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 Old 09-18-2016, 08:22 AM   #1
 
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Default HOW-TO: MS6 A/C Compressor Clutch & Bearing Replacement

Updated 6/7/18 - Added info for an aftermarket shim kit one of our enterprising members found at autozone

Ok folks no pics as this is an easy process, but I will break it into a few different sections; symptoms, bearing replacement, full clutch replacement.

Bearing: $20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cross p/n: Santech MT2021 - Same as MS3 size.

Clutch: $80 - Comes with clutch, magneto, pulley w/ bearing installed, and new washers(important)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cross p/n: CoolTech 476CKturbo

Amazon was the best price I could find. The MS6 is the same as the MS3 for the clutch, both are 124mm 6 ribs. Just make sure yours comes with new shims/washers.

Shim Kit: MT0986 “ Santech A/C Comp Clutch Installation Kit“ Available from Autozone for $3 vs. dealer $20. Still requires trial and erro to find the right spacing combo.

Symptoms:
So there are really only 2 reasons to do this repair. Either your car is making a nasty rattle/squeal/metallic clanking(bearing) and/or you've noticed your a/c randomly blows warm(Clutch). If the latter you can verify its the clutch by having someone look at the clutch(triangle with 3 bumps on outside of compressor pulley) and see if it starts spinning when you turn the a/c button on. If it stays still or rotates sporadically/slow then the clutch is the culprit. I'm not getting into what on the clutch fails because it doesn't matter it comes as a complete kit.

Note:
If you are a higher mileage vehicle I would recommend spending the extra $60 and just replace the whole clutch assembly. It saves you having to press out/in the bearing and only adds about 30 minutes to the job. Clutches operate off of friction, so the more miles the more likely it is your clutch surface is worn out.

Bearing Only Replacement:
Once again I'd only do this on low mileage or vehicles that have no issues with warm air and only have a noisey pulley.

Tools:
*Nut driver/screw driver to remove fender liner splash shield. Mine were 10mm.
*Long-handled box wrench or serpentine tensioner tool in whatever size yours is. Mine was aftermarket and used a 13mm. If you are fairly strong you can use a regular length box, but I'm a fan of mechanical leverage to save my strength for hold beer cans.
*12mm socket and flexi 1/4" ratchet. This is for the compressor bolts. You can do it with a box wrench, but its a PITA. Harbor freight sells a flexi ratchet set for $12.
*10mm deep socket for the clutch bolt.
*Impact for said socket OR a clutch tool to hold the clutch inplace while you break the bolt loose with a ratchet. Remember the clutch spins freely. Any man should own at the very least a quality electric impact gun, so maybe now is the time to step up your tool box.
*Snap ring pliers. Pulley snap ring is a spread type so any set should be fine, I use 45 degree ones which made it a breeze.
*Press is the preferred way, but I've done it with a ball joint removal kit in a pinch. Again, I'd recommend just doing the whole clutch if you don't have easy access to a press.

Process:
The MS3 is 100 times quicker because they have a removable splash shield where we have a metal body reinforcement. This allows them to remove the clutch and pulley without having to unbolt the compressor, making the replacement a 20min ordeal. Not the case for MS6ers. I did this on a lift which makes it a lot easier and saved me from having to remove the wheel(I'm lazy), but you can do this on stands.

1. Put the vehicle as high on stands as possible, or a lift if you're a baller.
2. If you are on stands remove the tire as you'll need the extra space to wiggle around on the ground....insert joke here.
3. Remove the fasteners for the underside part of the fender liner and maybe the first 1 or 2 fasteners in the actual fender. You'll be bending the shield back behind the brake caliper so remove as many as makes you comfortable.
4. Use preferred tool from list to remove belt from compressor pulley. You will be pulling down, which rotates the pulley up creating slack.
5. Compressor Bolt time. I strongly suggest a flexi 1/4" ratchet, but feel free to suffer with a box wrench. Passenger-side top you get from above, going under the p/s reservoir. The other 3 bolts you will get from below. All 12mm and come out fairly easy once broken loose. I left the top passenger side on the compressor and removed the other 3 completely. Pull the compressor towards the front of the car, it has a lip on the passenger side bolt holes to assist in holding it in place while bolting. You only need to move it a tad to angle the clutch down and forward about a half inch.
6. 10mm and impact time. Or clutch tool if you are lame. Single bolt in the center of the clutch that is pretty short. Once removed you will pull the triangle piece off of the pulley. It may require a screwdriver to wiggle it off depending on age/rust. Its a long splined shaft. Be VERY careful when removing this. DO NOT lose the 2 shims/washers that will either be in the clutch or still in the pulley side. They are the size of a contact lense and bronze in color. Mine were left in the pulley. Used a magnet to get and keep them from being lost.
7. The pulley is now only held on by a snap ring. Spread it apart and pull it out of the groove. The pulley should just pull off, but if the bearing is super trashed you may need to encourage it with either a screw driver wiggle or worst case a pulley remover. Mine was moderately trashed with 150K and only required a screwdriver to wiggle it off. Patience is key.

