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 Old 03-22-2018, 10:39 PM   #1
 
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Default Trans shifting issues....

Hey I have a question....just got this car last Thursday and the trans does something weird. first off it will shift to every gear and holds great....no clutch slippage or anything but the issue I'm having is upshift or down shifting the trans doesn't go into gear until engine rpm and trans rpm match for that gear...meaning downshifting requires revmatch & double clutch to go into gear. speedshifting is out of the question because of this.
I was told about the clutch pedal bracket cracking being an issue of these cars but ive checked mine and its good....
also checked clutch pedal freeplay and adjusted in and no change...
I'm planning on bleeding the hydro system for the clutch this weekend but visually the slave and clutch master are dry.
anyone have any suggestions or encounter this b4?? is there anything else I should check?
Thx in advance
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 Old 03-24-2018, 06:56 AM   #2
 
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I too have been experiencing the same issue. I find the car shifts fine if I keep the revs low. Once I go above 3500-ish, then the trans starts to lock me out at any rpm.

Ive replaced the slave and rebuilt the master. I am about to pull the transmission shortly, but seeing as this is just my summer car I am not in a hurry yet. I am theorizing an issue with the throwout bearing or clutch fork bent. If the clutch is worn enough I plan to go Fidenza/Luk.

Do you have lots of play in the clutch fork? To me it seems the clutch isnt disengaging enough and there is still some drag happeneing.

What year/model do you have? I think there are some differences in clutch pedal between cars.
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 Old 03-24-2018, 10:54 AM   #3
 
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Same issue here... adjusting shifter linkage helped a little for shifting but not for the clutch drag issue. I've also REPLACED everything outside of the trans housing to no avail.
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 Old 03-24-2018, 11:11 AM   #4
 
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I have an 06 MS6 touring...has 130K...no idea on if clutch has been done recently or not...mine to feels like clutch isn't disengaging completely...at a 5mph roll of u go from neutral to 1stgear or 2nd u can feel a slight shutter come up the driveline which tells me it's still connected ever so slightly
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 Old 03-24-2018, 11:19 AM   #5
 
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Does anyone know of a similar slave cyl that has a longer throw than ours that would bolt up??
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 Old 03-24-2018, 12:59 PM   #6
 
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A guy could also shim with some round stick cut down and a welder too I was thinking... In a pinch
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 Old 03-24-2018, 01:07 PM   #7
 
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That still wouldn't fix the issue. Just bandaid it.

There could be a mechanical problem such as linkage or hydraulics.
Could also be a warped clutch disc. I've even considered broken pressure plate fingers.

That's why I think I need to pull the trans and get a look. With the way I use this car, bandaids aren't an option.

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 Old 03-24-2018, 02:39 PM   #8
 
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Well yeah I'm saying i could remedy the issue for short term...I'd still make plans to take it apart to check internal clutch parts
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 Old 03-24-2018, 08:39 PM   #9
 
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First check for a shift plate to see if that is fucking you up.

If you have clutch drag from a bad slave then just replace the slave dont weld shit to it ffs. If you extend the slave travel your gonna have a bad time. Remember hydraulics are stronger then metal (as long as seals hold ). The disk will burn up if you put more preload on the clutch fork by shimming it out.... I would be more inclined to say you may need some new fluid. Depending on the PO "if ya cant find it grind it" attitude you may have bent shift forks/fucked syncros.
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 Old 03-24-2018, 09:58 PM   #10
 
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What I were saying is if the clutch fork is bent a guy could try to shim the fork back to the correct throw to get him by until he could get to taking it apart...obviously u wouldn't want to use this as a permanent fix....its more or less to say yeah that's shot and u know where the problem is...
The trans doesn't grind either it just doesnt go into gear until the trans and engine match speed...feels the same as if ur floating gears if that makes sense.
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 Old 03-26-2018, 04:27 PM   #11
 
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Default eureka!?!

Took some shit apart. Im leaning towards the TOB coming detached from the release arm.
I will be cracking the engine/trans apart to look for possible damage. I didnt put a lot of mileage on before parking it last fall...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZ8s...ature=youtu.be
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 Old 03-26-2018, 06:13 PM   #12
 
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I may be pulling mine apart soon too....I'm thinking I may slap a clutch set in mine. Found I have the good old TOB chatter starting on mine....and I might do a timing set and gasketswhile its apart...maybe more depending on comp numbers...post if u find anything when u split urs
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 Old 03-26-2018, 11:22 PM   #13
 
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Before you go pulling the transmission- save some potential time and headache:

1. Go to an empty parking lot. Pull the parking brake as hard as you can. Put your right foot on the brake, push the clutch in and shift into 6th gear. Then pop the clutch. If the car stalls immediately, the clutch is fine.

2. Find a buddy. Have them sit in the car with the clutch pedal pushed in, and have them rev the engine to about 3000 and hold it there for about 5 mins. If the clutch were not disengaging, you’ll smell the burning trash can.

3. Change the fluid. Honestly, I should list this as number one but I’m too far into this already and lazy. The synchros in this transmission stick when the fluid is old, or cold. Especially 1st and 2nd gear. The magic elixir? Get Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS manual transmission fluid. It’s fully synthetic 75w90, and 3 quarts of it will likely run you around $75. But it is so WORTH IT. The transmission shifts like butter into every gear, at any RPM, and you’ll notice it more the more miles you drive.

If you do decide to tear it apart and replace the clutch, the LuK RepSet kit for this car is great.
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 Old 03-28-2018, 06:42 PM   #14
 
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Good tips...i still need to check the slave cyl on mine but I was thinking on changing fluid out....
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 Old 05-06-2018, 12:35 PM   #15
 
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UPDATE...

Finally got time to pull the transmission. I found that my throwout is making noise and is awfully loose. I also noted that there is a possibility that the DM flywheel is shot. Hoping some of the MSF Sensei can verify.

Truth be told Im all ok with a Fidenza/Luk going in, wife...well not so much HaHa!

https://youtu.be/HTydUJyc7RQ
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 Old 05-07-2018, 04:12 PM   #16
 
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According to the repair manual...
You should not be able to slide the 2 sections any further than 3 teeth...I got 4.
You should not have more then 1.5mm deflection in the 2 section...I got 2mm.
For a daily driver or a farm tractor...Id run it, but for my car Im going to do the Fidenza/Luk and hopefully that will solve the issue. Ive also purchased a stainless braided clutch line to replace the OEM flex hose.

@DaredevilMS6, did you ever get anything sorted out?
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 Old 08-18-2018, 06:08 AM   #17
 
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Finally got around to pulling the clutch out. Have all the parts to install a new LuK/Fidanza setup.

Looks like the pressure plate self adjusted prematurely? Before I noticed shifting issues I had a FFS go bad, maybe!?! Figured all was good as the car felt normal for a while, Im going with that.

The release bearing was failing and about to start making a lot of noise.
The friction disc was starting to wear smooth on the outer portion of the friction surface while the inner portion still had texture.
Flywheel and pressure plate had slight hot spot discoloration.

In the end, I think the clutch was dragging which put strain on the system and I was slowly experiencing clutch flambe in the making. I hope to button everything up this week and do a shakedown run next weekend.
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 Old 08-18-2018, 11:18 PM   #18
 
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Good to hear....I'm 90% sure that's my issue with mine....still drivable and I'm lucky if I put on 100 miles in a month so as soon as our house purchase is done mine is going under the knife for some maintenance
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