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 Old 05-22-2014, 12:48 PM   #81
 
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Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
As I said somwhere above you have to replace seals because the shafts are different sizes so if you dont it will leak.
Yeah. I definitely missed that part of your comment and paid for it by inhaling the burning oil fumes for a while.

That part in your comment should be highlighted I think.

Originally Posted by xliquidx View Post
Its just the one seal right?
I only replaced one seal.

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 Old 06-09-2014, 09:05 AM   #82
 
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updated picture links
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
just bang out the tight spots.
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 Old 07-29-2014, 06:06 AM   #83
 
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Just one more question guys, is it necessary to mark the prop shaft alignment? Not sure what would happen with a new TC
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 Old 09-24-2014, 02:52 PM   #84
 
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Unfortunately my TC just died on me so I want to do the CX7 swap too. I was quoted AU$4500 from reputable mechanic to rebuild my TC so that is out of the question. Similar prices have been quoted from other Australian owners.

My only question (at this stage ) is will this swap over be compatible for an Australian RHD model? Is there anything you think might get in the way regarding steering components etc.

Thanks.
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 Old 09-24-2014, 03:54 PM   #85
 
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Originally Posted by M6MPS View Post
Unfortunately my TC just died on me.

There are plenty of 6's in Aussie wrecking yards too. Can you get the CX7 TC significantly cheaper than a 6?

Let me know how much you can get one for. I have a spare CX7 one in Brisbane that I was going to hang on to.

Also I can't imagine RHD will cause any comparability issues. You might have to remove more components to get it out.
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 Old 09-24-2014, 04:03 PM   #86
 
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Originally Posted by Ozynigma View Post
There are plenty of 6's in Aussie wrecking yards too. Can you get the CX7 TC significantly cheaper than a 6?

Let me know how much you can get one for. I have a spare CX7 one in Brisbane that I was going to hang on to.

Also I can't imagine RHD will cause any comparability issues. You might have to remove more components to get it out.

Thanks for the reply. I'm in Melbourne. I'm just starting my TC search now. Was told that wreckers were selling 6 TC's (if you can find one) for over $1500 which is just crazy. The CX7 is supposed to be way less. Not as cheap as the US of course but what can you do. Will start calling around in the next day or two.
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 Old 09-25-2014, 08:53 AM   #87
 
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In the US, used MPS TCs are about 75% more expensive than used CX7 TCs.
You don't need to swap out the output flange, BTW. There is enough play to hook up the driveshaft by using longer fasteners.
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 Old 09-25-2014, 03:51 PM   #88
 
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Originally Posted by dynamho View Post
In the US, used MPS TCs are about 75% more expensive than used CX7 TCs.
You don't need to swap out the output flange, BTW. There is enough play to hook up the driveshaft by using longer fasteners.
Thanks. Any other tips/advice you can think of? I think I will also change the clutch while I'm at it. Is there anything else anybody recommends I should look at doing or be checking for at the same time?
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 Old 09-25-2014, 05:13 PM   #89
 
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Put that unicorn jizz in the new tcase

Also rmm if u don't have one already
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 Old 09-30-2014, 06:47 PM   #90
 
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Depends how much its leaking and if the smell is annoying enough. If there's no grinding or other noises from the TC just open and reseal it
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 Old 10-01-2014, 07:05 PM   #91
 
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Does anybody know the weight of the transfer case? I'm trying to get a shipping estimate. Thanks
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 Old 10-01-2014, 10:08 PM   #92
 
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Originally Posted by M6MPS View Post
Does anybody know the weight of the transfer case? I'm trying to get a shipping estimate. Thanks
Just under 25kg drained.

It needs to be drained as mine leaked most of its fluid out when rolled on its side.
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 Old 11-09-2014, 07:31 PM   #93
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@aviator79, can you confirm the parts in the diagram that need swapped between the CX7 and MS6 transfer cases is part assembly 27-700 and part 27-392 in this diagram:



If it's just that + seals, I think we're in business!






