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 Old 07-19-2011, 05:08 PM   #1
 
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Default MS6 Rear diff mounts

What are some signs that the rear diff mounts are broke? I am having some vibration issues when accelerating in 2nd gear. Is this a common issue with broken diff mounts? When your diff mounts broke, what problems did you experience?
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 Old 07-19-2011, 05:12 PM   #2
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pics?
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 Old 07-19-2011, 05:15 PM   #3
 
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I don't have any pics. I am trying to diagnose my vibration issue.
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 Old 07-19-2011, 06:14 PM   #4
 
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youre gonna have to get dirty and look for problems yourself. check all your motor mounts, tranny mount, then go check your rear diff mounts. check the bolts with a small mirror if you have to.
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 Old 07-19-2011, 06:20 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by jroc View Post
youre gonna have to get dirty and look for problems yourself. check all your motor mounts, tranny mount, then go check your rear diff mounts. check the bolts with a small mirror if you have to.
and take pics while you're down there.
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 Old 07-19-2011, 06:37 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by jroc View Post
youre gonna have to get dirty and look for problems yourself. check all your motor mounts, tranny mount, then go check your rear diff mounts. check the bolts with a small mirror if you have to.
Yeah, I know, I am just trying to isolate the issue by having you guys point me in the right direction. Is there a link to where all the mounts are located so I dont forget to check any?

Originally Posted by karl hungus View Post
and take pics while you're down there.
If I can locate the issue, I will take a pic of it.
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 Old 07-19-2011, 06:49 PM   #7
 
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on top of the tranny underneath the battery tray = tranny mount.
on passenger side, connecting the subframe to engine = passenger mount
underneath engine, looks like a metal dog bone, on the middle back of engine = rear engine mount.


on top of rear diff = upper rear diff mount
on the side hanging down = front diff mount
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 Old 07-19-2011, 06:55 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by jroc View Post
on top of the tranny underneath the battery tray = tranny mount.
on passenger side, connecting the subframe to engine = passenger mount
underneath engine, looks like a metal dog bone, on the middle back of engine = rear engine mount.


on top of rear diff = upper rear diff mount
on the side hanging down = front diff mount
Thanks! Regarding the tranny mount, can I access/tighten bolts from under the battery tray or just check for issues?
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 Old 07-19-2011, 06:59 PM   #9
 
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i highly recommend you take out the battery/battery tray. your hands and back will thank you for it.

you can barely see the tranny mount bolt underneath the tray. iirc, its a 17mm bolt that faces the front of the car going towards the back of the car.

if you see any rubber pieces hanging off, get a new tranny mount
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 Old 07-19-2011, 07:24 PM   #10
 
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It may be necessary to remove the mounts for proper inspection.

Honestly though, this car greatly benefits from upgraded mounts.

A more thorough explanation of the vibes your getting would help us help you.
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 Old 07-19-2011, 09:12 PM   #11
 
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If your rear diff front mount is broken (mine was), you'll hear a clunking from the rear of the car when you start moving. That you can inspect easily, since the bolts are on the passenger side of the rear diff casing and are most commonly what breaks. Look like this:



You can see the sheared bolts and the empty brace (black) above it.

WHile under there, you can also inspect the rear diff TOP mount arms. They look like this:



You should be able to run your hand over most of that mount (it has arms on both sides of the diff) and see if you can find any cracks, breaks, etc.

But I don't think vibrations are common for the rear diff top mount breaking either. Some folks have had no symptoms, others have felt some clunking. OThers have broken axles lol.
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 Old 07-20-2011, 08:41 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by Mistersix View Post
It may be necessary to remove the mounts for proper inspection.

Honestly though, this car greatly benefits from upgraded mounts.

A more thorough explanation of the vibes your getting would help us help you.
This is best explanation I can give for the vibes I am getting: After I shift into second gear (at about 4500 rpms in 1st gear) I get vibes in my accelerator pedal and dash in second gear as I pull from 3000-4000 rpms under moderate to heavy acceleration. This is the only time I get the vibes. I replaced the RMM, but still have the issue which is why I am asking if a broken rear diff mount could cause the vibes that I am experiencing.
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 Old 07-20-2011, 08:32 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by needforspeed6 View Post
This is best explanation I can give for the vibes I am getting: After I shift into second gear (at about 4500 rpms in 1st gear) I get vibes in my accelerator pedal and dash in second gear as I pull from 3000-4000 rpms under moderate to heavy acceleration. This is the only time I get the vibes. I replaced the RMM, but still have the issue which is why I am asking if a broken rear diff mount could cause the vibes that I am experiencing.
That doesn't sound diff mount-ish to me. That sounds tranny-ish. Anyone?
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 Old 04-20-2012, 11:51 AM   #14
 
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[QUOTE=Stealth01;944322]If your rear diff front mount is broken (mine was), you'll hear a clunking from the rear of the car when you start moving. That you can inspect easily, since the bolts are on the passenger side of the rear diff casing and are most commonly what breaks. Look like this:



You can see the sheared bolts and the empty brace (black) above it.

