, but honestly, i'm just going OEM. It's enough to hold 500hp , that's enough for me because I don't want to go for port injection. I just want some 50/50 meth at some point.
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-14-2018, 03:53 PM   #18
 
LenSpeed6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Western Mass
Posts: 64   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 12
LenSpeed6 is just really niceLenSpeed6 is just really niceLenSpeed6 is just really niceLenSpeed6 is just really niceLenSpeed6 is just really nice
Thanks: 5
Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Huh I would have thought that arp would be the way to go, I have both main and head studs that I'm putting in my engine.
__________________
06 Speed6
White/Black interior
Sure Diff Mounts, JBR Intake, JBR I/C Hoses, Wiesco pistons .5mm over, Molnar H-Beam Rods, King bearings, New to me Cylinder Block
Soon: CS turbo, CS HPFP, CS Fuel Line, CS Injector Seals, CS EBCS, AP v3 and some more stuff....


To think... this is suppose to be my winter car... because,

'72 AMC Javelin AMX 366 CI, 4speed 13.13 quickest 1/4 mile et so far

'12 1/2 Triumph Daytona 675R stock some how
LenSpeed6 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-14-2018, 04:59 PM   #19
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

The ARP2000s need to be retorqued after like 200 miles or something. Which I didn't know or do, and my head lifted and blew my headgasket. Be careful, or go with OEM headstuds for safety. Or used "freektune" headstuds or whatever. The ARP2000s are known to be unreliable.
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-14-2018, 05:36 PM   #20
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by phate View Post
You noobs should do some reading.

Crank slip? maybe easy fix.

Retorque your head studs!



DO NOT use loctite.

I recommend getting new crank gears, though. That has been suspected as a point of slip in rebuilds, since they get a small depression from the friction washer when they're torqued.



One more thing. Do the Camshaft bolts need to be replaced as well, or just the washers?

ARP ultra torque, I'd do it on the crank bolt. The head bolts, since they are torqued to such a low value before TTA, likely won't make a difference in overall angle. So no, I've not used it on head bolts.

One more thing. Do the Camshaft bolts need to be replaced as well, or just the washers?
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to greg08 For This Useful Post:
phate (04-16-2018)
 Old 04-14-2018, 05:47 PM   #21
Eth Fiend
 
phate's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Auburn Hills, MI
Posts: 6,832   (View Stats)
iTrader: (10)
Rep Power: 11120
phate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the world
Thanks: 14,790
Thanked 21,559 Times in 5,811 Posts
Groans: 7
Groaned at 17 Times in 14 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by greg08 View Post
One more thing. Do the Camshaft bolts need to be replaced as well, or just the washers?
Just the washers. Those bolts don't get torqued to yield.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
__________________
-06 MS6
-Corn fed 07 MS3 - Sold



www.mazdamotorsports.com <<--Mazda racer support program that is free to join and will save you a ton of money.
phate is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-14-2018, 06:47 PM   #22
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by phate View Post
Just the washers. Those bolts don't get torqued to yield.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Ok thats what I thought. Thank you very much.. Would a little loctite be a bad idea on them?
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to greg08 For This Useful Post:
phate (04-16-2018)
 Old 04-15-2018, 06:36 AM   #23
Eth Fiend
 
phate's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Auburn Hills, MI
Posts: 6,832   (View Stats)
iTrader: (10)
Rep Power: 11120
phate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the worldphate is the leader of the world
Thanks: 14,790
Thanked 21,559 Times in 5,811 Posts
Groans: 7
Groaned at 17 Times in 14 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by greg08 View Post
Ok thats what I thought. Thank you very much.. Would a little loctite be a bad idea on them?
Just assume that you should never loctite anything. Clean threads and proper torque are what you need (and a new friction washer, in this case).

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
__________________
-06 MS6
-Corn fed 07 MS3 - Sold



www.mazdamotorsports.com <<--Mazda racer support program that is free to join and will save you a ton of money.
phate is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-15-2018, 07:12 PM   #24
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by phate View Post
Just assume that you should never loctite anything. Clean threads and proper torque are what you need (and a new friction washer, in this case).