8. Press old bearing out and new bearing in.
9. Reassemble remembering to insert the 2 shim back into the splined part of the clutch. They space the clutch out from the friction surface of the pulley. Order is bolt, clutch, shims(2), pulley.

Clutch Replacement:

Tools:
*Above metioned tools and...
*Quality Phillips head screw driver for Magneto screws
*Stubby Phillips for cap retainer/bracket on top of compressor

Process:
Same steps as above up to and including #7 . And then these...

8. Unplug connector on top of compressor. If its still mounted to the bracket push it forward to unseat it from the slide on bracket holder. Not required but makes it easier to get the stubby in there to unscrew the bracket. THe screw is ontop, driver side block side corner. Bracket itself is a L shaped contraption that holds the cap in the compressor(circular metal button).
9. You may need a tiny flathead to get the cap out of the compressor, mine was glued in but not to difficult to remove. Just take yoru time and pry on the edges, you aren't reusing so don't worry about damaging wires.
10. Go back to the wheel well and remove the 3 Phillips screws holding the magneto on. These are torqued so make sure you are square and using a quality screwdriver, otherwise you will most likely strip them and be screwed... get it screwed har har har...
11. Install the new parts in the reverse order.
12. MAKE SURE YOU USE THE NEW SHIMS THAT SHOULD HAVE COME WITH THE KIT. If you do not you will be taking it back apart to either sand down the friction surfaces or go find new shims to correctly space the clutch from the pulley surface. When assembled the pulley should spin freely of the clutch. If it rubs or is hard to turn something is wrong and you most likely did not put 2 NEW shims back in. As a reminder the shims go INSIDE the splined shaft to space the clutch OUT from the pulley the correct distance.

Last edited by GroceryGtr; 06-07-2018 at 05:09 AM.
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 Old 10-15-2016, 05:50 PM   #2
 
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Brother, great write up, and I bought the exact same part off ebay from North american (Amazon haz a track record of effin up multi item orders)

Wish I'd looked harder at the pics.

Dude,

there is no friction material on this unit


Its a clutch, without clutch material

a bone on bone knee joint, as it were



I am AC savvy, but NOT expert, any one wanna tell me this is ok to install ??


Also, that skag bearing you mentioned..... Its staked in,


So, Glad I scored that santech bearing separately, I am leaning to that being all thats replaced...


2 beer post
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 Old 10-15-2016, 06:34 PM   #3
 
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like this

Brand New Mazda 3 5 A C AC Compressor Clutch Kit Front Plate Bearing and Coil | eBay
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 Old 10-17-2016, 04:50 PM   #4
 
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Thats perfectly fine. There is no friction material technically. The metal is the friction material. Not understanding your stakes in question though.
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 Old 10-21-2016, 09:29 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by GroceryGtr View Post
Thats perfectly fine. There is no friction material technically. The metal is the friction material. Not understanding your stakes in question though.
Hey,
Chatted with Ben, from bens auto air (hella nice guy, 5 stars on local google)

I was leaning toward having him put this in for me, for a couple reasons.
I'm lazy lately, and its a 6.

been done already on my 3.

I had the belt off to do my valves, and even getting onto that tensioner sucked balls on the 6

anyway, Ben consideres it a bench job, so, a vac, and recharge bla bla he said it'd be close to 3 and was pushing me to go find an entire compressor instead of repairing


So, I am clearing off the carport for a few hours of fun



He also confirmed that quite a few AC clutches are designed without friction material, so from that aspect, the kit is fine.

not oem, but functional

the term Staking, refers to a common practice of retaining a round peg, in a round hole

wherein after the peg is in place, the edges of the hole are tapped with a dull punch, caving the hole in locally to prevent the peg from coming out

LOGO COLT LMT BCG TOP Photo by Alpha-Romeo3 | Photobucket


in the case of the cooltech part, the bearing is staked into the pulley, I believe OEM there is a snapring doing that

I just went back thru your how to tool list, very nice, and I'm off to harbor freight

on the 3 I've always used a 24' BB and a 6 point as I've moved those hard lines in that area

