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 Old 07-28-2009, 06:41 PM   #1
 
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Default Zoom Zoom BOOM - I joined the blown up club.

Well I heard the worst sound of my entire life on Friday July 17th in Danville VA.
I drove down from Ohio (500mi) and the car ran like a champ, and got 32mpg to boot. It's about the 5th time I have driven down here. I had my dashhawk on the entire trip down - no knock, everything looked great. I was leaving the plant and had driven my car for about 1 mile to the front gate, dropped off my pass and hopped in excited for a nice ride home - I love goin through the mountains of VA and WV. I was in no hurry and leasurely ran through 1st and 2nd then shifted into 3rd at about 3k and maybe 1 or 2 psi (I was driving like an old lady). Then the sound that still haunts me: a hand full of nuts and bolts thrown into a blender on high speed, followed by a "pop" about 1 sec later, then the instant strong smell of oil and antifreeze. Was running on like 1 or 2 cylinders when I shut it down (almost immediately). I got out and there was a trail of oil and antifreeze and a giant pool of both under my car. I popped the hood, nothing visible except oil everywhere.
34k miles on the car. I had my wife call and get me towed to an empty lot next to my hotel in town, then bummed a ride to RDU and flew home 5 hrs. later to Cleveland.
The car is now at a shop in VA getting re-built (going forged) for the next month or so.
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 Old 07-28-2009, 06:54 PM   #2
 
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sorry to hear man but glad your not giving up and coming back stronger then ever!
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 Old 07-28-2009, 07:01 PM   #3
 
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Sorry to hear this dude....sucks especially when you are away from home...What do you think caused it to blow ?

if your old enough to remember the Gomer Pyle show....then what is it that Gomer would of said when it blew? S______E S______E !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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 Old 07-28-2009, 07:04 PM   #4
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and the shop doing the build would be who again?

youre leaving out all the good news tony!!
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 Old 07-28-2009, 07:11 PM   #5
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Sorry to hear about the zoom zoom boom but it sounds like you have a plan. Quick question - you mentioned you love driving through the mountains. Was it a spirited drive there? Lots of load and boosting?
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 Old 07-28-2009, 07:31 PM   #6
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Let me add to my question - the motor led go by either the rod being fatigued/having a crack that finally let go or something locked the assembly up.

From what I hear from people it sounds like fatigue. Any chance you can get get some high res pics of the broken rod fracture point? I'd be interested to get the pieces of rod from you if you can get them from the engine.
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 Old 07-28-2009, 07:33 PM   #7
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Sorry to hear.
A song to cheer you up.

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 Old 07-28-2009, 07:33 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by palerider View Post
and the shop doing the build would be who again?

youre leaving out all the good news tony!!
Oh yea, I almost forgot !
Well after I got home I started talking with Palerider about what I should do and he pointed me to Darrell Cox Racing - like 30 miles away from where I blew !!!! I met up with Darrell and he is building my motor !!!! Like Randy said if you are going to blowup there is no better place to do it than near DCR, probably the best shop in the country for building bomb proof forged motors!!! So I'm totally excited about DCR working on my car.
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 Old 07-28-2009, 09:05 PM   #9
 
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Sorry to hear man. Plus, I have the same mods as you except I have TMIC which makes me worry even more. What v103 map were you running the longest, and do you have a log to post? Lucky your near DCR for the build, I don't have a plan yet. GL with it all.
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 Old 07-28-2009, 09:13 PM   #10
 
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dang man sorry to hear about the bust. What v1.03 map were you running? Did you tweak any of it in ATR or was it a stock OTS map?
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 Old 07-28-2009, 09:29 PM   #11
 
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feeceeeesss sorry to hear man.
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 Old 07-28-2009, 09:31 PM   #12
 
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Sorry to hear mate. I know that pit of your stomach feeling all to well. Hope there is a breakthrough soon end this shit for good.
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 Old 07-28-2009, 09:38 PM   #13
 
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looking forward to see what your new motor will put down.
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 Old 07-28-2009, 09:40 PM   #14
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do I have to send two now randy? lol
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 Old 07-29-2009, 04:56 AM   #15
 
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shitty news, its weird how this happens to some people and not others.
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 Old 07-29-2009, 06:56 AM   #16
 
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jebus, I got the same mileage and 80% of the same mods as you
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 Old 07-29-2009, 07:03 AM   #17
 
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You live in cleveland??! If so i want to see this car once its done!
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 Old 07-29-2009, 08:31 AM   #18
 
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WTF...very sorry to hear man. Good luck on your new build and keep us posted on what you choose to do to the motor. Hopefully DCR can inspect the motor, post pics, and Darrell can give us insight to what he thinks happened. While this is bad news, it sounds like this time it could yield some good news in the long run.