For anyone interested, this is what it sounds like to nuke your tcase launching:


Haven't pulled it, yet, but this is my souvenir, so far:

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 Old 11-17-2014, 12:46 PM   #94
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
@aviator79, can you confirm the parts in the diagram that need swapped between the CX7 and MS6 transfer cases is part assembly 27-700 and part 27-392 in this diagram:



If it's just that + seals, I think we're in business!
Yes, that should be all you need. Your shafts still may be fine as well. Are you able to check them for runout? (inspection table, v-blocks, dial indicator...)
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 Old 12-14-2014, 03:20 PM   #95
 
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Originally Posted by dynamho View Post
In the US, used MPS TCs are about 75% more expensive than used CX7 TCs.
You don't need to swap out the output flange, BTW. There is enough play to hook up the driveshaft by using longer fasteners.
I also find myself falling victim to a weeping PTO.

After reading through this entire thread, one thing remained unclear for me.

Some people are finding that one can simply use longer bolts on the existing CX7 flange. If this is the case, does one have to get the case with the nut or will either one suffice?

Unless I am missing something the only reason one would need the nut would be to remove the flange?
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 Old 12-15-2014, 11:31 AM   #96
 
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Originally Posted by Fordguy2_MS6 View Post
I also find myself falling victim to a weeping PTO.

After reading through this entire thread, one thing remained unclear for me.

Some people are finding that one can simply use longer bolts on the existing CX7 flange. If this is the case, does one have to get the case with the nut or will either one suffice?

Unless I am missing something the only reason one would need the nut would be to remove the flange?
How to make a Cx7 transfer case fit your Speed6
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 Old 12-15-2014, 11:51 AM   #97
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Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
That is what this thread is about, so I will be swapping the shafts, but does the rear drive flange really need to be swapped? Holes of ms6 line up with threaded holes on cx7. Cx7 flange is more robust. Just have to get new bolts. Drive shaft should have no issue if flange sticks out a half inch further back I would think...
Originally Posted by Fordguy2_MS6 View Post
I also find myself falling victim to a weeping PTO.

After reading through this entire thread, one thing remained unclear for me.

Some people are finding that one can simply use longer bolts on the existing CX7 flange. If this is the case, does one have to get the case with the nut or will either one suffice?

Unless I am missing something the only reason one would need the nut would be to remove the flange?

Here's my take on the flange situation - no, you don't need to swap them and either one will work. There are a couple caveats with this, though:

Because the CX7 flange holes are threaded, you have to put the bolt in from the rear, pointing forward. That requires a shorter bolt. Using a shorter bolt isn't totally ideal because you end up putting the bolt threads in shear. [There will be threads at the point where the two flanges mate together.] That is inherently weaker than having the non-threaded portion of the bolt in single shear. If you never ever plan to launch the car or drive it hard, you might get away with it.

The more ideal situation is that you drill out the threads from the CX7 flange to the same diameter as the original MS6 flange. The stock bolts in this situation won't work because they will be too short. You will need to get longer bolts with an unthreaded section ~10-20mm from the bolt head, down. That allows you to put the bolts in pointing either way and having the unthreaded section in shear where the flanges meet.



PS - I kinda get the feeling that some of the CX7 flanges don't have threaded holes. Can anyone confirm this is the case? If that's the case, you just need new bolts like I've described above.
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 Old 12-15-2014, 05:34 PM   #98
 
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So am i to understand that you will be able to use either one of these flanges just get some longer bolts to accommodate the CX7 flange?
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 Old 12-15-2014, 05:38 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by qtrmile beast View Post
So am i to understand that you will be able to use either one of these flanges just get some longer bolts to accommodate the CX7 flange?
Yep.
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 Old 12-17-2014, 01:12 PM   #100
 
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I am preparing to do the swap and have located a 2010 CX7 transfer case locally. I hate to be redundant but I just want to be completely clear. The swap essentially consists of switching the shaft assembly 27-700 and shaft 27-392 from the Speed6 case to the CX7 case. And the only seal that is needed is listed on the parts diagram as (NO. 2) 27-238 and appears to be located on the drivers side of the case. I just want to be sure I order the correct seal before I tear it down. Is this correct?
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 Old 12-18-2014, 07:25 AM   #101
 
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Originally Posted by akias View Post
I am preparing to do the swap and have located a 2010 CX7 transfer case locally. I hate to be redundant but I just want to be completely clear. The swap essentially consists of switching the shaft assembly 27-700 and shaft 27-392 from the Speed6 case to the CX7 case. And the only seal that is needed is listed on the parts diagram as (NO. 2) 27-238 and appears to be located on the drivers side of the case. I just want to be sure I order the correct seal before I tear it down. Is this correct?
You will also need longer bolts as described above to accommodate for the thicker CX7 flange. Otherwise this is correct.


