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 Old 02-22-2012, 12:43 AM   #1
 
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Default Wheel bearing

Need to replace my front wheel bearings . I am at 103xx miles .
Do you think I will need hubs ? I am thinking just bearings ..
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 Old 02-22-2012, 05:14 PM   #2
 
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If your going to do this do a HOW-TO
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 Old 02-22-2012, 05:19 PM   #3
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im think replacing hub will be best i was told there is a risk of doing bearings and that it might vibrate.
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 Old 02-22-2012, 05:27 PM   #4
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I think you'll be hard pressed to find just the bearing.
You'll likely have to buy the entire hub with abs sensor and all.
I feel sorry for your asshole.
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 Old 02-22-2012, 05:39 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
I think you'll be hard pressed to find just the bearing.
You'll likely have to buy the entire hub with abs sensor and all.
I feel sorry for your asshole.
Bearings are easy to find its the HUB thats a bitch.
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 Old 02-22-2012, 05:48 PM   #6
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I've done a front wheel bearing on my old MS6.

You can buy just the bearing, for around $55, no need to replace the hub. If you're doing it yourself, you'll need an impact gun to loosen the hub nut(36mm IIRC), and the 2 lower ball joint nuts(22mm IIRC).

You'll need a press to get the bearing out. First press out the hub from the spindle/bearing, then the bearing from the spindle.

This will almost certainly happen, where the inner race is stuck on the hub:




You basically want to cut into the race, deep enough to crack it with a chisel. This is all pretty well explained in the shop manual for the MS6.

Remember to buy new hub nuts.
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 Old 02-22-2012, 06:00 PM   #7
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Sweet.
That actually makes me really happy.
Fuck all the one piece bull shit.
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 Old 02-23-2012, 02:09 AM   #8
 
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Thanks Matt !!!!
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 Old 02-24-2012, 06:47 AM   #9
 
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ordered a OEM mazda bearing..$80 bucks shipped
could have gotten it cheaper from NAPA or another place but its a job i dont wanna do again.. so ill get the good stuff !
I am pretty sure its the front right so ill try that first and if the noise doesnt go away ill do the other side..
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 Old 02-24-2012, 02:58 PM   #10

 
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fuck mazda parts. i bought it from bumper-2-bumper, works like a champ. paid $50 to get the bearing swapped once i had the spindle out. $110 with tax and all.

You can loosen that nut without air tools, just need leverage or smarts. I put a breaker on it and used a jack to turn the breaker bar.
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 Old 02-24-2012, 03:17 PM   #11
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Cheap wheel bearings arent cheap when it craps out and your hub welds itself to the spindle. Dont ask me how I know that.

I only use Timkin or oem.
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 Old 02-24-2012, 07:31 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by xfeejayx View Post
fuck mazda parts. i bought it from bumper-2-bumper, works like a champ. paid $50 to get the bearing swapped once i had the spindle out. $110 with tax and all.

You can loosen that nut without air tools, just need leverage or smarts. I put a breaker on it and used a jack to turn the breaker bar.
I broke 2 breaker bars. Use air tools.
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 Old 02-24-2012, 08:27 PM   #13
 
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Unless it's that cheap China crap, it doesn't matter rather it's from Mazda or NAPA or where ever. It will be the same bearing.
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 Old 02-24-2012, 09:53 PM   #14
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LOL I just remembered that the warranty I had covered wheel bearings. My dealer knew I tracked my car, and I didn't want to deal with the hassle of "tracking caused them to fail, warranty void" so I did it myself.
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 Old 02-26-2012, 05:18 AM   #15

 
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Originally Posted by MATT DAMOND View Post
I broke 2 breaker bars. Use air tools.
Buy better tools.

