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 Old 09-26-2012, 09:30 AM   #1
 
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Default How to make a Cx7 transfer case fit your Speed6

Hey guys this is my first write up so bear with me. First off i used a 2007 CX-7 transfer case for this little project and it took about 2.5 hours to swap out.

First you have to get your transfer case out because you will need your drive shaft flange and your intermediate shafts to swap over. Even with a blown up case i do see how the shafts you need to reuse would get damaged as mine was weld together but the shafts were fine.

I am not going to tell you how to remove your t-case but i will say just lower the rear2 bolts on your sub frame, undo the rmm, undo ball joints on passenger side and you can slide the tcase right out.

TLDR: Replace your seals as the cx7 ones are different and will leak, Front flange doesnt have to be changed but longer bolts will be needed. Last but not least swap the 2 shafts and win.

Ok onto the parts you need to switch.....



1) remove these bolts and slide the shaft out



2) using the back of the screw driver that is a soft plastic stick in her and gently tap your other shaft out. once there is enough grab. You can just pull it out. Do this on both cases and then re-install.



You will see the case torn apart in step 2. We just wanted to see the damage caused in my old case. On the new case we just unbolted the one shaft in step 1 and tapped the other shaft out in step 2.

SEALS EXPLAINED BELOW

UPDATE thanks Aviator; REPLACE YOUR SEALS

Note you must replace the seals on the passenger side of the case as the MS6 shaft is smaller than the CX-7. $38 bucks for the seals. (Edit, more like $8 as dont need the more expensive outer seal (see below)).

LN01-27-238 (Edit, this is the only seal that must be replaced to account for the smaller OD of the shaft. CX7 has two seals in transfer case but the MS6 only has one (on drivers side that mounts to trans). This inner seal LN01-27-238 is all that must be replaced. The ID of this seal is smaller for the smaller OD of the shaft. Take 2 CX7 seals out and replace with this one. Must measure depth as if you press it all he way down to the step you will install too far. I measured mine at adepth = 13.4mm so that is what I aimed to install the new on at. I had a hard time installing as I had nothing that mesured 67mm OD except for a can of olives and chefboyaredee, which did not work very well as I could not keep it square. Ended up using my press to "inch it down" around the edge of the seal. Best way to do it would be the right way, but trying to just happer it down would likely lead to disaster. The way I did it worked but tooK a long time....blablabla...ANYWAYS, looking at the shaft for the MS6 the seal does not have to be placed exactly compared to the CX-7.)

A610-27-397 (EDIT, this is not needed. This goes in trans. )

Inner passenger side is (NO.2) 27-238, which is LN01-27-238 and outer passenger side is 27-622A, which is A610-27-397


Originally Posted by the public enemy View Post
You will also need longer bolts as described above to accommodate for the thicker CX7 flange. Otherwise this is correct.


@bcmurphy87; I collected pictures of the seal placement in case you felt it necessary to update. This clarifies visually the two seals for the cx7 versus one in the 6.

Ms6 (1) seal with crunchy bits of goodness.


Cx7 seals (2) must be removed and replaced with no2 27-238 as referenced throughout thread.


This was something I easily inferred from reading but for others they may want to see a picture of what they're pulling and installing.


Big Thanks to these guys for all the info: @aviator79; @phate; @qtrmile beast;
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
just bang out the tight spots.

Last edited by bcmurphy87; 05-14-2015 at 12:45 PM.
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 Old 09-26-2012, 09:34 AM   #2
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Moved to How-To. Thanks!
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 Old 09-26-2012, 09:46 AM   #3
 
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your welcome anyone with questions get at me. I did a little recon so i might can answer your Q's
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
just bang out the tight spots.
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 Old 09-26-2012, 09:46 AM   #4
 
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pm me your number so we can talk
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 Old 09-26-2012, 09:51 AM   #5
 
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can you resize the huge pictures ?? great how to !!!
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 Old 09-26-2012, 09:52 AM   #6
 
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More pics of the inside of the case more detail.... i wish you had a Cx7 case there so we can show the differences..
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 Old 09-26-2012, 09:57 AM   #7
 
