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 Old 12-30-2011, 10:57 PM   #1
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Default HOW TO: Power Steering Flush

Easy maintenance, great results, let me know if you have questions!

Time needed: 30 minutes

Tools:
10mm wrench and ratchet
Pliers
1q ATM M-V fluid or equivalent + funnel see MS6 Fluid Notes & DIY Pictures for more info
Drain pan

Step 1: Remove plastic under tray and jack up front of car, no ramps

Car will need to turn wheels in the air. Use jack stands & wheel blocks on rear wheels!

Step 2:
Locate Power steering tubes
ps (3).JPG

There is a hose going straight down out of the reservoir, then it goes to a 3" rubber tube (right drain point), then metal tube to the driver side, where it connects to a 4" rubber hose (left drain point), before going to the wheel well area /power steering cooler.

You have two choices to drain from, but the left is much less cleanup, and no risk of pulling hose loose from reservoir. (green arrows)

Step 3: Remove three brackets

ps (4).JPG ps (5).JPG ps (6).JPG
One is in front driver wheel well area, one just right of middle, and one by hose coming straight down from power steering reservoir.

*They are all a gold color and 10mm. Use wrench for right one, socket for other two
*All three are bolts are different, take note which go where!
ps (9).JPG

Step 4: Prepare to drain
ps (2).JPG

Take a pair of pliers and move the two clamps up/left, off the rubber tube completely, to the red arrow.
Now twist and simultaneously pull the rubber/metal bracket apart, slowly, just to where it will almost come apart.

*You want to keep the top of the rubber hose attached, and remove the metal tube from the bottom of the rubber hose

Step 5: Drain Reservoir

ps (8).JPG ps (7).JPG

I made a funnel of aluminum foil (which worked damn well...not a drop outside the drain-pan for once). There is a hole right under the tube, where you should direct the fluid.

Once you pull the metal end apart, fluid will come out of that end mainly. Since we undid the brackets, you can angle it right into the drain pain!
*Do not remove the reservoir cap until after you have angled the tube, since it will flow much faster!

Step 6: Drain tubes and system dry

1) Turn the steering wheel (with ignition to ON, not with the car running) from left to right 100 times, or until empty. You will hear fluid squirting out, and now it will come out of the rubber tube, which is funneled by aluminum foil.

2) Once you are happy that its all emptied out, replace the tube and brackets. Replace plastic under-tray

Step 7: Bleed fluid

1) Pour 1/4 of bottle into reservoir SLOWLY. Now turn the wheel left to right 20 times.
2) Pour in another 1/4 and repeat
3) Pour in1/4 more and repeat.
4) Make sure fluid is constant at min/max level, add fluid if needed

*You will hear bubbles escape, make sure fluid is not full in reservoir, as it will overflow. All air is out once fluid level is constant in-between min/max, and it does not change when you turn wheel anymore

Step 8:

Lower car to ground level and put on the fluid cap. Turn car on, turn wheel 4 times. Turn off and inspect fluid level. Go for a spin and check again...done

*It is better to turn your wheel too many times, to ensure all the air has escaped...don't skimp!

Thanks to IHeartGroceries for his original how to!

Last edited by oh_yeams6; 01-05-2012 at 09:52 AM.
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 Old 12-31-2011, 08:16 AM   #2
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Damnit, great thread, but cannot give MSF bucks yet, go VIP! Thanks for the great thread!
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 Old 12-31-2011, 02:32 PM   #3
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I got dress socks for Kwanza instead...
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 Old 12-31-2011, 02:37 PM   #4
 
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How cool- this is the how-to I need for the fluid notes post.
Darn good timing, and a good write-up
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 Old 01-01-2012, 04:55 PM   #5
 
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just did this earlier today on the 3. not too bad. fluid was still mostly bright red @ 104k.

on the 3 you just un-clamp the lower hose (output of p.s. cooler) on the passenger side behind the fog light.

took the reservoir off and sprayed a little degreaser mixed with cheap new ATF. had a lot of black residue in it. now its all clean inside.

used 1/2 qt to flush reservoir and lines. blew through the reservoir and pushed all the fluid out of the lines up to where i disconnected it.

took almost 1 qt to finish it off. also used Mobil 1 synthetic. was worth $10 since all you need is one.

