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 Old 06-01-2015, 06:43 AM   #41
 
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@phate; has a spare prop shaft. your location @rndmheroxx; is important as shipping it will be brutally expensive.
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 Old 08-19-2015, 08:54 AM   #42
 
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I just completed this on my own prop shaft. I used a dremel with cutoff disc to make quick work of the outer shield and the boot was pretty much shredded underneath. I used the recommended subaru boot, and it fit perfectly. Highly recommend getting a CV clamp tool to properly tension the bands.

I will look into maybe creating my own heat shield on the DP. Even a little aluminum would probably make a difference. I'll be reinstalling the prop shaft this weekend and I'll let you know how it holds up.
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 Old 12-04-2015, 12:14 PM   #43
 
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I tore my boot while removing the DP. I had raised and rocked the motor forward and didn't pay attention to the prop shaft at all. Bonehead mistake but now I need to fix it. has anyone came up with a better replacement part or any further issues with this Subie part?
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 Old 12-16-2015, 08:24 AM   #44
 
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Just called Advance Auto and they will have my boot in today
Beck/Arnley CV Joint Boot Kit 103-2824: Advance Auto Parts

IDK where to get the tool for these clamps today so may need to tighten clamps under car later once I order tool...
Is there enough slack for the bands to reach this tool:
Amazon.com: OTC 4623 CV Joint Banding Tool And Cutter: AutomotiveAmazon.com: OTC 4623 CV Joint Banding Tool And Cutter: Automotive
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 Old 12-16-2015, 09:59 AM   #45
 
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Im searching for this tool and find a post on some forum:


But could not find the tool online. Called and guy said it was pulled off the shelf by AZ yesterday.

So I can get boot today but I cant get the tool to tighten the clamps...
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 Old 12-16-2015, 11:09 AM   #46
 
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fuk it bought one for $15 as I already spent half my day looking for one and need to get some work done.
CV Joint Banding Tool and Cutter Dust Boot Clamp Installer with Cutter | eBay

I assume I can do from under car as the smaller one would have to be done under car anyways unless take whole propeller shaft off.

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 Old 12-23-2015, 04:55 PM   #47
 
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Grinding down this part on flange housing allows the boot to seat and have a lip preventing it from slipping off.

Got my band clamp tool on ebay for $15 shipped.
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 Old 03-16-2016, 03:59 PM   #48
 
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Any issues so far? I'm debating doing this on Saturday, but I have stock DP and the heat worries me. Maybe some header wrap on the pipe?

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 Old 03-28-2016, 08:44 AM   #49
 
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I have only driven the car 5 miles.
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 Old 03-28-2016, 08:48 AM   #50
 
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Well balls. Mine is shredded and I have the boot to redo it, but I'm brainstorming a heat shield/Containment can thingie to bolt around it using the prop shaft bolts.

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 Old 03-28-2016, 09:18 AM   #51
 
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IDK, I spend a lot of time lining up the DP to keep it as far away from the boot as I could as I welded a new flex pipe and new cat in. I dont see an easy way to make heat shield.
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 Old 04-06-2016, 08:14 AM   #52
 
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just wanted to check to see if any of you are still running the boot repair with success. Saw there were a few early failures of the strap.
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 Old 04-06-2016, 09:22 AM   #53
 
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IMO so long as you grind down the shaft on where the flange is like post 47 and use a band clamp tool the boot will not come off, however if heat is an issue than may need to figure out way to make heat shield. Maybe put a temp probe there do get it really hot than come to stop and see how bad temp gets. IDK what the boot is capable of withstanding.
OEM boot is still fine on my MS6 or I would probably see what temps get to down there. I replaced the boot on different MS6.
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 Old 04-08-2016, 07:38 AM   #54
 
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I have an idea on how to make a heat shield for the boot. I'm gonna try to work up some motivation to get it done. It would be much easier if I had a second shaft.

I'm basically just going to make a containment kind of like what Mazda already did, but it will have flanges to use the existing bolts. I plan on wrapping it in DEI as well. Worst case, the boot still eventually gives from heat, but at least it will be contained.

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 Old 04-08-2016, 04:22 PM   #55
 
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I just looked at mine and I'm about 8k into my install with a ceramic coated DP, so heat dissipation seems to be very helpful
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 Old 04-09-2016, 05:13 PM   #56
 
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Yea I have a wrapped catless dp so not too worried about heat, just want to make sure those that had internally booted shafts were having success with the external Subie boot.