Obviously if you have air use it. But you should at some point use a wrench to tighten, with torque specs and all.
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 Old 06-03-2012, 08:34 AM   #16
 
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For future searching-

Speed6 front wheel bearing - Timken part# 510063
I found the pair for $67 shipped/38 each

TIMKEN BALL BEARING,510063 - WheelBearingWarehouse.com
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 Old 09-15-2012, 11:44 AM   #17
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well my front bearings are shot.... mechanic wants 588.71+tax....
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 Old 09-15-2012, 11:49 AM   #18
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I felt like a fuckin idiot when Greg and I did my brakes earlier this week. Im thinking the wheel bearing was just like domestics, so i will simply remove it and repack it... Spun off the 23mm hub nut only to find zelcho.. Fuckin Fail.. Figured out the hub needed to come off... Fuck that... Bearing Repack Mission... Aborted.
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 Old 09-18-2012, 12:26 PM   #19
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INFO FOR PEOPLE IN THE FUTURE:

Wheel bearing choices for the MS6:
Timken 510063Timken 510063
National/MOOGNational/MOOG

**KEY IS 510063 - AWD

I paid 25 bucks each from ebay to my door. Also, the front wheel bearings seem to only be sold seperately, and not as a hub/bearing kit, unless you go OEM. Also, the rear bearings are availible as a kit for Timken/National/MOOG.
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 Old 09-18-2012, 12:35 PM   #20
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Yup, rock auto has timken, national and skf.
Just wondering how much the dealer would have charged if it wasn't warranty work.
There should still be a price breakdown on the receipt.
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 Old 09-20-2012, 07:34 AM   #21
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Currently my car sounds like metal popcorn in the wheel-well...can it cause further damage to the hub or other components if I keep driving for another week? I am not able to get it into a shop to use a press until next saturday, so I need some good advice here.
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 Old 09-20-2012, 07:43 AM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by mczimer View Post
Currently my car sounds like metal popcorn in the wheel-well...can it cause further damage to the hub or other components if I keep driving for another week? I am not able to get it into a shop to use a press until next saturday, so I need some good advice here.
Yes... you can do much more damage. Best case is the bearing packs up and you have to replace the hub along with the bearing. Worst case is the wheel and hub take off when driving and you get the fun task of replacing the brake rotor and whatever else got ruined when the wheel took off.
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 Old 09-20-2012, 08:29 AM   #23
 
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Considering the castle nut holds the assembly together, if it separates you've really fucked up

Start shopping cost for hubs. About 40% of the time the hub gets replaces because it's damaged when trying to press out the bearing that has seized itself into the hub.

Bonus, if you get hubs you can have the bearings pressed in advance and just swap out the hubs. Only take about an hour, and would suggest an alignment afterwords...
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 Old 09-20-2012, 09:20 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 View Post
Considering the castle nut holds the assembly together, if it separates you've really fucked up

Start shopping cost for hubs. About 40% of the time the hub gets replaces because it's damaged when trying to press out the bearing that has seized itself into the hub.

Bonus, if you get hubs you can have the bearings pressed in advance and just swap out the hubs. Only take about an hour, and would suggest an alignment afterwords...
Any suggestions for hubs? I have only found Dorman and OEM....
DORMAN Part # 930004 ~80 each
OEM Part #GP9A33060A ~$115 each
I was under the impression Hubs would not need to be replaced, but it would be good to have them on hand in case the stockers are damaged...
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 Old 09-20-2012, 09:32 AM   #25
 
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damnit, now I'm not positive if it's knuckle or hub.....
I want to say hub, and that's what I remember reading about

But, I was thinking knuckle when I typed up my previous post...


061 is the hub,
020 is the knuckle

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 Old 09-20-2012, 09:48 AM   #26
 
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Harbor freight sells a tool set to service these type of bearings without a press. It basically uses a big nut and bolt to manuever them in and out of the knuckle. I have done them on the car without removing the knuckle with this tool, assuming you have enough room with the wheels turned to get the axle out of the knuckle.