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Ok, thank you sir.
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to greg08 For This Useful Post:
phate (04-16-2018)
 Old 04-19-2018, 12:59 PM   #25
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Since i'm having head work done (replacing a valve seat that was damage) I was told I should replace my exhaust valve seals. I ordered 8. Was only 45 bucks. I guess it's a good idea? I don't see anything wrong with the old ones, but maybe it's a good idea?
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-19-2018, 01:00 PM   #26
 
Fstrnyou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Near Charlotte NC
Posts: 1,430   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 228
Fstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the world
Thanks: 37
Thanked 386 Times in 290 Posts
Groans: 12
Groaned at 5 Times in 4 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Good insurance to have fresh seals since it's apart. Do the intake too while you're at it
__________________
2006 MS6 GT - 152k Miles
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22's
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Russian Bushings in Back, Magnaflow CBE
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/Stage 2 OCC
Puppy Power tuning temporarily suspended.
Forged build ongoing. Manley H-Tuff & 2618, King Bearings

Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Parts Getter
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So, in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44) apex seals said buh bye!
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
Fstrnyou is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-19-2018, 06:20 PM   #27
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Good insurance to have fresh seals since it's apart. Do the intake too while you're at it
Very true. I got OEM exhaust seals. but the OEM intake seals are even more money. I'm wondering if I should go with supertech intake seals instead?

I'm confused. Don't the speed 6 and speed 3 use the same valve seals for intake and exhaust side? If not, why are the Super tech one size for both?

Last edited by greg08; 04-19-2018 at 06:20 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-19-2018, 06:29 PM   #28
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Should I get this set?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...11&jsn=9&jsn=9


or use OEM exhaust seals and these intake seals ? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...&jsn=11&jsn=11
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...11&jsn=9&jsn=9

So many choices gaahhhhhh. I just don't want to spend 60 dollars on OEM intake seals..

These seals would be good for stock intake valves?

https://edgeautosport.com/supertech-...d-3-2007-2013/

Last edited by greg08; 04-19-2018 at 06:29 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-19-2018, 07:30 PM   #29
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Good insurance to have fresh seals since it's apart. Do the intake too while you're at it

Let me know what intake valve seals you recommend (other than fel-pro, and OEM)
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-19-2018, 08:05 PM   #30
 
Fstrnyou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Near Charlotte NC
Posts: 1,430   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 228
Fstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the world
Thanks: 37
Thanked 386 Times in 290 Posts
Groans: 12
Groaned at 5 Times in 4 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

I bought all OEM gaskets and seals for my rebuild.
__________________
2006 MS6 GT - 152k Miles
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22's
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Russian Bushings in Back, Magnaflow CBE
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/Stage 2 OCC
Puppy Power tuning temporarily suspended.
Forged build ongoing. Manley H-Tuff & 2618, King Bearings

Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Parts Getter
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So, in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44) apex seals said buh bye!
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
Fstrnyou is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Fstrnyou For This Useful Post:
greg08 (04-19-2018)
 Old 04-19-2018, 08:18 PM   #31
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

shelling out 60 bucks for OEM intake seals doesn't seem worth it. I don't even think the intake valve seals take a beating do they? I figure the exhaust seals are the only ones that ever go.

but the head does have 78k on it, so I should change them.

Last edited by greg08; 04-19-2018 at 08:18 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-19-2018, 08:23 PM   #32
 
Fstrnyou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Near Charlotte NC
Posts: 1,430   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 228
Fstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the worldFstrnyou is the leader of the world
Thanks: 37
Thanked 386 Times in 290 Posts
Groans: 12
Groaned at 5 Times in 4 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Ya, I'm rebuilding an engine with unknown miles/history, so I'm replacing everything.
__________________
2006 MS6 GT - 152k Miles
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22's
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Russian Bushings in Back, Magnaflow CBE
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/Stage 2 OCC
Puppy Power tuning temporarily suspended.
Forged build ongoing. Manley H-Tuff & 2618, King Bearings

Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Parts Getter
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So, in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44) apex seals said buh bye!
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
Fstrnyou is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Fstrnyou For This Useful Post:
greg08 (04-19-2018)
 Old 04-19-2018, 08:30 PM   #33
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

nice. Yea my funds are tight, so I need to find the best choice for decent price. Thanks for your help buddy.
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-20-2018, 12:50 PM   #34
 
GroceryGtr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 406   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 106
GroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the worldGroceryGtr is the leader of the world
Thanks: 0
Thanked 145 Times in 108 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

IF you are doing the exhaust seals do the intake seals. They man not see the heat cycles as intense but they sure as heck see the same friction wear from going up and down. 95% of the cost is the labor to get to them, so if you are looking to smartly use a limited budget this would be a long-term positive investment. Infact if you are already pulling the head you need to just suck it up and get a basic head job in addition to the valve replacement. Here is what I would specify for a basic job(assuming you have a lot of miles on yours).

