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 Old 12-21-2013, 02:37 PM   #1
 
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Default How to Change Your Shifter Cable

hey guys this is long overdue been busy with stuff and finally have time to make a thread on this.

First off disconnect your battery
IMG_4145.JPG

then remove your battery and intake
IMG_4146.JPG

pop off the cables
IMG_4149.JPG
this is right by the turbo
IMG_4150.JPG

then you go inside and start removing the center console and radio
20131217_194813.jpg

20131217_194817.jpg
if you need help in this part i can get pics on that too

after that just pop off the cables same way you did before

Next pull the carpet back so you got room to work with and unplug the box and there are three bolts holding it down one on the drivers side and two on passenger
20131217_185946.jpg

you also gotta shift the plugs and the vents going to the rear so you can maneuver the plate out
20131217_170309.jpg

if you want you can cut a patch out off the plate or attempt to move it aside your choice
20131217_192224.jpg
20131217_192235.jpg

I couldn't get the pics of where the bolts are but if you get a descent sized 10mm wrench you could loosen the nuts and back them by hand barely and torque on them
at this part you should probably have a friend help you here pushing the cables through find the way you do best and not crack the hvac case and have a huge hole lol (my mistake)
IMG_4152.JPG

after you get it out get yourself a beer the hard part is over and the easy part begins
IMG_4153.JPG

then just do everything in reverse order and done!
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File Type: jpg 20131217_185931.jpg (2.87 MB, 98 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4147.JPG (3.85 MB, 87 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4148.JPG (3.98 MB, 75 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4151.JPG (3.17 MB, 70 views)
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 Old 12-22-2013, 06:23 AM   #2
 
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Awesome, happy to see we can avoid gutting the interior.

Much appreciated.
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 Old 12-22-2013, 07:41 AM   #3
 
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Are those stock shifter cables?

I have a TWM full replacement and I'm wondering if I should pick up some shorter cables because right now it forces the stock cables down to the floor, so they're curved. I've heard about people having kinked cables because of this.
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 Old 12-22-2013, 09:57 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by Cheapspeed View Post
Are those stock shifter cables?

I have a TWM full replacement and I'm wondering if I should pick up some shorter cables because right now it forces the stock cables down to the floor, so they're curved. I've heard about people having kinked cables because of this.
yeah they are stock not sure the speed6 has aftermarket cables for you swapping them should take the most 3 hours bc you got speed3
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 Old 12-27-2013, 06:17 AM   #5
 
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I know I'm late on this one, but that's awesome that you did that without (like mentioned above) gutting the entire dash.

How much did you get the new shifter cables for and where? If you don't mind. I've been needing some and I think I found the right part, but it's about $260. Just wanted to double check @ciezczak1;
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 Old 12-27-2013, 07:10 AM   #6
 
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Sounds about right for price, unless used.

Also, for the dude above, @Cheapspeed; no aftermarket is available.
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 Old 12-27-2013, 08:04 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by DVM17 View Post
I know I'm late on this one, but that's awesome that you did that without (like mentioned above) gutting the entire dash.

How much did you get the new shifter cables for and where? If you don't mind. I've been needing some and I think I found the right part, but it's about $260. Just wanted to double check @ciezczak1;
Yeah i got mine for 290 free shipping from onlinemazdaparts.com other places were cheaper but charged an arm and leg for shipping

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 Old 12-27-2013, 08:05 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by jm211 View Post
Sounds about right for price, unless used.

Also, for the dude above, @Cheapspeed; no aftermarket is available.

