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 Old 12-20-2014, 09:50 PM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by Etipp98 View Post
Appears so.

Yeah I just saw the pic u posted in another thread. I was thinking it was suppose to have mount holes like the a/c with a pulley lol.

But thanks!


Posted the pics so ppl can see it replaces where one of the bolts hold the timing cover
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 Old 12-21-2014, 12:24 PM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by Etipp98 View Post
You could also do the MX-5 non ac idler pulley and belt for about $100 total (msm pricing) if you dont care about relocating the alternator.
Pulley Needed for AC Delete- LF1715940C
Belt Needed for AC Delete- 87.5 length 6 groove belt
Does anyone have photos or a diy, or a better explantion of this. I dont want to get involved with replacing the alternator.

Nevermind its already been explained.
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 Old 03-14-2015, 12:43 PM   #43
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Has anyone taken the time and spent the money to do the full AC Delete and alternator relocation?
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 Old 03-14-2015, 10:40 PM   #44
 
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there isn't much money involved, not sure what you mean.
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 Old 03-16-2015, 05:23 PM   #45
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People saying they don't want to spend the money for an alternator... I was being facetious... Kinda
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 Old 03-16-2015, 05:24 PM   #46
 
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I found a reman on ebay for 40 shipped.
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 Old 04-07-2015, 11:34 AM   #47
 
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Fucking sticky this shit already!!!!
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 Old 04-13-2015, 03:30 PM   #48
 
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So was the thermostat a problem on everyones? or just the speed6?
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 Old 04-14-2015, 05:35 AM   #49
 
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Im trying to remove the ac lines from the firewall on my ms3. Does anyone know how to do it?
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 Old 04-14-2015, 06:13 AM   #50
 
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Originally Posted by Last_Loser View Post
So was the thermostat a problem on everyones? or just the speed6?
No idea, I do not think anybody ever reported back, but even if it is a problem on a speed3, the fix is like $40.

Originally Posted by bdm665 View Post
Im trying to remove the ac lines from the firewall on my ms3. Does anyone know how to do it?
Do not remember exactly how I did it, I think some violent action was required, make sure to plug the firewall holes, I have custom plates riveted in place of the lines.
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 Old 04-14-2015, 06:23 AM   #51
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
No idea, I do not think anybody ever reported back, but even if it is a problem on a speed3, the fix is like $40.



Do not remember exactly how I did it, I think some violent action was required, make sure to plug the firewall holes, I have custom plates riveted in place of the lines.
Yeah I said fuck it and bought the thermostat just in case.
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 Old 04-14-2015, 07:43 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Do not remember exactly how I did it, I think some violent action was required, make sure to plug the firewall holes, I have custom plates riveted in place of the lines.


Exactly. If I remember correctly I think it took a fair amount of muscle.
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 Old 04-14-2015, 12:38 PM   #53
 
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Originally Posted by ABQ Speed6 View Post
Exactly. If I remember correctly I think it took a fair amount of muscle.
Can you just cut and nipple them?
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 Old 04-14-2015, 02:17 PM   #54
 
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I cant get them off!!!!!
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 Old 04-14-2015, 02:55 PM   #55
 
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Hmmm, I don't remember what the lines look like on a speed6, but they did look different. I think I just had them cut off and then pulled them out from the cabin side? If you ever plan on reusing them, this may be a different story though.
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 Old 04-14-2015, 08:21 PM   #56
 
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I was trying to keep them intact. Just incase i want to sell them or use them fown the road. They have a plastic ring behind them to. Not sure what their for.
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 Old 04-15-2015, 07:54 PM   #57
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Good luck! It's doable just a lot more work. Most of the front clip needs to be removed to keep those lines intact
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 Old 04-15-2015, 09:40 PM   #58
 
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Originally Posted by bdm665 View Post
I cant get them off!!!!!

Because you need the a/c disconnect tool.

6 Piece Fuel Line and A/C Quick Disconnect Tool
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 Old 04-15-2015, 10:23 PM   #59
 
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Originally Posted by mazdafreak View Post
Because you need the a/c disconnect tool. 6 Piece Fuel Line and A/C Quick Disconnect Tool
^^^this. You just put it around the line coming from the firewall and press it into the connection the pull the line coming from the engine side. All auto parts stores have these. There are pricier ones but there are also some cheap ones that work as well.
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 Old 04-26-2015, 11:56 AM   #60
 
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865K6 Belt needed for the following:

Stock location alternator
Gen 2 Idler Pulley bracket in Gen 1 Power steering location (Deleted P/S)
Miata Idler pulley for A/C delete
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 Old 04-30-2015, 05:54 PM   #61
 
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Does anyone have the part number to buy belt from the dealer? I have just the A/c delete pulley
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 Old 04-22-2016, 08:47 PM   #62
 
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Because I switched to manual steering, now is a perfect time to install the genpu idler that replaces the p/s pump, part # L51015930A. The pulley is a bit smaller and requires a shorter belt -- 810k6 instead of a 820k6.
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 Old 08-28-2016, 01:48 PM   #63
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Ok, the thermostat with a longer neck works as the angle of the neck is smaller and clears the alternator with ease.
Just to make sure, this was the Beck Arnley 143-0838 thermostat that worked perfectly? Because I just overnight shipped mine!
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 Old 08-28-2016, 02:28 PM   #64
 
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Originally Posted by levon.mark View Post
Just to make sure, this was the Beck Arnley 143-0838 thermostat that worked perfectly? Because I just overnight shipped mine!
Shit, I don't remember exactly but I think it was the Stant.
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 Old 08-28-2016, 02:35 PM   #65
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Shit, I don't remember exactly but I think it was the Stant.
Oh god. Know the part number for Stant? I don't want to be screwed when I install this all

EDIT: I see the Stant PN

EDIT 3: Stant one is instock locally. So I will just order both and report back here to which one it actually is. I found this writeup confusing and want to clear stuff up for people.
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 Old 09-13-2016, 10:27 AM   #66
 
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@levon.mark; so was it the Stant?
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 Old 09-14-2016, 02:17 AM   #67
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
@levon.mark; so was it the Stant?
Lol I never even bothered to take it off and try either of them. Stock one clears fine (in my opinion). Long story short, engine was out of car to fix oil leak and I'm heading back to college tomorrow so if I had more time I would have tried both. I will try them during christmas break when I install my JMF. I still have both thermostats in the box so I won't mix them up.

Sorry guys.
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 Old 03-13-2018, 12:32 PM   #68
 
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First off, thanks for this awesome write up! I followed the directions to the T. The only question I have is there more slack with this new setup than OEM? I didnt even have to mess with the tensioner to put the new belt on. I bought a Duralast 820k6 from autozone. When I rotate the pulley above the alternator, everything rotates (except the crankshaft) it just doesnt seem very taught. I did this on my 2011 genpu.
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 Old 03-13-2018, 01:24 PM   #69
 
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Just FYI, I exchanged that belt for a duralast 805k6 at autozone, and it fits perfect, used the tensioner and slid it on........they must have changed something because the belt originally recommended in this thread is definitely too lose as of 3/13/2018 It had alot of slack in it. So if you are relocating your alternator on a genpu use item #806k6
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