note after getting all the air out and starting the car the reservoir went a lil below min, filled it back up to half between min and max and drove around the block. now its a smidge over max
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 Old 01-01-2012, 06:39 PM   #6
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That is why I recommend adding fluid in several small increments. You can also remove fluid from the reservoir using a turkey-baster if you have to..
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 Old 01-01-2012, 07:57 PM   #7
 
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Just checked it again and it's right on the full line, pure WIN!
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 Old 01-03-2012, 12:55 PM   #8
 
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I can't thanks enough for this thread. Well done. The stealership was pushing me to do this and was going to charge $350.
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 Old 01-05-2012, 09:41 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by sharky View Post
I can't thanks enough for this thread. Well done. The stealership was pushing me to do this and was going to charge $350.
No problem, here to help; let me know if you guys need any clarification!

and just a FYI... ATF fluid smells like ASS
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 Old 02-16-2012, 01:49 AM   #10
 
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Just a little research I did about going with a synthetic instead of OEM stuff.

It says OEM Mazda ATF or Dexron II equivilant but still being on warranty I wanted to be sure or to have some guarantee just in case as recommended by my dealer's service manager.

From OP:

Hey man, no problem..glad it helped you out! Please post in the original thread, to get it some respect (if you feel it was good and helps).
You can use full synthetic, there are numerous companies supplying it: Mobil 1, Redline, Amsoil, ect.. just check the back to ensure it is compatible. Power steering is more important in terms of changing it in general, the pump is fairly simple in design ... but for 10 bucks vs 5... your call

-------------------------------

And I also e-mailed Mazda USA and Redline and Royal Purple, but only got a reply from the latter, although it's pretty satisfying, so I'm goin with theirs so I can hold someone accountable if for some reason shit hits the fan:

Good morning Vietnam,

For your 2008 Mazdaspeed3 power steering we recommend as your best choice Royal Purple Max EZ (part #01326, 12- oz bottle), an as your next choice Royal Purple Max ATF (part #01320, quart bottle).

Both will be completely functional and compatible with any of the previous Mazda ATF fluid that might be left. The Max EZ having Synerlec will give the most protection of the two, but both will give you a very significant upgrade in performance and protection over the OE fluid, as well as being a much more robust and longer lasting fluid.

Thank you for choosing Royal Purple and have a great day!

Except it comes in gay ass 12 oz bottles so I have to buy at least 3

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 Old 02-16-2012, 09:40 AM   #11
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I would go with the Mobile one full synthetic... one quart for 10bucks at autozone FTW
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 Old 03-24-2012, 09:53 PM   #12
 
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Just did this according to above instructions mostly. Also used this for reference, although the layout is not identical.

-Below is a pic of where I drained for MS3, as show by the un-clamped hose, as you can see it won't leak until you unsheathe the foreskin even after un-clamping.

-Depending on how asian you are, you might be able to get away with just jacking up the opposite side to drain.

-Used quite a bit of tinfoil to cover everything, but there wasn't a big splash, just isolate the hose and you'll be fine.

-For some reason I also decided to pour in a bottle of Valvoline Dexron Synthetic to flush, before I filled with 2.1 bottles of the above mentioned Royal Purple.

-Drained fluid stank so bad it made me gag like when I saw Hedwig for the first time, but also like that transgressive musical, I got used to it.

-Feels good man, can't notice much, but improvement is apparent, smoother, perhaps quieter lol. When I stick my dick in the reservoir it doesen't smell bad anymore when I perform autofellatio.
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 Old 08-29-2012, 07:08 AM   #13
 
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You, sir, are a life saver!!! I've seen a couple other threads on this, but they had different step-by-steps and less detailed instructions. I foolishly followed one, and it cost me my brand new power steering pump. I followed your instructions to the letter 3 times back to back, to drain, flush, and then refill the systwm. Now my power steering works again, for the first time since June!! . Thank you so much!!

I also cut open the fog light "mesh" and plumbed an air intake hose which cools my new aftermarket PS cooler. Everything runs smoothly, and your post saved me a good $1,100!
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 Old 09-18-2012, 01:18 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by breakfstincluded View Post
Just did this according to above instructions mostly. Also used this for reference, although the layout is not identical.

-Below is a pic of where I drained for MS3, as show by the un-clamped hose, as you can see it won't leak until you unsheathe the foreskin even after un-clamping.