QUOTE]

Hello, I seen you guys are talking about the sheared bolts in the rear diff mount. I currently have this probloem and was wondering what the best way to get those sheared bolts out? Also should I replace the bolts or go with an aftermarket brace to stop this from happening again? Thanks in advance!
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 Old 04-20-2012, 11:59 AM   #15
 
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[quote=akwayne54;1372094]
Originally Posted by Stealth01 View Post
If your rear diff front mount is broken (mine was), you'll hear a clunking from the rear of the car when you start moving. That you can inspect easily, since the bolts are on the passenger side of the rear diff casing and are most commonly what breaks. Look like this:



You can see the sheared bolts and the empty brace (black) above it.

QUOTE]

Hello, I seen you guys are talking about the sheared bolts in the rear diff mount. I currently have this probloem and was wondering what the best way to get those sheared bolts out? Also should I replace the bolts or go with an aftermarket brace to stop this from happening again? Thanks in advance!
well after getting the bolts out YES, definitely get some stiffer mounts so this doesn't happen again.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 12:33 PM   #16
 
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Best way to get them out is a pair of needle-nose pliers or whatever you can use to grip the stubs that are sticking out. If it's recessed, you'll need a bolt extractor. Good luck.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 03:37 PM   #17
 
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Thanks for the advice! i was hoping i would be able to get them out today but unfortunately i ran out of time before work. i think i'm going to have to suffer with the stock bolts for now but the dreadnaught and juggernaught are now on my future wish list. I also read there a two different oem bolts available, is this true?
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 Old 04-21-2012, 10:31 AM   #18
 
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OP, did you ever figure out what your vibration was? I am experiencing something similar. Vibration in 2nd gear only, above 3000 rpm, only when accelerating quickly.
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 Old 04-22-2012, 08:24 AM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by akwayne54 View Post
I also read there a two different oem bolts available, is this true?
THere are upgraded ones and the originals. I don't know the part numbers, but they won't matter without an upgraded mount. If you simply go with harder bolts, you risk cracking the diff casing instead of shearing the bolts.

Get the mounts and install them at the same time. Peace of mind is worth it.
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 Old 04-27-2012, 12:13 AM   #20
 
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I just thoughtI would give a little update. I've tried just about everything I can think of to get the bolts out with no luck. I'm going to pull off that front casing so I can actuallytry an extractor. Is there anything I should do or look for while I'm in there? I also plan on taking tons of pics and maybe even doing a step by step if that Would be helpful to anyone else.
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 Old 04-28-2012, 02:33 AM   #21
 
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ouch, this was one of the first mods anyone should do to this car modded or not. good luck with those bolts might be easy to take the case to a shop, took mazda 4 days to get bolts outta my first ms6
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 Old 04-28-2012, 11:11 PM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by akwayne54 View Post
I just thoughtI would give a little update. I've tried just about everything I can think of to get the bolts out with no luck. I'm going to pull off that front casing so I can actuallytry an extractor. Is there anything I should do or look for while I'm in there? I also plan on taking tons of pics and maybe even doing a step by step if that Would be helpful to anyone else.
I'm currently stuck in the same situation, I'll be waiting on your write up on taking the front diff case off. Or maybe I'll do a write up if you haven't already in the next couple of weeks (still waiting for my pmm and diff mounts).
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 Old 05-01-2012, 05:42 PM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by akias View Post
OP, did you ever figure out what your vibration was? I am experiencing something similar. Vibration in 2nd gear only, above 3000 rpm, only when accelerating quickly.
No, unfortunately I never figured it out. It got a little better after I had my tires balanced, but vibes are still there. Let me know if you figure it out.
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 Old 05-06-2012, 08:09 PM   #24
 
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Damn, I feel lucky. I had my sheared bolts out in about 10 minutes with vice grips and a set of pliers.
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 Old 10-17-2012, 04:30 PM   #25
 
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Can also try welding a shorter bolt to those stubs, then using a ratched to get it all out. Takes 5 mins... if you have a welder.
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 Old 12-13-2012, 12:19 PM   #26
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subd for later
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 Old 01-17-2013, 01:41 PM   #27
 
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i have a question. Last month i did a semi launch. Broke something in the rear diff because i heard a loud snap/bang. While driving the car home it felt like the rear diff was loose because it was clunking around in the rear. i no doubt broke the rear diff mounts but along with the clunking noise i was getting a lot of a grinding noise. Could breaking the rear diff mounts also cause these grinding noises? Like a metal on metal noise similar to when your break pads wear down to nothing.