Originally Posted by ciezczak1 View Post
Yeah i got mine for 290 free shipping from onlinemazdaparts.com other places were cheaper but charged an arm and leg for shipping

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
Awesome, thanks guys.
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 Old 01-12-2014, 12:13 PM   #9
 
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This is exactly how I changed mine about a year ago. I kept reading that you had to take the entire dash apart and I was determined that I wasn't going to do that. And I didn't.
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 Old 01-12-2014, 12:46 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by Bleupit80 View Post
This is exactly how I changed mine about a year ago. I kept reading that you had to take the entire dash apart and I was determined that I wasn't going to do that. And I didn't.
Haha same I said fuck that if rather drive on a broken shifter cable

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 Old 01-12-2014, 06:13 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by ciezczak1 View Post
Haha same I said fuck that if rather drive on a broken shifter cable

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I actually rigged mine with zip ties and drove like that for about 3 months...lol. My cable wasn't snapped I just broke the plastic sleeve under the rubber boot by the end of the cable because I installed the JBR SSP and didn't put in the spacers that go under the bracket...lol.
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 Old 01-27-2014, 04:24 PM   #12
 
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Just did the shift cables over the weekend. A few notes that people doing this in the future might find handy:
  • Have a buddy help out. It can be done alone, but don't do it that way unless you must.

  • Be aggressive as hell when cutting back that rubber and insulation that is covering the shifter cable's mounting point. If you think you have enough to get to the nuts, remove more. I was able to get a ratcheting wrench on both the nuts without too much issue after doing so.

Thanks to @ciezczak1; for answering the questions I had, including a particularly stupid one about a clip. Big thanks to @Ryguy; for coming by to help despite his desire to burn my car to the ground.
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 Old 02-08-2014, 05:53 PM   #13
 
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i'm so glad this write up was done. i'll be attempting this soon. my zip ties are only holding a couple months at a time.
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 Old 02-09-2014, 11:07 AM   #14
 
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Very good write up, indeed I did end up using your method. With a machine shop and 30 hands at your disposal, it really is quite easy.

Only thing missing was pictures of the actual area you're working, the nuts and what not, which I have below.

Start to finish, first pic is the actual plate on the cables held down by the 2 10 mm nuts, next a close up of the plate, next the nuts themselves, next sliding them out, next the opening left when they're out and finally using the pry bar to get the new ones in.

Couple necessary tools, 10 mm racketing wrench, powerful magnet (for when you drop the nuts trying to put them back on lol), a pry bar to create space and a shit load of patience. Also, be careful with the airbag module (3 yellow plugs and gray box), and I opted to remove the metal clip on the rubber "holster" for the cables, it's easier sliding them in 1 at a time vs both thru the tiny ass opening.

Working diligently, this can be accomplished in a little over 1 hr 30 mins, no dash removal necessary, only the center console.

@ciezczak1; Thank you again for the blueprint!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Shifter Cable 3.jpg (890.8 KB, 93 views)
File Type: jpg Shifter Cable 4.jpg (764.0 KB, 92 views)
File Type: jpg Shifter Cable 5.jpg (741.5 KB, 72 views)
File Type: jpg Shifter Cable 6.jpg (725.8 KB, 89 views)
File Type: jpg Shifter Cable 7.jpg (878.1 KB, 86 views)
File Type: jpg Shifter Cable 8.jpg (948.7 KB, 81 views)
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 Old 02-13-2014, 02:53 PM   #15
 
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I'm changing mine out right now...good right up.
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 Old 02-13-2014, 04:13 PM   #16
 
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Let us know how it goes an add any advice you may have


"Tap tap tap it in"
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 Old 02-13-2014, 04:24 PM   #17
 
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If you have any questions pm me and ill get back to asap

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 Old 02-13-2014, 08:22 PM   #18
 
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Well...I got the shift cables changed out with the help of a buddy of mine. ciezczak1 thanks for the how to. It helped me out greatly.
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 Old 02-13-2014, 08:23 PM   #19
 
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So about 4 hours or so?


"Tap tap tap it in"
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 Old 02-13-2014, 08:26 PM   #20
 
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Now on to changing out the rear diff mounts.

Would of been done sooner but I took my time. I wasn't in any rush.

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 Old 02-13-2014, 08:27 PM   #21
 
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Default How to Change Your Shifter Cable

Well that is very good to know


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 Old 02-17-2014, 08:53 PM   #22
 
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Omfg I payed a shop to do this last year cost me an ass load of money. If I knew that I could have done it like this would have saved that money for go-fast shit. A+ Sr like u said long needed how-to.
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 Old 02-28-2014, 09:21 PM   #23
 
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And Done!! Well that was not a fun job at all. Getting the cables out wasn't too bad. It was getting the plate back over the studs. then trying to get the nuts back on the studs that was the bitch. With the sharp plastic pieces hanging down i cut both hands all to shit.