@bcmurphy87; I collected pictures of the seal placement in case you felt it necessary to update. This clarifies visually the two seals for the cx7 versus one in the 6.

Ms6 (1) seal with crunchy bits of goodness.


Cx7 seals (2) must be removed and replaced with no2 27-238 as referenced throughout thread.


This was something I easily inferred from reading but for others they may want to see a picture of what they're pulling and installing.
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 Old 12-18-2014, 07:34 AM   #102
 
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Is there enough space to use the CX7 bolts? I thought someone mentioned earlier in the tread that there was not enough space to use them and the threads would have to be removed and different bolts used. If there is enough room and it bolts right up, which would be sweet, I'll just order the seal and the bolts. Thanks for the reply by the way.
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 Old 12-18-2014, 07:53 AM   #103
 
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Originally Posted by akias View Post
Is there enough space to use the CX7 bolts? I thought someone mentioned earlier in the tread that there was not enough space to use them and the threads would have to be removed and different bolts used. If there is enough room and it bolts right up, which would be sweet, I'll just order the seal and the bolts. Thanks for the reply by the way.
I literally did this a month ago. I used cx7 driveshaft flange bolts, ms6 no2 27-238, and swapped the shafts. add fluid and launch control your way out of the garage (lol). (edit) I should add as its outlined above that you should do the extra work to make it a stronger setup but I didn't have a drill handy so I didn't do that step yet. I don't hardly launch the car anymore since our drag strip is crap.

You will have plenty room to use the bolts from the CX7 to hook up your driveshaft to the TC. I mounted my TC completely then put the driveshaft up to it and it required almost no skill to attach the two.

It can be tricky to seat that seal in the TC btw but I used a PVC pipe from home depot it was like 2 or 2 1/4" outer diameter and tapped on the pipe to seat the seal in place. Made it a cake walk.
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 Old 12-18-2014, 08:07 AM   #104
 
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Tits! My TC is making sounds like the rear differential on 47 year old school bus. Any idea on how far in the new seal needs to be seated? I think one of the other posters in the thread said that it was approx 13.5 mm or so. I guess I will wait til I have the seal and then make a trip to the depot to measure up a PVC special tool.
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 Old 12-18-2014, 08:11 AM   #105
 
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Originally Posted by akias View Post
Tits! My TC is making sounds like the rear differential on 47 year old school bus. Any idea on how far in the new seal needs to be seated? I think one of the other posters in the thread said that it was approx 13.5 mm or so. I guess I will wait til I have the seal and then make a trip to the depot to measure up a PVC special tool.
My MS6 TC had its seal seated in a groove and flush on the outer side so I mimicked that on the CX7 case (which also has the same groove) with 27-238.
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 Old 12-18-2014, 08:16 AM   #106
 
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Thanks for the info and pics!
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 Old 03-31-2015, 06:16 PM   #107
 
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Since this appears to be the How-to thread for MS6 -> CX-7 PTO's I wanted to know if anyone has upgraded the bearing caps before installing the CX-7 PTO. I found these on the forum and was thinking while I had the CX-7 PTO in my garage I would upgrade:

SP63 Upgraded Bearing Caps

I see there is a gasket between the case halves and I would replace that but was just looking for someone who has done this. Is it simply remove the bolts that hold it together, remove the OEM bearing caps and install the new caps?