I suspect fatique over time and it finally let go. Just because we blow at part throttle most of the time doesn't mean a whole lot to me. We are in PT a lot more than we are WOT, so the odds that it will give way around 3000 RPM with our low end torque curve are pretty good. I'm sure if you would have went WOT boosting up to 6000 RPM, you would have still seen failure just the same. It seems like a lot of cars that blow are also going through a temp change event (just leaving somewhere after cooling down or just coming off the highway). Such an event would assist in a stressed part giving way.
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 Old 07-29-2009, 09:23 AM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by Deadman View Post
You live in cleveland??! If so i want to see this car once its done!
Well Wadsworth actually, but close enough to Cleveland. I'll give you a pm when I have the car back and we can meet. It's gonna be a month or so, DCR is going to do it right so I'm going to give them all the time they need.

Toledospeed, the car was warming up probably about 75% up to normal operating temperature. That was the reason I was babying it.
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 Old 07-29-2009, 10:28 AM   #20
 
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Wow that sucks...But it is nice to have your motor at DCR to be built.I would like to hear about what options DCR may have for your new motor.
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 Old 07-29-2009, 10:47 AM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by SharkDiver View Post
Wow that sucks...But it is nice to have your motor at DCR to be built.I would like to hear about what options DCR may have for your new motor.
I will let you know what is available after the motor is out. I know DCR is working on many options and cool add-ons for our platform but I don't have all the details at this point. All I can say is I'm glad my car is at DCR and that Darrell is willing to work with you at any level of performance you choose. My 1st goal is a super reliable DD, second goal is adding on some cool parts to deliver more power (exhaust mani, DP, bigger turbo or re-worked turbo). Anything is possible, but I have a limited budget so I have to be reasonable and not go crazy.
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 Old 07-29-2009, 11:11 AM   #22
 
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If I was you I would try to come up with enough money to get one of there new exhaust manifolds that should be out soon or a re-built turbo or maybe both...
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 Old 07-29-2009, 11:15 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by flyrevs2 View Post
Well Wadsworth actually, but close enough to Cleveland. I'll give you a pm when I have the car back and we can meet. It's gonna be a month or so, DCR is going to do it right so I'm going to give them all the time they need.

Toledospeed, the car was warming up probably about 75% up to normal operating temperature. That was the reason I was babying it.
you say you were babying yet you were boosting before it was even fully warmed up and at the worst spot, 3k
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 Old 07-29-2009, 11:41 AM   #24
 
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he said 1 to 2 psi, i dont know about you but that is necessary to drive with the flow.

If you cant get up to speed when merging on the long island expressway where i live you will be rammed off the road.
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 Old 07-29-2009, 11:54 AM   #25
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The damage was already done. I have added to my first post here describing these low load failures a little more:

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...king-rods.html
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 Old 07-29-2009, 12:00 PM   #26
 
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i would love to hear what DCR thinks about the aspects of the failure, even if it is speculation.

i've been completely stock for 54K.

but i noticed a lot on long highway trips that IAT temps in my car are just a couple degrees over ambient temp, but the boosted temp can intermittently get 150+ degrees for several minutes. i'm not sure how boost temp can be so high with speeds between 70-80mph on flat highway. it's not always like that, but it does happen. usually i can boost the car and the boost temp immediately goes down, go figure.

just my 2 cents
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 Old 07-29-2009, 12:29 PM   #27
 
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It's probably because there is no boost flowing through the throttle body or intake manifold.. whereever BAT's are measured.
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 Old 07-29-2009, 01:10 PM   #28
 
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a DCR build....how sweet it that!!!!!!!!!! In the long run dude, this could be a very good thing.
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 Old 07-29-2009, 01:41 PM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by bf360 View Post
you say you were babying yet you were boosting before it was even fully warmed up and at the worst spot, 3k
Ok how much torque am I gonna make at 1 or 2 psi ? So I guess if I would of stayed in vaccuum for another 5 min then I would not have blown. I didn't realize these motors were that fragile.

PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT: ALL MS3 OWNERS STAY IN VACCUUM UNTIL YOUR MOTOR IS FULLY WARMED UP TO PREVENT BLOWUPS.
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 Old 07-29-2009, 02:01 PM   #30
 
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flyrevs how much did dcr quote you. a ruff estimate if you will... 10?
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 Old 07-29-2009, 02:05 PM   #31
 
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If you put 34000 miles on the car, all the while thinking babying it meant only a little boost at below operating temp, then you've got more accumulated wear than someone who didn't do that. I have to pull out onto a federal hiway half a mile from my front door and I never do that. They might have to slow down for me, but by the time I'm up to speed I'm going faster than them so screw 'em.

You can drive however you want, I'm just posting so people who don't know any better won't think that your definition of babying is the only one
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 Old 07-29-2009, 02:50 PM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by flyrevs2 View Post
Ok how much torque am I gonna make at 1 or 2 psi ? So I guess if I would of stayed in vaccuum for another 5 min then I would not have blown. I didn't realize these motors were that fragile.

PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT: ALL MS3 OWNERS STAY IN VACCUUM UNTIL YOUR MOTOR IS FULLY WARMED UP TO PREVENT BLOWUPS.
so what was your a/f while hitting those couple pounds before warmed up?
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 Old 07-29-2009, 02:53 PM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by 2007speed3 View Post
he said 1 to 2 psi, i dont know about you but that is necessary to drive with the flow.

If you cant get up to speed when merging on the long island expressway where i live you will be rammed off the road.
then down shift and go wot, if your not warmed up then stay in vacumm fuck em you dont have to boost while warming up just because they want u to go faster
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 Old 07-29-2009, 03:02 PM   #34
 
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actually i do the same thing everyday. if the temps aren't up i stay outta the boost. hell i stay out of the boost most of the time anyway. yeah i drive like a granny. maybe after the hks exhaust is on i'll be gettin on it a little more since it will actually sound like a real car then!
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 Old 07-29-2009, 03:16 PM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by bf360 View Post
so what was your a/f while hitting those couple pounds before warmed up?
Didn't have the dash hawk on when it blew, but I have monitored it quite a bit and at that level it was still closed loop so I'm sure it was close to stoik.
From the time I got in the car until it blew was exactly 2 shifts and about 100 yards.
I'm guessing it blew from some kind of detonation but what do I know? Gotta wait for DCR to examine it to really know what happened.
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 Old 07-29-2009, 03:23 PM   #36
 
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If DCR could post their findings in their section that would be super sweet.
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 Old 07-29-2009, 03:41 PM   #37
 
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man...everyone (including me) is looking for an angle that hasn't panned out. we want to believe that the rods are breaking at low rpms because of previous stress from previous high boost, previous detonation ect.
folks if this was the case at least a small percentage of these blown engines would have blown at WOT and at least a couple of honest folks would have stated so. almost everyone that blows comes on this site or another and states exactly how they were driving and 99.9% of the time it's consistant with all the others.
a lot of us are in denial and we instantly start to doubt the person because they are not reporting what we want to hear.
let's face it we are in denial because of the unknown and the fact that we do not want to believe the engines in our beloved 25k investments are so fragile.
until this is figured out we have the options to continue the status quo and possibly blow, trade it now, or get a built engine.
i'm thinking of doing the latter.
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 Old 07-29-2009, 03:51 PM   #38
 
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+10 ^^^^^^^^
Stay stock so you have a warrantee, or go forged, or get out while you can. If I had it to do over I would have stayed stock until 60k then paid the $$ for a built motor. At least that way you would have saved $1k not having to buy another block. Plus you can schedule it and not end up being blown in another state and unknown time. I thought I was doing everything right (dashhawk, conservative tune, good maintainence etc.) then BOOM .
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 Old 07-29-2009, 03:52 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by flyrevs2 View Post
Didn't have the dash hawk on when it blew, but I have monitored it quite a bit and at that level it was still closed loop so I'm sure it was close to stoik.
From the time I got in the car until it blew was exactly 2 shifts and about 100 yards.
I'm guessing it blew from some kind of detonation but what do I know? Gotta wait for DCR to examine it to really know what happened.
Did it stumble at all RIGHT before blowing? Did you feel as though the engine was being slowed down? Was there ANY unusual sound before the bucket of bolts sound?
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 Old 07-29-2009, 03:58 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Did it stumble at all RIGHT before blowing? Did you feel as though the engine was being slowed down? Was there ANY unusual sound before the bucket of bolts sound?
No stumbling nothing wierd, runnning fine then the blender sound with nuts and bolts and BOOM!
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