double post

anyone else see the bolt on 3076 and gt35r on ATPs site??

Thats what I have been waiting for. I am about a week and a half out from ordering the turbo, EMS, and fuel pump.

So what should I run? I have wanted the 35r since I got this car and whoosh is having some luck with it, but it is also $200 more than the 3076, which I think will get me where I want to be. BUT a gt35r is.. a fricken 35r..

Any what are you guys running for inlet pipes? I dont want to run the ATP one because it is a 3" tube that uses a 3" to 4" silicone adapter and is pretty expensive.

I already have the TXS DP/RP/RFL BOV, PG Manifold, Corksport FMIC and Cobb Intake.


And anyone have a fuel pump avaliable ASAP? I cant wait on a list for one. Ive needed it for a while, but no one has one around. Anyone know if PG has them in stock? Are they still even making theirs, or is MRLILGUY doing it??

35R would be my choice... At least, you can talk to Whoosh and pretty much duplicate his setup without issue.

Yea, I really like the 35r. If they are in fact avaliable, I am going to order one this week, then try and hunt down a fuel pump.

Whoosh definitally knows his shit and has already helped me a ton

without a doubt, go 35R.

mrlilguy makes them for pg

well.. my new engine blew on tuesday.. i was going to order everything today.. Pretty much fucked. No clue how.. last time was fuel for sure but this was just random and is no doubt the worst blown engine I have seen out of anyone posting on here. 5 half dollar sized holes in the block and 3 or more spots that look like and earthquake hit and caused the block to split and open into MANY parts. Pieces of the engine everywhere.

Lots of souit (?) on the o2 sensors and all in the exhaust. Grey and pretty thick. Oil all over the front back and on top of the engine.

So I will be PMing a handful of you guys on here. I am still going with the gt35r, but I will be building a new shortblock with forged internals, etc ALOT earlier than I planned. Pretty much the same price to get all OEM/ Stock stuff put in compared to the built engine. Going to have to save for the next few months to even get started :(

Cant believe this engine blew. I didnt fucking even drive it hard. Both times the engines have blown, have been in 5th gear. First time at 4900rpm and this time at roughly 3300rpm. Engine lasted about a month. Never once took it over 5000rpm. Not once.

One blew when I was 18 (blew in Mid February, 2.5 months in the shop), now I am 19 :birthday: and I get to spend the next year paying off my engine. :no: If any banks will even give a 19 year old kid a $10K loan for a blown engine on a non warrantied 2007 model car.

uber fucked

What were you mods that caused it to blow and most importantly, did you have the upgraded CDFP?

more details please..... this is just odd. I dont think they are blowing for the reasons we would normally suspect.

Definitely need more info.......mods.......... were you just driving normally when it went or were you getting on it? We need ALL the deatails (complete explanation)

According to his profile he has a TXS DP and RP with stock CBE. No mention of anything else.

this blows...
sorry to hear about your engine failure
I picked out the most disturbing part of your write up....it's really messed up Zoom

the only thing i can take a stab at is, he has a fucked fuel pump. that is the only logical thing that can be said since his motor is blowing with stock boost. He is having a fuel problem.

Car had the TXS DP/RP, Corksport FMIC and Cobb SRI.

Was in 6th at 60 or so. Downshifted to 5th and went from 60-65 gently and boom. Really all it was. No damn clue.

Fuel pump failed last time, but was replaced and flashed.

How lame is that!? Didnt even get to do anything cool while blowing it up this time! But there is oil EVERYWHERE. It is still dripping off, 3 days later.

There's definitely something wrong in your fuel setup. I wouldnt even drive it with the new forged engine until you can figure out what it is. Possibly an injector now that you have the new fuel pump/solenoid.

if fuel pressure drops the throttle closes.

Guaranteed shipment of parts for fuel pumps to me by next friday, hopefully earlier. Machinist got an earful. I asked the rep - "what happens if that guarantee isn't met?". He said, "nothing. the guarantee is an absolute 100% guarantee. Your order will be fulfilled by next Friday at the absolute latest."

Could it have anything to do with the carbon buildup in our engines? I know when they replaced my engine, they only replaced the block/internals. Wasnt a complete rebuild.

If it was an injector problem, wouldnt I at least get a code?

Not always. Ive seen injectors goto shit with no codes at all. If you have had a pump and you blew the second engine, something tells me, you have a fuel problem.

Yes, I completely agree.

So what do you guys propose as the best way to attack this?

I almost want to get a PG "Forged Engine" But 5Gs seems like an awful lot for a stock block, crank, bearings with some forged rods and pistons.

I dont know what the pricing is like or what I will entirely need. Clearly the block is gone as well as the internals.. But what CAN I reuse? The head, valve cover, "fuel pump", etc?

