Mazdaspeed 6 Performance Mods List

[Bratschist]

Now I'm the one who need's help. I'm gathering some money for mods and meanwhile I decided to make a list of mods I wanted to do on my car. I just would like to post it out here so I could get some feedback from people, maybe some suggestions too, however, I first have to ask, please don't post anything stupid or say things without explaining why you think that way.

Anyways, I attached a file with my ideas and here are some explanations.

In the priority column, there is usually a two digit number. the first digit is the general priority or categorical priority, so for example, a performance item with priority 1x comes before a show item with priority 2x.

The second digit on the number is the specific priority within a category, for example a header would come before the turbo so 11 for header and 12 for turbo.

Finally, there might be a letter after the numbers which only means the items should be bought at the same time, but one is more important than the other.

Also, there are hyperlinks on both the part names (which will direct you to the part picture) and on the seller's website (which will direct you to the selling page)

[greenespeed]

Do you really need a turbo timer? And if you are planning to go BT you might want to bump the diff mounts up or you'll make 400+ front wheel hp cause your rear will exclude itself from the car. You might want to consider a full exhaust at some point also as it will end up being the restriction. ( or just use your cut out ) And you can get hood struts for a Jeep cherokee for less than half the cost of the redline tuning ones.

[Stealth01]

Yeah, you need to do the diff mounts BEFORE you do power mods. Both stockers break under stock power levels. And while you're at it, do an RSB at the same time to save work.

Are you going big turbo? Didn't see it on the list, but if you aren't, there's no reason to go forged as long as you have an HPFP and a good tune.

[greenespeed]

BT is #13 on the list.

[Bratschist]

Thanks, ill deft look into the rear diff mount. And for the turbo, I am planning on going BT. Also I need to clarify a couple things. I forgot to put on this list but I am definitely planning on doing the intake manifold porting. Also, the forged internals might not be something I REALLY want to do. Even though it is on the list it is just an idea. If I can go by without them I will. My car is approaching 100k soon(ish) I am at 84 and I plan to do the turbo and some big mods at 100k just because I will also have the chance to "clean" the engine (and by clean I mean work on it to make it last a long time). So, there are a couple little things that I plan on doing too that I didn't put on the list, like changing some gaskets for the SURE ones, doing the injector seals, and so on. I am currently processing the idea of doing balance shaft delete. I still need some info on that. I sure want my car faster but I want it safe too. As for the exhaust, I have the cut out and that works very well. I deleted both cats so I basically have it straight pipe now. The flow should be ok. The only restriction I have in the moment is the stock exhaust manifold. I'll be tuning the car soon because the afr is not spot on, also I believe I will get more juice out of it. The next thing i want to do is the header, but money is kind of running away from me at the moment so I have to be patient, but I'm expecting to have lots of changes for next summer. I hope to be very busy on my car over the winter. Well, I know its kind of q long text, but its out there and it's nice to have some people to talk to about this. So to all, thanks for participating.

[Bratschist]

Oh, I forgot, I don't need a turbo timer, but it would be nice to have one, that's why I put it under miscellaneous, bc its not something necessary, like the camera. On a side note, I only want the camera bc I want to prove to my friends (who almost never believe me) that I beat the cars I did lol. (like Porsche Cayman, modded srt 4, challenger r/t, tl type-s, and some others I don't recall) Please, no judgements on that last part, everyone has their reasons.

[greenespeed]

No gripe with the camera, although I'd look into a gopro instead. If you are going BT at 100k I would definately go forged internals ( aftermarket ). I really see no reason for a turbo timer on these cars as they are set up but it's your car. A custom tune is going to be a must. And when you say that you want to do the header next what are you referring to?

[Matx]

Add an AP

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Originally Posted by Matx Add an AP

he already has an AP.

i agree with others that you should do the diff mounts before adding power. i still havent gotten around to doing mine but because of that i dont launch at all. kinda missing out in some of the awesomeness of AWD but id rather not risk it for now.
turbo timer is a waste of money unless you would rather not wait 30 seconds or drive easy for 30 seconds before you turn off your car.
you also wont see too much benefit on the k04 with getting an upgraded EBCS. if you do push an extra pound of boost up top it will be hot air so not a big difference. on a BT then def its worth it.
theres so much on the list i may post more later.

[mczimer]

If you are planning on consistently launching your car, you will need the diff mounts, otherwise skip them. Also, launching is about the harshest thing you can do to this car, and you will more than likely be needing to swap out your axles, among other things, soon enough, especially with a BT.

