HOW-TO: shaft pivot seal replaced

[jrzy ms6]

ok so i noticed trans fluid leaking and traced it to the rubber boot on the pressure plate on top of the trans. found some helpful threads to help pinpoint it but no "how to's" so hope this helps cause the dealer charges BUKU dollars to fix (yea what else is new). i'll start by saying that i consider myself a noob under the hood but i can figure stuff out. so feel free to chime in cause i cant name all the parts involved or dont know if there is a easier way to do it. all i can tell u is that this is what i did, everything works and best of all no more leaky leaks.

the seal from the dealer was only $6.50
part # A60117131

1. remove the air box for the intake (i'm all stock) and the battery, battery tray.
under this rubber boot is the seal. will be fluid all over this area
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339612652

2. disconnect the clutch cables. i used needle nose pliers to pop off the top one the other is connected to a bracket on the plate that has to come off anyway so i just pulled out the two 12mm bolts holding it
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359

3. remove the motor mount. before you do this you must set the front on jack stands and support the engine from under with a floor jack to release tension on the motor mount bolt.
(i'm on h&r's so i had to jack it from the side and slide a old rim with a box on top under the trans to support it.... had no jack stands).
at that point remove the bolt going thru the chassis(on top in pic) 18 mm i think and be sure not to lose the nut on the back side of the mount. then the other bolt going into the trans
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359

2nd bolt going into trans, its under the clutch cables
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359

3rd bolt going into trans, and the nut from the chassis bolt that u already dropped into the engine bay. mount should come right off now
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359
4.pull the rest of the 12mm bolts out of the plate and break the seal holding it to the trans (i used a big flat head screw driver)

5. ok i'm not 100% sure this bolt had to come out but the shaft was fighting me to come out and seemed to come alot easier when i did. its located on the front of the trans and is lined up perfectly with the shaft. once it was out i was able to wiggle the shaft out (no homo)
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359

shaft out
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359

6. remove cotter pin, a punch is perfect if you have one. i dont so i used a
t25 torx driver and a hammer to tap it out.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359

7. once the pin is out slide it off. i think it only goes back on one way but be sur to keep an eye on how it came apart


once thats off the plate slides right off, the seal is right on top.
put on the new one and get her back together
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359


Edit: some have popped off the shifter cable and had a small clip left on the plate. be careful not to lose it and set it aside for reassemble.
Also clean off the old sealant from the plate and trans and reseal with gasket sealant.

[TiGraySpeed6]

Nice, this was needed on MSF
Raider, can add brownies write-up to the How-To MS6 list, snd probably to the MS3 list too?

[Raider]

If OP goes VIP, I got MSF Bucks...

[jrzy ms6]

Originally Posted by Raider If OP goes VIP, I got MSF Bucks...

will do, just give me a bit to get some finances in order lol...

[Raider]

PM me when you do. I'll make you rich!

[superskaterxes]

jmhinkle

[jmhinkle]

Thank you. We just recently found an online diagram from Jim Ellis Mazda and were going to attempt this on my tranny I swapped out 2 weeks ago. We have 2 cars with this problem we need to work on.

djuosnteisn
spd6guy90

[MSFer87]

Just noticed this on my car like 2 day ago. Thanks for the write up guy.

[TiGraySpeed6]

Parts diagram & part number for seal matching first post

[jmhinkle]

Wait, did you not actually replace the seal? The boot isn't the problem. There is a seal under the boot that needs replaced. Let me get the link up here in a second.

He beat me to it, 17-131 is the seal that leaks with time. The boot isn't an actual seal just a dust cover. Official part number is A60117131 for the actual seal.

[jrzy ms6]

Yea the seal is under the boot. When tracing the leak it will lead you to the boot. Fluid pooled up on the plate also.

[Mattsy]

Good stuff, definitely doing this soon on my car, been leaking for a while.

[darkcherry]

Been meaning to say thank you. Bought the seal a few weeks ago from mazda dealer. Going to do very soon.

[darkcherry]

Here are some more pics to add to your how to if you want. Thank you. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru....php?p=1497274

[Mattsy]

Listen up boys and girls... do the seal before it really pukes all over the place.. like mine did. Attached some photos of the mess (and in case anybody wants another perspective).

[TiGraySpeed6]

Nice pics! Some odd looking sludge stuff in the last one.

Wish you'd donate, these pics are worth reputation points!!

[Mattsy]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 Nice pics! Some odd looking sludge stuff in the last one. Wish you'd donate, these pics are worth reputation points!!

A little grime dropped in as I was taking the shifter assembly out. Cleaned what I could and I will do a fluid change next week to hopefully get it all out. Oh well.

Damn I did donate some time ago, I guess you need to do it every year. Will get on that soon.

