TURBINETECH LIQUID TO AIR INTERCOOLER INSTALL JOURNEY!

[Mcfly]

So Bio... Has that rear hood weatherstrip being removed help with
the IAT's much? I had someone suggest a heavy duty Bilge blower
(for I/O boats) and a cowl to evacuate the heat. Sounds a little
elaborate to me, BUT it would probably work. Those blowers use a
3 or 4 inch diameter hose, so they must pull a fair amount of air.
Question is...where do you blow the hot air TO!?

[Speedie6]

Originally Posted by Mcfly Sounds a little elaborate to me, BUT it would probably work. Those blowers use a 3 or 4 inch diameter hose, so they must pull a fair amount of air. Question is...where do you blow the hot air TO!?

Sounds elaborate to me too. But, to answer your question, the obvious answer would be to blow it out towards the windshield where you remove the gasket.

I've never even been logging my BAT's, so, I haven't the slightest idea how it is working. (I've got an ETS TMIC) But I did pull off the gasket. My hood now vibrates some. Its just a little annoying seeing your hood vibrate. So I was thinking of putting some small amount of gasket in the middle just to steady the hood some.

[bioevolve]

Originally Posted by Mcfly So Bio... Has that rear hood weatherstrip being removed help with the IAT's much? I had someone suggest a heavy duty Bilge blower (for I/O boats) and a cowl to evacuate the heat. Sounds a little elaborate to me, BUT it would probably work. Those blowers use a 3 or 4 inch diameter hose, so they must pull a fair amount of air. Question is...where do you blow the hot air TO!?

I did help alot, before it was like 10*-20* while cruising on the highway now it's like at AMB-10*.
Yesterday it was 97* AMB and on the highway going 80mph the IAT was 97* lol. IAT drops close to AMB or right at AMB when 40mph or faster. But standing still it's normal 110*-160* IAT in 97* weather.

Originally Posted by Speedie6 Sounds elaborate to me too. But, to answer your question, the obvious answer would be to blow it out towards the windshield where you remove the gasket. I've never even been logging my BAT's, so, I haven't the slightest idea how it is working. (I've got an ETS TMIC) But I did pull off the gasket. My hood now vibrates some. Its just a little annoying seeing your hood vibrate. So I was thinking of putting some small amount of gasket in the middle just to steady the hood some.

Hood vibrates on the driver's side while idling due to extra play space lol. But it does work for the IAT, I haven't seen anything for the BAT.

[Speedie6]

Originally Posted by bioevolve Hood vibrates on the driver's side while idling due to extra play space lol. But it does work for the IAT, I haven't seen anything for the BAT.

I still have never bothered to monitor temps. I know I should. But, as far as the hood venting, I bought a 1" rubber stopper. Sat it dead-center where the stock gasket goes. Seemed too tall, so, I gut it to about 3/4" tall. Drilled a hole in it to accomodate a #12 machine screw (with its head cut off) which was about the size of the hole that the stock gasket clips go in. Put some old rubber cement on it to hold it in place but could be pulled if necessary.

Results? Hoot doesn't vibrate anymore. And, I think, I've made it where the hood clearance is maybe 1/8" more than it was before, so, maybe even getting slightly more venting. Note that the sides where hood rests against the body of the car is still perfect. I didn't do anything to make it look like those crappy hood spacers. It looks totally stock, just no more hood vibration -- and perhaps/perhaps not slightly more venting.

Of possible note, I was changing the battery in my Mercury Villager minivan. And I noticed it had essentially the exact same design. It had no gasket, and just two rubber stoppers near the windshield. So, I guess Mercury wasn't concerned about water coming into the engine compartment via that route. I wasn't to begin with, I'm just pointing this out to the person who was wondering if this was a possible issue.

[bioevolve]

Update:
After 6000+ miles everything is still working.
Temps are consistent and stable. Only problem since the install was the rubber fill gasket leak. Other than that, it's all good.

Currently generating funds for the Killer Chiller Prototype kit for the all MS3/MS6 with L/A setups. Might even have in my hands this month.

[xcoldricex]

killer chiller!!! should be pretty fucking awesome

[bioevolve]

Yeah, it's on the way to me.
Look for a thread on that next week hopefully.

[MS3 Ventura]

Originally Posted by bioevolve Update: After 6000+ miles everything is still working. Temps are consistent and stable. Only problem since the install was the rubber fill gasket leak. Other than that, it's all good. Currently generating funds for the Killer Chiller Prototype kit for the all MS3/MS6 with L/A setups. Might even have in my hands this month.

Bio - Do you recomend this L/A intercooler over a front mount IC? Thanks

[bioevolve]

Originally Posted by MS3 Ventura Bio - Do you recomend this L/A intercooler over a front mount IC? Thanks

I really can't give a real comment on that, I never had a FMIC lol. But from reading all the threads about both, FMIC would the least expensive and the least maintenance. L/A would be the most consistent. It would depend on the buyer I guess.

FMIC with IC sprayer vs L/A with Icebox Reservoir, L/A would be cheaper in the long run.

L/A with Killer Chiller is gonna be the best setup I think but the most maintenance beside N20 lol.

Damn Turkey Day has delayed my Killer Chiller shipment Grrrrrrrrr. Should be in next week.