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 Old 07-15-2010, 10:36 AM   #1
 
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Default bc coilover rears part 2

Ok the rear shock are a little bite harder and this is not for your average installer.

All of these pics are while laying on your back with your feet hanging out of the rear of the car. Also most of these pics are of the driverside shock unless other wise stated. Ok so lets get started...

This bolt is a 17mm and you also might want to have an additional one for the other side just incase the entire bolt turns together. The bolt that i am refering to is the one just to the right of the jackstand.


After you have gotten that one loose there are three bolts that hold the upper plate for the shock in place. They are 14mm.


This is where is gets a little difficult. IT IS HIGHLY SUGGESTED THAT YOU GET A SWIVEL 14mm not just a swivel with a 14 on it the on that is already made with 14 on the other end. I will get a pic of what i am talking about later. You CAN do it without one by using a regular swivel with a 12' and 6' extension 3/8 drive it will just take little more time to get out.
Remember these pics are taken while laying on my back on the driverside wit my head pointing to the front of the car.
Here are all three bolts.
this one here you will need to use a closed end 14mm wrench as a socket will not fit.


both of these are the same pic just from a different angle. the bolt that you want to take out is the on to the right on pic one and the lower one in pic two notice the plate is bent around the bolt.







I will be taking pics of how i got the swivel up on there later so you will know how i got the bolts out. Once you have these bolt all out then you will have to maneuver the plate out of the area it is in. It will come out you will just have to find the right angle to get it out also are the tip of that plate if a safety hook. It is easy to bend. You will need to have this bent un order to get the shock out. This will come loose very easily while you are trying to find the right angle to get the plate out. FYI..YOU CAN NOT GET THE NUT AND BOLT OFF THE TOP OF THE SHOCK WITHOUT TAKING THE PLATE OUT.....

If these pics prove to be too difficult to understand then please let me know.

Once you have the shock out the you will need a 17mm to get the shock loose from the plate.
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 Old 07-15-2010, 10:55 AM   #2
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lol and to add a little more,

it helps if you lower the subframe as far as it can go without coming off the bolts, it may seem like extra work but it def helps. also i found it easier NOT to bend that hook as mine came out just fine with it still in its original position and you definitely need it back to where it was to be able to thread the bolts back in. if you can do this on a lift i highly suggest it.

ive also heard that the bottom mount on the BC coils tends to be slightly larger then the bracket on the trailing arm so you may need to grind down either to get it to go back in. and make sure the dampening adjustment is at the top of the shock where the plate is and facing outwards of the car. be sure that you reinstalled the new shock at the same angle with the plate as the old one came out.
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 Old 07-15-2010, 12:27 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by superskaterxes View Post
lol and to add a little more,

it helps if you lower the subframe as far as it can go without coming off the bolts, it may seem like extra work but it def helps. also i found it easier NOT to bend that hook as mine came out just fine with it still in its original position and you definitely need it back to where it was to be able to thread the bolts back in. if you can do this on a lift i highly suggest it.

Ive also heard that the bottom mount on the BC coils tends to be slightly larger then the bracket on the trailing arm so you may need to grind down either to get it to go back in. and make sure the dampening adjustment is at the top of the shock where the plate is and facing outwards of the car. be sure that you reinstalled the new shock at the same angle with the plate as the old one came out.
I am going to get a pic of the best swivel that is needed for this job which will save you from any extra work. Also on the bracket there is a "SLEEVE" that will need to be tapped back out to make room so you don't have to do any sanding... More pics i have to take now thanks skater!!!!
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 Old 12-29-2010, 09:41 AM   #4
 
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any updates on this?
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 Old 12-29-2010, 10:22 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by speedms6 View Post
any updates on this?
on what the swivel.. sorry i have not posted this as i have been doing other HOW TOs...

http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool...SKT-33432.html they have some that are not impact as well and also thinner walled one as well..
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 Old 12-31-2010, 01:37 AM   #6
 
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who ever thought that the bolt placement was a great idea needs to be shot. it was hell installing the rear coilovers
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 Old 06-28-2014, 04:24 PM   #7
 
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I was just doing some fluid changes, air filter etc, and I saw that my rear shocks are leaking. So I started looking up there for the top bolt and, yes I agree, whatever dumbass came up with this should be taken out back and beaten. what a dolt.

thanks for the writeup.
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 Old 08-05-2014, 02:11 PM   #8
 
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Yep. Tried to do this yesterday and after an hour I had one upper bolt out, my hand was cramped and I was bleeding. Someone at Mazda needs their head bashed in. Why not do a traditional top mount in the trunk instead of being fucking retarded Mazda? Uff.
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 Old 04-14-2015, 06:45 PM   #9
 
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I used a long-ish 14mm offset wrench to break the rear bolts of the shock upper plates ... then finished the "dreaded bolt" w/ extensions + universal joint attached to the 14mm socket. I thought the more annoying part of this install was getting the damn plate+shock back in on the left-hand side. It left me wanting to punch a baby.
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 Old 12-30-2015, 07:37 PM   #10
 
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Third time doing this. Swivle socket on outer bolts. Broke PS loose with wrench but did DS with this setup.
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 Old 04-12-2017, 10:32 AM   #11
 
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Does anyone know the torque specs of the rear shock assembly.
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 Old 11-18-2019, 12:56 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by qtrmile beast View Post
Also on the bracket there is a "SLEEVE" that will need to be tapped back out to make room so you don't have to do any sanding
Just got to doing this last weekend and trying to slide the bottom of the shock into the lower bracket, but that "SLEEVE" you mentioned...

If you're referring to the the eyelet that resembles a bushing on the rear side of the bracket, I couldn't get it to budge using a slide hammer and I don't want to grind the bottom sleeve of the shock because any gaps would cause noise.

What did you use to ease that out? I'm thinking of McGyvering a puller using screws and nuts.
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 Old 11-18-2019, 01:08 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
Third time doing this. Swivle socket on outer bolts. Broke PS loose with wrench but did DS with this setup.
FYI: Without dropping the chassis subframe, I was able to remove all three top bracket bolts using Kobalt 14mm flex-head combination ratchet wrench. I used the flex-head ratchet end. To break loose the bolts, I also needed to use Maxx Leverage 9.5 inch extension wrench with the combi wrench.
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 Old 11-18-2019, 04:14 PM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Mazd1222 View Post
Does anyone know the torque specs of the rear shock assembly.
Top three 14mm bracket bolts: 28-38 ftlb
17mm Upper Shock Bolt/Nut: 64-85 ftlb
17mm Lower Shock Bolt/Nut: 69-93 ftlb
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