OEM bearing is pressed then, tolerances on the cooltech are proly loose enough they wanted to stake to be certain
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 Old 10-21-2016, 01:37 PM   #6
 
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The snap ring is to hold the pulley/bearing onto the compressor shaft. The bearing is pressed, not staked, into the pulley. Your mechanic is a crook, there is no need to open the system and/or remove the compressor to do this.
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 Old 10-21-2016, 03:59 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by GroceryGtr View Post
The snap ring is to hold the pulley/bearing onto the compressor shaft. The bearing is pressed, not staked, into the pulley. Your mechanic is a crook, there is no need to open the system and/or remove the compressor to do this.
Hey, so, just finished up.

want to clarify a few things

OEM bearing is pressed and staked same as the cooltec

That harbor freight serp tool worked like a champ

Getting to either of the top bolts was busting my balls to the point that I relooked at the side approach.

and created a third option


I got the plastic out of the way and got the clutch off

pretty fuggered looking, but it had been working fine

spent a bit of time tapping the pulley off, bearing got snuggish going over the snapring groove

already missing a couple balls and the inner bearing greaseseal stayed in the hub .

mag coil did not look great, but, it was working fine, and since only one of the 3 screws are reachable in situ, roll the dice.

I avoided having to demount the compressor.

i replaced clutch and bearing.


sooner or later the rest will fail, and the whole compressor gets replaced, depending on how the compressor fails, proly with condensor

Ben is not a crook, I've had 3 cars at his shop, he's touched 2, advised on the 3rd, and charged me for one
$40 bux grand total.
I've picked his brain several times, he knows I prefer to DIY and he is cool with it

from a business point of view, a car with a failed bearing has many other issues lurking, and he does not want to have pissed off customers coming back because half a job was done. You and I are willing to take those risks, a pro does not.

anyway, just wanted to point out the 3rd option of leaving the mag in place, and saving the compressor drop.

Real nice well laid out write up
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 Old 05-30-2018, 02:58 PM   #8
 
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Does anyone have the dimensions for the bolt and the shims that hold the clutch in place? My clutch actually came out as I was going down the road. I guess it’s possible that the bolt just worked it’s way out. But as a result I have no bolt or shims. I’d like to see if putting a new bolt back in will keep me from having to replace the whole thing.
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 Old 05-31-2018, 04:56 AM   #9
 
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The only time the bolt comes out is if the bearing is failing. the good news is the kit comes with a new bolt and shims.
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 Old 05-31-2018, 05:47 AM   #10
 
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Yeah I figured after 130k I should probably just replace the whole thing. It should get here by the weekend. Thanks.
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 Old 05-31-2018, 07:45 AM   #11
 
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yeah get a clutch kit (not a whole compressor)
I did the bearing of mine and even if i had all the old parts, it is a pita to get the correct air gap for the clutch. Especially when the bearing is shot, it scuff all the parts and make it harder...
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 Old 06-10-2018, 04:42 PM   #12
 
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Got my new coil, bearing and clutch installed. My A/C and radiator fans are working again. There was only one real speed bump. The shims that came in the replacement kit (the one linked above) were too big. I had to reuse the old ones. I don’t know if that’s going to cause more problems down the road but I didn’t really have any other options.

My new clutch spins a little when it’s not engaged. Is that gonna be a problem?

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 Old 06-11-2018, 10:55 AM   #13
 
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you may miss few 0.001'' of shims.

I'm not sure if it would just wear out after a while or if that slipage could cause some heat and affect the bearing and clutch.

If it still rub after a week or some use, maybe you can bend/dent one of your shmi or just sand the friction part to avoid the contact...
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 Old 06-11-2018, 01:24 PM   #14
 
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Keep an eye on it and keep the fan speed on high with the temp set around 30% above the coldest setting. This will force it to cycle frequently and hopefully wear it in fairly quickly. You may get lucky and its just barely catching meaning it will wear in after some miles. If its 'stuttering' frequently over a 1 minute period after say 50-75 miles you likely only have 2 options, which both involve pulling it back apart:

1. sand down the friction surface a tad to prevent the secondary engagement.
2. Try another shim combo. On mine I ended up with 1 new and 1 old. I also added a p/n for autozone to buy an aftermarket shim kit which may help you.

Do not run it with the a/c off until the clutch wears in and it no longer glitches. The high fan setting will help keep it cycling and also prevent the system from freezing up from over engagement.
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 Old 10-11-2018, 09:26 AM   #15
 
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Great thread, ty!
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