I would also skip the CS FMIC and build your own, as it is more efficient and a hell of a lot cheaper.
Also, I recommend you do preventative maintenance before doing anything further:
Clean valves, EGR delete, OCC, replace PCV, swap all fluids, see Noob Thread and fluid notes from TiGraySpeed6 for specifics

[Monotonous ONE]

things

[Stealth01]

Originally Posted by mczimer If you are planning on consistently launching your car, you will need the diff mounts, otherwise skip them.

Disagree completely. I wasn't launching my car when my front mount bolts sheared. My wheels slipped on ice then grabbed on dry asphalt. Same thing could happen on sand, water, etc.

Do the Diff mounts whether you're launching or not, and do them first. Skipping steps because they aren't sexy or don't add power is how you will end up with broken axles, diff casings, etc.

[TiGraySpeed6]

or at least strap the rear diff.
several folks around, like myself, that don't launch, have been running strapped for years without even a loose bolt.

to be clear, real mounts are the best. the question is, do you install the rear sway bar while installing the mounts, or do you install the mounts because you're up there installing the rear sway....

if you do nothing with it you will have trouble, guaranteed

[breakfstincluded]

how come you don't like to buy things from edgeautosport lol

[Bratschist]

Originally Posted by greenespeed No gripe with the camera, although I'd look into a gopro instead. If you are going BT at 100k I would definately go forged internals ( aftermarket ). I really see no reason for a turbo timer on these cars as they are set up but it's your car. A custom tune is going to be a must. And when you say that you want to do the header next what are you referring to?

I mean buying the CPE and put it on. It's like I'm doing a BT little by little

Originally Posted by fivefingerdeathpunch he already has an AP. i agree with others that you should do the diff mounts before adding power. i still havent gotten around to doing mine but because of that i dont launch at all. kinda missing out in some of the awesomeness of AWD but id rather not risk it for now. turbo timer is a waste of money unless you would rather not wait 30 seconds or drive easy for 30 seconds before you turn off your car. you also wont see too much benefit on the k04 with getting an upgraded EBCS. if you do push an extra pound of boost up top it will be hot air so not a big difference. on a BT then def its worth it. theres so much on the list i may post more later.

I am ready for the consequence of my next statement but I'm already running 18-20 psi and it makes a huge difference, so idk what you mean, in all honesty.

[Bratschist]

Originally Posted by mczimer If you are planning on consistently launching your car, you will need the diff mounts, otherwise skip them. Also, launching is about the harshest thing you can do to this car, and you will more than likely be needing to swap out your axles, among other things, soon enough, especially with a BT. I would also skip the CS FMIC and build your own, as it is more efficient and a hell of a lot cheaper. Also, I recommend you do preventative maintenance before doing anything further: Clean valves, EGR delete, OCC, replace PCV, swap all fluids, see Noob Thread and fluid notes from TiGraySpeed6 for specifics

Idk if it isn't clear enough in the list but I already have the cs fmic. Also, maintenance is not a problem, I already know about those things. The occ is something I am debating about because i have a air filter in the breather and that will keep the oil out of the system. Changing fluids is something I do always, even more often than necessary. The egr will be done soon and so will the pcv. But thanks anyways.

Originally Posted by breakfstincluded how come you don't like to buy things from edgeautosport lol

I actually only found out about that website recently, so I haven't really looked a lot, but those are the best prices I have found around.

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Originally Posted by Bratschist I mean buying the CPE and put it on. It's like I'm doing a BT little by little I am ready for the consequence of my next statement but I'm already running 18-20 psi and it makes a huge difference, so idk what you mean, in all honesty.

up top. meaning top end. the k04 cant hold that 18-21psi. you may get that on the low end but then itll drop boost like a mofo. mine goes from 21psi to like 16 by redline. an ecbs on the k04 may let you get 21psi down low then 17/18 psi by redline. but that extra couple pounds of boost is HOT air. its a limit of the k04... it just cant flow enough air to hold that boost up top so its out of its efficiency range and heats up real quick.

[Bratschist]

That makes sense, I will log the boost air temp at 14, 18, and 20 OSI across the rpm range and post it just to see what's going on. Also, as you said it drops by redline, but I actually set it to be lower by feline anyways, I put my AP to be around 16 psi by 6500 ish just because I am not that daring.

