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 Old 02-19-2014, 10:09 PM   #1
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Default How to: AC System Delete and Alternator Relocation

Ok so first thing to note are the part numbers.

Alternator: 11398 $249.99

The alternator is listed for an 08 Mazda 5



Fan Belt: 820k6 $19.99



So first step is to disconnect the battery.

Next thing is to remove the passenger front tire and wheel well shroud to expose the tensioner. It's easiest to just remove the front bumper at this time as well.

Remove the fan belt using a 14mm socket and elbow grease.

Then remove the three bolts holding the power steering pump that are 10mm. There's two on top and one underneath.



The bolt underneath you only need to loosen about halfway to swing the pump out of the way to reach the intake manifold bolt.



Then remove the black breather box on top of the manifold via four 8mm bolts.



Next remove the boost tubes on your intake manifold. And remove the five 10mm bolts on the manifold. You'll have to remove the two breather hoses on the mani, the dipstick mount bolt, the MAP sensor (one 8mm bolt) and PCV hose on the underside of the manifold to take it out.



If you're like me this is a great time to remove the stock PCV plate and install the alternative PERM plate. It's just eight 8mm bolts.

Now back to the delete. You'll have to let out the freon from the AC system by bleeding it out of the high pressure line located near the firewall by your Downpipe.



Once bled, remove the two lines on the compressor. They both are 10mm bolts.



Then disconnect the connector on the compressor and the four 12mm bolts mounting it to the motor. The photo shows the four mounting bolts and two lines.



Now with that out you can move to the stock alternator. First remove the Downpipe so you're not fighting it. Unplug the connectors to the crank position sensor as well as to the alternator. Unbolt the alternators four 12mm bolts and pull the sucker out. Look at all that room.



Next remove all the AC lines. There's multiple mounting points for these so just follow the lines and remove those necessary. Including the plug located on the backside of the valve cover near the intake.





This one is on the radiator fan.



Next remove the cooler via the four mounting bolts to the radiator.







The lines connecting to the cooler can be a pain but you won't need them so I just bent the shit out of them to squeeze them past where they route on the drivers side of the radiator. Dustin says he removed the whole front clip to make it easier to remove everything but I don't want all the added hassle.

Now the AC system completely removed time to mount your new alternator. Admittedly it can be a pain to squeeze in there, because it sits tucked snugly underneath the hose coming off the water pump. But it fits, and mounts with three bolts on the stock AC mounting points. The fourth is different and mounts much higher right beside the water pump hose. This photo is the four alternator mounting holes.



The one at the bottom of the pic is the upper mount. You can reuse the two longer mounting bolts from the AC compressor for the two lower mounts on the alternator, and you can go to Home Depot to purchase two new bolts for the upper mounts. (Shown in the picture below)



Mount the alternator. Then you'll need to unwrap the wire harness up to the cam position sensor.



This is a direct plug and play mod so the new connector on the alternator is exactly the same as the stock alternator. If you take the unwrapped wires and fold them to follow the harness back down the length is perfect to connect to the new alternator location. Then Re-wrap the harness to protect all the wires.



Now you can just plug the crank sensor back in using the same path it followed before. Install your new fan belt. It'll follow essentially the same path just minus the stock location alternator. Here's the stock fan belt diagram FYI.



Now in reverse order reinstall Downpipe, intake mani, boost tubes, and the power steering pump.

Total weight reduction: ~25lbs.

Enjoy your new alternator.





Now you'll be ready to mob with a little less weight and a badass new mod. And just to clarify this mod is compatible with both Gen 1 and Gen 2 Speed 3's

Update: have had this mod on my car successfully for over a year. No charging issues or any electrical issues whatsoever. The engine bay seems to stay much cooler than before. I think because more airflow over and down the rear of the motor...
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 Old 02-19-2014, 11:38 PM   #2
 
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You could also do the MX-5 non ac idler pulley and belt for about $100 total (msm pricing) if you dont care about relocating the alternator.
Pulley Needed for AC Delete- LF1715940C
Belt Needed for AC Delete- 87.5 length 6 groove belt
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 Old 02-19-2014, 11:46 PM   #3
 
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Nice write up, Pics with new alternator location?. Oh and to anyone planning on doing this who hasn't before, taking the a\c system out is a million maybe trillion times easier then putting it back in.
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 Old 02-20-2014, 04:39 AM   #4
 
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Yes!
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 Old 02-20-2014, 08:49 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by kilo101 View Post
Nice write up, Pics with new alternator location?. Oh and to anyone planning on doing this who hasn't before, taking the a\c system out is a million maybe trillion times easier then putting it back in.

