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 Old 07-12-2018, 03:34 PM   #1
 
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Default Can't hit more than 10psi

I can't get more than 10psi peak boost. It doesn't sound like I have an air leak but I am thinking that might be the problem. What do you guys think? I attached some logs from a couple short pulls. I went around and tightened up everything I could find but still can't get much boost.

2007 MS6
SRI - CorkSport with K&N filter
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FMIC - unknown brand, probably ebay special
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Power Steering Cooler Upgrade - DamondMotorsport
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 Old 07-12-2018, 07:35 PM   #2
 
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Since you registered 5.66 g/s air flow at 5466 RPM, I'm gonna go out on a limb and say it's your MAF sensor lol
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 Old 07-13-2018, 12:34 AM   #3
 
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Well, your primary O2 sensor is shot. 14.85AFR across the board. Change it and try again. I recommend either OEM or NGK.

Originally Posted by Solarsurge View Post
Since you registered 5.66 g/s air flow at 5466 RPM, I'm gonna go out on a limb and say it's your MAF sensor lol
Well, he shifter to next gear at that point.
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Last edited by mituc; 07-13-2018 at 12:34 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 07-13-2018, 12:43 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Well, he shifter to next gear at that point.
Good catch. I'm so used to seeing single gear pulls I didn't even see that lol. Those air flows are really low for WOT at 5500 RPM though, so I wasn't even looking at the shifts. I was just seeing really low flow rates dropping to even lower flow rates. I wouldn't be surprised if he has a dirty MAF too. But yea, now that I see the shift...O2 sensor.
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 Old 07-13-2018, 06:02 AM   #5
 
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Just had to replace primary O2 sensor for same reason months ago - constant 14.85 AFR. That sensor is definitely dead. For my '08 MS3 I replaced it with the NGK NTK 24357 Oxygen Sensor ($120 on Amazon/$115 on Rockauto). It has been working great.
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 Old 07-13-2018, 05:01 PM   #6
 
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Strange that it doesn't show an engine code. I'm afraid to order the wrong one. Are you sure that one will work for me?

This is what I found as same part number but I don't want to pay 300...

http://www.sparespro.com.au/ngk-oxygen-sensor-lza07-md1
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 Old 07-13-2018, 05:07 PM   #7
 
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They sell a NGK O2 sensor on Edge Autosport for about the same price, maybe a little more. I would trust NGK before NTK any day the week If you don’t want to go with OEM


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 Old 07-13-2018, 05:25 PM   #8
 
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Is Denso oem? Because this is what I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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 Old 07-13-2018, 05:33 PM   #9
 
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Isn't NTK an NGK brand? The part always comes up as NGK NTK 24357. Interesting though that Edge sells it as NGK 24357 for $40-45 more and show retail price as like $330... seems like the same part to me despite the disparities. Am I wrong?
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 Old 07-13-2018, 06:15 PM   #10
 
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Default Can't hit more than 10psi

I’ll be damned. Learn something new every day. I had no idea they were the same company. Carry on. Nothing to see here lol

Edit: For the record, I ONLY buy OEM sensors, so I’ve never actually bought anything from NGK/NTK other than spark plugs.

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 Old 07-14-2018, 04:56 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by njdurkin View Post
Is Denso oem? Because this is what I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
See above post.
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 Old 07-14-2018, 06:25 AM   #12
 
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I see no mention of that Denso part anywhere for an MS6 - definitely not the part I would try. Looks like the NGK part number for 2006/2007 MS6 primary O2 sensor is ngk 24354. Looks like it's about $140 on Amazon.
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 Old 07-14-2018, 07:04 AM   #13
 
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What is OEM then?
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 Old 07-14-2018, 10:26 AM   #14
 
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Edge lists L3M6188G1F as OEM parts for your MS6, Rock Auto does show that Denso as a part for your MS6. Hopefully an MS6 owner can weigh in and confirm...
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 Old 07-15-2018, 01:22 AM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by njdurkin View Post
What is OEM then?
The OEM is like $30 more than an aftermarket, why do you like complicating your life for 30 bucks?! This is the price of an average meal or 3 fancy ice creams... while that O2 sensor will stay in the car for a lot longer than you'd enjoy that meal or icecreams...
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 Old 07-15-2018, 12:55 PM   #16
 
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Well I was trying to get OEM but I couldn't find what OEM was. I ordered the denso one but the part actually says NTK on it with the same maching number as the one I pulled off.

UPDATE:
New o2 sensor installed. Thank you for helping me identify my false AFRs. Now, I noticed a difference. The numbers obviously change now, but I did experience a tiny bit more power and I even hit over 11 psi on one of the 2 3rd gear pulls I have attached. I still think I have a boost leak or something. I should be hitting 15psi peak with the tune I am running. I'm on the 91 tune right now but I still think it peaks at 15psi. Can you see anything in my data logs?

