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 Old 03-03-2014, 01:50 PM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by DamagedGoods View Post
Rotor screws are a PITA on any car that has them equipped, lol. If you can get your hands on an impact driver (Can tire) it'll save you a lot of frustration and time.




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thanks. Yeah I actually tried pounding a larget socket onto the handle of a screw driver which held plenty hard to start stripping the screws. I didnt strip them completely, left enough to actually get a hold of it still.

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 Old 03-04-2014, 10:17 AM   #42
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Impact drivers are the only way to really get them out. I drilled all of mine out.
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 Old 05-12-2014, 05:10 PM   #43
 
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So I figure I will bump this thread instead of starting a new one as it is relevant.

Over the weekend I replaced front and rear rotors and pads. Rotors were centric premium, pads were CS up front and OEM in the back. First of all, thanks @MATT DAMOND; for the write up. This was my first time doing brakes and the how to helped considerably.

So last night the car sat out in the rain all night and the rotors got a bit of surface rust. I got to work this morning and quick checked things out and it appears there is some uneven wear going on already. On the back passenger and possibly even front passenger there was still some visible rust on parts of the rotor that should have worn off on the drive in. So my question is what is causing this and how do I remedy?

I cleaned the shit out of the guide pins front and back. That was one of the most time consuming parts of the install as I took my time and really cleaned and lubed up. My car is right at 80K and to my knowledge this was the first time the brakes have been changed I know, I know. The old ones were worn to shit and rotors nicely grooved. I had to compress the pistons a ton. On the fronts there was zero lube on the caliper pins upon removal. But again, I cleaned and relubed thoroughly. I took the car out after completing and did several 40 or 50-20 firm stops.

I did not remove the actual calipers so I haven't done a fluid flush/change yet but will this weekend. I noticed the initial bite seems softened up a bit compared to before but they do stop well if I put good pressure on them. I was kinda expecting a noticeable improvement considering how worn the old ones were. There are no squealing or other noises so far that I can tell. Everything seems fine except the softer initial feel and the possible uneven wear.

So I know I tend to be long winded, but looking for a little feedback on what might be causing these symptoms and what I might need to do to remedy. Thanks for your help
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 Old 05-12-2014, 05:55 PM   #44
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If you don't have many miles on them, I wouldn't worry. Some pads take a long time to fully bed - EBC's take nearly 1,000 miles in some cases. If they haven't mostly evened up after 500 miles or so, then further inspection is probably warranted.
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 Old 05-12-2014, 06:01 PM   #45
 
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Well thats good to hear. Yea there is only about 35 miles on them so far. I suppose I will keep an eye on them over the next week or two and see how things look.
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 Old 09-23-2018, 06:03 PM   #46
 
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Sorry to open up an old thread. Can I bleed the brakes by myself if so how do I do it or do I need to people?
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 Old 09-24-2018, 08:34 AM   #47
 
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The easiest is to be 2. 1 in the car and 1 at the wheel.
With bleeder closed, 1 pump and then hold some load on the pedal.
Then, the other open the bleeder slowly
When the pedal reach the floor, the person must keep it there until the bleeder is closed back.

Put a small and clear hose on the bleeder to route the oil as it is very corrosive against any car paint...


To do it alone, you need special tools, either something to pressurize the oil tank or a check valve or pump at the bleeder. And you need to know how to work with these tools or you will let air come in the lines....

The hardest part on a old car is always to open the bleeders without breaking them on the caliper. If you have the cap on, it may help. And if you break one, it is at some point better to get a whole replacement caliper as it get hard to remove if you aren't skilled to do so.

With rusted bleeders, If there is no air in the system and you don't need to replace hoses or calipers, i wouldn't mess with it just to flush the oil...
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 Old 01-03-2019, 08:52 PM   #48
 
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Bolt to press rotor off is 8x1.25 i think. Bolts that hold brake line to fram on rear (2 bolts on braket) work. Idk if bolts that hold line to strut on front are same size as mine were rusted as i replaced them and did not want to shear. But was needed to get 3 rotors off as had no hammer so i was glad to find one that worked using Matts info.
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 Old 01-03-2019, 09:03 PM   #49
 
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I blead brakes myself using hose to 1L bottle. Worked fine. Did Audi the other day same way using the cup that comes with mityvac.
Use 6pt socket to loosen bleeders THEN use a wrench and dont force it. Mine have not turned in many years and had no issues. I find that I dont need to turn close each pump so can do myself now. If anything sucks back into bleeder it will be fluid that is in drain hose so no air gets in. I had used speed bleeders 12 years ago when bought car but had one shear off on slave cylinder so removed them. U can get sheered bleeder out without replaing caliper. Idk what last poster is saying. I did have to remove slave cylinder to get sheared bleeder out thou.
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 Old 01-07-2019, 11:33 AM   #50
 
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My point about replacing caliper in case of a broken bleeder is for someone that already need help to do a brake job. I will personally try to save the caliper like you but the newbie with very basic tools may have a very hard time taking out the broken bleeder without breaking the seat. If the person need a mechanics that charge to do it, it may cost more than a rebuild-ed unit...
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 Old 01-07-2019, 08:46 PM   #51
 
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I just replaced with Stoptech/centric Premium High-Carbon Rotors / Posi-Quiet Ceramic Brake Pads.

125.45073
120.45074
105.11860
105.1161

$192.

Basic but good.
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