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 Old 08-08-2014, 11:06 PM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by BigjohnB20 View Post
God damn that thing is buried in there huh? Ive been fighting for like an hour and still haven't even got that yellow clip off. The "clips" on mine are facing the block and impossible to get to.

Noob questions... If I detach one of the coolant lines from the throttle body is coolant going to spill everywhere? Do I need something to clamp the line? Then once I put it back together do I need to do anything to purge the air from the system?
I had almost zero drip from the TB coolant lines when doing my bypass. That yellow clip facing the block would be a slut - I'd imagine you've already tried two small flat head screwdrivers to push the little claws back? It may help to pull that 8mm bolt out of the hardline and the two 10mm bolts out of the end of the fuel rail - be ready for a few ounces of gas to come out - but it should give you a little flexibility to maybe get on that clip. It gives you enough clearance to easily use a regular 17mm wrench instead of the HDMF adapter outlined in the thread.



If you pull that rail out of your way (gently!) you should be able to get that half a rotation you need on the PRV to expose the correct side of the yellow clip.
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 Old 08-09-2014, 07:11 PM   #42
 
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Thanks @JgamB; I finally managed to get the clip off last night. What a pain in my ass. I ended up using two pieces of metal clothes hanger that I cut and bent a hook on the end. I was like a damn arthroscopic surgeon blindly fishing the hooks around the back of the clip. Some how by the grace of god I hooked them both at the same time and was able to pop the clip off. The 7 beers I had before/during this process really helped things along...

I had to call it a night after that though. just got back from harbor freight with the tools from OP. Hopefully these will work for me. I guess plan B will be what you outlined and taking that hardline off to use a regular wrench. Thanks again
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 Old 08-13-2014, 08:46 PM   #43
 
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Nice write up thanks gonna do this soon
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 Old 08-14-2014, 12:12 AM   #44
 
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 Old 10-02-2014, 04:41 PM   #45
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In case anyone's interested, I just had my RV fail, and I'm in the process of installing a new one. When I called to order one, it turns out that there are only 11 in stock, in the country!

Anyway, so far, I've stripped everything out except the valve (I'm trying to decide if buying the adapter is a worthwhile proposition.).
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 Old 10-02-2014, 04:42 PM   #46
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
In case anyone's interested, I just had my RV fail, and I'm in the process of installing a new one. When I called to order one, it turns out that there are only 11 in stock, in the country!

Anyway, so far, I've stripped everything out except the valve (I'm trying to decide if buying the adapter is a worthwhile proposition.).
I managed to change mine with a box wrench.
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 Old 10-02-2014, 04:59 PM   #47
 
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I'm going to swap one of these out on a friends speed 6 tonight. I don't have the adapter in OP but I do have a ton of tools that should work. I'll post my findings.
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 Old 10-02-2014, 05:05 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Gr8Speed View Post
I managed to change mine with a box wrench.
I decided to quit being a pussy and pull the hard line off the rail so that I could fit a box wrench in there. Once I did, it came out, easy-peasy.

In any case, I hope someone starts carrying more of these things for a lower price.

Also, you're supposed to be able to blow through either end of the valve and have air pass through...right...?
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 Old 10-02-2014, 06:09 PM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
Also, you're supposed to be able to blow through either end of the valve and have air pass through...right...?
You're joking right? When that happens its definitely dead
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 Old 10-02-2014, 06:41 PM   #50
 
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+1 ^


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 Old 10-02-2014, 08:00 PM   #51
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OF COURSE I WAS JOKING!!!! Jeeez guys.
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 Old 10-03-2014, 01:12 PM   #52
 
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Total pain in the ass but I did this last night on a Speed6 without removing the fuel rail guard, egr line, or coolant lines. I used a Craftsman Max Axess 17mm socket and ratchet. The socket fit perfectly over the relief valve but it was a tad too short to grab the ratchet. I used a flat head screw driver to push the socket just enough to grab the ratchet while remaining on the relief valve nut. After that I was able to fully loosen and tighten.
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 Old 10-06-2014, 09:56 AM   #53
 
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Originally Posted by [R]usty View Post
Total pain in the ass but I did this last night on a Speed6 without removing the fuel rail guard, egr line, or coolant lines. I used a Craftsman Max Axess 17mm socket and ratchet. The socket fit perfectly over the relief valve but it was a tad too short to grab the ratchet. I used a flat head screw driver to push the socket just enough to grab the ratchet while remaining on the relief valve nut. After that I was able to fully loosen and tighten.
I knew there had to be a good use for those. I rarely ever reach for the max access stuff but this is definitely a smart place to save some time. Good tip, sir Rusty.
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 Old 10-06-2014, 10:53 AM   #54
 
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Originally Posted by JgamB View Post
I knew there had to be a good use for those. I rarely ever reach for the max access stuff but this is definitely a smart place to save some time. Good tip, sir Rusty.
haha funny you say that, I never use these either. They've been sitting in my tool box pretty much untouched since I bought them. I'm finally realizing how useful they can be. I used them to swap my suspension this weekend, made things a lot easier.
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 Old 08-01-2016, 09:18 AM   #55
 
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What size crush washer fits on the RV? And, where did you source it?

Thanks in advance.
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 Old 03-30-2017, 05:30 PM   #56
 
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Necro, to add how I did it:

Pull FMIC (cold pipe) coupler off the throttle body
Remove air filter
Removed hard line guard
Pull fuel line off (yellow clip... not hard line.)
Used 17mm offset wrench

Accessed the PRV by moving the SSP's position and went under the radiator hose. It's super easy. No special tools. It's all about the angle of the dangle.
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 Old 08-03-2017, 04:48 AM   #57
 
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Originally Posted by superskaterxes View Post
you cant buy the RV by itself, you have to buy a whole new rail.
Why did you replace this? What symptoms did you have? Sorry to bring back old thread

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 Old 08-03-2017, 08:35 AM   #58
 
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Originally Posted by Bryce99 View Post
Why did you replace this? What symptoms did you have? Sorry to bring back old thread

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My HPFP started making a rattling noise, fuel pressure was very low are idle and got a P0303 code.

https://youtu.be/Gc_QfQxqBzM
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 Old 08-03-2017, 08:44 AM   #59
 
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Originally Posted by Atticaz View Post
My HPFP started making a rattling noise, fuel pressure was very low are idle and got a P0303 code.

https://youtu.be/Gc_QfQxqBzM
Dude mine is doing the exact same thing... I replaced the hpfp and it didn't fix so now o bought a relief valve hope it does it

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 Old 08-03-2017, 09:03 AM   #60
 
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Originally Posted by Atticaz View Post
My HPFP started making a rattling noise, fuel pressure was very low are idle and got a P0303 code.

https://youtu.be/Gc_QfQxqBzM
Why the misfire code though? I have a code for multiple cylinder misfires

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 Old 08-03-2017, 05:21 PM   #61
 
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Originally Posted by Bryce99 View Post
Why the misfire code though? I have a code for multiple cylinder misfires

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That I am not sure of. Maybe since there is an issue with the fuel delivery there is either too much or too little being delivered? *Shrug*
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 Old 08-21-2018, 08:09 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by jmen73 View Post
What size crush washer fits on the RV? And, where did you source it?

Thanks in advance.
I've installed a new RV and it leaks between the RV and the fuel rail, apparently I've lost the crush washer, any info available on finding a replacement?
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• View topic - Mazda 3 MPS relief valve This thread Refback 04-19-2012 07:30 AM

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