Thanks!
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 Old 07-16-2018, 08:28 AM   #17
 
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Sounds like a leak to me although I'd probably start with reflashing your map now that you have that O2 sensor replaced. If you don't have a boost leak tester I'd physically tighten/check all connections on air intake and turbo inlet pipe. Those connections might look OK when you're just looking at them but allowing air to leak once the systems are pressurized to 10 PSI, a boost leak tester would help isolate this since you would see pressure drop once pressurizing to 10 PSI. I'd also check the CS BPV, I've never used that one personally but I believe you're supposed to be disassembling and lubricating/servicing 1-2 times a year.

Sorry not the most helpful post but hopefully the post bump will get someone to look at this thread with better advice.
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 Old 07-16-2018, 08:50 AM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by njdurkin View Post
Can you see anything in my data logs?
Reflash and see where that gets you. As far as I can tell there is no boost leak judging by the actual AFRs and the BPV is not leaking either. The WGDCs tell that your ECU simply doesn't want to get more air that it pulls in now, so this may be a result of some kind of semi-limp mode.
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 Old 07-16-2018, 02:58 PM   #19
 
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I reflashed, tightened everything up AGAIN it is super tight and still same exact problem. I uploaded the stage1+IC with 93 and also took apart the bpv and it looks very good. Like brand new. I cleaned it and put the grease they recommended in it. Test drove it again, still cannot get over 11.25lbs. I don't know, maybe 11.25 is normal for boos pressure starting out at 3k rpms. Maybe the 15, 16 lbs they are talking about are when building from 2k rpms? Anybody have any experience with a stage 1 or 2 cobb setup? The only 2 things I know to do right now is find someone with a boost leak tester and contact cobb and hope they can shed some light on the situation.

Things to note: I do have a slight exhaust leak somewhere (not sure where) and I also think it needs a valve cover gasket because I have oil all round the valve cover. Could these two items affect my boost pressure?
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 Old 07-19-2018, 12:00 PM   #20
 
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Borrow an EBCS from someone else and see how things will look like.
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 Old 08-01-2018, 08:04 AM   #21
 
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Default Same Issue

I'm having the same issue with my new turbo. was pushing 16psi stock with the old turbo.
Replaced the clutch and turbo and couldnt' get over 12.45psi.
subsequently replaced all boost hoses with silicone ones, replaced factory BPV with aftermarket on, tried switching the hoses around on the BCS and even replaced the BCS with a spare I had laying around.
I'm still maxing out at about 12.5psi and it's gotten aggravating now. I can pressurize the system to about 10psi, it won't go over 10psi and hold it. as I pressurize over that to roughly 20, I don't hear an air leak, but as soon as I remove the air compressor from it it immediately drops to 10 again .
I miss the 16psi it had and I've got no other ideas on what it could be.
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 Old 08-01-2018, 04:43 PM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by wingcmdr View Post
I'm having the same issue with my new turbo. was pushing 16psi stock with the old turbo.
Replaced the clutch and turbo and couldnt' get over 12.45psi.
subsequently replaced all boost hoses with silicone ones, replaced factory BPV with aftermarket on, tried switching the hoses around on the BCS and even replaced the BCS with a spare I had laying around.
I'm still maxing out at about 12.5psi and it's gotten aggravating now. I can pressurize the system to about 10psi, it won't go over 10psi and hold it. as I pressurize over that to roughly 20, I don't hear an air leak, but as soon as I remove the air compressor from it it immediately drops to 10 again .
I miss the 16psi it had and I've got no other ideas on what it could be.
More facts. Replacing parts that were working before to chase a problem just makes things more complicated because you have added more sources of potential causes.

Go back to the beginning. Was it a stock K04? What did you replace it with? If that is where the problem began, that is where the solution will be. None of the new parts after the turbo swap are likely to have been needed, as they were working before.

You need to carefully consider every part of the induction system that was moved, changed or altered in connection with the clutch change and turbo swap. Going back together is where the problem arose. Are you sure it went back together the same way (vacuum lines, EBCS hose configuration, lines to the turbo)? What about turbo wastegate setup? Sounds like you are running on spring pressure alone with maybe an open, cracked, split or misrouted vacuum line.
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 Old 08-01-2018, 05:13 PM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by MSMS3 View Post
More facts. Replacing parts that were working before to chase a problem just makes things more complicated because you have added more sources of potential causes.

Go back to the beginning. Was it a stock K04? What did you replace it with? If that is where the problem began, that is where the solution will be. None of the new parts after the turbo swap are likely to have been needed, as they were working before.

You need to carefully consider every part of the induction system that was moved, changed or altered in connection with the clutch change and turbo swap. Going back together is where the problem arose. Are you sure it went back together the same way (vacuum lines, EBCS hose configuration, lines to the turbo)? What about turbo wastegate setup? Sounds like you are running on spring pressure alone with maybe an open, cracked, split or misrouted vacuum line.
Yea i realize now that none of the hoses were necessary, except one that was clearly cracked. As far as i know it was a stock k04 in it. Replaced it with Ebay k04 with warranty. Tried routing BCS hoses both ways in case they were backwards. And i cant find any loose lines or connections
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 Old 08-02-2018, 07:05 AM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by wingcmdr View Post
Yea i realize now that none of the hoses were necessary, except one that was clearly cracked. As far as i know it was a stock k04 in it. Replaced it with Ebay k04 with warranty. Tried routing BCS hoses both ways in case they were backwards. And i cant find any loose lines or connections
As these cars age, those little vacuum lines harden and develop little cracks and splits that are hard to see. Auto parts stores sell it by the foot. Consider replacing all of it and see if that fixes the problem, especially the lines to and from the EBCS.
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 Old 08-25-2018, 08:56 PM   #25
 