My only advice for this job would be when trying to get the nuts back on, use an extension magnet, have one person hold the nut over the stud with the magnet and the other screw the nut back on.

another bit of advice, don't ever break one of the white pieces that go inside the ends of the cables that go over the ball. we spent another hour breaking out one off the old cables and shaving it down to fit in the new cables. The mechanism is pressed together and glued so there is no taking it apart easily.

this how to definitely saved us a lot of time though not having to tear the dash apart.
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 Old 03-01-2014, 03:13 PM   #24
 
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Doing this now.... have the center console and head unit off. Have the cables disconnected from the transmission and from the shifter as well as the rubber grommet by the turbo and I'm stuck on the stupid bracket. Can't even see it. Do you need to just put a wrench up there and hope it gets on the nut? Lol.
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 Old 03-02-2014, 08:17 AM   #25
 
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Pretty much lol but you should see it if you found the plate

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 Old 03-02-2014, 01:21 PM   #26
 
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If you clear enough sound deadening and carpet you should be able to see the driver side nut easily. Passenger side is more of a feel around game


"Tap tap tap it in"
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 Old 03-07-2014, 07:45 AM   #27
 
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Thanks for the insight of this thread guys! Got it all buttoned up last night and I couldn't be happier.

ALL of my previous issues that I assumed was the shifter cage, was actually the shifter cable. So now it's crisp and notchy. didn't take the dash out, just cut back a lot of the insulation as suggested and got the stupid bracket on the studs. (took forever)

but now at least I have really good shifts. Coupled with my twm STS and jbr ssp, it's amazing.

Thanks Again!
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 Old 05-10-2014, 02:31 PM   #28
 
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Thanks for this....I need this done asap and didn't want to remove the dash lol
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 Old 05-10-2014, 09:12 PM   #29
 
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You are lucky to have this thread I need up paying for mine

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 Old 05-10-2014, 09:16 PM   #30
 
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I'd help install it if close or bring it to my house

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 Old 05-10-2014, 11:40 PM   #31
 
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Ended* this was a year ago

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 Old 05-15-2014, 03:51 PM   #32
 
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My shifter cable broke in the same spot I used 4 zip ties to hold it together for a longterm quick fix lol feels great
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 Old 05-16-2014, 11:44 PM   #33
 
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It's going to break theirs no long term fix for this other than just doing it

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 Old 07-17-2014, 09:32 AM   #34
 
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i've had to this twice and i got it done rather quick with some help but i wanted to know if a lot of people are having problems with theirs. I blame the JBR SSP i had because i owned the car for over two years before i even put that thing on and never had issues. Still love JBR though.
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 Old 07-22-2014, 12:31 PM   #35
 
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Yeah my shifter cable broke bc of the jbr adjustable shift plate

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 Old 07-22-2014, 06:12 PM   #36
 
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Mine broke because I DIDN'T install the two spacers that raise the brace with the JBR SSP. I swapped out my cable without taking the dash out and installed the spacers and haven't had a problem yet.
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 Old 08-06-2014, 06:59 AM   #37
 
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Just ordered the cable today, hope it gets here quick. Cost was $325.00/w shipping. Local dealers wanted $374.00 plus tax. Hope replacing it isn't to difficult
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 Old 08-06-2014, 09:28 AM   #38
 
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Well it will be. Just take your time and cut away as much sound deadening as possible
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 Old 01-02-2016, 12:34 AM   #39
 
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I have ordered my cables today. So are you pushing the cables from inside the car through the hole or pushing the cables from the engine inside the cabin?
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 Old 01-02-2016, 03:02 AM   #40
 
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when removing the cables they come into the cabin. when installing, start in the cabin and push through. I highly recommend having at least a second set of hands under the hood to help guide the cables
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