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The difference was the input shafts on the cx-7 case were about 3cm wider than the 8 shafts so they would not slide in. Im not a picture guru but ill try ti link thumbnails instead lol
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
just bang out the tight spots.
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 Old 09-26-2012, 10:03 AM   #8
 
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I could not find any differences in the casing itself. We did a lot of measuring. The only thing i found different was the width of the shafts and the drive shaft flange. I took mine to the track the past weekend and pulled some 1.8s on the cx 7 case it holds up. No diff whine or lights
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
just bang out the tight spots.
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 Old 09-26-2012, 10:17 AM   #9
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So, swap driveshaft flanges, and swap input shafts.....

Not too shabby at all. Thanks Chris!
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 Old 09-26-2012, 10:18 AM   #10
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Lol funny to find Charles here.

It's a bummer you didn't provide more detailed pictures on removing the entire thing. This question comes up enough I was hoping to see it in this thread.

You got the driveshaft flange and input shaft covered though... Thanks
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 Old 09-26-2012, 10:40 AM   #11
 
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Pics attached for permanent use & viewing in a larger size

This'll be damn handy to have around! Thanks for the post/how-to bc!!
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File Type: jpg stepone.jpg (1,017.8 KB, 417 views)
File Type: jpg step2.jpg (991.4 KB, 355 views)
File Type: jpg step3.jpg (976.5 KB, 355 views)
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 Old 09-26-2012, 11:01 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
So, swap driveshaft flanges, and swap input shafts.....

Not too shabby at all. Thanks Chris!
Problem is you CAN'T on the CX7 case... this is why i wanted pics of the two. The Cx7 that i had at the shop i took apart and i noticed that the gear was riveted inside the case and there was no visual bolt like the speed6 to take the drive shaft pulley off with. But the speed6 does have it. So you say you have the CX7 case in your car how did you do that? i must have missed something when i had it apart..

In step 1 you see the nut that i am talking about well the CX7 doesnt have that so how does this come off..

Heres a how to for changing the seals in the case..
http://www.mcx7.com/attachment.php?a...4&d=1305101129
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 Old 09-26-2012, 11:18 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by qtrmile beast View Post
Problem is you CAN'T on the CX7 case... this is why i wanted pics of the two. The Cx7 that i had at the shop i took apart and i noticed that the gear was riveted inside the case and there was no visual bolt like the speed6 to take the drive shaft pulley off with. But the speed6 does have it. So you say you have the CX7 case in your car how did you do that? i must have missed something when i had it apart..

In step 1 you see the nut that i am talking about well the CX7 doesnt have that so how does this come off..

Heres a how to for changing the seals in the case..
http://www.mcx7.com/attachment.php?a...4&d=1305101129
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 Old 09-26-2012, 11:40 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by qtrmile beast View Post
In step 1 you see the nut that i am talking about well the CX7 doesnt have that so how does this come off..
Chris said you have to be sure to buy a cx7 case that HAS the nut. Maybe you had one of the ones that didn't.
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 Old 09-26-2012, 11:51 AM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
Chris said you have to be sure to buy a cx7 case that HAS the nut. Maybe you had one of the ones that didn't.

Yea i JUST talked to him and i didnt know that there were two different ones for the Cx7. when i pulled the one off we had at the shop and it was riveted so i figured that all CX7 transfer cases were like that... CASE SOLVED!!!

Also i will make a HOW-TO on puling and installing the transfercase when i do mine..
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 Old 09-26-2012, 11:59 AM   #16
 
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The picture in step 1 and 2 is the new CX 7 case i just picked up in the back of my Honda. I would suggest getting pictures from where ever you buy from to comfirm.

There are SEVERAL cases on car-part.com under 350 dollars. No sense in paying big money for a speed 6 case!!
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
just bang out the tight spots.
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 Old 09-26-2012, 02:27 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by bcmurphy87 View Post
The picture in step 1 and 2 is the new CX 7 case i just picked up in the back of my Honda. I would suggest getting pictures from where ever you buy from to comfirm.

