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 Old 09-07-2012, 05:19 PM   #1
 
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Default flushing some advice please

hey i was looking to flush my coolant and and im not sure what was used by the previous owner, anyways im gonna use mazda's fl22 and just keep running water through it till its clear or get some flush chems'? and also mazda fl22 says not to add water but draining it with water could this be a problem if so how do i ensure all the water is out!?!

thanks
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 Old 09-07-2012, 06:49 PM   #2
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Drain, flush with tap water, then refill with anything (peak, prestone,etc)

Are you one to flush/drain once a yr or so? If so the direction above is fine.

The Maz fluid is meant for ppl that wait 3-4 yrs b4 draining/flushing.

I've been running 75w/25c and have no ill effects. Use common sense and judgement, you will be fine.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 06:54 PM   #3
 
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no just doing it because i says to, should i use something else(better)? just owrried about water sitting around somewhere when refilling it with fl22
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 Old 09-07-2012, 07:02 PM   #4
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Nope, should be fine as long as most of it is out. I think that is why most run full maz fluid because they get pananoid.

What year and mileage?
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 Old 09-07-2012, 07:14 PM   #5
 
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remember if u add water to the mix, used distilled water
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 Old 09-07-2012, 07:32 PM   #6
 
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FL22 is already 45% water. Says so on the bottle. You're told not to add water because FL22 comes prediluted.


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 Old 09-07-2012, 07:36 PM   #7
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Ugh.. Wrong section.. Please pay attention to the area you post threads in. Thanks
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 Old 09-07-2012, 07:53 PM   #8
 
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70k 07

thanks guys and sorry wrong area this why i am a brownie right :P
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 Old 09-07-2012, 08:42 PM   #9
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They're saying don't ADD water as to dilute it.

Just flushing the old crap and having a bit of residual water, not so much an issue.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 08:48 PM   #10
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You paged me?
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 Old 09-07-2012, 08:50 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by doubleflusher View Post
You paged me?
Originally I thought the same

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 Old 09-07-2012, 09:04 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by p057 View Post
They're saying don't ADD water as to dilute it.

Just flushing the old crap and having a bit of residual water, not so much an issue.
got it

have you guys ever filled it up with water and plugged it back up and turned it over and ran the heat to fully clear it without having problems? i dont think it be the best idea to be mixing coolants! or running the car on just water.

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 Old 09-07-2012, 09:47 PM   #13
 
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how are you guys doing a full flush? i figure the old coolant could become trapped in other parts of the cooling system such as the heater core, radiator and / or oil cooler. i would always use tap but this may cause problem while running the car with the heat on to clear it.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 10:20 PM   #14
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Yes you run the heater on during the flush process, then drain again.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 10:25 PM   #15
 
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i think im going to just run coolant for a flush, im so paranoid about damage untill its clear being the coolant's capacity is only being 7.5L
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 Old 09-07-2012, 11:57 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by nsdva View Post
i think im going to just run coolant for a flush, im so paranoid about damage untill its clear being the coolant's capacity is only being 7.5L
Huh? Water works best... Drain as much coolant and fill to max with water. Also drain the resevoir. Start the car with the heater on. Drain again... Add distilled water and start the motor. When it comes up to temp(fan will kick on), remove the drain plug from the radiator and add distilled water with the engine running. Add water at he same rate its draining. Continue until it runs clear.

Once it's clear, shut the motor off and allow the rest of the water to drain. Once drained, cap the drain plug and start adding the coolant. You could premix it or add it raw. Once it tops off on the radiator, fill up the resevoir with coolant. Leave the cap off and start the motor. This will do two things.. 1) allows the coolant to circulate and mix the new coolant and 2) pushes the air out. Add more and more coolant.. Don't forget to burp the system by squeezing the radiator hoses. Once you can't add anymore coolant, cap it and go for a drive. Come back and top it off. I usually add a bottle of water wetter when I refill.
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 Old 09-08-2012, 05:24 AM   #17
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Adding water wetter with most coolants will "gel" your shit up over time.

Of course if you anal.
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 Old 09-08-2012, 08:42 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by pzr2874 View Post
Adding water wetter with most coolants will "gel" your shit up over time.

Of course if you anal.
What the hell are you talking about? That is complete and utter bullshit
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 Old 09-08-2012, 07:53 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by Haltech View Post
What the hell are you talking about? That is complete and utter bullshit
LOl

thanks for the info im gonna go with you word on this one!
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 Old 09-08-2012, 08:26 PM   #20
 
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A engine machining teacher at UNOH (a school with a pretty extensive high performance program) once told me that he swears by adding 1 tbsp of pine sol to his coolant. Said it works just like water wetter. He also said that you could use a dash of dish detergent instead of other additives because it breaks down the surface tension of the water and helps promote better cooling. Anyone ever heard of any of this? I kinda wanna try it out, this dude was straight old school and owns some pretty impressive cars.

Ps, sorry for the minor thread jack.
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 Old 09-08-2012, 08:56 PM   #21
 
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but im using fl22 it say do not add water flushing with water makes this complicated!!
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 Old 09-08-2012, 09:46 PM   #22
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Coolant (most) mixed with water wetter WILL cause (gumming/gel)

Silicates in the coolant will cause this when mixed with WW (for coolants with silicates)

WW is meant as a WATER additive, not a coolant additive.

This is the coolent ppl should be using : http://shop.edoperformance.com/evans...FWVgTAod9QYAfw

Shameless plug as i've been using it for 2 yrs on this platform. But IMHO if you do your flushes every yr, there isn't a need for it.
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 Old 09-08-2012, 09:52 PM   #23
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Come look at my coolant... There's no "gel" or "gumming" and ive been using it since 1990 when it was availbe only in crystal form then requiring dilution with water and filtration via cheesecloth before adding to coolant.


*Reduces or eliminates bubbles or vapor barrier that form on hot metal surfaces to reduce coolant temperatures by up to 20°

*Superior heat transfer properties compared to glycol-based antifreeze

*Compatible with new or used antifreeze (including DEX-COOL and long-life versions) to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems

*Improves heat transfer and reduces cylinder head temperature
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 Old 09-08-2012, 09:59 PM   #24
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You sexy beast, i'm not going to come look at it.

I've seen BS on the webz is all. And seen the gumming. Like I said, with some/most coolants.... The silicates mixed with the WW is where they had the issues.

Here's where I get my fluid info

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1255926
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 Old 09-08-2012, 10:16 PM   #25
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I've never had negative effects from using it with coolant. I use it exclusively in my water to air intercoolers which is distilled water and ww.
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 Old 09-09-2012, 08:29 AM   #26
 
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.... anyone use fl22 here...
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 Old 09-17-2012, 04:26 AM   #27
 
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i flushed with FL22.

step one: empty coolant.
Step two: fill with water (distilled if your scared)
step three: run engine until thermostat opens, flushing the cores and block.
step four: empty.
step five: refill with fl22, straight from bottle.
step six: run until heater core opens and leave uncapped. (just burped the system)


FL22 is good for about 100,000 ISH miles. I changed mine at 50k.

they say dont add water because it dilutes the coolant which lowers the boiling point. a couple ounces of water in the black
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