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 Old 04-14-2016, 09:41 PM   #57
 
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Default MAZDASPEED 6 PROPELLER SHAFT CV BOOT

Damn it spoke too soon, did a 4th gear pull for a tune and my top band snapped off...doesn't look torn but I need to get under it to see what happened..
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Last edited by meelo88; 04-14-2016 at 10:12 PM.
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 Old 04-15-2016, 06:15 AM   #58
 
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Top band snapped off? Did you tighten with a band clamp tool?
You need to groove the flange end of the shaft so the strap has a place to seat and use band clamp tool as I posted above. I think the boot may get pulled off from a hard shift when the engine moves and rather than the boot doing what it is supposed to do it just slips off the flanged end.
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 Old 04-15-2016, 08:11 AM   #59
 
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Yeah i was an early adopter who did this back in 2014, I guess I've just gotten real lucky on the band since then, I'll have to notch it this time and use the took to tighten it
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 Old 04-15-2016, 08:23 AM   #60
 
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I sold the car that I did this on but hopefully you can prove whether it works or not after redoing it. I linked tool I bought above as I could not find any locally.
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 Old 04-15-2016, 05:56 PM   #61
 
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Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
I sold the car that I did this on but hopefully you can prove whether it works or not after redoing it. I linked tool I bought above as I could not find any locally.


Did you use a lathe to turn down that piece? Seems like it would suck to do it by hand.
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 Old 04-15-2016, 09:53 PM   #62
 
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Originally Posted by meelo88 View Post
Did you use a lathe to turn down that piece? Seems like it would suck to do it by hand.
No just a benchtop grinding wheel to take out that center section. Easy. Just try not to hit the outer lip so u dont round it off but a knick here or there dont matter. Just sand any Knicks smooth and u have a nice fit for the indent in boot.
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 Old 05-01-2016, 05:52 AM   #63
 
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Question, can the drive shaft be removed with out dropping the the subframe?

While putting things back together after replacing the clutch, I made a mistake reattaching the drive shaft to the Tcase, and the boot ripped..

I ordered a the replacement boot suggested on this thread. But yesterday I reinstalled the subframe back in the car, and I completely forgot to replace the boot before doing so.. So now I am I am trying to figure out if I have to drop the frame again or no.

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 Old 05-01-2016, 08:59 AM   #64
 
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Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
No just a benchtop grinding wheel to take out that center section. Easy. Just try not to hit the outer lip so u dont round it off but a knick here or there dont matter. Just sand any Knicks smooth and u have a nice fit for the indent in boot.
Okay awesome, had my shop at work turn down that section and used the clamp strap tool to put it back on, seems to be holding so far. I'll update as changes occur.

Originally Posted by f15ms6 View Post
Question, can the drive shaft be removed with out dropping the the subframe?

While putting things back together after replacing the clutch, I made a mistake reattaching the drive shaft to the Tcase, and the boot ripped..

I ordered a the replacement boot suggested on this thread. But yesterday I reinstalled the subframe back in the car, and I completely forgot to replace the boot before doing so.. So now I am I am trying to figure out if I have to drop the frame again or no.

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You can take out the shaft if you remove the middle sections of the shaft and the exhaust parts below it. I only took off the front of the shaft and the two middle sections and left the rear diff attached. But have not touched the sub frames.
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 Old 05-01-2016, 09:43 AM   #65
 
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Originally Posted by meelo88 View Post
Okay awesome, had my shop at work turn down that section and used the clamp strap tool to put it back on, seems to be holding so far. I'll update as changes occur.



You can take out the shaft if you remove the middle sections of the shaft and the exhaust parts below it. I only took off the front of the shaft and the two middle sections and left the rear diff attached. But have not touched the sub frames.
Thanks for the info, its great to know. The front section was exactly the part of the shaft I was planning to remove.

Now I need to order the tool since I dont have one..

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 Old 05-01-2016, 09:50 AM   #66
 
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Originally Posted by f15ms6 View Post
Thanks for the info, its great to know. The front section was exactly the part of the shaft I was planning to remove.

Now I need to order the tool since I dont have one..

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Yes the tool really helps get the band tight, but you should also consider grinding down the middle part as mentioned in this thread. Good luck!
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 Old 05-01-2016, 10:03 AM   #67
 
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Originally Posted by meelo88 View Post
Yes the tool really helps get the band tight, but you should also consider grinding down the middle part as mentioned in this thread. Good luck!
So if I grind it I dont need to get the the tool? Is this the section that needs to be grinded?

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 Old 05-01-2016, 10:06 AM   #68
 
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Originally Posted by f15ms6 View Post
So if I grind it I dont need to get the the tool? Is this the section that needs to be grinded?