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Default would someone be able to take a look at my logs too please

Ok so the misses bought a BL gen 1 mps about a month ago. Current mods we have installed are.
Cobb accessport
Single res delete
Short ram intake to turbo (corksport)
Turbosmart dual port bov 70:30
Corksport hpfp internals
Damond rear motor mount
It was driving awesome untill about a week and a half ago. I had installed the damond rear motor mount 3 days before this issue occurred.
So we were driving for about an hour on the freeway just cruising. Then hit the town. As we went turned a corner at an intersection at low rpm in second gear i went to accelerate back up. As i did this the car hesitated and felt like fuel cut. I had fuel slosh in my old subie but only if i was going ridiculously fast around a tight corner and it felt exactly the same. Like someone had slammed the brakes on almost haha. It continued to do it every now and then on the way home but only at low rpm at cornering speeds in 3rd and second. Also in conjunction with this i noticed we were only peaking boost at 13psi (3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th).
After a week of looking for boost leaks etc i can rule that out i think. I was about to replace the wastegate yesterday when i figured id do plugs at the same time. I never replaced the wastegate but replaced the plugs just to see how it goes. It drove fine again. I was happy we had fixed the issue. Peaking at 16-17 psi again and no issues of ‘bogging down’ but this joy only lasted for about 10 minutes then it was back to its old self again.
I decided to give it a rest until today. Has anyone experienced such issues before? I took some logs just before if anyone wants to have a look
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 Old 08-25-2018, 10:47 PM   #26
 
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Default here i my 3rd gear pull

sorry guys I'm very very frustrated. been chasing this issue for the last 2 weeks. if someone could tell me why I cant upload my datalog that would be awesome. cheers. I'm just over this car and I'm sick of reading through pages and pages of threads. ;please someone help me. I also cant make a new thread because of some ungodly reason so ive taken to these avenues. cheers. oh quickly also it may have something to do with it being an excel spreadsheet?
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 Old 08-25-2018, 11:44 PM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by dako21 View Post
oh quickly also it may have something to do with it being an excel spreadsheet?
Yes, it may. Make sure it's a .csv file (coma separated values). It would still open in Excel but it has a simpler plain text format.
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 Old 08-26-2018, 12:34 AM   #28
 
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ok so I just saved a 4th gear pull as csv. and I still cant upload. I click browse pc for the files and select the file but nothing shows on the mazdaspeedforums page. could this be that I'm a new user? and not allowed to post anything decent yet?
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 Old 08-26-2018, 01:48 AM   #29
 
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Default finally able to upload

here is a file of a 3rd gear pull
Attached Files
File Type: csv 3rd gear pull.csv (33.6 KB, 2 views)
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 Old 08-26-2018, 07:18 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by dako21 View Post
here is a file of a 3rd gear pull
Your wastegate duty cycles (WGDC) looks quite low (i.e. ~20-30%) through the meat of your rev range, and it needs to be higher in order for your car to make boost between about 3000 and 5500RPM. I would expect it to be closer to 70% as you get higher in the rev range at full throttle. (See this post over at Stratified Tuning: http://stratifiedauto.com/blog/what-...-turbo-setups/). Your car also seems to be limiting the throttle opening pretty substantially. Generally the "Throttle Position" and "Accelerator Pedal Position" should roughly track one another (except Throttle Position has an upper limit of ~75%).

It looks like you're running a Stage0 OTS map from COBB. That's probably your biggest problem.

Please make sure to log your Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) in your next log.

Are you sure that the Map that you are running is actually intended for the modifications on your car?
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File Type: png WGDC vs. RPM.png (63.3 KB, 4 views)
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 Old 08-26-2018, 10:50 AM   #31
 
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I'm trying to figure out what might have caused your hesitation. Low boost would simply feel down on power.

None of these symptoms point to your new RMM.

BTW, fuel cut / load cut feels nothing like hesitation. If you don't have your seatbelt on, your face will meet the steering wheel during a cut. Yes I'm exaggerating, slightly.
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 Old 08-26-2018, 04:47 PM   #32
 
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Thanks guys ill do a split log of my drive home thisafter noon. What exactly would you like me to select to log cheers. And yeh man it feels like ive hit a brick wall almost. Like ive stabbed the brakes sharply for about 0.5-1 second. Im starting to thinking that the boost issue may be due to the ecu trying to save itself from the underlying issue that is probably causing the fuel cut?
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 Old 08-27-2018, 05:54 AM   #33
 
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Default Found issue

Thanks for your time guys. I finally found the issue. I decided to pull apart my intake. Wallah. As i took the pod fulter off there it was. The insert inside the housing for the airflow meter had gone wonky and almost sideways. I assume blocking the air flow meter. Fixed this back on and car has been awesome all the way home. Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate it all
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