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 Old 11-29-2009, 01:54 AM   #1
 
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Default What should i upgrade first?

I just bought an 07 Mazdaspeed6 GT. I want to start upgrading it. Nothing to crazy. its gonna be used for daily driving, not racing. ive read through a lot of the threads to see what upgrades people are getting and what brands. So far Ive decided to start with a CPE CAI and downpipe. I've thought about upgrading my catback exhaust, but i dont like big noise. I heard that the stock catback is the quietest. Is there much power loss from leaving my CBE stock? Is there a better CBE that is quieter than the stock one? also, whatelse should i upgrade next to increase power? What about ignition? what brands are good? how much hp gains could i expect? Any advice you guys can give me would be appreciated. Thanks!
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 Old 11-29-2009, 03:28 AM   #2
 
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Streetunit.com is a site where you can find alot of aftermarket parts for the MS6. As for the first upgrades, along with the CAI, a rear motor mount would also be recommended. You'd get pretty noticeable gains from the CAI, too. The CAI was my first mod along with the motor mount.
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 Old 11-29-2009, 05:39 AM   #3
 
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buy a gt3076
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 Old 11-29-2009, 05:39 AM   #4
 
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cobb accessport, cold air intake, turbo inlet, catback if you want sound. If you want to go really fast, i would suggest not going catless until you upgrade the turbo. Last time i checked, the PCV system fixes out there are still not working so if you get a downpipe, your turbo will backup with oil and start smoking. On an aftermarket unit, that is not a factor.

personally, if it were me, dont waste your money on intakes and all the bolt on stuff for the stock turbo, get the cobb and just upgrade your fuel pump internals, get the GT30 mentioned above in a turbo kit (custom dp, intake, etc) tune it, and your set.

Another thing you can do to help out the speed 6 (i had the speed 6 too) is to lighten it up. Lightweight rims/tires, a good clutch and a lighter flywheel and see if someone out there makes a carbon fiber drive shaft... anything you can do to lighten that heavy GT model
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 Old 11-29-2009, 10:04 AM   #5
 
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i say for DD, i would go with intake, MM, BOV, TIP, and a DH or AP to help monitor. you should be good with those mods for a DD.
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 Old 11-29-2009, 06:58 PM   #6
 
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motor mount for sure. start with the dogbone from AWR.
AWR Racing, Inc. - ENGINE MOUNT, MAZDASPEED6 REAR LOWER

an upgraded TMIC makes a nice difference. ETS and street unit make one.

if your serious about puttin your car on a diet you could also consider a carbon fiber hood and light weight battery. that would take some weight off the front.
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 Old 11-30-2009, 03:01 PM   #7
 
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I am still a noob here, but based on what I have gathered from the many posts and my previous car experiences the best starting points on this car is the Downpipe and cold air intake. Let it take in the air better and get it into the exhaust easily. Since these are the most restrictive parts on the car even with stock cat-back you will see a noticeable difference. These are also fairly inexpensive and bolt up simply. I think upgrading the top mount intercooler would be an good step as well - if you were going to be racing it should be a FMIC instead of TMIC upgrade. These are my plans as well only I plan on getting a boost gauge/controller as well so I know what I am pushing too.

If you have the tools, which I do, performing port work on the stock turbo and exhaust manifolds is where I was looking to do. Getting the sand casting lines out and especially opening up the wastegate hole is a welcome power addition and may help gas mileage as well.

This is the first I have heard of the motor mount upgrade. Interesting...
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 Old 11-30-2009, 03:28 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by SpeedSixxx View Post
buy a gt3076
thats a small turbo


gt6041 FTW
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 Old 12-01-2009, 07:46 AM   #9
 
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if your not looking to go crazy with your car, you might just want to go with the CAI and not the down pipe. It is a huge pain to install and if you go catless you will have to swap it for emissions inspections. The motor mount is a good idea, so would be an inlet pipe and a new bpv/bov. The stock one tends to leak under boost. I got the hks ssqv, it is awesome. For the exhaust you can put on a test pipe which will leave one cat or just go with the cat-back.
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 Old 12-01-2009, 09:58 AM   #10
 
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I'm suprised no one has mentioned a short shifter. I thought the stock throws were extremely long and a pain for quick starts between gears 1 and 2.
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 Old 12-01-2009, 10:01 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by SpeedSixxx View Post
buy a gt3076
i knew you were in denial. you regret buying your 71 and your trying to make sure no one else makes the same mistake. DONT buy turbos when ur drunk. They might not be what u thought they were

Op. your first mod should be a Avatar

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 Old 12-09-2009, 12:07 PM   #12
 
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If a reasonably fast daily driver is what your going for do the following:

1. intake (cobb or cpe)
2. cobb turbo inlet
3. catback
4. cobb AP
5. motor mount
6. short throw
7. denso plugs
8. turbosmart or forge BPV

Downpipe is more of a major upgrade. If your still under warranty stay away from the DP or any other major mods as mazda won't think twice about voiding your warranty.
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 Old 12-09-2009, 12:10 PM   #13
 
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... AAAND FMIC
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 Old 12-09-2009, 12:34 PM   #14
 
