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 Old 12-20-2013, 04:43 AM   #81
 
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Originally Posted by jucca View Post
Just done valve cleaning, along with IC, manifold and throttle body wash.
For everyone who haven't clean his valve yet, look at almost free 40WHP gain, get the job done ASAP
Mine 6s is 95.000miles

You're kidding me. There is that much sitting on the table?? I put this off way too long.
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 Old 12-20-2013, 05:56 AM   #82
 
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There's not that much normally-
I'm suspect cooler ambient temps added something to that result
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 Old 12-20-2013, 06:16 AM   #83
 
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Ambient temps was almost the same. Same road, almost same conditions, before and after.
Will not say 100% that all gain is only by valve cleaning, but also IC manifold and throttle body, it must be taken out for accessing valves, so it's good time for cleaning.
Intake temps are 10F difference.
I'am at 120.000km, a cleaning was never done before
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 Old 12-30-2013, 08:19 PM   #84
 
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Found the answer to my question! I should quit being lazy and read
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 Old 01-03-2014, 07:49 PM   #85
 
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Did this about a week ago and my idle rpm dropped 300 rpm and got wayyyy smoother. Throttle response is improved greatly and the car pulls much harder. Surprisingly at 102k miles and having never been cleaned(at least since 52k) they didn't look much worse than many of the pictures posted here. Checked the piston tops with a boroscope while I had everything apart and holy crap, they have about 2 mm of carbon buildup. Left them alone, going to try seafoam here soon.
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 Old 01-03-2014, 08:25 PM   #86
 
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LULZ, I have cleaned many valves, none of which were worse than mine. I did not receive any mentionable gains.
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 Old 01-03-2014, 09:11 PM   #87
 
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Cobb dyno'd before and after cleaning the valves...there wasnt really any power improvement based on flow, however, they said they could run more timing after the valves were cleaned.
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 Old 01-03-2014, 09:41 PM   #88
 
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I wouldn't doubt no real power gain, but a little quicker spool during daily driving and better throttle response were definitely noticeable. The main gain for me was the smoothness at idle. Mine were gunked up to a point of no longer properly sealing to the head. I had to keep refilling the b12 every 15-20 minutes.

Might have just been evaporating though I suppose.

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 Old 02-26-2014, 03:00 PM   #89
 
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I'll preface this post by stating that I'm a newb. I will be doing a thorough cleaning of my valves as soon as the temp raises above 5 degrees fahrenheit around here. I understand the steps to removing the manifold and everything, but I have not been able to find any info about valve position (again, pry a dumb question) when physically adding b12 cleaner. I noticed some comments about turning the crank but nothing that is really descriptive. Thanks!
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 Old 02-26-2014, 03:17 PM   #90
 
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Originally Posted by Prallell6 View Post
I'll preface this post by stating that I'm a newb. I will be doing a thorough cleaning of my valves as soon as the temp raises above 5 degrees fahrenheit around here. I understand the steps to removing the manifold and everything, but I have not been able to find any info about valve position (again, pry a dumb question) when physically adding b12 cleaner. I noticed some comments about turning the crank but nothing that is really descriptive. Thanks!
"The (21mm) crank pulley is on the right, turn clockwise to turn the engine, it will be at TDC when it gets toughest to turn (check valves are TDC by looking, then pouring some B12 in and see if it stays put)"

Refer to the pic in the OP.
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 Old 02-26-2014, 03:21 PM   #91
 
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Originally Posted by JgamB View Post
"The (21mm) crank pulley is on the right, turn clockwise to turn the engine, it will be at TDC when it gets toughest to turn (check valves are TDC by looking, then pouring some B12 in and see if it stays put)"

Refer to the pic in the OP.
Thank you, sir.
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 Old 02-26-2014, 04:21 PM   #92
 
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Yeah I did the same except I used gasoline instead of B12, figured if gas seeped into the cylinder, wouldn't be as bad as B12.
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 Old 02-26-2014, 04:24 PM   #93
 
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Gasoline is the finest and cheapest of solvents...
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 Old 02-26-2014, 04:33 PM   #94
 
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Originally Posted by theurgy View Post
Yeah I did the same except I used gasoline instead of B12, figured if gas seeped into the cylinder, wouldn't be as bad as B12.
How long did you let it soak for? You think it would make removal any easier using the b-12?

Also, when I'm at tdc I need to be in compression stroke so valves are closed, correct?
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 Old 02-26-2014, 04:38 PM   #95
 
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Oh no.. I just used gas to test if the valves are seated properly.
After that I used a harsh cleaner (Mazda Zoom Cleaner)
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 Old 02-26-2014, 04:50 PM   #96
 
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ahh, good call. I'll probably go that route as well.
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 Old 05-01-2014, 01:01 PM   #97
 
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Just finished cleaning my intake valves using the soaking/walnut shell/scraping method. Here are my observations. I did NOT remove my air cleaner or battery and I was able to get everything out. Note that I do have a MazdaSpeed Blue CAI. This is still one of the more difficult projects I've done.