There are SEVERAL cases on car-part.com under 350 dollars. No sense in paying big money for a speed 6 case!!
Thank you so much for this!!! It seems like everyone transfer cases have been going this past week... so how do we make sure to buy the right one off the site you posted?
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 Old 09-26-2012, 04:14 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by Speed_j23 View Post
Thank you so much for this!!! It seems like everyone transfer cases have been going this past week... so how do we make sure to buy the right one off the site you posted?

just when you call have them send you pics of the case that they are trying to sell you so you can see if the case has that nut for the pulley for the driveshaft pulley so you can exchange it with your pulley on your current case. If you don't see it then that is not the case you want unless you have a CX7..
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 Old 10-01-2012, 09:46 AM   #19
 
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Any updates, how's it doing with some miles on it now? @bcmurphy87

So did you get a chance to replace yours yet? @qtrmile beast
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 Old 10-01-2012, 09:54 AM   #20
 
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I have over 500 miles on it and 2 days on the track with it and no noise or grinding.
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
just bang out the tight spots.
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 Old 10-01-2012, 12:33 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by Speed_j23 View Post
Any updates, how's it doing with some miles on it now? @bcmurphy87

So did you get a chance to replace yours yet? @qtrmile beast

I hope to have mine to me this weekend.....
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 Old 10-14-2012, 02:14 PM   #22
 
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Just found a local guy selling 07 Cx7 TC. He used to part out cars before. Went to check it out today. It does have a nut. He said it has been sitting for about 3 years in his garage. Didn't sound like a lie. It was still dusty and oily, but pretty clean though. - $375 (30k miles). Should I grab it?

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 Old 10-14-2012, 03:54 PM   #23
 
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did it spin smoothly and consistent? no funky grinding feel/sound and an even amount of force throughout the rotation? does it still have fluid in it? not covered in sawdust or anything that might have mucked up the water path?

if all that checks out, then it's just a matter of price...
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 Old 10-14-2012, 04:46 PM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 View Post
did it spin smoothly and consistent? no funky grinding feel/sound and an even amount of force throughout the rotation? does it still have fluid in it? not covered in sawdust or anything that might have mucked up the water path?

if all that checks out, then it's just a matter of price...
Just thought about everything you said. It did spin smoothly, and had no weird sounds. Full of fluid, and no sawdust. So, I think I'll take it. Thanks for all those tips. Just to make sure. I have to use GL-5 (SAE 80W-90) correct?
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 Old 10-14-2012, 07:52 PM   #25
 
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wait... so, is this just for replacing it, incase you have problems? or is the cx-7 transfer case stronger than what the speed6's?
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 Old 10-14-2012, 08:10 PM   #26
 
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Cx7 TC is cheaper. Same shit for lower price.
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 Old 10-15-2012, 07:26 AM   #27
 
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Sweet- Hope it treat's ya well!

And yes on the GL5 -
MS6 Fluid Notes & DIY Pictures
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 Old 10-15-2012, 12:51 PM   #28
 
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Car-parts.com has cases for 175!!!!!! lots of them



Search Results

This should be at my house this weekend got it for 200... 2009 with only 22,000 on it!!!!

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 Old 10-18-2012, 05:39 AM   #29
 
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So is the cx-7 tc guaranteed not to leak? Or will it eventually "weep" like the ms6 one?
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 Old 10-18-2012, 06:47 AM   #30
 
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Leaks/weeps are a symptom from the quality of the install work done and how it was sealed, not of the TC itself.

So, in short, no, a CX7 TC is not guaranteed to not leak. Then again, there's nothing that says the OEM MS6 TC is certainly going to. In fact, most don't.

Lot's of the MS6's were installed improperly, especially the early prod numbers. But if correctly sealed it's as leak free as anything
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 Old 10-18-2012, 10:38 AM   #31
 
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Ok i hope to have my case no later than saturday(according to the yard) so I will take detailed pics on the differences in the two cases and also a detailed HOW TO pull the case out of the car and install it.....LOTS OF PICS so stay tuned... So not to take away from this tread i will create a new thread..
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 Old 10-22-2012, 06:49 AM   #32
 
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Differences between the cx7 and the speed 6 transfercase...















