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 Old 05-03-2014, 08:58 AM   #1
 
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Default DIY EGR Delete

NOTE: Pictures will be up later, so far I just have the directions.

I didn't want to pay anything over $10 for a piece of aluminum and a bolt so I've decided to make my own EGR delete kit. Here is a quick guide on how to do it.

Step 1: Disconnect and remove the battery.

Step 2: Remove the TIP

Step 3: Locate and remove the brass pipe that exits the EGR valve. I believe they were 8mm bolts.

Step 4: Remove the gasket that is clipped to the brass pipe and trace it on a piece of metal. My choice of material was a wall outlet backing that I bought for $1.39 at Home Depot.

Step 5: Drill the two holes first and then cut out your gasket copy. I used metal shears but you can also use a grinder.

Step 6: Remover the IC piping going into the throttle body and remover your throttle body. I didn't unhook the electrical connection or the coolant lines, just moved the TB out of the way.

Step 7: Locate and remove the plug holding the other end of the brass pipe. I used an open ended wrench for 7/8, but I would recommend using a crow's foot wrench if you have it.

Step 8: Plug up the hole in the intake manifold. I don't remember the size of this plug off the top of my head because I had it laying around from my previous car's EGR block off.
I'll try to swing by O'reilly and get the size.

Step 9: Attach the gasket onto the block off plate that you cut earlier and put it over the original opening. My plate wasn't the exact size and shape of the original, but as long as its big enough to cover that hole I don't think it will be a problem.

Step 10: Re-install your TB, piping, TIP and battery.

After the block off my boost air temps dropped about 10-15 degrees Fahrenheit during my commute in the middle of the day in Houston.
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 Old 05-03-2014, 11:00 AM   #2
 
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Or just clamp the tube.
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 Old 05-03-2014, 11:34 AM   #3
 
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Can you get a good seal that way? I think that under pressure some fumes would still leak into the manifold.
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 Old 05-03-2014, 12:00 PM   #4
 
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You can clamp it twice. Or if you're that concerned, you can unplug it. If you have a Cobb AP, you can defeat the code.
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 Old 05-03-2014, 12:16 PM   #5
 
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I guess that's another way...just seems almost as much work as doing it my way. And yeah I'm aware of the AP CEL solution, thanks.
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 Old 05-03-2014, 12:22 PM   #6
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Unplugging it is the way to go
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 Old 05-03-2014, 12:34 PM   #7
 
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If its unplugged would it just stay closed all the time?
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 Old 05-03-2014, 12:39 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by RUS Mazda View Post
I guess that's another way...just seems almost as much work as doing it my way. And yeah I'm aware of the AP CEL solution, thanks.
How is unplugging a wiring harness just as much work as the 10 step ordeal you outlined?
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 Old 05-03-2014, 12:41 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by RUS Mazda View Post
If its unplugged would it just stay closed all the time?
Yes.
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 Old 05-03-2014, 12:48 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by Agent_Orange View Post
How is unplugging a wiring harness just as much work as the 10 step ordeal you outlined?
I wasn't talking about unplugging it being as much work hahaha. I was referring to the clamping because you still have to remove all the shit to get to the tube.

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny View Post
Yes.
I was not aware of that, thank you.
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Last edited by RUS Mazda; 05-03-2014 at 12:48 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 05-03-2014, 03:20 PM   #11
 
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Or just spend $10-$20 on the delete kit from JBR.

Of corse, DIY can always make for a fun project.
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 Old 05-04-2014, 08:44 AM   #12
 
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Nice!

Originally Posted by RUS Mazda View Post
So I don't really have any pictures, nor do I have any sizes or measurements, but this is a how to...

oh and yes its more work.
Patiently waiting for the pics..
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Originally Posted by Easter Bunny View Post
Unplugging it is the way to go
Sorry for bumping this, but simply unplugging the EGR will make it stay closed all the time without any downsides to it?

except for the DTC codes which i will have to permanently delete.

if so, why is everyone mounting all these egr delete kits when unplugging is the cheapest, simplest, and just as reliable? Just for the fact that you don't have a connector hanging loose?
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 Old 05-10-2014, 10:31 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Snip View Post
Sorry for bumping this, but simply unplugging the EGR will make it stay closed all the time without any downsides to it?

except for the DTC codes which i will have to permanently delete.

if so, why is everyone mounting all these egr delete kits when unplugging is the cheapest, simplest, and just as reliable? Just for the fact that you don't have a connector hanging loose?
The default position for the valve is closed. So as long as the mating surfaces are clean, it will stay shut.

Most people choose to do a full delete because it's fairly simple, and frees up some engine bay space.

For those that are worried about warranties, re-sale, and inspections, unplugging is the best bet.
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 Old 05-10-2014, 11:48 AM   #15
 
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Thanks mister agent

I am reflashing my speed tomorrow with an updated map, so might as well put in the P0401 and P0403 codes to be ignored and then disconnect the EGR.

I've read this topic, where a lot of good information comes by, as well as the discussion about doing this simple egr mod or the block off kit:
New egr delete kit
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 Old 05-10-2014, 01:19 PM   #16
 
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I know doing the primary and secondary delete made the BT install much easier along with being able to remove the intake manifold for valve cleaning was a lot easier.
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 Old 05-11-2014, 11:16 PM   #17
 
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yeah, i'm not discussing the fact you get a lot of free space under the hood, just about the technical fact if this could be done safely.

But reading some topics on MSF (like the one I quoted in my previous post) learned me that if you only look at the technical part, unplugging and erasing the DTC's is just as safe as doing a block off kit.

So yesterday I reflashed the speed and also unchecked the P0401 and P0403 and unplugged the EGR.
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 Old 05-21-2014, 07:39 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by Snip View Post
yeah, i'm not discussing the fact you get a lot of free space under the hood, just about the technical fact if this could be done safely.

But reading some topics on MSF (like the one I quoted in my previous post) learned me that if you only look at the technical part, unplugging and erasing the DTC's is just as safe as doing a block off kit.

So yesterday I reflashed the speed and also unchecked the P0401 and P0403 and unplugged the EGR.
So your P0403 was checked? IDK maps I look at it is not and some difference between one map and another like P0101 checked in one and not another...but all already have p0403 unchecked
Maybe just unchecked on MS6 maps and not used but seems it is on MS3:
Well...i learned the hard way
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 Old 05-26-2014, 12:05 PM   #19
 
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Yes, my P0401 and P0403 were checked.

The base map i used for self tuning my car, was the COBB stage1+SF+TIH+IC 93 octane v2.31 map for the 2007 MS3.

Been driving for ~300miles now and car still runs great, of course
Takes a little bit longer to get the coolant on temperature, but i knew that would be happening from previous EGR deleting mods on my VW's
Overall idle sounds a bit more smoother and so does driving in part throttle at low speeds (city driving).
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 Old 07-31-2018, 10:32 PM   #20
 
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Did you ever find the thread size for the intake manifold?

I am going to do the tube delete and just unplug the EGR so I don't have to mess with the coolant line for the turbo. That and bypass the throttle body coolant line.
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