When I did get it apart, my valves at 80kmi looked like a team of squirrels crawled in there and collectively shit 8 times all over my valves...THICK! I was having the smoking turbo issue previously and was lucky enough to get it fixed at the dealership for free. I soaked half the valves in Seafoam and the other half in B12. The B12 was MUCH more powerful and the Seafoam did virtually nothing! Keep in mind I only soaked for an hour because a hot girl could call me and I don't want to waste time torquing on my car. Since I had excellent results cleaning my EGR with oven cleaner, I wonder if it might be the way to go for future valve cleaning?

I cleaned out the EGR stuff a few months ago because I was throwing a code. Soaking all the parts with a little foaming oven cleaner and some time worked like a charm and the EGR works perfectly now...meaning no CEL, but constant cancer in the form of recirculated exhaust. Maybe I'll get rid of it.

Some suggestions:
-Use B-12 NOT Seafoam!
-The vinyl tube method didn't seal well for me and created a HUGE mess everywhere, even with a vacuum running. I would consider using modeling clay next time to seal off the intake port, use a LITTLE walnut, and a LOT of air to turbulate it. Maybe take the sparks out to help vent?
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 Old 05-01-2014, 02:03 PM   #98
 
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Well, did a hot girl call you?...or do you feel guilty for not scrubbing more?
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 Old 05-01-2014, 02:03 PM   #99
 
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Originally Posted by BlueMetalJacket View Post
Keep in mind I only soaked for an hour because a hot girl could call me and I don't want to waste time torquing on my car.
you need to get your priorities straight
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 Old 05-02-2014, 07:47 AM   #100
 
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Originally Posted by BlueMetalJacket View Post
The B12 was MUCH more powerful and the Seafoam did virtually nothing!
This is why I laugh when people talk about pouring Seafoam through their intake with a huge sense of accomplishment.

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 Old 05-13-2014, 12:21 PM   #101
 
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Is there any reason to clean the exhaust valves and replace the VVT chain tensioner simultaneously with respect to parts removal and access or are the tasks totally separate?

I need to do both and don't want to R&R gaskets, parts twice.
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 Old 05-13-2014, 01:41 PM   #102
 
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Originally Posted by Lex2007 View Post
Is there any reason to clean the exhaust valves and replace the VVT chain tensioner simultaneously with respect to parts removal and access or are the tasks totally separate?

I need to do both and don't want to R&R gaskets, parts twice.
There is no need to clean the exhaust valves since they get hot enough to burn that shit off. You do realize that we do not open the valve cover to clean the valves, right?
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 Old 05-13-2014, 01:50 PM   #103
 
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Originally Posted by himurax13 View Post
There is no need to clean the exhaust valves since they get hot enough to burn that shit off. You do realize that we do not open the valve cover to clean the valves, right?
The valves and the runners. Both get dirty.

Yes I realize the valve cover doesn't come off to get to the runners. I'm asking about anything peripheral to that which might need to be removed. I don't wanna do things twice if avoidable.
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 Old 05-13-2014, 01:53 PM   #104
 
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Originally Posted by Lex2007 View Post
The valves and the runners. Both get dirty.

Yes I realize the valve cover doesn't come off to get to the runners. I'm asking about anything peripheral to that which might need to be removed. I don't wanna do things twice if avoidable.
Of course they get dirty but not enough to affect anything. There is no way to clean the exhaust valves without pulling the head or motor.

The only thing I can say that is worth doing is replacing the PCV. If you wanted to replace the VVT, I don't think the intake mani needs to be taken off for that.
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 Old 05-13-2014, 02:04 PM   #105
 
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Originally Posted by himurax13 View Post
Of course they get dirty but not enough to affect anything. There is no way to clean the exhaust valves without pulling the head or motor.

The only thing I can say that is worth doing is replacing the PCV. If you wanted to replace the VVT, I don't think the intake mani needs to be taken off for that.

What's the name of this thread?
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 Old 05-13-2014, 02:39 PM   #106
 
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Originally Posted by Lex2007 View Post
What's the name of this thread?
LOL, well cleaning the valves is not easy as the title would imply and only the intake valves get cleaned. If you want to tackle cleaning the exhaust valves while the motor is still in, please make a writeup for it.
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 Old 05-19-2014, 07:46 PM   #107
 
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Additional tips for cleaning REALLY dirty intake valves

HOW TO: Clean your valves - easy & cheap

see post #37
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 Old 05-27-2014, 01:00 PM   #108
 
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Originally Posted by Lex2007 View Post
Well, did a hot girl call you?...or do you feel guilty for not scrubbing more?
Well I checked my voicemail several times. I think she just dialed the wrong number. Next time I'll have her come over and scrub for me...two birds, ya know?

...and why do I have such a hard time loading the MazdaSpeedForums website? It times out most of the time and I can't navigate anywhere.
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