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 12:56 PM   #108
 
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+1 Another successful MS6 owner running with a CX-7 PTO. I did also upgrade the bearing caps and RMM while it was all apart! Successful day on the lift! Thanks for this very informative thread!
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 Old 05-11-2015, 07:03 PM   #109
 
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So I have it all apart, bought the LN01-27-238 seal. So I have the case out and took out the longer shaft with the aluminum parts attached to it like in the instructions. The seal is completely different, I don't see where else it would go, says the passenger side and this is the passenger side. I do have a newer case out of a 08 or 09 but It has the nut on the flange so I figured it would be good. I don't see why I would replace this seal with the 27-238 one, it doesn't fit snug on the shaft and neither does the one that's in there either.

Did I miss something here. Am I supposed to also swap out the larger shaft that the longer one goes into? Is that different as well?
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 Old 05-12-2015, 08:46 AM   #110
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Yes, the large shaft has to get swapped, also. Comparison:



MS6 on the left, CX7 on the right. I think that seal is to account for the difference in shaft OD.
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 Old 05-12-2015, 05:50 PM   #111
 
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@phate;
Do I have to take the case apart to get the larger shaft out?
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 Old 05-12-2015, 05:53 PM   #112
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Originally Posted by RWDAddict View Post
phate
Do I have to take the case apart to get the larger shaft out?
Just slides out from what I remember. Might take a little tap with a soft mallet or similar to get it started because of the circlip.
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 Old 05-14-2015, 05:14 PM   #113
 
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@RWDAddict;

Originally Posted by phate View Post
Just slides out from what I remember. Might take a little tap with a soft mallet or similar to get it started because of the circlip.
+1 with what @phate; said. The shafts definitely slide out and need assistance initially. Does not require disassembly to do the swap.

The shafts were definitely different sizes and is why the (2) CX7 seals must be replaced to the single seal for the MS6.
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 Old 06-17-2015, 11:11 AM   #114
 
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i bought the cx7 bolts hoping to use the thicker flange.
the drive shaft on cx7s must have a thicker face to, the bolts would bottom out with the ms6 drive shaft face and cx7 input flange.
$5 each bolt wasted

no big deal just used the ms6 input flange.
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 Old 08-03-2015, 09:33 AM   #115
 
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Sorry to bring an old thread back but I wanna say thanks to all of you for your input because I have not had my car for a while since I blew my case and you guys just got me one for 210 shipped with an extra couple bucks spent on parts. I will post to let you know how it works for me too I guess just to help anyone out in the future!

Thanks so much !!!!
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 Old 09-26-2015, 10:10 AM   #116
 
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Originally Posted by bcmurphy87 View Post
your welcome anyone with questions get at me. I did a little recon so i might can answer your Q's
I just joined the group, first time on a forum. Had a couple of questions about the tc swap can you see the bolt on thems6 versus the rivited one on the cx7. Got an 06 ms6 for cheap but it is in dire need of a tc any discrimination or pictures would be a great help thank you.
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 Old 09-26-2015, 10:37 AM   #117
 
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Originally Posted by qtrmile beast View Post
I can get one cheaper than the 299 between 60-80,000 mile on it... if you are interested...
I would very much be interested in a tc can't figure out about the rivited flange .my name is tony my phone number is 573 647 0278 please let me know if you can help needed one yesterday
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 Old 09-26-2015, 11:36 AM   #118
 
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Location?

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 Old 12-16-2015, 06:28 PM   #119
 
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SORRY FOR THE WAIT!!!
So in regards to the transfer case I found for 210 shipped it was garbage, but thats bound to happensince it was from a junk yard, BUT good news is I found another one it ran me close to 500 but I have almost 10k on it and not a problem car runs and drives perfect.

One more successful story added to the CX-7 TF swap!

Thanks again to all who helped and any input in on this~!
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 Old 01-05-2016, 06:25 PM   #120
 
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Hmmm anyone that's swapped in a fresh case that has diff mounts etc notice any whine when cruising still? I put a new CX7 case in a while back, although was cheap from a scrap yard so god knows if its OK... Before my old one went out had awful loud bearing noise and this one sounds like it's starting to get it as well even though it had noise as soon as I put it in... I can't tell if its noise from all my mounts or the case is on it's way out again.. Its silent around 60-70mph, can hear it at the usual 50mph..
BTW the riveted flange doesn't matter as you can leave the thicker flange and just get longer bolts as I've done.. Only issue you may have is the nuts are very close to touching my DP.
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