I know the going rate is around $2500 to pull the stock engine, build it and replace it (not counting parts). But that is with a working engine...

Where do I start? This is super easy to get done with a working car.. but the current status has me overwhelmed.:pat:

Well since you trashed the block, thats roughly $1200 right there. You will need to examine the crank and see if its ok. I would send it out to a machine shop and be sure its in good shape. Rods and Pistons will run you roughly $1700 or so... The heat should be good, but examine it.

Building an engine isnt cheap. $5000 is a lot for a shortblock, but what you have to realize is, their are no one else offering assembled shortblocks for these cars.

I could put my own engine together, so aside from the cost of the parts and machining, i would be in the $2500 neighborhood.

I hate to say it, but it looks like you are going to have to spend 5gs........ or more.....

I am figuring around $11k.. Im just not seeing where $5k is going. I guess I just have to wait and see what kind of power you guys are making off this setup and just what abuse it can take. I mean for $5k, (with fuel of course) I would expect it to be able to take upwards of 25-28 on a gt35r.

I just dont understand how everyone is so willing to throw down money on something that a company hasnt even proved what it can handle. What if that stock block, even with the forged internals can only handl 400whp.. we are all fucked then, are we not?

The moment I see a hint of evidence showing that the setup can support big power, I will be all over it. But I would expect to be able to get 500whp out of a built engine..Right? Or are my expectations too high and the recession is REALLY boning us? lol

I figure $5k for the PG setup
$2000 for the turbo
$500 for the fuel pump
$2500 for the swap
plus whatever else for tuning and cleaning..

Well, its all about chances and quests for power. Ive got enough knowledge gained from building Fords, that forged rods/pistons are just fine. With forges internals, 600hp is easy. If they are billet rods, 800hp can be supported.

Right now, you need to learn as much as you can and do as much work as possible. Its not entirely difficult to pull the engine and put it back in. Several people have already done it on this forum.

Since you blew the block, your expense will be a lot more than mine or someone else's. You NEED to have the crank and heads examined. You will need a new block, bearings, rods, pistons, possibly a crank, unknown about the head. The GT35R is roughly $1600, bigger fuel pump, and misc items.

For $11K i can get a nasty build V8, with full ported heads for my truck. So say $11K is needed to build a MS3 is asinine.

Agreed.. But for a kid who doesnt own the car completely yet, my only option is rebuilding it or just leaving it in my garage and continue my payments..

I have a normal 2.5 car garage with a few tools. I most likely could pull the engine myself, but thats about it. I can do all the hardware intals on it (turbo, manifold, alternator, etc) but am clueless on how to go about doing the timing, anything with the cam, pistons, rods, etc). I know how everything works, but not enough to put my $11k engine on the line.

The gt35r that bolts to my PG tubular headed and txs downpipe is $1900. And that $11k includes the price of ALL the labor, engine management, big turbo, tuning, etc. It is going to cost roughly that much to put all stock components in since my turbo is most likely fuked as well.

Just the gt35r, forged engine and fuel pump through PG costs $7,925.20.................................

So what options does that leave me?:friday:

Build it without big power to get running. Add more power later. There, you just saved yourself $5K.

You can have a local engine builder assemble the heads and do the timing. Than toss it in the car yourself.

Where is the $5k saved coming from? Not going with the upgraded turbo just means that I save the price difference from the k04 (around $1100 from the dealer) and not having to tune it ($5-700 for EMS and $400ish for a tune). So I will save about $2k. But at that point, whats another $2k.. might as well just put the 35r on there, tune it and be done!?

Since noone else is going to say it I will try to be a voice of reason:

<soapbox>
If you cannot afford this hobby then stop before you are in bankruptcy. Being on the cutting edge is always expensive with new cars. It is totally expected that many people will blow their engines in the pursuit of figuring out how to make big power. If you cannot afford this occurring, then you really need to reconsider your build. You sound like you are trying to make a daily driver drag car. This goal is never cheap or reliable even with proven technology.

Something is seriously missing on your combo and if you don't correctly diagnose it your next engine is subject to blow as well (forged or not).

I had several friends that got into serious debt in their early 20's and they are still fucked financially 6-8 years later.

Take it for what it is worth.

</soapbox>

If you elect to continue on, good luck.

Well considering the factory Crank is pretty stout you shouldn't really need a different one and the engine is pretty good from the looks of it and getting an entirely new block designed and built will cost alot more than 5K for a bare block then you still have to get the crank and other parts. A new short block from the dealer costs roughly $2600 right there plus the labor and other parts involved in building it and there is the $5000 and that includes the freight to get it to your door.

ChicagoTuners
 

Does anyone have recommendations for competent Chicago-area tuning shops for MS3's? Have an '07 and want to start modifying

wow talk about bringing back a thread from the dead

fucking noob :fing26:

welcome to 2008 sweetheart