Fixed. Added photos of alternator in the location.
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 Old 02-20-2014, 10:14 AM   #6
 
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Great mod & frees up a butt load of room back there!

Alas, not giving up my life support, er..., AC system, for the extra real estate! If I lived up north I damn sure be considering this tho!
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 Old 02-23-2014, 01:30 AM   #7
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Yeah... I did it for the AC delete mostly to lose some weight. But if I can also relocate the alternator to get it away from the 500+ temps its exposed to being underneath the DP then its win win. Plus it will now be easier to work on PTO/axles if necessary. And removing the motor from the engine bay will be a little easier as well.
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 Old 02-24-2014, 07:34 AM   #8
 
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@Realgib3;
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 Old 02-27-2014, 11:06 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Etipp98 View Post
You could also do the MX-5 non ac idler pulley and belt for about $100 total (msm pricing) if you dont care about relocating the alternator.
Pulley Needed for AC Delete- LF1715940C
Belt Needed for AC Delete- 87.5 length 6 groove belt

Im guessing this belt can be found at any local autoparts store?
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 Old 02-27-2014, 11:33 AM   #10
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87.5 inches 6 grooves =
part #875k6
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 Old 02-27-2014, 12:21 PM   #11
 
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Thank you sir! and great write up......I just dont kno if i want to spend that $250 on an alternator....May just delete the A/C for now.
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 Old 02-27-2014, 01:50 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by mazdafreak View Post
Thank you sir! and great write up......I just dont kno if i want to spend that $250 on an alternator....May just delete the A/C for now.
I was thinking the same exact thing, but I grabbed a refurb on ebay for $80 shipped.
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 Old 02-27-2014, 01:57 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Realgib3 View Post
I was thinking the same exact thing, but I grabbed a refurb on ebay for $80 shipped.

Ahh nice nice......You have the sellers name? Ill have to look around for that now.
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 Old 03-17-2014, 10:46 PM   #14
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Any of you do the delete?
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 Old 03-17-2014, 10:48 PM   #15
 
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Nope I'm a pussy. I did it to one car once and regretted it the first day the Sun came out.
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 Old 03-18-2014, 07:26 PM   #16
 
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Car is taken apart right now.....May do just the delete.


Dont want to spend money on a alternator which mine works perfectly atm lol
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 Old 03-19-2014, 12:56 AM   #17
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It's worth it man! You're already that far invested in the project. Idk IMO if you're getting that far in to it my thoughts are why not do it.
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 Old 03-19-2014, 04:55 AM   #18
 
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Look around and you can score this alternator for as low as $45. I wish I had done it when my car was apart, now I dread digging back into it but it will be done at some point for sure.
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 Old 03-19-2014, 11:57 AM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Look around and you can score this alternator for as low as $45. I wish I had done it when my car was apart, now I dread digging back into it but it will be done at some point for sure.

Yeah saw a couple on ebay and amazon for $60+shipping.


But if it goes out I'm gonna be pissed. Lol.
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 Old 03-23-2014, 11:56 AM   #20
 
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Thanks for a really great how-to!
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 Old 03-24-2014, 05:58 AM   #21
 
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I know it's been mentioned before, but what's the consensus on the exact belt we need to use with this setup?
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 Old 03-24-2014, 07:21 AM   #22
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Literally the second line of the how to man. It's 820k6.
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 Old 03-24-2014, 10:07 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by Realgib3 View Post
I know it's been mentioned before, but what's the consensus on the exact belt we need to use with this setup?

Alternator: 11398 $249.99The alternator is listed for an 08 Mazda 5
—Fan Belt: 820k6 $19.99




*Just A/C delete*

You could also do the MX-5 non ac idler pulley and belt for about $100 total (msm pricing) if you dont care about relocating the alternator.