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 Old 10-25-2012, 10:39 PM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by qtrmile beast View Post
Problem is you CAN'T on the CX7 case... this is why i wanted pics of the two. The Cx7 that i had at the shop i took apart and i noticed that the gear was riveted inside the case and there was no visual bolt like the speed6 to take the drive shaft pulley off with. But the speed6 does have it. So you say you have the CX7 case in your car how did you do that? i must have missed something when i had it apart..

In step 1 you see the nut that i am talking about well the CX7 doesnt have that so how does this come off..

Heres a how to for changing the seals in the case..
http://www.mcx7.com/attachment.php?a...4&d=1305101129
So to remove seal on front end of case i have to destroy it right? To remove shaft.

Ill see if i can press shaft out. Transfer case is split.

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 Old 10-25-2012, 10:58 PM   #34
 
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Used a 1 1/16 socket. Didnt need press...but used it anyways as i just got it. Seal still intact.

But now how to remove the gear so the case is empty...seems to me that it cannot be done without destroying the bearing.
Cannot attach pics on this tablet for som reason, but looking at this im not sure how it can be removed


Have to look at manual i guess...

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 Old 10-26-2012, 09:45 AM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
Used a 1 1/16 socket. Didnt need press...but used it anyways as i just got it. Seal still intact.

But now how to remove the gear so the case is empty...seems to me that it cannot be done without destroying the bearing.
Cannot attach pics on this tablet for som reason, but looking at this im not sure how it can be removed


Have to look at manual i guess...

I beleive you can remove it like you would remove the seal from your tranny.. You can use a flat head screw driver and pry the seal out. This might damage the seal but you should replace it anyway. To replace it you just use a flat piece of wood and hammer and tap it back in.. I will be taking the rest of the transfercase apart pics will follow...
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 Old 10-26-2012, 07:42 PM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by qtrmile beast View Post
I beleive you can remove it like you would remove the seal from your tranny.. You can use a flat head screw driver and pry the seal out. This might damage the seal but you should replace it anyway. To replace it you just use a flat piece of wood and hammer and tap it back in.. I will be taking the rest of the transfercase apart pics will follow...
Nope. Seals are not what holds it in.
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 Old 10-26-2012, 07:54 PM   #37
 
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Looks like chef needs to be crest from right hand side further into right hand into right hand bearing. But prob probably destroy both bearings. There is room in the housing for the big gear to do this. I have to check the price of the bearings but I believe there 50 bucks or less but if I destroyed them I probably will just by cx7 housing and be done with it. Or I guess I could just get the hole welded without removing the shaft.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...e-case-127946/
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 Old 10-26-2012, 08:41 PM   #38
 
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Nope. There is a lip on right hand of the shaft so it cannot be pressed out. But figured the r the right hand spacer has recesses so you turn it to line up with the notches in housing and then remove it.


That was my theory except notches in spaser are 180 deg s apart and notches in housing are 45 degree apart....

Last edited by aviator79; 10-26-2012 at 09:01 PM.
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 Old 10-26-2012, 10:29 PM   #39
 
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Finally figured it out. The gear I needed to remove is 27-393 shown in attachedment and link. Remove seals (RH inner
27238 SEAL, OIL
ILLUST. NO.3
LN0127398

RH outer
27583A SPACER
ILLUST. NO.2
LN0127583)

Then u can remove center spacer (spacer 27-355 #2) then remove outer spacer (spacers 27-583A). That is what the slots are for in 27-583A So that you can pry up on the center spacer "shim" 27-355#2.

Btw I think this could have been done without removing seals now that I know how to do it.

Bearing outer race for LH bearing (27-350) will remain in tapered end of case. As you can see in the link preload on the bearings are adjusted by different thickness of the shim (27-355#2).

http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/sh...category=20236
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File Type: jpg 2G75611.jpg (154.1 KB, 1291 views)

Last edited by aviator79; 10-30-2012 at 09:27 AM.
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 Old 11-05-2012, 02:52 PM   #40
 
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What is the T-case CASE made of?
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