-Depending on how asian you are, you might be able to get away with just jacking up the opposite side to drain.

-Used quite a bit of tinfoil to cover everything, but there wasn't a big splash, just isolate the hose and you'll be fine.

-For some reason I also decided to pour in a bottle of Valvoline Dexron Synthetic to flush, before I filled with 2.1 bottles of the above mentioned Royal Purple.

-Drained fluid stank so bad it made me gag like when I saw Hedwig for the first time, but also like that transgressive musical, I got used to it.

-Feels good man, can't notice much, but improvement is apparent, smoother, perhaps quieter lol. When I stick my dick in the reservoir it doesen't smell bad anymore when I perform autofellatio.
The smell is horrible...but glad you got great results as well!

Originally Posted by Thapianoman4 View Post
You, sir, are a life saver!!! I've seen a couple other threads on this, but they had different step-by-steps and less detailed instructions. I foolishly followed one, and it cost me my brand new power steering pump. I followed your instructions to the letter 3 times back to back, to drain, flush, and then refill the systwm. Now my power steering works again, for the first time since June!! . Thank you so much!!

I also cut open the fog light "mesh" and plumbed an air intake hose which cools my new aftermarket PS cooler. Everything runs smoothly, and your post saved me a good $1,100!
I am very glad this helped you out. I try to be as detailed as possible to help anyone from noob to gearhead, although they would never admit it helped them
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 Old 11-15-2012, 07:04 AM   #15
 
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Subbed for near future ps flush. Thanks for the great info!
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 Old 05-18-2015, 04:18 PM   #16
 
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Default Flushing problems

Hi to all.
I tried the posted power steering flushing procedure but I ended up with a popped open power steering line twice. Needless to say my garage floor is now red! Does someone know why this happened?
Thank you.
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 Old 11-07-2019, 01:48 PM   #17
 
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Thanks for these great instructions.

One question. The Speed3 manual says Dexron III ATF but Mobil 1 Syntheric ATF lists as being compatible with.

General Motors DEXRONŽ IIIH
General Motors DEXRONŽ IIIG
General Motors DEXRONŽ IIE
General Motors DEXRONŽ IIIH
General Motors DEXRONŽ IIIG
General Motors DEXRONŽ IIE
General Motors DEXRONŽ IID
General Motors DEXRONŽ II
General Motors DEXRONŽ

Are these equivalent to and compatible with Dexron III?
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 Old 11-07-2019, 03:39 PM   #18
 
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Get dexron VI, it is backwards compatible and fully synthetic.
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 Old 11-07-2019, 03:48 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by Db09ms3 View Post
Get dexron VI, it is backwards compatible and fully synthetic.
Ya I read that here: https://www.reference.com/vehicles/d...5ce7a07986d45e

This stuff is def correct. Meant for DEXRON III applications. Available at Advance Auto.

Valvoline DEXRONŽ-VI ATF Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid

Valvoline DEXRONŽ-VI ATF is a full-synthetic transmission fluid formulated with advanced additive technology to meet and exceed the requirements of the General Motors' DEXRONŽ-VI specification. It is officially licensed and approved by GM and is fully back-serviceable and can be used wherever DEXRONŽ-II and/or DEXRONŽ-III are recommended. Recommended for use in the following applications: DEXRONŽ-VI, DEXRONŽ-III, DEXRONŽ-II, and Allison C-4.


Last edited by Lex2007; 11-07-2019 at 06:16 PM.
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I followed BREAKFASTINCLUDED's example for my 2007 Gen1 Speed3. I used two quarts of Valvoline. Wuz the first flush at 142k miles.







You should put hose sections onto both the rubber and metal ends of the low pressure line that you open up, so as not to spray fluid everywhere as you turn the steering wheel back and forth.

Here you can see how I put hoses onto both ends. One hose, 5/8ths was way too large and fluid dribbled back down out of the unclamped end.



3/8ths hose with a 3/8ths barb worked well.


Last edited by Lex2007; 11-10-2019 at 03:33 PM.
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MS6 Fluid Notes & DIY Pictures - Mazda Nation This thread Refback 08-16-2014 05:54 AM
MS6 Fluids and DIY Pictures | SpeedForums.org This thread Refback 07-02-2012 11:58 AM

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