*All new seals - I went oem, as many others do.
*Basic valve job - This ensures a good valve seat/seal and is just common sense. Skip the fancy upgrades, a 3 angle is all you need
*Springs - OEM unless you are running some crazy cam combo. These are cheap and if you are going to pull them to test them you might as well just replace them. They get softer over time and again its a labor save.
*Decking - If your head lifted any decent shop is going to throw a machine level on it and recommend atleast a pass to guarantee flatness. Be very careful as most, if not all, the subscription services for deck height are wrong. they all list the NA specs instead of hte turbo ones. If this head is original and isn't warped then a very light pass should be just fine. I used to have the measurements, but I'd have to go digging through my pile of random notes to find it. If they need to take over say .004"(IIRC) then you may need a thicker HG. Whatever it was I know that unless you really warped it a first time level job shouldnt cause interference issues. Just make sure you keep the before and after specs in the event you need to have it done again.


On the HG note, I've never had a problem with a cometic HG, granted I went OEM for this build as my HP goals were within the limits. For the ARPs as phate pointed out the issue isn't the strength of the studs, its the fact they need to be retorqued, which very few people ever do. Hence the HG usually gets the blame. I went oem because my power goals were within the limits and moreso I didn't want to go through the hassle of having to retorque the damn things and then wonder months later if it needed to be done again.
__________________
"Sarcasm and shit talking are two different things. MSF offers the best advice, just delivered by sarcastic pricks, with your best interest in mind." -ThePedigree13

Silver 06 MS6 - DD stealth build - no show, all go....
'12 Abarth Challenge Car - very loud, very fast, very inconvenient to drive on the street...
GroceryGtr is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 04-20-2018, 02:09 PM   #35
 
greg08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 460   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
greg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond reputegreg08 has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks: 15
Thanked 98 Times in 77 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 21 Times in 14 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by GroceryGtr View Post
IF you are doing the exhaust seals do the intake seals. They man not see the heat cycles as intense but they sure as heck see the same friction wear from going up and down. 95% of the cost is the labor to get to them, so if you are looking to smartly use a limited budget this would be a long-term positive investment. Infact if you are already pulling the head you need to just suck it up and get a basic head job in addition to the valve replacement. Here is what I would specify for a basic job(assuming you have a lot of miles on yours).

*All new seals - I went oem, as many others do.
*Basic valve job - This ensures a good valve seat/seal and is just common sense. Skip the fancy upgrades, a 3 angle is all you need
*Springs - OEM unless you are running some crazy cam combo. These are cheap and if you are going to pull them to test them you might as well just replace them. They get softer over time and again its a labor save.
*Decking - If your head lifted any decent shop is going to throw a machine level on it and recommend atleast a pass to guarantee flatness. Be very careful as most, if not all, the subscription services for deck height are wrong. they all list the NA specs instead of hte turbo ones. If this head is original and isn't warped then a very light pass should be just fine. I used to have the measurements, but I'd have to go digging through my pile of random notes to find it. If they need to take over say .004"(IIRC) then you may need a thicker HG. Whatever it was I know that unless you really warped it a first time level job shouldnt cause interference issues. Just make sure you keep the before and after specs in the event you need to have it done again.


On the HG note, I've never had a problem with a cometic HG, granted I went OEM for this build as my HP goals were within the limits. For the ARPs as phate pointed out the issue isn't the strength of the studs, its the fact they need to be retorqued, which very few people ever do. Hence the HG usually gets the blame. I went oem because my power goals were within the limits and moreso I didn't want to go through the hassle of having to retorque the damn things and then wonder months later if it needed to be done again.

Thank you. I appreciate it!
greg08 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Couple of questions Bucket head 2010 MS3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline 10 02-28-2012 07:53 PM
couple BT questions ryein7 MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Turbo Induction 12 09-16-2011 08:53 AM
Couple of questions vladny1 Mazdaspeed3/6 General Discussion 9 12-17-2010 03:04 AM
Couple of questions Turok Appearance - COSMIC BLUE 3 03-23-2010 02:35 PM


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:31 AM.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
vB.Sponsors
Template-Modifications by TMS
©Copyright 2008 ; 2014 Cymru Internet Services LLC | FYHN™ Autosports HQ
Ad Management plugin by RedTyger
Page generated in 0.45430 seconds with 27 queries