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The section below the red arrow and the o-ring. No you need the band tool to make the band tight when attaching the boot. 2 separate things but necessary.
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 Old 05-01-2016, 10:31 AM   #69
 
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Originally Posted by meelo88 View Post
The section below the red arrow and the o-ring. No you need the band tool to make the band tight when attaching the boot. 2 separate things but necessary.
Got it just read through all the post and found it

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 Old 12-17-2016, 05:11 PM   #70
 
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After reviewing a few posts about fixing our cv joint on the propeller shaft I completed two. My first one I rolled the cv boot above the o-ring lip and used lock wire to secure the boot into place. It lasted about 120 miles and blew up around 88 miles per hour on the highway. Brought it back home and determined I had slid the boot up too far and hit a weak point on the boot. I then tore it all apart, used 1/2 of the supplied grease in the bag that was supplied with the cv boot and put it back together. I slid the boot just above the o-ring groove and used lock wire again for the front and back. I also realized that you should burp the boot before fully locking the new boot into place. After securing it all into place, I didn't want the boot to burn up so I wrapped it securely with some flexible heater vent tape made for exteriors. So far 2 weeks later it's still working.
One post I read about a cx-7 propeller shaft being able to be used, the one I pulled from a junk yard didn't work. Although I do like the cx-7 shaft set up better with separating the front, middle and rear sections of the propeller shaft.
Once I have my new propeller shaft installed I'll be able to work with my machinists on developing a more practical fix for our issue versus this band aid.
Will upload carrier bearing differences later between the speed6 and cx-7.
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 Old 12-17-2016, 05:34 PM   #71
 
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The only way to do the repair correctly is to follow the advice in the ops post. You need to grind a large enough channel for a proper seat and you MUST use the metal crimping tool. The tool is the only way you will get the metal band clamp tight enough. Its an inexpensive tool and well worth the money. I use it for radiator hoses as well. Between the heat and the rotational velocity of the shaft its well worth the investment to do the repair"by the book".
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 Old 12-17-2016, 06:31 PM   #72
 
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Will do once I have the new shaft installed. This was a band aid that impressed me, I did not expect it to last this long.
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 Old 04-22-2018, 11:02 AM   #73
 
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Has anyone tried a different boot? The Beck-Arnley one can't be the only one that will work, kinda sucks how Mazda doesn't offer a kit to fix this seeing that is a problem.
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 Old 04-23-2018, 06:37 AM   #74
 
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everyone I've seen do it uses that boot, any particular reason why you don't want to use the beck arnley one? Its cheap and a permanant fix when done correctly. The stock design is an internal boot, so even if mazda did have a fix it would require replacing the whole coupler, which most certainly would not be cheap. If you use the tool to proper crimp/tighten the band this repair is a very effective solution for not a lot of money.

FYI - You can use the toold for 'slide/ziptie' clamp style clamps, or you can use the pliers version for 'ear' clamp style(have humps that you squeeze together). I prefer the ziptie style as long as I have the room to use them. I use the ear styles in tighter locations like heater hoses. Don't use wire, use the metal zip ties that usually come with the boot.
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 Old 04-23-2018, 06:42 PM   #75
 
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Just wondering if anyone found a different one or something that could put up with heat better, I'm not opposed at all at running Beck-Arnely products.

Among rebuilding the engine I need to address this problem.
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 Old 04-23-2018, 09:36 PM   #76
 
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Permanent boot fix with a bonus?
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 Old 04-24-2018, 06:57 AM   #77
 
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lol the bonus is your piggy bank will be much easier to count with only a few pennies left in it.

Len - The beck boot holds up fine to the heat. Most people, including myself, wrap the DP anyways so heat shouldn't be an issue regardless.
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 Old 04-29-2018, 09:17 AM   #78
 
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two piece drive shaft would be the cat's ass but yeah, tapped out as it is with this freaking engine build.

not sure if I will wrap my DP, gonna test the waters with out it just to make more work for me later.
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To think... this is suppose to be my winter car... because,

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 Old 08-04-2019, 08:20 PM   #79
 
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Reviving an old thread and not even sure if any of the posters are still with their MS6's?

I had the rubber boot around this CV joint come apart and take out the O2 sensor wiring on a drive back from NY to Virginia. I suspect that the 'debris' wrapped around the prop shaft as it made the most God-awful sounds at 80mph.

Now, I've just gotten the car a month ago and haven't really crawled in and around the car, but having done so tonight to see what had happened, I noticed that my car has a rubber boot (partially trashed) over the joint, AND the soft metal cap is in place. There's no evidence of grease anywhere, so I'm a bit confused. Did a prior owner install the rubber boot?...or was the boot in place OEM?

Next question: the wire to the O2 sensor was chopped-off right at the sensor, and the wire remained in the car caught on the tubular crossmember. Where does the downstream O2 sensor plug into the harness?

BTW, I was an original owner of an '06 MS6. I turned the car back-in at the lease termination as the buy-back was well above the car's value. But I've regretted giving the car back for years and finally found this 70,000 mile/one-owner car that is in astonishing condition. I'm (admittedly) anal about my cars, and the prior-owner was equally caring. Couldn't be happier with my return to the fold.
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 Old 08-04-2019, 08:23 PM   #80
 
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It plugs in roughly under the water neck. As for the boot, that sounds like an owner install and already determined to be a shitty way to do it. They're all torn, we just send it. I may try a silicone reducer, but the only permanent fix is a driveshaft shop one piece shaft
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