Took about 2.5 hours and only cost me the 80 bucks for the tool and the 60 or so for the bearing. You can also use a slide hammer and a socket to get the hub out of the bearing.
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 Old 09-21-2012, 11:07 AM   #27
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Having an O SHIT moment... my car is at the shop to get the bearings swapped, and I just got a call saying the left front axle is not releasing from the hub... which would mean I would have to buy a new hub and a new axle!

Ideas, help me please. The shop guy says this is common for mazdas, on this very spot apparently....
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 Old 09-21-2012, 11:22 AM   #28
 
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Not sure what to tell ya- you're paying "pros" to do the work so you don't have to deal with these kinds of issues.

Spin the nut back on upside down so the big ass washer part of the bolt is flush with the end of the axle, have one person pulling out on the knuckle to keep some of the impact from being transferred to the trans, and smack/shock the hell out if it with a pony sledge.

do not apply heat to the axle, that will swell the axle & make it worse.
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 Old 09-21-2012, 11:46 AM   #29
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The mechanic managed the get the fucker off... hopefully I can drive around now!
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 Old 09-22-2012, 09:32 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Baloo View Post
Yes... you can do much more damage. Best case is the bearing packs up and you have to replace the hub along with the bearing. Worst case is the wheel and hub take off when driving and you get the fun task of replacing the brake rotor and whatever else got ruined when the wheel took off.
You'd have to sheer the axle off for the wheel to come off.
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 Old 09-22-2012, 04:41 PM   #31
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Just to update, I bought National bearings, which are 100% identical to MOOG and TIMKEN. I bought them on eBay from the following seller: Gage40981

I received them without the individual boxes, but still wrapped, which was not a biggie, but I told the seller, and the guy responded by giving them to me & refunding the entire purchase.... Recommend this seller

http://www.ebay.com/itm/National-USA...item4844c2bc16
57 shipped for two of them!

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 Old 09-22-2012, 04:46 PM   #32
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what requires you to change them? i still have a wheel tick. lol
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 Old 09-22-2012, 04:57 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Jonny Quest View Post
what requires you to change them? i still have a wheel tick. lol
Thumpy feel in pedals while crushing, ticking noise, metal popcorn from wheels... If you put all 4 wheels in the air and put the car in 1st gear makig all 4 wheels spin, you can put a stethoscope to the hub and hear if it's not smoothly turning too...
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 Old 09-22-2012, 04:58 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by mczimer View Post
Thumpy feel in pedals while crushing, ticking noise, metal popcorn from wheels... If you put all 4 wheels in the air and put the car in 1st gear makig all 4 wheels spin, you can put a stethoscope to the hub and hear if it's not smoothly turning too...
looks like im changing those when i go in for rods lol
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 Old 09-22-2012, 05:12 PM   #35
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Wub wub wub wub faster and faster with speed.
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 Old 09-22-2012, 10:44 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
Wub wub wub wub faster and faster with speed.
mine isn't faster with speed its constant speed but it gets louder...
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 Old 09-23-2012, 06:34 AM   #37
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Same difference. Do what I said above and listen
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 Old 09-23-2012, 03:23 PM   #38
 
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I'll be replacing my wheel bearings this weekend. I'll just be removing the hub and taking it in to a machine shop to have pressed in. Bought my bearings from wheelbearingwarehouse as @TiGraySpeed6 mentioned. $67 shipped for 2.

I'm not getting a 'popcorn/tick' sound though, instead it sounds more like a low 'drone' that starts at about 30-35mph and only gets louder the faster I go. From my experience, if you have the car in the air and shake/wiggle the wheel at 12&6 o'clock you could determine if its a bad bearing. Unfortunately mine doesn't budge but hopefully the new wheel bearings will fix it

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 Old 09-23-2012, 03:37 PM   #39
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Cost is $57 shipped if you buy from the seller I noted above... but to all his own, good luck!
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 Old 09-24-2012, 03:31 AM   #40
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24-34 bucks in rock auto.
Get the retaining clip too. 2.49
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