[leejustin80]

Originally Posted by jrzy ms6 ok so i noticed trans fluid leaking and traced it to the rubber boot on the pressure plate on top of the trans. found some helpful threads to help pinpoint it but no "how to's" so hope this helps cause the dealer charges BUKU dollars to fix (yea what else is new). i'll start by saying that i consider myself a noob under the hood but i can figure stuff out. so feel free to chime in cause i cant name all the parts involved or dont know if there is a easier way to do it. all i can tell u is that this is what i did, everything works and best of all no more leaky leaks. the seal from the dealer was only $6.50 part # A60117131 1. remove the air box for the intake (i'm all stock) and the battery, battery tray. under this rubber boot is the seal. will be fluid all over this area http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339612652 2. disconnect the clutch cables. i used needle nose pliers to pop off the top one the other is connected to a bracket on the plate that has to come off anyway so i just pulled out the two 12mm bolts holding it http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359 3. remove the motor mount. before you do this you must set the front on jack stands and support the engine from under with a floor jack to release tension on the motor mount bolt. (i'm on h&r's so i had to jack it from the side and slide a old rim with a box on top under the trans to support it.... had no jack stands). at that point remove the bolt going thru the chassis(on top in pic) 18 mm i think and be sure not to lose the nut on the back side of the mount. then the other bolt going into the trans http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359 2nd bolt going into trans, its under the clutch cables http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359 3rd bolt going into trans, and the nut from the chassis bolt that u already dropped into the engine bay. mount should come right off now http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359 4.pull the rest of the 12mm bolts out of the plate and break the seal holding it to the trans (i used a big flat head screw driver) 5. ok i'm not 100% sure this bolt had to come out but the shaft was fighting me to come out and seemed to come alot easier when i did. its located on the front of the trans and is lined up perfectly with the shaft. once it was out i was able to wiggle the shaft out (no homo) http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359 shaft out http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359 6. remove cotter pin, a punch is perfect if you have one. i dont so i used a t25 torx driver and a hammer to tap it out. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359 7. once the pin is out slide it off. i think it only goes back on one way but be sur to keep an eye on how it came apart once thats off the plate slides right off, the seal is right on top. put on the new one and get her back together http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1339613359

this is great, been looking for a write up for quite some time now...!

[paveltol]

in case there is no OEM Mazda seal (p/n A601-17-131, USD 6.15) you can also use the same Toyota seal (p/n 9031118013, USD 5.34). It fits perfectly and cheaper that OEM Mazda part))

[jrzy ms6]

Originally Posted by paveltol in case there is no OEM Mazda seal (p/n A601-17-131, USD 6.15) you can also use the same Toyota seal (p/n 9031118013, USD 5.34). It fits perfectly and cheaper that OEM Mazda part))

Nice, always a good thing to shave a few bucks off....

[89T]

Ohhh hells yea, i was wondering what part was leaking right there exactly, gonna go get the parts and do this ASAP! Thanks for the write up man!

[Anubis450]

Thank you man, I unfortunately get to do this install today, as I just noticed I have the same issue!And of course the dealership wanted to charge me 9 hours of labor!

[Gru_Nuts]

So that orange seal, does that need to be replaced as well?

[BigjohnB20]

Hmmm. Noticed quite a bit more grimy/leakage crap around this area than usual while checking on something else the other day. Guess it looks like this should be addressed sooner rather than later. I know if I don't get to it before winter is isnlt getting done until next April.

Thanks for the write up(s). Never would have thought to attempt to tackle this myself without it.

[jrzy ms6]

Originally Posted by Gru_Nuts So that orange seal, does that need to be replaced as well?

I used basic automotive silicone to seal it (thats all I had). Holding up fine but I think gasket sealant from a parts store would work just as good. just be carful not to use too much. When you bolt the plate back on it squeezes out the sides. dont think its good to have it doing that on the inside.

[Gru_Nuts]

Originally Posted by jrzy ms6 I used basic automotive silicone to seal it (thats all I had). Holding up fine but I think gasket sealant from a parts store would work just as good. just be carful not to use too much. When you bolt the plate back on it squeezes out the sides. dont think its good to have it doing that on the inside.

Yeah thats what I used to after pulling it off and looking at it. Great write up by the way. Job was pretty easy took me and a buddy 3 hours (2 hours of work, 1 hour of beer drinking) Still don't know if it fixed it yet, but should find out in a couple of days.

[dynamix]

great write-up and just changed my fluids out and noticed my seal was bad. going to get this ordered asap and changed out.

[akwayne54]

Originally Posted by Mattsy Listen up boys and girls... do the seal before it really pukes all over the place.. like mine did. Attached some photos of the mess (and in case anybody wants another perspective).

When yours puked did it leave a large amount of fluid on the shield under the car? I came out to a pool of fluid under my 6 and i can't figure out where it came from. I have the fluid around the shifter pivot so I'm guessing thats what caused it.

[Mattsy]

Originally Posted by akwayne54 When yours puked did it leave a large amount of fluid on the shield under the car? I came out to a pool of fluid under my 6 and i can't figure out where it came from. I have the fluid around the shifter pivot so I'm guessing thats what caused it.

Yep.

[Guthrie]

Guys, you probably had a good look at the whole assembly while it was out. Which parts do you think are likely to casue this:

"Mazda's do have some problems with the "gates" for lack of a better word.. as you pull the shifter down to go into a gear two things occur, a gate goes down and another gate moves left to right when switching from 2-3 4-5 or the other way around... however, when going straight down, the horizontal gate tends to get in the way of the vertical gate. It's directly on top of the transmission where this happens and the springs / gates tend to warp because of heat and obviously, the warmer the vehicle gets, the weaker the metal gets not allowing it to force it out of the way like it was cold."