I know its been a month but since it happened before christmas i had to wait to fix it. I will be taking it to someone next month when i have more money.
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 Old 01-17-2013, 02:21 PM   #28
 
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^ sounds bad. I would be too paranoid to drive my car with that kinda possible dmg and noise going on. Im shocked you havent at least lifted the rear to see if you could see any obvious dmg so you could at least order parts yourself. Best of luck getting it done, i suggest ASAP. :P Are you pushing more power or stock-ish?

i was doing 0-60 pulls but she felt solid. this thread is making me feel paranoid lol.
Mebe time to upgrade pre-emptively! I had some nasty shakes last month, it turned it it was just one of my stock mounts that busted its nut all over the place, liquid capsule popped. Replaced it, and felt solid again... Also, time for solid mount upgrades eh? heh.
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 Old 01-17-2013, 04:09 PM   #29
 
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Might have broken the rear dif casing itself get under and look
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 Old 01-18-2013, 06:19 AM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by batou079 View Post
^ sounds bad. I would be too paranoid to drive my car with that kinda possible dmg and noise going on. Im shocked you havent at least lifted the rear to see if you could see any obvious dmg so you could at least order parts yourself. Best of luck getting it done, i suggest ASAP. :P Are you pushing more power or stock-ish?

i was doing 0-60 pulls but she felt solid. this thread is making me feel paranoid lol.
Mebe time to upgrade pre-emptively! I had some nasty shakes last month, it turned it it was just one of my stock mounts that busted its nut all over the place, liquid capsule popped. Replaced it, and felt solid again... Also, time for solid mount upgrades eh? heh.
i haven't touched the car since it happened. I will go out to start it once a week but i haven't driven the car since the incident. When the weather gets warmer i plan to take a look with a buddy. The speed 6 isn't my daily driver so i can live without it and save money to then order the parts. i am in no rush during the winter season since i don't drive it normally.

As for if i am pushing more power? At the time of the incident i was on my 8th tune with Jason ( boost_creep ) I was just about to start my E85 tuning as well. So i would say the car was pushing a lot more power over stock.
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 Old 01-18-2013, 06:59 AM   #31
 
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Axle maybe, with that grinding sound....
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 Old 01-18-2013, 07:28 AM   #32
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Yup, people have fucked their rear axles after failure of the diff mount(s). The sound may indicate this is the case for you. If so, that sux bro, its not going to be cheap to fix. This is why I rarely launch my car.
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 Old 01-18-2013, 08:04 AM   #33
 
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i'm fully mounted with SURE mounts and i still dont launch my car..

but that's why i'm known as Tampa-NATOR's "captain slow"
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 Old 01-18-2013, 09:00 AM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by smokeys36shop View Post
i haven't touched the car since it happened. I will go out to start it once a week but i haven't driven the car since the incident. When the weather gets warmer i plan to take a look with a buddy. The speed 6 isn't my daily driver so i can live without it and save money to then order the parts. i am in no rush during the winter season since i don't drive it normally.

As for if i am pushing more power? At the time of the incident i was on my 8th tune with Jason ( boost_creep ) I was just about to start my E85 tuning as well. So i would say the car was pushing a lot more power over stock.
gotcha, glad to hear its not your daily. im sure its nagging you everyday you see it in the garage about working on it. :P 8th tune eh? You dyno recently, or have any virtual dyno #s ?

Ya, those rear diffs of ours. Axle failure i have read about from various guys doing repeated launches from a dig. Vroom, CRACK, CLUNK, *grind grind grind grind*... I badly want a rear diff mount upgrade as well, but frankly i only make 2-3 parts purchases a year, the AP being the first big one this year. i definitly drive my card a bit too hard for daily driving, luckily the only persistent issue has been power steering pump/lines leakage... just sprung another one recently lol.

Had a rear axle seal pop a few months into ownership back in 09, replaced it with a buddy and thankfully not a single related issue so far. *knocks on wood*
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 Old 01-18-2013, 09:39 AM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by batou079 View Post
gotcha, glad to hear its not your daily. im sure its nagging you everyday you see it in the garage about working on it. :P 8th tune eh? You dyno recently, or have any virtual dyno #s ?

Ya, those rear diffs of ours. Axle failure i have read about from various guys doing repeated launches from a dig. Vroom, CRACK, CLUNK, *grind grind grind grind*... I badly want a rear diff mount upgrade as well, but frankly i only make 2-3 parts purchases a year, the AP being the first big one this year. i definitly drive my card a bit too hard for daily driving, luckily the only persistent issue has been power steering pump/lines leakage... just sprung another one recently lol.