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stay stock.
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 Old 12-09-2009, 12:57 PM   #15
 
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 Old 12-09-2009, 01:32 PM   #16
 
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this is all great info for a new guy. thanks!
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 Old 12-21-2009, 01:09 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by Blink View Post
If a reasonably fast daily driver is what your going for do the following:

1. intake (cobb or cpe) $200 - $325~
2. cobb turbo inlet $150-$200~
3. catback or test pipe CBE $500-800~ TP $100~
4. cobb AP $500 used - $700 new~
5. motor mount $100~
6. short throw $100-$160~
7. denso plugs $50~
8. turbosmart or forge BPV $200-$350~
9. ETS TMIC $500~
10. Spin On Oil Filter Conversion $100~
11. Dashhawk $250-$300~
12. Rear Diff Supports
depends

Downpipe is more of a major upgrade. If your still under warranty stay away from the DP or any other major mods as mazda won't think twice about voiding your warranty.
I agree completely and have added a few more things to the list that would also be nice.

Last edited by Alpha; 01-18-2010 at 11:54 AM.
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 Old 01-18-2010, 11:48 AM   #18
 
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..removed..
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 Old 01-18-2010, 11:51 AM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by Steggamo View Post
).
See my revised post #17.
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 Old 01-18-2010, 12:44 PM   #20
 
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What should i upgrade first?
The driver.

Read the huge volume of information in this forum, and decide for yourself.
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 Old 02-01-2010, 03:21 PM   #21
 
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I also was thinking about exhaust for my MS6 but wanted to keep it quiet. I have not pulled the trigger yet but found a good article. Magnaflow seems to be a good one and most importantly, to me, is it's quiet.
REVIEW - MagnaFlow Cat Back & Custom Test Pipe - Mazda6 / Atenza
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 Old 02-02-2010, 04:41 PM   #22
 
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yeah theres lots of things you can do depends on your budget
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 Old 02-02-2010, 04:54 PM   #23
 
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hmmm..... i think a good BPV?!?!?! oh yeah i have a nice silver forge gen.1 one for 90.00 bucks
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 Old 02-03-2010, 04:08 AM   #24
 
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good stuff. i pick mine up today
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 Old 02-08-2010, 01:39 AM   #25
 
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Me too.
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 Old 02-08-2010, 07:05 AM   #26
 
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a new car
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 Old 02-08-2010, 10:12 AM   #27
 
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If your on a budget i believe the Cobb Intake is the best bang for your buck i think they are only 185$ through their site..
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 Old 02-08-2010, 10:30 AM   #28
 
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hahaha a new car? Why do you say that dizzin?
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 Old 02-08-2010, 05:38 PM   #29
 
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Just put the cobb intake on my car and it was by far the best noticeable mod i have installed so far. I Could easily feel the gains on the ass dyno. well worth the money.
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 Old 02-19-2010, 08:00 AM   #30
 
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my first mod was the Corksport Turbo Inlet pipe/ Short ram intake combo. It is a breeze to install and remove and really lets you hear the turbo spooling up. Good HP increases as well. Plus, it's only like 240, so its a pretty cheap way to get some extra horsepower.

Also, the AWR motor mount is great too.. Tightens things up a lot and stops the engine thump. I'd recommend that as well.. the two parts together are less than $325 and make a big difference..

Also, going into the tranny and getting a lighter clutch setup might help reduce hp loss, but the cost is pretty big and it is a LOT of work to try to do yourself! Plan on spending upwards of 1500 to get a clutch plus install..
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 Old 02-19-2010, 06:27 PM   #31
 
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I will stick with the airflow bolt ons. I like my CAI so far! Next up an AP.
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 Old 02-19-2010, 07:37 PM   #32
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I wouldn't even bother with an inlet, CBE or BOV/BPV. That's about 1,000.00 for almost ZERO horsepower. I’m not saying absolute don’t get these but they defiantly wouldn’t be at the top of my list.

At least a race pipe will net some gains and it's only 100-200 bucks.

- Short ram intake (CP-E or Cobb)
- Rear engine motor mounts (SU or CP-E)
- Test pipe (Corksport or SU)
- Cobb Accessport
- ATR/ Pro tune

Substantial gains over stock and easily switch back to stock for warranty issues. Later I’d get a coil over suspension kit (probably the MS). Then get the fenders rolled to accommodate a nice set of 245/40 tires.
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 Old 02-19-2010, 07:53 PM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by ms3077 View Post
I wouldn't even bother with an inlet, CBE or BOV/BPV. That's about 1,000.00 for almost ZERO horsepower. I’m not saying absolute don’t get these but they defiantly wouldn’t be at the top of my list.

At least a race pipe will net some gains and it's only 100-200 bucks.

- Short ram intake (CP-E or Cobb)
- Rear engine motor mounts (SU or CP-E)
- Test pipe (Corksport or SU)
- Cobb Accessport
- ATR/ Pro tune

Substantial gains over stock and easily switch back to stock for warranty issues. Later I’d get a coil over suspension kit (probably the MS). Then get the fenders rolled to accommodate a nice set of 245/40 tires.

I like your thinking! Simple and best bang for the buck.
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