[jmhinkle]

I think it's the forceful pressure from hard shifting wearing the seal is all. Not the largest or strongest seal I've seen.

[Guthrie]

Surely that seal cannot be responsible for this: "when going straight down, the horizontal gate tends to get in the way of the vertical gate."
Some of these parts physically moves these gates, don't they?

[jmhinkle]

That statement makes zero sense. Not sure what you are asking.

[Guthrie]

Which parts from the below diagram should be replaced to eliminate this: "the horizontal gate tends to get in the way of the vertical gate; ... the springs / gates tend to warp because of heat and obviously, the warmer the vehicle gets, the weaker the metal gets not allowing it to force it out of the way like it was cold"

[jmhinkle]

Originally Posted by Guthrie Guys, you probably had a good look at the whole assembly while it was out. Which parts do you think are likely to casue this: All this part here is pure babbling. I'm not sure who the original quote is from, but the translation to english makes no sense. I can't answer your question when it is based on this nonsensical diatribe. "Mazda's do have some problems with the "gates" for lack of a better word.. as you pull the shifter down to go into a gear two things occur, a gate goes down and another gate moves left to right when switching from 2-3 4-5 or the other way around... however, when going straight down, the horizontal gate tends to get in the way of the vertical gate. It's directly on top of the transmission where this happens and the springs / gates tend to warp because of heat and obviously, the warmer the vehicle gets, the weaker the metal gets not allowing it to force it out of the way like it was cold."

As I stated in my first answer to your original post with that strange quote, the wear comes from forceful shifting. The rod itself is taking the excessive pressure from people ripping through gears and/or using short shifters. That pressure plainly wears the seal when the rod is being tweaked with to much side loading and causes the leaking to start.

[Guthrie]

The quote is from here:
Need some help bad - Dealership replaced turbo and now not shifting right - Page 3 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum

These are the gates I assume:

[MattJackson86]

Thanks for the write up. Just found a puddle of transmission fluid under the car and traced it to the boot, it had popped off. Thought that would fix it but had no idea there was a seal that seems to go bad. Ill be using this to fix it correctly in the coming days. 93,000 miles btw.

Kinda bummed I have to remove the mount, just installed a JBR a month ago.

[speed_freak91]

You don't have to remove the mount completely. At least not on the speed 3. Not sure about the 6.

[dynamix]

thought i'd post about this and this is mainly on the speed6. You dont have to remove the mount completely. All i did was remove the bolt and loosen the nuts the hold the mount to the transmission. After that i was able to get a 12mm wrench on the last bolt holdin the shaft assembl to the transmission and wiggle it out. It took a lil bit of time but in the end it saved alot of time. I still used a jack underneath just for support. One thing i will say to do that is necessary is take a picture when you remove the cotter pin and take the shaft assembly apart. I didnt do this and it caused alot of frustration on my part. Also once you go back to puttin the shaft back it it will tak some time to wiggle it back into place. This was one the time consuming parts out of everything.

[vutpn]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 Parts diagram & part number for seal matching first post

on the blow out view
If you look at 17-530 that is the breather
If you look at 17-131 that is the seal we need to get to
I went to the dealership yesterday and it costs me $6.63 for the seal (no wonder this o-ring is a butt hole..Pain in the butt LOL) Labor costs me $650, so I plan to do it myself.

My MSP 6 is at 164,000 miles and running strong. However, this is the first time the trans. got leak.
Engine is doing fine and has no leak. One thing though at 6th gear during gas pedal is pressing at the speed range of 60-80mph, my car vibrates and makes humming noise, if gas pedal is released no noise or vibration.. if i shift to fifth gear during the same speed range nothing happen.

Why its only making humming noise and vibration at sixth gear within that range speed while gas pedal is pressing and not when i release the pedal? Any other gears are fine at any speed

I have everything changed out to see if those caused vibration and humming noise. changed wheel bearing, tires, wheels,fluids why only at six gear of the 60-80mph range?

By the way discounttires got me the run flat 225/40/18 michellin for only $136 with 55K miles warranty even when my tires got no air, I can't tell its flatted and able to run on it but not recommend LOL. If you get those make sure you look at it pressure often due to the car is not equipped with pressure monitors, well the side wall is so stiff when corner and I like it.
I got Continental ExtremeContact DWS( these tires are good too) with 50k warranty. by 30k on it threads are down to 3/32 and i get $72 subtracted out of my new michellin tires ON Each so I saved $288 on the total. I just want to share to you guys.



Any one is experiencing the same problem and has the solution to it?

FOUND OUT JUST LAST WEEK (FEB. 15 2013) ABOUT THE VIBRATION AT 6 GEAR AT 60-80 MPH RANGE.
3RD ENGINGE MOUNT BOOST LEAKED OIL IN IT CAUSE VIBRATION AT CERTAIN SPEED. SOLUTION IS AN AFTER MARKET 70 GRADE PASSENGER ENGINE MOUNT.