Had a rear axle seal pop a few months into ownership back in 09, replaced it with a buddy and thankfully not a single related issue so far. *knocks on wood*

dyno numbers? nope. Virtual dyno numbers? i would have to ask jason what he was seeing. The day i took the car out was the strongest its ever felt in my opinion. Just sad it broke when it did. Oh well shit happens and im just saving money to have it all fixed. The reason i haven't jumped into it yet is because i plan on doing both rear diff mounts from Sure and a rear sway bar. Right there is $700. Then i have to pay someone to install it along with maybe an axel as well. All said and done i am looking close to $1300 all the way to $2000 for everything most likely. Its sad being my car only has 23,800 miles on it. Guess the car didn't enjoy its new power. Maybe because i don't drive it enough

With that said i am in the same boat as you. The wife and i will be buying a house this year and saving for that is also important as well. So after i do this fix i wont be buying anything else this year. i had hoped to get my turbo early this year but shit like this happens so its gonna have to wait a while.

batou079 ....you the same guy from the mazda247 forum? i haven't talked to you nor been to that site in ages. Glad to see you have your car and are still modding it.
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 Old 01-18-2013, 10:04 AM   #36
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Also, I dont think there is a set "limit" to how much power these mounts can take. Example: I've seen stock MS6s have this issue, yet Im making a bajillion times more tq than a stock 6, am still on my stock mounts and haven't had an issue. If anything Id say its how you drive the car versus how much power you make.
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 Old 01-18-2013, 10:28 AM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by smokeys36shop View Post
i plan on doing both rear diff mounts from Sure and a rear sway bar. Right there is $700.
If you do those three together, make sure to get a different rear rear diff mount than the SURE v2 mount. Get the CPE one or the older SU one because they aren't as thick and don't get in the RSB's way.

IF you do decide to get the v2 anyways, get RSB adjustable endlinks to preload the bar some and stop the two parts from smacking into each other.
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 Old 01-18-2013, 11:15 AM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by smokeys36shop View Post
dyno numbers? nope. Virtual dyno numbers? i would have to ask jason what he was seeing. The day i took the car out was the strongest its ever felt in my opinion. Just sad it broke when it did. Oh well shit happens and im just saving money to have it all fixed. The reason i haven't jumped into it yet is because i plan on doing both rear diff mounts from Sure and a rear sway bar. Right there is $700. Then i have to pay someone to install it along with maybe an axel as well. All said and done i am looking close to $1300 all the way to $2000 for everything most likely. Its sad being my car only has 23,800 miles on it. Guess the car didn't enjoy its new power. Maybe because i don't drive it enough

With that said i am in the same boat as you. The wife and i will be buying a house this year and saving for that is also important as well. So after i do this fix i wont be buying anything else this year. i had hoped to get my turbo early this year but shit like this happens so its gonna have to wait a while.

batou079 ....you the same guy from the mazda247 forum? i haven't talked to you nor been to that site in ages. Glad to see you have your car and are still modding it.
Dyamn so LOW miles and these issues? Sorry to hear it! Aint willing to do the work yourself? HAHA i do not blame you, dropping the rear subframe in our cars is freaking painful. And new turbo, wow... Stock replacement for a busted one? Or going big turbo, i assume...

Ya man thats me, i stopped going there for ages cause well, it died. I was an MS6 mod even, but lost my mod status cause i hadn't logged on for like a year, LOL!!! 2012 was mostly repairs and maintenance, i had lots of catching up to do to get her in shape for another year of modding. So 2013 is back to mods. :P I even pulled the trigger to donate here, almost exclusively to get on the FOR SALE section... which i got my Cobb AP from the very same day i donated. MSF is good to me. I been back to posting various comments on m247 (waiting for m247 hate posts, haha) just to help answer all those unanswered MS6 posts...

Originally Posted by Caligula View Post
Also, I dont think there is a set "limit" to how much power these mounts can take. Example: I've seen stock MS6s have this issue, yet Im making a bajillion times more tq than a stock 6, am still on my stock mounts and haven't had an issue. If anything Id say its how you drive the car versus how much power you make.
Aye, i know that past a certain torque rating it is suggested to upgraded to reinforced mounts is all. And it is definitly a big factor in how you drive it, launching every so often, probably not a big deal. Launching hard everyday, especially with higher than stock torque... probably risky in the long run.
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 Old 01-18-2013, 11:35 AM   #39
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agreed. I need to upgrade but it sounds like u know why I havent done that yet lol.
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 Old 01-18-2013, 04:10 PM   #40
 
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Live a little and launch that car, it wants to be driven. As long as you launch correctly you should be fine. I've launched the car plenty of times and the stock mounts are holding up strong and at 86k on the car!
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