Pulley Needed for AC Delete- LF1715940C
Belt Needed for AC Delete- 87.5 length 6 groove belt
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 Old 03-24-2014, 06:08 PM   #24
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Or you can grab an alternator off eBay for 60 and then the belt for 20. Less than 100 and you have delete and relocation
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 Old 03-24-2014, 06:34 PM   #25
 
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Yeah i kno that, i was just reqouting everything for Realgib3.
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 Old 06-03-2014, 06:38 PM   #26
 
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@ABQ Speed6; I finally got the Mazda 5 alternator and bolted it to the block, the fat radiator hose is now touching the alternator, is this a problem? I guess it is possible that the alternator gets hot and burns a hole in the radiator hose.
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 Old 06-04-2014, 11:34 AM   #27
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Well the alternator, especially in the new location will never get hot enough to burn a hole in the hose. Would be concerned about rubbing though. Might need slight adjustment to the hose just avoid the two touching
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 Old 06-04-2014, 09:58 PM   #28
 
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Originally Posted by ABQ Speed6 View Post
Well the alternator, especially in the new location will never get hot enough to burn a hole in the hose. Would be concerned about rubbing though. Might need slight adjustment to the hose just avoid the two touching
I need to extend the hose that goes into the thermostat by about 2 inches to avoid rubbing. But I just noticed that even if I do that, the hose will still rub on the upper left ear where one of the bolts goes.



This is because of the angle at which the thermostat neck runs.



I am not sure if I can source a thermostat with the neck running straight out rather than angled. I am searching the forum and someone used the Stant 48728 thermostat that has a longer neck but still angled.

Assuming the neck on the Stant is at least 1.5" longer than on the stock unit, it still looks like the cheapest and easiest solution for pushing the hose out and away from the alternator although it will not eliminate rubbing against the ear.

Stant 48728Stant 48728
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 Old 06-05-2014, 10:45 AM   #29
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Huh. I'll have to take a look at mine because I don't remember running into that problem. Stand by
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 Old 06-05-2014, 12:03 PM   #30
 
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Mine is just like that in a 3
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 Old 06-05-2014, 12:14 PM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by Realgib3 View Post
Mine is just like that in a 3
You mean rubbing against the alternator body, the ear, both?

I just ordered the Stant and the Beck Arnley 143-0838 thermostat, the latter has a longer neck (1" I think) just like the Stant but it is supposed to fit better, will report back when I get them. Looking at the pictures I posted above, either may require shaving some material from the thermostat ear to clear.

Beck Arnley 143-0838 ThermostatBeck Arnley 143-0838 Thermostat
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 Old 06-05-2014, 02:06 PM   #32
 
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Aaaaargh, FML, there is no way a longer plastic neck will fit.
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 Old 06-07-2014, 02:50 AM   #33
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Seems like the best alternative may just be to use a protective sleeve over the radiator hose...? Sorry haven't had the chance to look. Life's crazy right now
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 Old 06-07-2014, 06:37 PM   #34
 
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Ok, the thermostat with a longer neck works as the angle of the neck is smaller and clears the alternator with ease.
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 Old 06-09-2014, 07:52 PM   #35
 
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And it is , just look at all the space in the back, ooh, aah!
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 Old 06-09-2014, 08:37 PM   #36
jbr makes fall-a-parts.
 
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I think Mark was confused on the belt topic, as it was called a fanbelt, yes does not power any fans.
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 Old 06-09-2014, 09:43 PM   #37
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Default How to: AC System Delete and Alternator Relocation

I know damn the electric fans and generic names for parts haha.

Code monkey good shit! Sorry don't know how to tag. And it'll be 10x easier if you ever need access to the oil return!
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 Old 06-14-2014, 06:11 PM   #38
 
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Ok, I took the car to the track and the new setup survived three 20-minute sessions so all is good. I suspect the location of engine mounts was engineered taking into account the overall weight of the engine with all the pulleys and components, now I get noticeably more rear view mirror vibrations at idle though I am not worried about it.
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 Old 12-20-2014, 01:25 PM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by Etipp98 View Post
You could also do the MX-5 non ac idler pulley and belt for about $100 total (msm pricing) if you dont care about relocating the alternator.
Pulley Needed for AC Delete- LF1715940C
Belt Needed for AC Delete- 87.5 length 6 groove belt


Is this the one?

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 Old 12-20-2014, 04:33 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by mazdafreak View Post
Is this the one?

Appears so.
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