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Originally Posted by Bratschist That makes sense, I will log the boost air temp at 14, 18, and 20 OSI across the rpm range and post it just to see what's going on. Also, as you said it drops by redline, but I actually set it to be lower by feline anyways, I put my AP to be around 16 psi by 6500 ish just because I am not that daring.

well people will set it to taper because the k04 will naturally do it anyway and they want the map to be consistent with what it is actually doing. you should see that your WGDC is at 99(maxed out) up top so there really isnt much more you can do to help the poor guy

[Bratschist]

I see, also, I was going over the list yesterday and noticed that I already have the Diff mounts there, so that is already on the project. the only thing is, I might buy it before anything else. For a couple of reasons: first because so many of you are telling me it is important and I also looked it up, and yeah... should do that... also, I was searching about it and how to install it and it seems quite challenging, which is good. One of the reasons I do mods in my car is because I enjoy doing them, and the more challenging they are, the more I enjoy. Of course some stuff I can't do because of either lack of exp or lack of tools, like it is the case with forged internals, but everything else is cool. So, I might try to do it before the winter, i. e., within the next 2 months. We'll see. And when I do it, I will try to make a full walk-through video, as I haven't found ANY online. Just to be clear, I'm talking about the Juggernaught and the Dreadnaught.

While I'm at it, does anyone suggest doing anything else? Is there anything else I should do since I'll have the diff out?

[TiGraySpeed6]

If you're going in for mounts, do the RSB while you're up there. Might have been on your list already, but worth mentioning just cause it's a PITA job getting up there, so might as well do both the mount & bar at once

[Bratschist]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 If you're going in for mounts, do the RSB while you're up there. Might have been on your list already, but worth mentioning just cause it's a PITA job getting up there, so might as well do both the mount & bar at once

What brand do you suggest? is there any difference between them? which one do you have?

[Bratschist]

Here is a little update

[bstover17]

Over $3000 spent and you couldn't even donate $25. I bet you could cut some costs in half by going vip and buying used or using the 10% off sure products code.

[Bratschist]

Im sure of that, but since I'm not doing anything for at least 2 months that could wait. where does the money go to anyways? I don't know much about this donation thing. would you like to elaborate a little?

[bstover17]

You would be donating to the website that provided you all of this awesome information. Haltech runs this site ad free and the only way to pay for hosting fees is through donations. He also does raffles you can be a part of after getting vip status as well as the used marketplace and nsfw area if you like porn lol. It's well worth $25. Also I you have a nator in your area they should be able to help you with your build so you don't have to spend 3gs on install.

[TiGraySpeed6]

Agreed- the info & manuals here are worth way way more than the donation.

I've been a donating member here since I joined in 2009, even tho I really only started actively posting about a year ago.

Less cost than an Alldata subscription or the like, and 10 times more information, more accurate and real world verified. Worth it.



Anyway, to answer your question, if I were to pull the trigger on mounts & RSB today, I'd get mounts from SURE and a Whiteline RSB, and I'd contact Edge Autosport first for the best pricing.

[greenespeed]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 Anyway, to answer your question, if I were to pull the trigger on mounts & RSB today, I'd get mounts from SURE and a Whiteline RSB, and I'd contact Edge Autosport first for the best pricing.

Is there a solution yet on the Whiteline RSB hitting the Sure mount?

[TiGraySpeed6]

wasn't aware that there was an issue- haven't been paying any attention since I'm not planning to install any time soon....

Don't launch, so straps only for me. When I do finally do the install, it'll be the RSB, and the mounts simply cause I'm in there for the RSB. Can't afford all that, and don't /need/ any of it....

[greenespeed]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 wasn't aware that there was an issue- haven't been paying any attention since I'm not planning to install any time soon.... Don't launch, so straps only for me. When I do finally do the install, it'll be the RSB, and the mounts simply cause I'm in there for the RSB. Can't afford all that, and don't /need/ any of it....

apparently it's only an issue with the new versions of the mount. the V1 has no issues.

[mczimer]

Don't fix what aint' broken?

[6ixof1]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 or at least strap the rear diff. several folks around, like myself, that don't launch, have been running strapped for years without even a loose bolt. to be clear, real mounts are the best. the question is, do you install the rear sway bar while installing the mounts, or do you install the mounts because you're up there installing the rear sway.... if you do nothing with it you will have trouble, guaranteed

What does running strapped mean? How is it done? BTW I'm looking to get a Juggernaut soon.

[TiGraySpeed6]

Strapping is old school, the ghetto approach to keeping the diff pointing in the right direction from back before mounts even existed.

Diff Strapping 101 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum

I've been strapped for 4 years, and haven't even had a bolt get loose, much less a mount issue. I'm a momentum driver tho. If you're a launcher, you need real mounts.

Best to think of strapping as a way to hold out till you can afford real mounts.